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Mike_In_RI

NRG Member
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About Mike_In_RI

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lincoln, Rhode Island, USA
  • Interests
    Modeling, Electronics, Genealogy

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  1. Great Jean-Paul. Everything is coming together nicely... planking.. fashion piece... transom... well done. Mike
  2. Thank you again for the likes. 'Well appreciated. Most of the additions shown here since the last update are dry-fit. The fairing in the cabin is done. The floor boards in the cabin are made from individual cherry planks glued to a 1/64" plywood backing and is removable in one one piece at the moment. There is one thin layer of shellac on the planks to bring out the tone but it actually looks a little too new. I may dull that down a little somehow. The quarterdeck clamps are in place and the beams are dry-fit so I can still do some carpentry in the cabin. Save for a little more shaping work at the bow, the hull is fair. The deck beams are faired and a false deck of 1/64" piece of plywood is marked out and dry-fit in place. 3/64" boxwood for the deck planking from thewoodmansshed along with other sizes for the great cabin are on order. I put a little time into a practice section of covering board (port side). It went fairly well but I expect it will be a lot more challenging with the stem curvature. Comments, tips & corrections are always welcome. Mike
  3. The furled sail looks great Ken. Nicely offset against the black. Mike
  4. Time for an update. Thanks again guys for the input and comments. I must mention Randy's special behind the scenes incite in that this is my first scratch build and he has been a great help. Much of the work since the last update has been put toward removing wood rather than adding it. The forward bulkhead stanchions are just about to final size but still a little high until the cap rails go in. The forward deck is is about ready for the 1/32" false deck pending trimming in the bow stanchion curvature. Also, the open areas between the frames under the great cabin are now filled in with balsa. The trickiest part yet has been the stern deck beam. It's bowed up for the deck and back for the stern boards. It's also slanted back and in for the transom timbers and shaped underneath to allow for the port lights. The transom timbers are left long and temporarily braced. The sternboard is still a moveable template and the framing areas are left as open as possible while there is woodworking and painting to be done in the cabin areas. 'Sorry for the tilt in this photo.... a large wave no doubt. This shot shows the scale size of the raw cabin area. It's about 12' 3" long and 11' 3" wide narrowing back to 7' aft. The ladder leads forward in a decent. Once the tough-to-get-at work is done in the cabin area, the current plan is to fit he deck clamps and the final pair of futtock-ish frames just forward of the transom timbers. Mike
  5. Thanks Lou ... "lined up" ... you hit the nail on the head. This scale, which I love to work at, made it difficult to use the more traditional method of fashioning six transom frames by hand and have all the angled surfaces line up. So I'm reversing the method and installing the counter first. I repurposed a dial indicator to help with this issue as well as marking out of the frames. You can see on the (dummy) stern board a curved outline just above the stern light. Per the plans, the curve should be coincidental with the quarterdeck planking and follows along the sheer which makes the height of the counter a key reference. So, the counter too high or too low either subtracts space from the cabin/sternboard or raises the quarterdeck. The counter is sturdy now and with no stern board in the way, I can reach into the cabin area more easily. Greg, thank you for that. I had been thinking about putting the wale in early to firm up the hull. You may have just saved me a lot of time! This being my first scratch build, forward planning is my shortest short-coming. Re:Rigging... thanks again for the heads up. I have the the Hahn Hannah plans and see your point about the rigging. In this case I'm comparing it to some shots of William F. Wiseman's Hannah that I recently took at the Mystic Research & Collections building and see a difference. That being said, my current strong point regarding rigging is that I know how to make rope.🤔 In that this model will (I hope) feature the great cabin and have a partially open quarterdeck, I expect to have minimal rigging or maybe have the stubbed mast look... or... so I'm not sure yet. Thanks again for the help and the likes. Comments are always welcome. Mike
  6. Since the last update, all the cabin frames are now in place. At this smaller scale (1:48) they are only 1/8" x 1/8" and fairly fragile so multiple spacers have been added between all the frames. Also, this shot shows temporary bracing across the top of the frames to keep them from changing shape. The wedge shaped piece attached to the stern post will accept the lower hull planking as it rises to the counter. It may seem a bit backwards, but the counter was fashioned and installed next to establish the height of the lower edge of the stern board. Once the counter is installed, the dummy sternboard can be temporarily placed which allows fairing of the quarterdeck frames. For now, the stern board will not be permanently installed in order to allow more room to work inside the great cabin which will be viewable through a partially open quarterdeck. The counter is made up of two layers of planking. The outer layer is bass wood and will be painted. The inner layer is cherry. My current thinking is to use a combination of natural wood and white paint in the cabin area. The exterior fairing is about 75% complete. Currently, I'm thinning the frames from the inside of the cabin back to 1/8". With POB construction, there isn't much more room to be gained without weakening the walls. Time to give some thought to the cabin floor layout. Any comments or suggestions are welcome. Mike
  7. Agreed, 1:32 scale would look and build great. For the full model, it would be to big for me. The boss caught me measuring floor space in the dining room and gave me... "the look."
