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Captain Slog

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Everything posted by Captain Slog

  1. Thanks to all for the likes. Thanks for the kind words Richmond. I find it easier to do the rails first as they are pretty springy and having clear decks allows me to place bits and bobs on it to position the rail for progressively gluing. Unfortunately I'm working below the line as it is a behavioral thing...I just try and be mindful of the rest of the model 😀. Thanks Greg, your latest build is pretty special and looking sweet. Cheers Slog
  2. Hi all, A bit more progress, the rear deck fitted last time now has its hand rails and stairs fitted. Then is was on to the upper deck fitting the cabins, stair, bracing and columns ready for installing. The finished rear decks and structures with previously made compass platform and a couple of ready ammo boxes. A few shots of all progress to date Heading back to Melbourne tonight for who knows how long but looking forward I think I will head concentrate on the ships boat decks amidships which go over and cover all the previously installed skylights etc. Cheers Slog
  3. Thanks to all for the comments and likes, much appreciated. exactly, just need to practice, try out different techniques out and practice, practice practice... I did break open the box and peruse through the contents of the next build again... but sensibilities kicked in! With only a couple more days before heading off again I am spending the time working on the rear decks of Borodino. Cheers Slog
  4. Hi All, Back in Perth for a week and finished the Crusader off. Last time back I managed to prime all the under carriage components and wheel well doors and now finished them up with colour coats and the last of the wheel decals and a couple of No stand stencils on the doors. Got to say the landing gear and wheels on these birds are pretty spindly compared to Phantoms and Hornets etc. I forget about the resin wheel well door actuators to go with the resin wheel bay, which have a couple of arms to slot on to the doors. One of the brackets was broken off but found in the box and easily fixed with a drop of CA. Shown being trial fitted before painting and gluing. Lastly a few bits and pieces of photo etch in and around the cockpit and the previously made HUD finishes it off. It was gloss clear coated previously for the decals and this time wanted to finish it a satin but only had Tamiya Gloss and matt so tried mixing it 50:50 to see if that gives satin. Finished I did leave off a few little bits and pieces and had a big picture of weathering it in my head but ultimately bottled out as what I did wasn’t turning out how I envisaged and didn’t want to mess with it anymore. However the photos don’t really capture the weathering/staining I did do very well. It’s certainly not up to Plasmo or Scale-a-ton standards but considering it’s my first plastic build since my adolescent Airfix days I am pretty chuffed how it turned out. It was great fun and learned lots of lessons for the next one. Hope to get a few days on the Borodino before heading off again next weekend. Cheers Slog
  5. Very nice clean and neat build Craig, particularly like your rigging, very tidy. Cheers Slog
  6. Great work Richmond. Looks like you’re off to a good start. Cheers slog
  7. Hi All, Just a quick update. Below is the resin wheels and disc brakes and the kit front undercarriage all cleaned up. There is a supplied piece of PE to replace the kit A-Arm at the top but decided not to use it. Here is all the undercarriage parts and wheel well doors almost ready for prime. I still have to clean up the filler used for some small ejection pin marks. I will prime everything in 1500 surfacer. I also did the decals on the port side and came out not to bad. The problematic nose decal went down a lot better this time around as knew what to expect this time. Still a couple of touch ups needed. The nose decal is a different shape from the artwork so will need to extend the anti glare black from the canopy forward inline with the front of the red. I will need to also touch up with some red to meet the canopy black and will need to touch up with red on the underside where the decals meet but other than that pretty chuffed how it turned out. That’s the decals complete other than a couple on each wheel. Just a quick mock-up of the cockpit. The cockpit PE top trim can just be made out (not glued yet) and a couple of coloured PE side consoles attach to this. Still got bits and pieces to add to the seat also. The yellow ‘rubber’ seals are actually decals and went on pretty well to the front screen but the main canopy came in two halves and messed up slightly on the ‘practice’ side but know why and this side went on pretty good. Hopefully get some priming done before I head off again tomorrow night. Cheers Slog
