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Everything posted by Sumner

  1. Nice colors! Keep up the good work -- definitely the right call to redo the work you're not satisfied with.
  2. Thanks for sharing the details of how you painted your hull, Daniel. I was thinking about trying a larger brush with multiple coats of thinned paint, but will give things a shot with a smaller brush. Glad to hear the Cruiser builds are still progressing. They are great little ships and will certainly build into a nice pair of models once you have the time to pay them more attention and your research is completed. The museum in Madrid sounds fascinating. A three-decker built in 1:24 would be massive -- that must've been a real sight to behold! Sumner
  3. Daniel, next time around I will definitely try a different wood, like pear, with a closer grain and the ability to hold an edge better. Your idea for a diorama sounds great, can't wait to see you pull that together. Are you still working on your Cruiser builds? Also, how did you paint your Sherbourne? Did you paint the white using a brush and thinned paint or an airbrush? It looks great! Gregor, great to hear from you! I just saw the picture of your diving boat on Lake Lucerne. That's a pretty wild boat you've got there! Jay, I'm with you on not following the instructions for these mod
  4. Dubz, ZyXux, Jay: Thanks very much. I'm pleased with how the clinker planking turned out, although things get tricky as the run of planks approach the wales. I've done the final starboard planks twice now, having re-done them after finding myself unsatisfied with how they came out. The current result is okay, but I wish it was better. I'm currently trying to decide if I can still do a better job and, if so, what exactly I would do over. I would really like to maintain the nice run of planks from this part of the build, as much as possible. Kester: Thanks! The views can certainly be stu
  5. Clinker planking has to start from the garboard plank. As described above, I used 4mm x 0.5mm walnut strips. The plan was to have a 1mm overlap on each plank, with the top edge of each plank sanded to accommodate the one above it.. Things got off to a pretty smooth start. It's key to make sure the garboard plank does not rise too high, as that effect gets magnified as the planks rise along the bow. You want to keep the run of the planks as flat as possible. One step that I neglected in the first part of my build was to carve the rabbet. At the time, I didn't feel very co
  6. Interesting thoughts and perspective on the lids, Jay. I guess the advantage of having lids would be to offer a bit more weather protection, especially since the gunports went all the way to the cap rail. One of the aspects that I like about these plans is that they give us a hint of what the Sherbourne looked like, but still leave plenty of room for interpretation. Hong Kong is a pretty unique place. If it weren't for work, we wouldn't be here ... and we wouldn't be living quite so high up. There are days when it rains that we're literally living in the clouds and can't see the ground
  7. Hi Daniel, great to hear from you! I've been enjoying your Port Jackson schooner build and love the careful, precise work that you do. Thanks for recommending the 4mm planks. We had the same discussion on MSW 1.0 before I started the second planking and I followed your advice. This is definitely a good size to use, although I found the 4mm x 0.5mm walnut planks sometimes difficult to shape because they tend to splinter so easily. I wonder if a more closed-grain wood, such as pear, might produce better results? The discussion about the gunport lids is very interesting. I look forward to see
  8. Thanks for the likes and for checking in, guys! Paddy, glad you're enjoying this build log. The Sherbourne is a great little kit and has been a lot of fun to build. Perfect kit for a first timer with more imagination/ambition than woodworking skills. Jay, hope you're feeling better. I'm close to getting current on my buildlog and aim to get the outstanding pictures posted soon. About time, too. Last week or so, I've actually been back in the shipyard for the first time in a year and half. Getting close to finishing the clinker hull and have started to reconstruct the stern counter.
