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Mike_In_RI

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  1. Thank you for compliment on the compass. I had to put a little extra time into it... (it's my avatar). That shot is from the New Bedford Whaling Museum and they have a few of them on display. I have no experience with sail work but I'm leaning toward furled sails with silk span. Just last night I was looking at online tips for that. The presentation of this whale boat, as you mentioned earlier, generally tends toward being over crowded so I'm considering a version that has the eye catching stuff in the boat while the more repetitive stuff is on display in the case somewhere. Possibly, unless I'm to itchy to get to the next build, I'll include a davit look that does not include ships bulwarks. My next build.... great question. There are a few general ideas. A plank on frame build that is slightly above my current skill level with little/no above deck work. Or, a ship cross section build i.e the Constitution. Or, based on the great look of your weathered items, I might dip my toe into a scratch build of a partial whale boat in a boat builder workshop setting. The last one being a big leap for me as my artistic skills are ... none.
  2. Thank you again for the encouragement. I'm +1 for getting in the practice and -3 for eyesight. Here is the final version of the lantern after using the "Brass Black". ... and the compass is now in the compass box. I hogged out the zinc compass that came with the kit in order to paint it and fit the rose. Now onto painting the oars...
  3. Your wooden harpoons & lances came out far better than my photo etched ones. I made them weeks ago and haven't bothered putting a finish on them. For me, I couldn't grip them firmly enough to shape them the way I wanted. I'm thinking about making a new set out of solid copper with a piano wire shaft. Again, the copper wire shaft is too soft, even after tempering, to hold firmly. I had not even considered wood. Whatever your wood is, I'm guessing box, seems to do the trick, well done. Great grapnel & bucket.
  4. Thank you PJG. I can see that a lot of the aesthetic decisions that I have been putting off are catching up with me. i.e as you mention the presentation choices. Re: The boat lantern. This small part was a real learning experience for me. Although it will be almost, if not, invisible, I needed to learn more about fine work with sheet metal, soldering, etc. So after three version of the lantern... very crooked, crooked and almost straight... I did get a satisfactory boat lantern finished. It even has a wick just to up the parts count. The frame is made from 2 small pieces of 1/4" square brass tubing supported by 4 brass pins. The pin heads are ground down to emulate the sample in the plans. The cage wire is .014" copper soldered horizontally on 3 sides to the brass pins and vertically to holes in the brass stock. It took the longest time to make an acceptable door. Center punching at that scale was troublesome. The solder joints are on the back side of the door to minimize removing the excess solder. I choose to make it an oil lantern rather than the candle version in the plans. By now, I can't wait to get back to wood and sawdust. Mike
  5. Well, that was a fast 3 year break from ship modeling! It's time to get back to the whaleboat project so all the sawdust creating tools are back on the bench. I began working on a lot of the smaller accessories of the whale boat. Most of that time was spent trying to develop some new skills i.e silver soldering for the cooperage and lances, etc. The lantern took three versions to get (almost) right just from learning how to drill those tiny holes. For me, the kit basswood is too thick for the buckets so I took a shot at building them with individual staves using 1/32" boxwood and a very sharp chisel. After the first one, the job became easier notwithstanding the drogue which took 3 different method to get right. The cut down copper fitting was used to maintain concentrically between the upper and lower inside diameters of the drogue. The cove molding piece is holding and controlling a drogue stave. The 3/4" chisel is sliding against an angled (12 degree) piece of pine to set the inside angle of the stave. The inside face of the stave has 2 pair of marks on it to set the taper along it's length. Below is the fixture used to plane down the stave edges with a small bevel at the joints. Hoops of .005" brass were sliced to 1/16" with a heavy old paper cutter. The joints were solder using silver solder and a temperature controlled soldering station mostly used for electronic projects. "Model Building with Brass" by Kenneth Foran is a great reference. The two line tubs and the drogue have staves that were not bent and were just sanded round. The remaining cooperage has staves that were steam bent with a floor steamer we got that has a little attachment for small areas. The boxwood bent easily and the joints were almost too flush as I like to see a small gap. Most of the completed small parts are not yet painted, stained or blackened.
  6. Great series of start up shots. The whale boat kit along with the build manual is a great choice. I am working on the same kit "anew" ... took three years off the build to work on two other hobbies. Shortly, I will begin to upload more log shots of work I've re-started over the last few weeks. In any case, I can appreciate how well you are doing especially using the weathering style. Are you airbrushing? Heads up. The laser cut cooperage wood is out of scale. Mike
  7. Great model, I will certainly check out you build. Very nice job. Just in case you need support documentation for the rat .... "A boy, a rat and a whaleship". This whaleboat is in the New Bedford Whaling Museum. You can make out the almost used up lance tales. Without knowing any better, it might be (or not) that the lance tip was tied to one of the thin tails in place and just yanked out when the lance was grabbed. I just noticed in Ronnberg's book, page 121, his model shows the tails with stopping knots. The photos in the build manual that came with my model are almost impossible to make out. They are copies of copies, etc...
  8. Re" Lance Tails". Please ignore if this has already been answered. From page 33 of the Ronnberg book (and build manual). ".... a bundle of rope yarns ".... These were called "lance tails" by Walter Channing in his plan of a beetle whaleboat; their name hints that the business end of the lances were tied down to the thigh board until needed during the lancing process. "
  9. Thanks guys for checking in. Yes, I will get going again on the whaleboat when the snow hit's. I'm up to my ears now in broken quad copter parts now so am looking forward to my winter hobby. Mike
  10. 'Sorry for my tardiness. I thought I could get the build done in the winter months but intentionally put more time into scale representation and got behind. But, it's quad-copter racing season now so I'm only working on the whaleboat during rainy days. Oars.... tubs... knot training, etc. ... I have not given up!!! Mike
  11. Well done, you should be very proud! Great attention to detail and it shows all the thought you have been put into it. Super presentation. Mike
  12. That's a lot of rope coils! +1 for your patience. Also thanks for your tip regarding the xken logs. I checked it out and it's very useful to me as you said regarding "small stuff" technique. Mike
  13. Thanks Buck, I just checked your Morgan whale boat build. The miniature parts are great. I especially like the brass screws for the mast tabernacle. I may have to "pirate" that one! Mike
  14. Thanks Steve, I appreciate the comments. These little parts are more suited to my eyesight when I was 16 . I'll check out Ken's logs ... thanks for the tip. Mike

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