  8. My limited understanding of the two is that the Set is a mild softener as you say ( even smells like vinegar) but the Sol is more aggressive for difficult surfaces. My experience is the Sol really softens the decal and it goes all wrinkly (leave well alone during this stage!) but when it dries it smooths back out and really sinks the decals into the panel lines and rivet details. I haven't noticed this pronounced conformity using Set only. I think the solvaset is more aggressive again? but still feeling my way! Thanks will have a look. Cheers Slog
  9. Great progress Craig, I really like the wing tape effect/shading brings the wing to life and the engine work is sweet. Wingnut Wing kits are absolutely gorgeous. I watch builds and reviews of them all the time. I really want the Felixstowe (red/white striped one) but too big and too expensive (even with their sale) for me at the moment but it is a lot of kit! Cheers Slog
  10. Thanks Richmond, I have seen Plasmo's bike build but think I will try dipping it in warmer water and then apply some Set and leave it a bit to soften before wrestling it into shape. I am going to use Ammo by Mig Panel Line Washes (got a dark gray for light gray subjects and a black) for the panel lines. I am not going for an overly weathered surface but will add some streaks and discolouration with oils as never tried that before. Thanks Craig, I had heard of solvaset but can't remember coming across it anywhere. Its funny but out of all the videos I've watched no one has mentioned the Micro Sol attacking the paint work that I can remember. Yeah I think clear coats are a real personal thing. Starting out I just went with Tamiya as readily available locally but always looking for alternatives. I actually hate spraying clears as I struggle to see where I have applied them and think I missed a bit then apply more and suddenly the area is swamped! I wasn't aware they did clear coats as well. Makes sense the whole system should be compatible so will keep and eye out for them. An other alternatively would be to try Tamiya decal solution as should work with their paints. I really like the Micro Sol as it really gets the decals down into the panel lines and rivet details etc. I thought Tamiya only had the one solution so may be milder than the Sol. Thanks Dennis, yeah the F-4 in my stash has literally hundreds of 'No Step' all over the place. Interestingly, for me, was one of the stencil data decals which I barely read even with the head magnifiers states that the Tyre Pressures for land operations is 230 PSI and for carrier Operations is 365 PSI! LOL Only got a few free hours today so will hopefully get a little more done. Cheers Slog
  11. Hi All, Some more progress. The other day I laid on a coat of gloss coat of Tamiya X-22 and I did the decals today on my ‘practice’ side. Bit hit or miss. The 2 issues I have is that although the Micro Set is fine the Micro Sol damages the paint. I had used it once before but thought it might be because I used it straight over Mr Hobby colour coat but it does the same with Tamiya clear. Will just need to be more careful when applying. The 2 area is the nose decal, this is such a complex area of different curves I couldn’t it get it to conform very well and continuously applying and removing and applying caused all sorts of tears and wrinkles which I will need to touch up with paint. I did slather the decal several times with Micro Sol and it did get somewhat better but still meh. My lack of decal experience certainly shows but hey got to start somewhere. The rest of them went on fine. Will go back over with Micro Sol another once or twice to get the larger ones to fully sink in to the panel lines a bit tighter. The decals are really nice and all the stencil data can actually be read. I will hopefully get the port side decals done the next day or so and then seal with gloss, do the panel lines and washes and finish with a mat or satin coat. But unlikely to get that far before heading off to Melbourne again. Cheers Slog
  12. Hi All, Continuing on with the rear decks I attached the perimeter strip, the cabin, mast section and hose reels to the underside of the deck. There were a couple of braces at the front to finish and attach and a deck extension piece to fit against the perimeter strip. Then another support panel which I think a catwalk joins against. The 0.5mm support columns were chemically blackened and glued into position. The deck fitted into position. I attached the handrail before gluing the deck assembly into place and the whole deck dropped into place with no issues. My little 10 year old point and shoot has finally given up the ghost but since I couldn’t be bothered getting out the DSLR I tried using the iphone camera and on the whole the photos are pretty good. Cheers Slog
