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Mike_In_RI

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  1. Thanks guys for checking in. Yes, I will get going again on the whaleboat when the snow hit's. I'm up to my ears now in broken quad copter parts now so am looking forward to my winter hobby. Mike
  2. 'Sorry for my tardiness. I thought I could get the build done in the winter months but intentionally put more time into scale representation and got behind. But, it's quad-copter racing season now so I'm only working on the whaleboat during rainy days. Oars.... tubs... knot training, etc. ... I have not given up!!! Mike
  3. Well done, you should be very proud! Great attention to detail and it shows all the thought you have been put into it. Super presentation. Mike
  4. That's a lot of rope coils! +1 for your patience. Also thanks for your tip regarding the xken logs. I checked it out and it's very useful to me as you said regarding "small stuff" technique. Mike
  5. Thanks Buck, I just checked your Morgan whale boat build. The miniature parts are great. I especially like the brass screws for the mast tabernacle. I may have to "pirate" that one! Mike
  6. Thanks Steve, I appreciate the comments. These little parts are more suited to my eyesight when I was 16 . I'll check out Ken's logs ... thanks for the tip. Mike
  7. I've been a little outside my comfort zone this week practicing brass wire bending and solver soldering. I bought a forum suggested book by Ken Foran "Model Building with Brass" which helped me out on the basics and really got me going. However, for me, I need something a bit more practical i.e. handling small pieces, fixturing, etc. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. The bow and stern fixturing is complete. I've really gotten to like the 1/32" and 1/16" boxwood sheets I bought and am now using it on all small parts of those thicknesses. In this weeks work, I used it on the ore lock pads, centerboard case caps, cleats and lions tongue. Here is a shot of the loggerhead post. Per the build log, I made the cross section octagonal. But the plans call for a square post with beveled corners so I may re-do that. The loggerhead was turned in the lathe and made from maple scrap. There are 3 coats of cherry stain applied so far and I will put on a few more coats to get it a little darker. The three cleats are glued and pinned with ~ .020" steel pins. The rowlock pads will have simulated cast iron sockets using silver soldered strip brass and tubing. This shot is focused looking to the stern from the harpooners thwart. The inner hull painting should be finished soon while the rudder and its parts are next in the queue. As usual, any comments, corrections and questions are welcome. Mike
  8. Wow, lots of progress since my last visit. It sure is super looking. Mike
  9. In between brush coats of paint on the thwarts, I've been working on more small parts. Also, the bow chocks have been added. I assembled the cuddy boards while off the model in order to do a neater job on the compass box attachment. ... just making sure there is a little back rake in the mast. The compass box is make from 1/32" boxwood. I really like it for the small parts. The stem joinery not including the clumsy cleat and bow chocks are also boxwood. .... next comes the loggerhead and attachment of the cuddy boards. Mike
  10. Catching Up on Small Parts The whale boat uses some larger riveted fasteners that I decided to try to replicate with brass pins. The majority of these are used on the thwart knees and all of them will be painted over. After several trials, I settled on the version shown below. One can be made in just a few minutes.... dropping one really takes up time. The pin is held in a rotary tool and the head of the pin is first flattened down to it's widest diameter. Then the diameter is ground down against sandpaper to the scale width desired. In this case, slightly smaller than the width of a hull frame member. They are cut off and push fit into a suitably drilled hole but do not to go all the way through the hull. The foot brace is made from boxwood. At this point, it's just a push fit into the stern sheets and the thwart riser so I can remove the sheets easily. The brass bow roller is blackened and set just below the top of the cheek pieces. Note, the bow chocks are not installed yet. Also, there should be a shallow groove in the stem piece just behind the roller. ...back to applying sanding sealer to the thwarts, etc. Mike
  11. Thank you Doug. I appreciate the comments. Time to catch up on my build log today. Mike
  12. Hi Steve, The only maple that I have used so far was for the laminated bends for the hull frames and the thwart knees. So two pieces of 1/32" x 1/16" glued together after wet bending. The maple was far better than the basswood for that purpose. With that thickness, a 20 minute soak and working it a little with your fingers, it easily wraps a 3/8" diameter. It also holds an edge much better than basswood and doesn't fuzz up when wet bending. I read in the guide that holly also bends well. As you would expect, the maple does not shave/chisel as easily as the basswood. Mike
  13. Thwart Knee Fillers The build guide and plans differ a little in the curving of the knee filler pieces. The guide shows a wider curve ending at the wales while the plans show a tighter curve blending to an almost vertical section up to the wales. I chose to mimic the plans version using some 1/16" castello boxwood with the grain running parallel to the thwart. The boxwood is much more robust than the basswood especially at the point where it meets the thwart. The maple knee strips were bent separately in a jig then glued together approximating the shape of the filler pieces. The thwart pads are straightforward although the the photos of the Delano boats show that the padded knees are not as tapered toward the center line as the un-padded knees. Comments or questions always welcomed, Mike
  14. I'm a bit behind in the build log so it's catch-up day today. Per the build guide, thwart installation is next but I skipped over that to work on the peak cleats without the thwarts getting in the way. The build guide includes a sketch that represents the the shape of the cleat and of course the plans have a few different views. Sorry again: The site is still rotating my photos... Here is a photo of a cleat in the 1/2 scale boat at the museum. It helped a lot in understanding how to shape the part as simply as possible. This little piece has a nice curve on the inboard side which I'll call the "inboard curve". Once the hole is drill in the face, the shaping can be done in two steps: Creating a curve on the face and beveling an edge. Note: the bevel in this method does not match the bevel in first photo which seems in to be an error or just a just a long way to get it done. (or, more than likely, I just didn't get it ) This curve is important, if it has any flatness to it, it will project onto the inboard curve after the final bevel. Just one straight bevel is needed to go from the top of the hole to the bottom edge. Note the flat part on the right side of the inboard curve. It is due to a flat section on the face curve and is corrected with more rounding on the face curve. I tried to edit the photo in MS Paint but the font turned out too small. One done ..... Mike

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