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RichieG

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Everything posted by RichieG

  1. I've slowed down somewhat since my initial push on this project, but I have been continuing to pick away at it. I put in all of the dowels on one side: (On the second one from the left, I have glued on a piece that is from the next page of instructions just to see how it fits. Eventually, each of these dowels will get one of those glued on top of it.) This is a photo that shows how the dowels fit into the grooves that were precut into some of the pieces from an earlier step (compare to the last picture from the previous post): You can see that some of them needed to be cut short
  2. I think I've managed to finish all the steps on the pages that I've uploaded in previous posts. This involved the C12 and C13 pieces which then support the 3mm dowels (which will eventually support the rafters). When I put the dowels in, it was clear that they were higher at the outside edges than in the middle, so I tried to even things out by filing down the supports in the corners. At some point, it occurred to me that the edges were supposed to be higher, and I built them back up. The corner pieces with the dragon heads on the ends were laminated and glued into position.
  3. I've managed to get all 12 of the wall pieces on the second floor beveled and glued into place. The next page (page 27) is about putting a railing around the balcony of the second floor, and then some pieces that will ultimately support the roof just below the balcony. I have a picture that shows the railing in place, but I haven't put the support pieces in yet. The next page starts with cutting slots into some 3mm dowels so that they can fit together at right angles to each other. There is a more detailed picture of the slots with above and side views laser etched into one of the plywood
  4. I have the next two pages of instructions here. Page 25 shows the support columns installed, as well as 4 additional columns that are thinner (3 mm diameter) and taller that surround the central hole in the floor. There is a railing that is installed around the central hole which consists of 4 laser parts and 4 dowels cut to length that form the hand rail. Then 4 pieces with mortises fit together to form a square which is glued on top of the 4 thin dowels. A similar 3 sided railing is made around the top of the stairs. I have completed all of this, and have some photos of the details. Pag
  5. I have all four diagonal supports in (as seen in the first 2 pictures.) Also, if you look carefully, there are the small square supports in the 4 outside corners, and well as 4 square supports in the 4 corners of the inside square. Once this is put together, it sits on top of the base, as in the third picture, but without glue (so that you can take it apart and admire the detail of the ceiling.) The next two pages of instruction show the assembly of the small square supports from 2 pieces each, and how the top piece will look on top of the base. The rest of page 24 is devoted to putting d
  6. The first two pictures are meant to show the 2 layer lamination of the side pieces. There are 2 versions of this piece, and 2 of each version (for a total of 4 pieces), and care must be taken to make sure they are assembled correctly. The third picture has two of the edge pieces in place; the fourth has all four in there. In the fourth and fifth pictures, you can also see 2 of the diagonal pieces inserted (from above, and from an oblique view). They took a little jockeying to get in place; it helped to run the file through the slots once everything was assembled to make the slots nice and stra
  7. I really appreciate the help on posting pictures; I'm going to try doing that here. The next page of instruction is about adding more of those 'ladder' pieces (A16 and A17, 4 each) nearer to the center of this ceiling piece. They go in at an angle, and it's a little tough to tell exactly what angle, but I think it fits best one way. Then there are 4 pieces that will go around the outside edge of the ceiling; they have some of those same 45 degree bevels what will ultimately form a slot for some diagonal support pieces. These pieces are lamiated into two layers, and some cap-shaped pieces
  8. I have 2 more pages of instruction here: they explain how to get to the pictures in the previous post. Most of it is just slotting together pieces or gluing pieces together in a straightforward way. I do want to show some pictures of the beveling process that I used for the pieces in the previous post. I did mention that I used a file to work on both surfaces at the same time, and I have three pictures that show the piece with the laser mark showing where to bevel to, then one picture with the file in position, and a picture after filing is done. Also, I wanted to explain a little more ab
  9. I think I understand the outside walls situation better now: the side walls are slightly canted inwards at the top (perhaps for stability during those pesky earthquakes that egilman mentioned.) It makes it a little tough to fit the corners exactly, but it's pretty close if you finesse it a bit. I did install the front doors (the two side doors are closed, and the center door is glued in the open position.) I've also finished the stairs, and those are to be glued in place into the little cutouts in the base; I haven't glued them, but just stuck them in there. I'll lock it in when I see how they
  10. I have a picture of a ruler above: it's just to show that the measurement from the inside of the grooves is pretty close to 112.7 mm, as the red warning text suggested that it should be. (I'd call it 113 mm, but that's close enough. Page 10 and 11 have m putting the outer layer on all four walls. There are 2 identical rectangular pieces for the sides, and there is one for the back and another for the front that are trapezoids, with the bottom about 3 mm longer than the top (see the picture above where I've put a side piece into the opening for the back piece.) It doesn't make sense to me