  13. Thanks to everyone for the interest, comments and likes, much appreciated. Thanks for the link Richmond. Turns out Hasegawa 1st released this kit in 2003 so yeah it's getting a little long in the tooth compared to latest offering but despite it's age goes together perfectly and has no flash, sink marks or any other foibles. I haven't experienced any issues with the coloured PE etc the coating has a tendency to flake off when bending it! I also use normal PVA and have tried the crystal clear also with good results. I used it for the side consuls. It certainly has, there has never been so much choice in all genres and the aftermarket has gone insane with upgrades, detail sets, decals, the works. Thanks for your real world input. F-4's a personal favourite of mine I have a 1/48 F-4B in the stash which I will model as a bomb truck in VF-111 'Sundowners' the best markings ever...well maybe 2nd to the Jolly Rogers! One of my favourite photos is of a sundowner diving at about 45 degrees unloading it bombs! Thanks Vossie, on a youtube documentary there was a story where one was launched with the ends of the wings still retracted up in the storage position but he was able to eject all his stores circle round and land again! Saying that I am led to believe that the type had one of the highest loss rates ever for a military aircraft, an order of magnitude much higher than the next high loss aircraft. I managed to get a restock on levelling thinners yesterday so will get a gloss coat laid down and on to the fuselage decals. There aren't a great deal of stencil data to add, which I don't mind really as find it very therapeutic but will start to show a lot of colour and progress quickly with the larger decals which will be good. Being a Hasegawa kit as usual they don't supply any stores or weapons but they do pylons!? I have left them off as didn't feel empty pylons add much and especially left off the fuselage side mounted pylons as even with a sidewinder (if I had any aftermarket ones) they spoil the shape fuselage. I'll just pretend it's in transit! Thanks again to everyone for the interest and comments. Cheers Slog
  14. Hi All, I thought I may as well jump on the plastic aircraft modelling bandwagon and show my current progress on what I was working on earlier. I started this at the beginning of last year as a change from the card modelling thinking it would be relatively quick and at least get one completed build under my belt. As usual life got in the way and it stood still until now but back in Perth for the Easter break so hoping to make some progress on it. This is my first plastic kit since my early teens so getting on close to 4 decades since I tackled anything like it so bear that in mind. On to the kit; this is Eduard’s limited edition release of Hasegawa’s F-8 Crusader and no it is not pirated. Eduard take the best example of other manufacturers models and beef it up with aftermarket which I will cover below. This kit was released by Hasegawa and is quite old now but as mentioned probably the best example of this type in 1/48. A few observations about the kit. For a 1/48 scale aircraft I was surprised on how big it is in the flesh. As a kid it was always 1/72 Airfix and had never seen a 1/48 or 1/32 aircraft kit as they were well out of pocket money range. I was also surprised in the relatively low parts count for this kit at least. Although I have used photo etch in the past this is my first experience of pre-coloured PE and it just looks fantastic. There is also a small fret with normal brass PE for access panels and the cockpit. Eduard also include a number of Resin parts. This will also be my first time using resin and seeing it firsthand I have got to say the detail on the ejection seat is incredible. Also the resin set comes with resin “weighted” wheels, which gives the correct sag and side wall bulges. I think as a minimum to any aircraft build, aftermarket cockpit/seat and weighted wheels are a must. Eduard as usual for special editions and profi packs give decals for multiple schemes. The decals are by Cartograf, one of the premium decal companies who supply to many other kit manufacturers. There are five marking options and I have chosen the Death Angels flying out of Da Nang Air Base 1968 for no other reason than I like the markings best. I really like the concept of aftermarket accessories and detail sets for sharpening up models so also purchased the Eduard resin exhaust but on closer inspection it probably isn’t really necessary. I also got Eduards resin rear air intakes. Apart from having open intakes and some PE reinforcing panels won’t really add much. I also came across this miniscule turned brass pitot tube and just had to get it! Lastly I purchased the resin wing box and the resin wheel bays by Aires and again the cast resin detail is just stunning. I probably went overboard with the accessories for what is essentially my first plastic build and have stunning models built straight out of the box but I always jump in with both feet. Detail sets, photo etch etc really appeals to me, so be as well get experience of it now. On to the build! Starting with the cockpit there are a few bits of Eduard PE to fit such as rudder pedals, a floor plate and a couple of side panels. I found with the side panels that the spacing to clear the floor hump is overly large (not an issue) but that they also stick up past the side consoles by quite a bit and here was the first issue. I trial fitted the colour PE flush against the side plates and when fitted in to the