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Boxbuilds

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  1. Looks like we have another rigging dilemma: 1 The number of deadeyes on the MAAS model main mast appears to differ from our model; 2 the tops on the MAAS model have deadeyes/lanyards but not ours (see att diagram); 3 the MAAS beak head is decorated with columns and arched portals different from ours; and, 4 as mentioned before, the masts have flag masts and caps. I lean towards getting with the owners, showing them the differences and recommending replicating the MAAS model. One of them may have been repaired in the past and my money is on the less detailed one......but who knows. Rigging the upper shrouds in either case is incorrect. The lines are tied off below the top and are brought up outside the top like a futtock shroud. But the line is continued above the top and attached to the mast like a shroud. Ratlines are tied to the upper shrouds. From a distance the rigging appears familiar but was obviously an expedient in manufacture. A confusing issue is he construction on our model. Where the MAAS model shows 7 deadeyes for the main mast, ours shows 5. I looked for evidence of where 2 other deadeyes might be attached on the bulwark of our model and found none (see blowup pic). The wire chain plate from the lower deadeye to the hull goes through a hole drilled in the bulwark and down the side of the hull where it is grounded on a nail. While I can't see evidence from the photo available, perhaps the missing main shroud deadeye attachment is simply to the side of the hull unlike its mates.
  2. There are several repair tasks to do. One of the pot metal anchors was broken in half. To avoid scorch marks I might have caused with a torch, I used a resistance soldering tool to mend it. After cleaning, fluxing and tinning the parts I set them up in a jig. That gave me two hands to work with and was important when the metal took so long to reach temperature. Cleaning off the residue and a dab of matching paint and it is presentable again. The rear galley once had a roof. The Australian model still has it. It is made of card stock. only fragments of fragile black and gold painted card stock remained. Using the Aussie ship I frabricated a similar roof. It's received a first coat of paint. Gold trim will be applied and weathered once the base coat is finished. I placed piece of the old roof on the new one in the pic to compare the contour and gold trim. That trim is different than that in the Aussie model which looks light blue. Also reworked the stand... simple clean and glue job.
  3. Besides the wire Feathermerchent describes, closer inspection also shows small nails used to reinforce the joint. Many of the techniques used to tie lines is non-standard. The pics attached show stay lines and futtock shrouds around a top; deadeye attachment to the shrouds; a half hitch commonly used around the masts; and, deadeye attachment to the hull. Some lines are attached to the hull tied around a nail. Uncommon or unlike a ship of this age, it has fife rails with belaying pins at the base of the fore and main masts. Deadeye positions along the hull only seem to support the lower shrouds. The masts are a single piece of dowel with turned crows nests slipped over them into position. They are supposed to be topped by a cap and flag mast. Hopefully this will contribute to the veracity of the rigging plan.
  4. The cleaning is basically done. I am comparing the "look" with the MAAS model and they are close...so I didn't clean too deeply. The guns, gunport covers, rigging and masts have been removed. The masts and yards will be shipped to the member that's going to rig them. We are missing topsail, topgallant, main and lanteen yards -- one of each. The flag masts are also going to need replacing. Feathermerchant will provide replacement yards. He is also getting the rigging. It is three diameters: .5, 1, 1.5 mm (lanyards, running rigging, and stays respectively). It is nice to see the colors and gold trim come out Unfortunately, the dirt covered myriad splits/cracks. None threaten the integrity. It will be better to leave them alone. It adds age character. The gun covers and guns will be replaced soon
  5. 6/23/20. Planning and start of work The ship has been photographed. An inventory of the existing model and parts was made. This allowed our members to know the model’s condition, the tasks involved and what must be remade. The tasks are being shared among club members, as appropriate. A distributed approach to projects was carefully considered by the club. The project benefits from the talents of the team members and the task list is finished more quickly. Of course good communication and attention to the task dependencies is essential. Clear plans are important. A rigging plan is being constructed from Pics of a twin model at the museum of applied arts and sciences in Australia. Other drawings will likewise maintain consistency with the original. Each member will be adding to this log regarding their work. Another key aspect of the project is understanding the owners’ expectations. They become our goals and guide. In this case the owners asked for a restoration that retains the aged appearance they grew up with. Over the years the ship condition deteriorated. The gallery roof is gone, there is damaged and missing woodwork, a sail is missing and the rigging is “gone.” Cleaning is started. It is bringing out underlying colors and gold trim was discovered. To access the complete hull the guns, gunports, rigging fragments, masts, yards, bowsprit and sails were removed. The cleaning will target dirt and show the original detail that were lost to age. Some guns, blocks and dead eyes are missing. Drawings of these items are done. And prototypes to compare with original parts are being completed. It is of Note that this model’s parts are unique and don’t conform with conventional commercial parts. Once the missing pieces are ready, the parts, yards, masts and rigging plans will be sent to the team member who will rig them.