  9. Thanks for the vote of confidence, Kester! I've still got a long ways to go, and a lot to learn. In hindsight, I should have protected the stern planking better. The above pictures are almost 2 years old now, and the stern doesn't look as good now as it did then. Lesson learned! Best, Sumner
  10. I started the second planking by marking the wales, using two 3mm X 0.5mm planks on each side. I marked the position by taking (rough) measurements off the NMM plans. I installed the these planks by gluing one section at a time with PVA glue, gradually making my way aft along the length of the model. Overall, I'm pretty happy with how they came out, both in terms of positioning and symmetry. After marking the wales, I installed the stern counter and planked over it using 4mm x 0.5 mm strips to mask the fact this is made from a single piece of walnut. I
  11. Thanks for stopping by, David. I see you've lined up the Lady Nelson as your next build. Will be great to have another cutter model on the ways. Seeing the excellent and precise work you've done on your Sultana, I'm sure it will be an awesome build, too. Best, Sumner
  12. Thanks, Jay. I was pretty happy with how this turned out. I'll put up some pictures of my second planking tomorrow, which should pretty much bring me up to date on my progress. No worries at all, Tony!
  13. The error is more clearly apparent when you compare the final picture in my previous post with this shot from the NMM plans of the Sherbourne. Note the fuller curve of the stern, compared to flatter curve on my model. In my enthusiasm to fair the bulkheads, I oversanded the aft-most bulkhead which created a much flatter curve on the stern. If not corrected at this point, the model would not look as it did in the plans. To fix this, I traced the shape of the final bulkhead using the original piece of wood that it was cut from in the kit. When I taped that piece of paper to the mode
  14. And so the build continued, with the first layer of planking taking me about a month to complete. I actually got to enjoy this phase of the build and the routine that came with it, although I was happy to finish it. As you can tell, there was a lot of clinkering caused by my amateur planking job. This happened because I didn't shape the planks properly and therefore had to apply too much horizontal force to the planks in an effort to have them lie properly against the hull. I was able to fix this with a decent amount of sanding, using Tamiya tape to protect the keel and
  15. Hi Jay, Yes, I think the position of the tiller on the Fly plans probably comes close to what the tiller on the Sherbourne may have looked like, which means the companionway entrance was probably to port or starboard, with the tiller just aft of the companionway and the aft-most scuttle just ahead of it. It's a real pleasure seeing so much interest in the Sherbourne these days. There are a couple of really cool builds going on these days, and I'm sure yours will add an additional level of detail as I haven't yet seen anyone try to re-draw the Sherbourne plans. I'm looking forward to se
  16. Hi Jay, When you get your plans, take a look at the stern area in the plans. Also, take a look at the stern deck area on period cutter models or paintings of the cutter Alert: http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/paintings/cutter-alert-179885 I think you'll find the counter knees in the Sherbourne kit are way overbuilt and out of scale. I believe it's done this way for a good reason, giving modelers such as ourselves a solid structure to construct the stern and counter, and bend the respective pieces to their correct shapes. I'd like to find a way to do this with counter kne
  17. Before I started my first attempt at planking, I spent a lot of time looking at other build logs and reading the MSW planking guide. While the first layer of planking is hidden by the second, I wanted to do a reasonably correct job in order to learn as much as I could. I attempted to plot out the number and size of planks needed, using a combination of tape and battens. It didn't work out so well, The measurements I took were too imprecise and I didn't have a very clear understanding of what I was trying to accomplish. It wasn't very useful. However, the exercise did give me
  18. Thanks for following along, Jay. I just took a look at your build log and see you're just getting started. The Sherbourne is a great model and a lot of fun to build. I look forward to following your progress as I'm sure that I will learn a lot. MSW has been an invaluable resource for me in that regard. Like you, I went with a clinker hull and got to within 5 planks of completing the second planking below the wales. At that point, work became too busy for me to continue. However, once I've caught up on my build log I would like to get some work on the model. Besides finishing the planking,
  19. Before I started the first layer of planking, I decided to install the stern counter and this became my first introduction to isopropyl alcohol, and a clear understanding of why it's a very good idea to use PVA instead of CA. After I installed the counter, I realized that I'd jumped ahead too far. I decided that I'd rather wait to put the counter on when I was sure it wouldn't interfere with planking. It was also a good opportunity to try out the ability of isopropyl alcohol to dissolve PVA glue. As you can see in the pictures below, this was really easy. After about 30 seconds, the w
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