fuselage halves the PE pushed the starboard side plate off. I made sure the PE consoles fitted into the fuselage ribs so guessed there wasn’t enough room. As can be seen in the photo below I left the Port one sticking up and trimmed the starboard one down to the console level. I did lose some detail on the side plate but doubt much will be visible when finally installed. The tub painted and the stick installed. To keep things simple I used the recommended paint call out from the instructions and this was MR Hobby, Hobby Colour H317 Gray (FS36231). I have just placed the PE consoles on to show the Port side butted against the sticking up side panel and the starboard side over the trimmed side panel. I wish I had just trimmed them both but I’ll get over it. The instrument panel was next and I enjoyed doing this. It was sprayed using Tamiya XF-Rubber Black and then the first piece of PE with the gauges was CA glued to the cleaned up plastic part. To attach the bezel PE I used Tamiya X-22 clear applied quite liberally and then pressed it home. The clear varnish filled in the space over the gauges nicely but I did go back and add a drop of Clear into each bezel. There is still the HUD and a number of tiny PE levers etc to do but that will be later once installed and the front canopy fitted to protect it. I was really looking forward to doing the seat to do some work with resin and decals. I believe it is a Martin Baker MK.7 series seat. I also discovered that the horse shoe shaped ‘head rest’ is in fact the parachute, which I thought was pretty cool. The resin plug was chopped off the base of the seat and flash removed to open up any spaces such as the ejector handle and some pipes round the back. I sprayed it up with XF-85 and the call out called for H80 Khaki Green which I started doing on the seat squab and the ‘head rest’ but found it quite dark. A look at some images on line showed different colours so used H58 Interior Green on the lumber pad to lighten it up a bit. First attempt at decals wasn’t too bad despite the small size which probably hides any issues. I used the obligatory Microscale Set and Sol. The only part I am not happy with so far is the dry brushing with Tamiya XF-16 Flat Aluminium, which is far too heavy. I even tried dry brushing neat thinners and then Rubber Black to try and reduce it but things were starting to go downhill so stopped before I wrecked it. I should have resprayed the black but already painted the greens and didn’t want to redo that (I have decided I dislike brush painting!) I had planned to dry brush lighter green on the edges of the upholstery but after the silver experience decide against it. There is still all the colour PE harnesses to add but will do that later. A couple of shots with everything dry fitted. There are the throttle and flap levers and a few other bits and pieces to go on but will wait until installed. I think I will also wait until the tub is installed before fitting the side console PE so nothing gets popped off during fitting. I thought I would have a bit of fun with the photo-etch HUD and made a little projector lense from clear sprue and painted it with Tamiya clear green. It took 3 attempts to fit the supplied acetate screen so got a bit a bit messed up LOL Next up will be fitting of all the replacement resin upgrades and I have shown the kit part for comparison. The main gear well is a straight drop in replacement and the difference in detail is staggering. There are still a few resin detail and wire parts included to fit as well. Despite the massive plug on the bottom there is enough space in the fuselage for it to drop straight in. I had to remove some flash from the holes where the undercarriage fit in to but that was it. The front wheel well would be the most difficult and will require hacking off the kit one from the intake duct and removing the large plug from the underside of the resin part as well as shaping the correct curves. I was undecided whether to use this or not. The wheel well alignment to the underside of the fuselage will prove tricky as it fits from the inside. As can be seen the resin part doesn’t really add much from the kit part so not a big loss. I will just use some of the resin details such as doors etc not shown but were supplied with the wheel well. The F-8 has a Variable Incidence Wing and the whole wing lifts up by approx 10 degrees at the front for take off and landings to provide extra low speed lift. There are so much nice parts in the resin wingbox from the distribution pipes, the insulated main line and the bundles of cables running down the sides. It’s a pity most of this will be hidden even with the wing in the raised position. The resin wing box has a 3mm plug on the underside which requires removing. I didn’t trust myself to cut the 3mm plug off the full length and width of the wing box with a razor saw and spent about 45 minutes slowly sanding it down on a large flat sanding block with quite an aggressive grit. After lots of sanding and trial fitting on each fuselage halve separately it slipped in. The only tweaking