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lb0190

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About lb0190

  • Rank
    TMCNEI
  • Birthday 09/01/1953

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Florida, USA
  • Interests
    Golf, Target Shooting/Reloading, Model Ship Building & Digital Photo Recovery

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  1. Hi Popeye, Thanks for the concern and well wishes. Unfortunately Mom and Dad are getting to that point in life where all you can do is try to keep them safe and comfortable. Hopefully the shipyard will open up this spring. I’m already thinking about my next build. The Confederacy is at the top of my list, maybe from the Lumberyard if I can work up the courage. Take care my friend. Larry
  2. Hi Sjors, its good to hear from you! I hope you and Anja are doing well. Our world is bit up side down right now but hopefully by spring it will get better.
  3. Hi John &Everone Else, This is the first time I ck’ed into MSW for months. I just have too many irons in the fire! I’m sorry to hear about your Admiral, I hope she has a fast recovery! In regard to you question, I used no.90 brass hex head machine screws. I found them in a local hobby store. The turn handles are 0.010 nylon cord I found at Hobby Lobby. I cut a long piece, dipped the end in CA glue, held it vertical so the glue formed a knob, then cut it to length and glued into the jack screw head. I may be repeating myself....lol I do not recall how much detail I gave on my buil
  4. We're staying in Florida, moving @25 miles west to get closer to our son who is very ill. We'll get a bigger home (downsized too much) which we miss, along with an acre lot for more privacy. The best part is I can move the shipyard into the house, I've grown to like heat and AC in my old age... Packing started today, gawd I hate moving...
  5. Thanks for the replys. My attachment plan is to simply glue the cordage to the inside leg wall of the stanchion, being very careful to use a minimum amount of glue. I preferred drilling through holes in the legs but backed away from that method after many failed attempts. Yesterday, we signed papers to sell our home. We have to close and be out June 21. It's going to be interesting over the next 6-12 months...
  6. I have three samples of stanchion rope I would like your opinion on. My next step is to mount rope to the stanchions I recently installed. Plans are to run two rows across the stanchions with a wood top-rail. I currently have three samples of cordage I can use and I would like your opinion which one looks best or if you think I should keep looking for something better. I'll glue the cordage to the inside of the stanchions and may decide to leave the canvas bedroll cover off. The photos do not show the exact installed position, the rope is simply close to the intended location for this decision
  7. Good morning Sjors, This ship does not have netting. The kit shows two horizontal ropes from stanchion to stanchion and a wood toprail, using a canvas tarp to cover the bedrolls. I believe the actual ship had three horizontal rows of rope, but I think I'll stick with two spending on how it looks. I may also forgo the canvas tarp, again depending on how it looks. I have three different type ropes to try for horizontal runs. Take care....
  8. Hi Popeye, nice build you have going. I think I'll pull up a seat. Many if not all of the builds I was following have been completed since I took some MSW time off (I still need to check them out). As usual, I see excellent craftsmanship and artistic excellence!
  9. Thanks Popeye, I think I'll install the ropes and wood railing next to make sure I can complete this area before moving to the other side. I have so much to catch up on, things I started but did not finish. Coil ropes, deadeyes rotated and glued in position, the second anchor and a few other items. Since I have to reach over the stanchions to place the carronade coiled ropes, I may do this next..., but we will see. Common sense does not always apply with me...
  10. I managed to finish making and mounting the aft starboard hammock stanchions after a couple of aww hecks. First, I broke two of the mount pins by simply handling them too rough, I managed to. solder them back on without melting the plastic stirrups by clamping the stanchion in a wet cloth which provided enough heat sink – lucky break for me. The next mistake was measuring the distance between each stanchion. The plans call for eleven pieces. I carefully measured and started mounting them using a wood spacer but did not account for the thickness of the stanchion resulting in mounting only ten.
  11. Thanks Steve, glad you stopped by to look. I now have eleven metal stanchions painted and ready for installation. I'm currently working on the wood stanchions that mount by the steps.
  12. Hi Edwin, Thank you for the kind words and thoughts. I agree with you on the downfalls of aging. Family and health is precious and becomes more so once you realize how fragile they become in later years of life. I hope you and yours are doing well and enjoying life as much as possible. It's good to be back posting on MSW and I hope I can provide more timely updates this year. Take care....
  13. After all of the above I could not successfully drill another hole without breaking drill bits! I went thru 8 bits, breaking them off each time and losing a stanchion each time. I varied the drill bit speed, tried to drill much slow in respect the bit pressure, talked to two machinist friends until I finally gave up. Plan "B" is to glue the rope on the inside of the stanchion. At this scale is should look ok providing I use small enough thread. Next is to add the stirrups on the top of each leg. I found some StripStyrene plastic channel thats 0.060 wide with 0.037 cha
  14. Now that I have the shape I need, squared and trimmed, I need to center punch each leg at a high and low spot to run the rope through. Two more jigs are needed, one for each spot. As you can see in the photos, the depth of immersion is fixed and the V notch aligns where the center punch is located. One photo shows a stanchion with an anchor tail solder in place. I'll use this method to help secure the stanchion to the top rail. I soldered them free hand which was not pretty or very straight, but I'll clip them off short, use a bigger than necessary hole that will fill up with CA gl
  15. Now here is where it got interesting to me. I could not bend the legs to get a ninety degree corner. I was ok with a radius but wanted to improve it a bit. My neighbor used to be a machinist for the airlines. Showing him what I'm doing and the issue I'm trying to resolve he said he may have something he made 20 years ago that may help. It was a metal jig used to form a part that had three sizes to choose from. Here is his jig with one mandrel that worked for me. I place a stanchion on the edge, assemble the two jig pieces and hit it a few times with a brass hammer and it took some of the radiu
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