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Mike_In_RI

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lincoln, Rhode Island, USA
  • Interests
    Modeling, Electronics, Genealogy

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  1. Looks like I don't need an an extra hardening step after an untwist/re-twist unless I intend to store the the thread.. which I don't intend at this point. In any case, I have some nice .045" right twist Mara rope with almost no unwinding tendency. Both these samples were heat treated. Up to now I only have 7 foot lengths made so I'll scale that up. Thanks for looking in, Mike
  2. Thank you Chris. I really appreciate you comment. The finish line is almost in site although I've taken a fork in the road in an attempt to make my own rope🙄. The first two tries with short lengths look OK for color and twist but I still need to pin down the right size and sort out a small unwinding issue. I'm using the Syren Rope rocket and it really is a lot of fun! Thanks again, Mike
  3. This try looks good as well but has a small tendency to unwind. It is made up of 3 strands of Mara 30 and right twisted. The thickness is ~ .056". My previous posts question is still in play... should I need to dampen/wax the left twisted 3 strand rope prior to the final right twist? Thank you in advance for any input, Mike
  4. SOLVED The photo below shows my first and only try at rope making. It's 7 feet long and .022" thick and was produced on the Syren Rope Rocket. I'm quite pleased with the way it looks as it's the right color for my project and has no tendency to unravel. However, I want to make sure I am not leaving out a step. My goal is to get ~ .040 to .045", "bright straw" color, right laid whale line. These are the steps I took: - Three threads of Mara 30 (right twist) unwound and rewound quite tightly with a left twist - I did NOT stretch, apply water or apply beeswax after this rewi
  5. Hi Jerry, welcome to the MSW site. I can't answer your question but just wanted to take a moment to thank you so much for your service. Best, Mike
  6. Thanks guys for the likes. I do really appreciate your input. Just a quick update before I begin rope making practice. The boat warp was pre-wound on a tongue depressor then lashed in place. It has the 45 inches of line as called for in the build manual but it looks just a little too hefty. I may trim it back a little. Also, the five paddles have been lashed to the thwart risers. They are painted grey to blend in with the ceiling planks. Time to try my hand a making whale line. Mike
  7. Hi Vladimir, thank you for visiting the page. I do appreciate your input and comments. I think this kit is a great one for putting in as much scale detail as one feels like. I've decided not to rush this one so I could pick up all the tips on this web site as I can before moving on... and there are plenty of tips to check out. So, this is a proud day for me. I finally pulled off a satisfactory "in place" eye splice using 4 strand .035" rope. Of course, tomorrow I will need an appointment with the eye doctor for a realignment of my eye balls! The eye splice is for the boat warp and
  8. Hi Mario, albeit late, I'm just checking out your launch build. Super detail and lots of time put into the small stuff. Very well done. I'm slowly accumulating a list of potential next builds and this one makes the list. 'Love the diorama. Mike
  9. Hi Mario, thank you very much for the encouragement. Just today I was looking at your very sharp and clean whaleboat. I really like your use of different woods as well. I have slowed down some in the last few weeks when I didn't get the look that I wanted from the .045" whale line. It just seems too pudgy to me as they sit on the harpoons. In any case I ordered a Rope Rocket from Syren and today ordered assorted threads for experimentation. I'm trying to get as much scale into the project as I can so I'll attempt to get the line a little thinner and a more "bright straw" color. I h
  10. Thank you for helping out. Yes, I will do some testing on small pieces of the .045" rope I have. Possibly with some lighting up with acrylics. I infer from the Ronnberg build manual To Build a Whaleboat that he was starting with a white or light linen provided by MSW back in the 80's then colored it to his liking. Mike
  11. For my whale boat project I would like to get a closer representation of the whale line. Currently, I am using .045" light brown Syren rope for the harpoon mounting which is fine for "lightly tarred". However, per the Ronnberg build manual, the whale line itself should be a "long fiber manila, not tarred... and .. a bright straw color". I also note that the build manual photos show a right lay of the whale line. Other than the Syren .045" rope, I see no other commercial sources of that size. Can line that is already light brown be died up to a brighter color? Bleached then dyed? A
  12. The grapnel was made from four pieces of AWG 14 copper, annealed and hammered to a roughly square cross section. They are hammered to provide flat mating surfaces for soldering. In retrospect, I could have left the lower hook sections round which would have made filing a little easier. The shank on all four pieces were filed at an an angle so the shank narrows toward the top. There are two longer pieces for the central core and two short pieces that are added to the sides of the core. Fluxed and torch soldered using tiny pieces of cut off Stay Brite solder.
  13. Although it has been a month since I've had a log update, I have been working steadily on my knot and splice tying shortcomings. So, I am now an owner of The Ashley Book of Knots and The Arts of the Sailor as well as a practice kit of three strand, right laid, synthetic rope. All in the effort to set up the harpoon and lance splices in the scale required in the plans. I have learned some sailor vernacular and really got into the weeds of tying essentially all the assorted variations of the eye splice... sticks, tucks, against the lay, with the lay, marlin splice, half tuck, Z, S,... whew!
  14. Hi Bruce, I like the tapering jig used with the sanding drum. 'Looking forward to your progress. Mike
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