required was to gently sand the top of the front bulkhead to get to reduce the height of the top curve. Now that the fuselage halves were together it was time to sand the fuselage join seams and fill and sand the intake. Of course sanding removes some panel line and rivet details so was time to try redoing these. I mentioned previously my plastic modelling was limited to pre/early teens Airfix kits (decades ago) using tubes of poly cement and brush painting Humbrol enamels so had to investigate what’s what. For panel line scribers I settled on giving RB Productions Scribe-R a try as readily available, reasonably priced and I only found one video which sounded good to me. It is made from photo-etch stainless steel and had to be assembled by bending the scriber and slotting into the holder. Incidentally I have several different brands of knife handle (to take No.11 sized blades) but only one allowed the scriber to go deep enough in so the all four side could be gripped in the slots. It also comes with 2 spare scribes As this is all new to me, I have nothing to compare its performance against but must say it was easy to assemble and use and I enjoyed re-scribing with it! Next up was re-riveting…again all new to me. I would love a set of Rosie the Riveters but since I only had a rough idea of the size required it would quickly get expensive to find the right one plus availability. So again settled on RB Productions Rivet-R which is also photo etch stainless steel and was easy to cut out and assemble. The F-8 doesn’t have a great deal of panel lines and rivets to redo but shown below is my first attempt at re-scribing and re-riveting the underside of the exhaust. On the whole pretty happy how it turned out. One thing I noticed (which is not me or scriber related) is some of the panel lines don’t fully line up with each fuselage half but on other areas they do. The picture shows the last panel line meets perfectly but the forward 2 don’t and then the 4th one next to the tail hook recess meet again. Anyway rescribed and reriveted satisfactorily. Next up was fitting the resin rear air intakes. The clean-up of the resin was straightforward and the photo etch plate fitted perfectly to the resin. The fit of the assembly though isn’t the best with some daylight showing. On close inspection the rear heat panels aren’t a perfect cone with a bit of a depression near the rear. Just going to accept it as is though. The first real fit problem with the kit encountered so far is the fitting of the rear ventral strakes. As can be seen they only really touch at the front and rear and this is after a bit of shaping to improve the fit somewhat. I ran some Mr Hobby Mr White Putty R (quite a runny filler) into the join and then cleaned up by rubbing the joint with Levelling Thinner soaked cotton buds (Q-Tips) (Interesting fact, I think anyway, is that the first F-8’s didn’t have these strakes but were later installed to eliminate a tendency during catapult launches for the plane to spin out when it cleared the deck! There is a YouTube video showing this with the plane spinning past 90 degrees to the left immediately after leaving the deck.) On to the jet pipe / exhaust. As mentioned at the beginning I bought Eduards Brassin Jet Exhaust set (shown on the right of the photo) to replace the 2 kit supplied parts. The resin has nice detail. I really enjoy working with resin as it slices and pares so easily with a craft knife. After opening the packet of the Brassin set I discovered in the instructions that parts of the internal fuselage need to be removed for it to fit. A couple of tabs need trimming down which is fine but they also require removing the stubs which hold the polycaps for the stabilators! Apart from access I didn’t like that idea so after a bit of eyeballing the kit plastic jet pipe I reckoned I could just about fit the Brassin turbine and afterburner ring in to the back. If it didn’t work out I could fall back to the resin jet pipe. I attacked the plastic part with drills in a Dremil, round files, craft knife and sanding sticks and after what seemed like hours later the completed Brassin assembly JUST fits! For painting I really wanted to try AK Interactive metal lacquers but couldn’t get them locally and my usual on-line store would only send them by road so got some Vallejo acrylic metals instead. The instructions call for Dark Iron so used Vallejo’s steel and gave everything a coat. I came across a couple of images looking up the jet pipe of a F-8 and everything was coated in a matt brown ‘soot’ so tried to recreate the effect with Vallejo Burnt manifold but I just couldn’t get a fine enough spray and the colour in small doses didn’t stand out. I thinned down some Tamiya Red Brown and tried to spray the pattern as per the google photo. The effect isn’t quite how I imagined it but happy enough. I will probably put on some black panel line wash, which I forgot to do until I was looking at the photos. The main wing all glued up. I watched YouTube videos of actual F-8s taking off and landing to work out the droop for the