  8. Thank you Randy ... although you may have spoken too soon. Rookie mistake, I just realized I was feeding the frame into the sanding drum on the wrong side. It shot my frame across the shop! I just edited my post with a new photo.... don't tell anybody. 😆 Mike
  9. Thank you guys. Ken, I'm working through a version of your post #18. That is, getting the upper hull at the stern established. However, there is no room for central bulkheads back there because of an open cabin. Once I can firmly connect that last frame to the stern board with good alignment, I should be able to get the (very small) counter in and the rest can be shaped fillers. 🤞 In the meantime, some sanding to do on the inside of the cabin frames. I'll have rigidize these as well before working with them. The good news is that haven't changed their shape in the the last few weeks. edit here -- changed a photo -- The photos of your project have been a big help to me. Thanks again. Mike
  10. Thank you Lou & Windships . I appreciate the kind words, comments and the likes. I've been able to catch up a little. Using some left over 3/4" MDF, I put together a work table/alignment jig. This shot shows a station bulkhead that is also in line with the location of the foremast. That bulkhead has the usual lower slot for assembly to the backbone as well as an upper slot for the mast. That leaves only about 5/8" in the center holding it together. So, it is cross braced with 1/16" bass to strengthen it. The large block is cut to the level of waterline 3 and is used as a gauge to check the bulkhead heights/alignment. Finally... a little glue! Most of the bulkheads are in and stiffeners were place between them to get ready for sanding the deck and fairing the bulkheads. The curvature of the deck is just about done. Sanding the end grain of the basswood was torturous so I switched to my scary sharp (3/4") chisel which work great and.. no blood on the table! There was even a (lucky) secondary benefit in using the larger chisel in that I could bridge the 1/2" space between bulkheads to smooth the pitch angle from one to the next. The deck timbers are still oversized so I'll have to go back later & finish the top of the deck frames once the timbers are cut to shape. The deck height allows for a 1/32" false deck plus the plank thickness. The backbone and stem are fixed in place while the stern fixture is adjustable (in/out) while still holding the sternpost vertical. The fixture helps me visualize how to blend the last few frames into the outside stern board timbers. It's hard to see here but the stern board is rounded out about 5/32". Mike
  11. I have finally used a little glue... big step. This is my first scratch POB build and I really can appreciate now how much thinking and planning goes into a good POB kit. @Windships plans have trued out nicely and the monograph has a lot of detail for the build. Of course, I still have novice questions and @Windships has been a big help. The plans are published by the Nautical Research Journal and designed by Randle Biddle. They are available to NRG members for download. Most of the interim time spent since the last update has been working in the area between the last full aft frame and the stern board. The Great Cabin is a focus area so I would like to push the aft wall of the cabin back as far as possible without weakening the framing structure. I settled on using the sternpost to mount the last frame. The height of the sternpost will be set to accommodate a sill just below the two stern lights. The sternboard frames (set high in this photo) will straddle the sides of the sternpost. The keel is not attached yet so the final height of the post is not finalized. The stem requires a Scarf joint. Alaskan Yellow Cedar will be used for the keel and hull planks. As of this moment, I'm favoring painting the hull. The stem was roughed out with a band saw and finished up with a sanding drum in a drill press. This shot shows the lip for the position of the last frame. The rabbet in the keel and sternpost was cut in on a table saw. The stem rabbet was built up with 1/8" x 1/16" strip. This hull has a boxy shape to it so there is a minimal bearding line chiseled in at the stern. The paper stern board is an orthogonal projection from the body plan... my first since the days of bamboo slide rules.🥺 The plywood backbone forward of the quarterdeck is trimmed down to allow for a 1/32" false deck and 3/64" deck planking. Frame "J" will be the aft wall of the cabin. This shot shows the position of the stern lights. There are only two and are spread wide to comport with an 1801 watercolor of the schooner Raven, built at Salisbury Mass, 1786. The bulkheads are yet to be glued in. A few clothespins are the only thing holding things together for now. The counter is very small and just allows enough room for the rudder post. The frames are still loose and extra tall and wide for now with the red lines indicating the bottom of the cap rail. Please comment and/or correct any time, and thank you for the likes and encouragement. Mike
  12. Thank you gentlemen for the likes & comments. @Windships Yes, the bow will need some strength to handle the plank curves. And above the wales, I'm looking at cherry & castello so not quite as easy to bend as the bass and AYC. The station shapes aft of "D" are on hold until I settle on the floor (eye) level in the cabin and rework the slots in the backbone. The current slots (filled in now) were too deep and made a loose fit with the bulkhead slots. If the cabin floor comes up a bit, the bulkhead slot can be deeper and get a better grab. For the cabin area, regular (thick) POB framing is too thick to allow for maximum space. So for frame "I" aft, I'll need to work out a more traditional plank on frame layout. I've got David Antscherl's TFFM for help. Great books! The cabin floor sits just below WL2 and pitches up just a bit toward the stern leaving enough gluing area of the sternpost to the backbone. The floor level as shown seems to need more pitch for looking out the port. I'll probably raise that more toward being parallel with the quarterdeck. Shot of the stern with a temporary sternpost and keel. Shot of the Great Cabin floor at it's current level.
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