  11. agreed, the pieces do interlock in a clever way. I was planning to try to do one page of instructions per day, but today, I find myself having finished 4 pages. (I want to finish before Christmas if possible, so it can be given as a gift; 53 pages and 65 days to go. The deadline should add a little excitement to what may otherwise have been a rather dull log.) Page 6 describes beveling and laminating the three front panels, which are much like the side and back panels, except that they have cutouts for doors. The two panels on the right and left are mirror-images of each other, and the im
  12. The three center panels on the sides and back are in. The next page has similar instructions about beveling the corners of 6 more wall pieces at 45 degrees, and there is a laser etched mark to help file or sand to the right point. (One thing I've noticed is that with repetition, things go a lot faster. It felt like it took a half hour to bevel the first piece, but now I can do it in about 60 or 70 seconds: 30 swipes on the file, and then another 10 on the sandpaper.) The difference in these pieces is that they get a double bevel on one side, and that side goes on the inside corner (as I h
  13. All 16 of the columns are in, and I made them as perpendicular as I could. Again, a reminder that the 4 pieces called "column 2" are almost imperceptibly longer than the "column 1" pieces, and they belong in the 4 corners. The next page (shown below) says to file a 45 degree bevel into the six E1 pieces and then laminate them onto the D5, making 3 pieces that are 3 layers each, with the bevel facing in and a groove along what will be the top of the piece (as piece D5 is shorter than pieces E1). These are then to be slid in between the columns as shown in the picture. In red text, it says somet
  14. Thanks, Egilman and Popeye. And the Chinese language is definitely an added layer. The automated translations are sometimes tough to make sense of, but so far I think I get the idea. This model gets much more complicated as you get further into it, so I have to just forge ahead and hope for the best. I should have some pictures of the progress by the end of the day. (I think my plan will be to put a page of the manual up, then my best guess at translation, and then the photos of what I put together.)
  15. I've completed the steps on page one, which produces a flat square composed of three layers of plywood and 4 pieces on the edges to hide the endgrain. The edge pieces have what look like bricks laser-etched onto the surface, and one edge of the square (which is the front) has a different design (which will allow for the steps to be glued on later). Note: the top piece is bigger than the two under it, and rides over the 4 edge pieces. On page 2, the text says to round over 12 pieces (column 1) and 4 pieces (column 2) to match the contour of piece C6. Glue all 16 columns into the holes on t
  16. The parts are all labeled by the letter corresponding to the sheet they are on, and a number, so it should be easy to find the correct part. Step one appears to be to glue parts H1 and J1 together, and then glue part C1 on top of those. There is mention to align the holes in part C1 with the lasered circles marks on part H1, but to make sure not to get glue in the holes. Then 3 parts C14 and part C15 are glued onto the edges of those after the back sides are beveled at 45 degrees. Also, the red circle is in the lower right corner of the page is meant to indicate the front of the building.
  17. my translation of the text in the second photo above is as follows: (be kind, I know that there are mistakes, but I'm starting to get the idea) Assembly instructions: use a small knife to remove the member from the plate , be careful not to damage the member , pay attention to remember the positive member when picking up Reverse side : this model needs to be bonded , please use woodworking glue bonding ; part of the components need to be properly processed , please in the assembly before processing, use tools such as knives, knives, sandpaper, etc. as instructed in the instructio
  18. This is a build log of the Kaiyuan Temple from Cafmodel. It is a 1/75 scale wooden model of an ancient Chinese building from the late Tang Dynasty (as per the website). People here may be familiar with Cafmodel from Tom's excellent wooden ship models, but I presume that these ancient building models were produced at some earlier time. The model comes with a 53 page instruction book with nice drawings and Chinese language instructions. My plan is to translate those with some computer translation program, but the pictures alone give a pretty good idea of what to do. I have put photos of a f
  19. looking great, Steve. I also am building this model, but have been away from it for about a year. I'm planning to get back to it soon, and I will follow along with you here!
  20. I think you did great under the time pressure. And you motivated me to get moving on my Mayflower. I've been at it at least a year off and on, and I'm well behind you. But your log helped me figure some things out. How did you paint those gold swirly shapes on the beakhead? Freehand?
  21. JP, continues to look great! I love the idea of cutting an opening in the false deck under the grating! It lets in some light so that you can actually see the capstan under there! Just a small point: don't forget to put some stanchions along the inside of the transom.
  22. nicely done! great details on the bulkheads! but, I think you made a mistake with the sizing of the hatch on the forecastle deck. I believe that you're meant to put the pieces on the outside of the marks on the false deck rather than on the inside. Stuntflyer did the same thing on his build log, and chuck corrected him. (I think they belong to the same club, and he may have shown it to him at a meeting, but there are pictures before and after the correction on his log, if you want to check it out.) It might be a purely cosmetic thing, except that there's a point later on where you ac
  23. agreed, this is rapid progress, and looks great! (It took me months to get to this point!) I'm looking forward to seeing you catch up and pass me!
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