slats and flaps etc. I have left off the inner flaps(?) off as these need some trimming to clear the fuselage. Also included is a bit of PE at the front which was supplied with the kit. A small tentative step towards painting with priming the main wing and elevators. I want to try black basing instead of panel line pre-shading so laid down a coat of Mr Hobby Finishing surfacer 1500. This is my first time using this and it went down beautifully. I really need better lighting when spraying as the coverage isn’t uniform (but should help with the effect! LOL) The same 1500 Finishing surfacer went down on the fuselage perfectly. This will definitely be my primer of choice for future builds. The one thing that is a little disappointing is on checking the box contents I found the main canopy had broken free from the sprue and has been scratched up a bit and there is also a strange line in the front canopy which may also be a scratch. The marks/scuffs don’t look so bad in the photo and I am hoping I can polish them out. I wasn’t sure if I should show the canopy as I decided to give this a go to remove some scuffs and scratches it had with rattling around freely in the box and came close to destroying it! I watched some YouTube videos on polishing canopies so went to work on it will various grades of sanding sticks and then used Tamiyas 3 progressive grades of polishing compounds. I wasn’t happy with it so went through the process again and this time decided to speed things up with a Dremel and felt polishing wheel I had instead of going out to get a mop wheel. I am sure you are all shaking your heads because as you will know the felt is far too hard and before I knew it I had burned the plastic and it had all burred up in several places! I set about sanding it again to see if I could remove the burrs/burns which required sanding down a fair bit in localised spots and tried to show the worst area of distortion in the photo. I couldn’t really capture it well but it is in the middle of the side and depending on the light disappears or is worse than the picture shows. I think I managed to dodge that bullet as it looks acceptable in my eyes from what could have been disastrous. Yet another hard lesson learned for this n00b! Then on to masking up both inside and out using the supplied masks which again first time using and liked how quick and easy they were to use. I just filled in the exposed sections with bits of Tamiya masking tape. The rear of the main canopy was reduced in thickness as per the instructions for installing in the raised position. The hinge points in the fuselage were also trimmed to allow the canopy to open. The finished canopy with the Eduard coloured photo etch internals. Quite happy with it. There are still yellow decal stripes though. Finally on to some painting and started to do the mottle coat on the underside of the stabilator. I believe black basing isn’t really a good option for the navy’s high visibilty paint scheme from this era but wanted to try it anyway. Finally! The current state of play. I had finished the wings and stabilators and applied the minimal decals and stencil data using the usual Microscale Set and Sol. I still need to apply gloss to the fuselage for all the decaling fun that entails. I will be applying only minimal weathering as I believe the 60’s High Visibility paint scheme was very durable but will apply various staining and panel line highlights etc. Cheers Slog
  15. Fantastic work Danny, well done! Seeing that is psyching me up to return to my artillery tractor...if it wasn't almost 3000kms away. looking forward to next project. Cheers Slog
  16. I got my photo etch port holes from GPM in Poland. I got 1.6, 1.8 and 2mm. There are other sizes. Cheers Slog
  17. Just catching up on your build Danny and great work as usual so far. Having built a 160 individual track links I can feel your pain 😃 I am guessing its because it has the 75mm Pak 40 gun to distinguish it from the other versions available from the same publisher. Cheers Slog
  18. Hi Richmond, Well done on finishing skinning the underwater hull; in my opinion you are past the worst part of card ship modelling and it turned out looking great! Far better than my previous 2 underwater hulls which were so bad I had to fill and paint! I look forward to seeing your next progress shots as from what I can tell from the download it builds into a very nice model. There shouldn't be any rules if building for yourself! I for one will do anything humanly possible to get something looking half decent enough to move to the next stage. Cheers Slog
  19. Thanks Richmond. I like doing these kinds of bits and pieces the most. The 1:200 figure is actually a WWII Kriegsmarine from North Star. I got these along time ago but think it was from BNA. They had 4 or so sets in both winter and summer outfits and one set even came with a Hitler which is always sold out. The sets have limited poses although I do believe they have new sets with more varied poses and different navies. I do like to include them to get an idea of scale and the figure works out to be 1800mm in real life. However saying that, the ladders do look a bit overscale, but the generic photo etc ladders had the same tread spacing. Cheers Slog