  6. Thanks. Yes we'll put up a pic as we received it. This is , I believe the original 1514 configuration of the GH before its redesign and streamline work in 1557. Bill Nyberg and I are working on rigging plans so this'll be a good time to get more detail. The ship was renamed the Edward after Henry's death so that may provide another source...
  7. The Central Ohio Shipwrights has been chartered to restore an old model of a British carrack of the 16th Century. It sports four (or five, if you count the bowsprit). The mizzenmast and bonaventure midden masts have lanteen sails. While there are Spanish carracks of similar design, they only influenced GHs construction. This model has few lines in place, has broken woodwork and is in sore need of cleaning. It is missing a few pieces that will have to be reproduced. Club members are researching, drawing rigging plans, inventorying, and cleaning. Stay tuned.
  8. Wardee-Jay sold replicas of circus wagons from late 1940s and early 50s. They contained one page construction drawings with notes. Wood, wire, pins, stamped parts and soft metal castings (mostly wheels) were provided. Decals were included but by this time they crumbled when touched. So decorations were handed painted. A few liberties were taken with the giraffe wagon by addding a sliding roof panel so the toy giraffes could be seen. In general they follow the plans which reflect Ringling Bros equipment.
  9. Restoration of a model offered by Popular Mechanic magazine in 1926. Built in 1936 by Walt Hoffman, it was in disrepair and suffering from age
  10. Too kind, Mike. This was a really different experience.. the builder did his own thing in many cases including a dolphin striker! I'm bringing it up on Sat. anyway, thanks
  11. RiggedNow review of plans vs product. Fragile elements will be installed, like headboard, dolphin striker and gallery. I pickup the case today so I plan on delivering the ship this weekend.
  12. Your dad took good care of that battle wagon. Not many plastic models withstand time so well. Gonna fix it up and case it?. So how's the carving coming? We're anxious to see samples. Maybe Saturday...if you're off
  13. I previously mentioned that attaching the sails to the yards was easier before the yards were hung on the masts. Now I have attached the yards and added some of the running rigging. I have also glued down the masts and run the stays and shroudlines. In opting to preserve some of the original rigging, I accepted their "flaws."the hull mounted dead eyes are very crowded and misaligned. Their mates on the shrouds are anything but aligned. This situation is in keeping with reality but it messes with my sense of order!
  14. Sails painted, bent to yards and masts set in the hull. Rigging next.
  15. Got the first top done. I wanted to keep the shrouds and ratlines.......the lines fell apart! The least pressure pops the lines. Just moving the masts around on the worktop broke them. I'll restring them. They are not authentically installed. The instructions run them up through one lubber hole and down the other one. Orrrr the shrouds are run through the mast under the tops. Whatever the builder did, I'll copy.
  16. Now, the masts, yards, sails and rigging. The masts already have the tops built including card stock railings. Due to the condition of the original shrouds, I opted to preserve them so they are still attached. This includes the tops shrouds. The instructions directed a simplistic, inauthentic method for attaching the shrouds to the tops. It serves the purpose though. The deadeyes for the shrouds are of different conditions. Some are serviceable but others crumble when you look at them. I'll use the instructions to manufacture any required replacements. First I'll restring the tops shrouds. Then step the masts and bend the shrouds. I'm considering attaching the sails to the yards before hanging the yards.
  17. pAs I work I have to ask myself about the next steps. Should I unglue, cut, strip, paint, remake, fill, replace, do it the right way, leave how it was made, use a modern part....? I examined different approaches and found that they are easily defined as narrow rules. Which one is used is largely a factor of the desired outcome. Clean refurbish restore rebuild Four similar but distinct words. Clean means get the dirt off. No repair even if needed. Minimal disturbance of the model. Refurbish means clean and only repair broken lines, cracks, splits, etc. to maintain the current age of the item. No repaint or new material except that related to repair. Restore means to clean and refurbish. It means to examine the condition of the entire item to assess what might need to be changed to bring it back to a previous condition....like when it was new. No updating or improving parts for the sake of it. Use as much original item as possible. Only resort to new material when the original is not usable. Rebuild means all the above using modern materials as desired, plans and information in an effort to improve the veracity of the item. I talked to the Nuestra's owner about what she wanted. She wanted to restore the ship to "new" condition. Comparing this list -- fix dirt, cracks, broken pieces, snapped lines, stained worn sails, and limit to original build -- aligned with the restore option. So far that has been the guide. For example, When the gun wreaths were cracked, torn, dull, and warped I straightened and repainted many of them. I remade torn gun wreaths and aged them to match the originals. One of these is new... This was an important part of my planning and progress for the project. Thought I'd share this aspect

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