  20. Hi All, Thanks for the nice comments guys, I’ve got to say been really enjoying getting some modelling done after being away from it for a while. This is the last progress update as head off again tomorrow. Still working on all the bits and pieces needed for the stern decks installation. These are a couple of simple trunking, which I suspect are lifts for the smaller deck gun ammo and a couple of what I assume are ready ammo boxes. This is the lower mast section, which also have a couple of pulleys attached to them. There is some photo etch pulley wheels to replace the paper part. I also punched out some styrene spacer disks as the paper part 51d kept delaminating. I also cheated and used 4 sections of 1mm brass rod to replace the swivels 51b & 51c as again the strips delaminated trying to bend them into cylinders. The paper used in this kit does not like small tight bends. It was easier and quicker to chemically blacken the photo etch instead of painting. Finished lower mast section. The supplied mast part has such extra width I found it easier to just overlap and glue it as the lap join will virtually be invisible once installed on the deck with the other decks above. In fact this whole section of mast will virtually be hidden. Three sets of ladders one of which isn’t finished as still the handrails to do. I decided to go with the paper ones again. I didn’t punch the side holes out as when I tried in the past the whole section fell apart but decided to leave white to provide some relief. Likewise I didn’t paint the front of the tread. I might go back and paint all black...will see. I had to make the 0.2mm handrails from the templates and fixed them to the inside of the stringers instead of the outside as find they line up better with the deck handrails in this position. I reckon one more session would see me in a position to install the upper 2 stern decks. Oh well, next time. Cheers Slog
  21. Hi Richmond, thanks for dropping by. Looking forward to seeing some progress on your Mauritania log! The deck edges are covered with strips of black paper approx 1.5mm wide which are attached around the perimeter. These are fixed flush with the top of the decks and extend down past the deck underside by approx 1mm. I cut these strips out but didn't attach. Currently making all the brass wire support columns that hold up the overhangs of the decks as well as the braces and gussets. Still got sets of stairs and handrails, combing and mast sections as well as ready ammo boxes and service conduits to make before the decks can be installed proper to the hull. Cheers Slog
  22. Hi All, It was this time last year I last worked on Borodino and spent this Christmas Break getting back into it concentrating on the rear decks. Started with the railings again using individual PE stanchions and bending the 0.2mm rails to shape from the templates. Painted with NATO black as this is greyer than full black and matches the black paper printing of the kit and black water colour I use for touch up. On to the 3 rear cabins. These are pretty simple Parts layout Laser cut forms spaced apart with scrap balsa and card. Finished bottom cabin with side skylights, treated using my usual method for portholes. The 2 upper deck cabins I was looking forward to doing the Compass Platform as it is a nice little piece on its own right. Parts laid out ready for assembly. The handrail built up. This was more frustrating than the large deck railings. I decided to use some generic PE ladders rather than make up the paper ones for a change but still hand to make the handrail from 0.2mm wire. The centre support column has 2 ‘cones’ but I lost one so made one from styrene. I had 2mm styrene sheet so cut and shaped it from that. However when I was having a clean up I found the lost part on the floor and ended up using both paper parts. The finished compass platform. I didn’t turn out as well as I had hoped but still acceptable for me. Made a start in the little deck attachments and there are a couple of hose reels which are fixed to the underside of the deck. Parts laid out. The spokes are 0.2mm x 2mm. Starting assembly Finished hose reels I decided to do a mock up with the parts of the rear decks made so far. Nothing is glued and there is a lot more little bits and pieces to be made before I can start assembling. That’s about all. I have relocated to Melbourne for work but my family and modelling is still in Perth so little will be done on the odd times I get home so likely the next update will be in a years time LOL Cheers Slog
  23. Strip the insulation off a Cat5 (patch cable) or telephony cable and unwind. Everyone has these lying around and the wires are tiny
  24. The biggest joke is people can’t even post in the right thread

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Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
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