Boxbuilds

Phil, Glad to see you logging this card build. Card can be challenging due to strength and rigidity. But, especially for folks without space and/or woodworking tools, card is a good option for someone thinking about this craft. You and Doris have demonstrated that it is plausible to build, not just rowboats, but complex ships which could encourage them. Like most, I’ve used card and with a sharp blade some intricate parts can be produced. But I haven’t had the guts to try a full ship. I have plans for a card bireme and the Hindenburg that I might tackle now, once I absorb all your practices. Thanks for sharing. I look forward to this build.

There multiple differences. The sails are not painted. The deadeyes are not tapered and have a right angle edge from the flat front to the to the side. The fighting towers have a similar profile but the opening is different, as noted. The crows nest shape is different. The is no discernible paint. There is no cover on the gallery. There are chasers present. Gun placement is different. I can’t see a figurehead. The anchor has the same shape. Guns were turned to the same shape and gunport covers appear the same. Masts and yards have similar taper. I’m inclined to think that they were both made by the same group because of the guns and casting of the anchor (unique shape). The differences mostly seem time saving as you point out Keith. The gun placement is puzzling. It doesn’t match old images. Regardless, this would be keen to restore although there would be a lot of guessing about the details to be weathered. What if it got restored in time for the Midwest show!

I wonder if we should be more tolerant of some decorative ship models. Some can be so rough that we might not find them acceptable for our collections. Beauty is in the eye …… But some represent the standard for the time they were built and are worthy of some respect. Attached are photos of a one hundred+ year old decorative model and a simplistic modern decorative model. One sits in a museum and was said to have been featured at the 1937 World Exposition in Paris. The other is sold on a popular website. Both are 4 masted, have a solid wooden hull, are inaccurately rigged and were/are reasonably priced in their time. My point is probably obvious. The value of these items is relative to other factors besides the precision and/or accuracy with which they were built. As model shipwrights and proponents of nautical history, we should want to acknowledge the history of “model shipwrighting.” We have probably seen models of Egyptian funeral barges from BC periods. We were also seeing how some model shipwright of the day built that model. That’s history. Building models depends on the information, tools, materials, and technology of their time. The ship models for burial chambers, cathedrals, powerful merchants, naval engineers, etc. were limited by these and other factors. We wouldn’t expect to see an admiralty model in the 9th century, for example. Given this perspective, maybe some of these old, but less accurate models are worth appreciating for what they were. Another aspect of judging decorative models is the converse of the factors vs period in which they were built. When the information, tools, materials and technology IS available when a model is built but these factors were not well applied to the result, then it’s more understandable when that model disappoints. While some people are not nautical fans and don’t want ship models, others don’t have the knowledge, skills or time to fix an old decorative ship that the cat destroyed a decade ago. So out goes the model. For the right person, finding this wreck can be fortunate if they evaluate it a moment upon discovering it. Maybe it has enough history, nostalgia, character, or challenge to appeal to you. If so, it’s worth thinking about restoring it.

For some reason I'm captivated by some of these German models. My best research puts their rise in the period of restoration in Germany after WWII. I cannot identify a manufacturer either. One possibility is that they were made as a home industry -- a lot popped up at the time. I have found evidence of many decorative models from that period that use the same unique blocks, deadeyes, rigging technique, painted sails and paint scheme which, to my mind, indicates a bigger effort. I read that one of the German wooden toy makers that existed then did dabble in ships. There wasn't enough elaboration to confirm those ships were the ones of interest. So that may be a dead end. In summary, I also tried to establish a provenance to the Great Harry and spent several months searching any source I could think of, to no avail.

Howard I spent a year restoring a decorative model of the Harry. I spent a lot of time researching the ship and have some material hinting at the model’s rigging. I found that these models sport “representative rigging”—something that gives the viewer a sense of the rigging but in no way complete or accurate. Furthermore, many components like blocks, flags, guns etc will be missing and need to be fabricated. My wife will kill me but if you need help restoring yours we should talk more. John

A couple of additional photos as requested Harry is tied down for travel with custom retainers Reproducing 80+ deadeyes and blocks and riggging him properly was a challenge

Thank you. It's been wonderful and tiring but the ship is beautiful.

Darrell, Bill and I have finished Harry. After over 500 est hrs of work and a year I have taken to calling Henry Grace a Dieu, "Harry." ....it's shorter and we are certainly familiar. He has been cleaned, his broken or missing parts are present, his sails are all rigged and he's ready for another hundred years. Thanks to all for your support and suggestions. Special thanks to the Powerhouse Museum of Sydney, Australia for the great photos of their copy of Harry. It was a valuable assist. Below, find the before/after shots

Happy Christmas and Happy Holidays, all. Sorry about updates. The masts and yards were shipped off to another club member to rig. Once they get back, I will complete the job.. In the meantime I've built a small stern-wheeler and am finishing the Constructo "Louise" steam launch. I'm sure the rigged masts will arrive soon. Till then, have a safe, healthy New Year.

Thanks folks. This was a bit more challenging (for a simple craft) than I expected. As you all are, I eagerly await inoculation and a return to talking face to face with people...its coming. Stay well in the meantime.

Skip forward to finish.

I like the metal trim. nice touch to a nice case

nice accessories

it would be a shame to waste walnut on a painted model...good call

Chuck, Of all the jobs required to build most models, I don't think any are as daunting as taking a chisel to a keel for the rabbet. Talk about quickly screwing up, making a mistake cutting the rabbet is rarely recoverable (I know). The forums and build logs talk a good bit about the topic, and there are YouTube videos regarding the topic on real ships. Would it be useful to demonstrate the techniques from bearding line to laying a plank to installing a false stem? Thanks for asking for ideas and your unfathomable experience. John

I appreciate the scrutiny and discourse. Finding old texts written in a time when lost technology existed or was fresh in the authors minds, is intriguing. It's like being back there......eh, don't mean to be nostalgic. Anyway, I get a kick out of finding these odd examples and imagining modeling them -- as though I had the time! I will reexamine the gearing. The photos are unforgiving and screaming for improvement. We'll see

Say you live near water that is shallow....like, roll-up-your-pants- and-take-off-your-shoes shallow with plenty of plant life. Davis was writing about how to build (not model) a shallow water boat with a ~7 inch draft to putz around in without fouling. He was pretty detailed in his directions and provided meaningful explanations for the design. I cannot do justice to his discussion of the drive rationale (including the dilemma of many chain-drives) so I just copied it here for you. I believe these engines employed a friction clutch, serving the dual purpose of engaging the drive and avoiding the "grounding" catastrophe you mention. The worm and gear are supposed to be a 4/1 ratio. At 300 rpm, the output of the 3 cylinder, 2 cycle engine, and 25% slip the boat could achieve 8 mph, according to Davis. The biggest issue I see with this design is that the engine control is a distance from the steering, making it imperative to have 2 people controlling the boat. I pretty much followed his directions but in small scale and found it fun. I did make some slight mods, as a builder would, but nothing affecting the executable plan. After building mostly sailing ships, and being in the midst of the Soliel Royale and restoring the Great Harry, I try to find unique craft to build for a break....this is one of those. I'm happy it piqued your interest too.

Awesome ....did you use the match?🔥🙂

The drive train required custom parts that I printed. The gears forced a change in the height of the axle bearings which required changes in the wheel size to ensure water contact. To ensure clearance from the rudders and transom a modification to the wheel supports was necessary. The paddlewheels are finished and will be mounted after the painting is complete. The bearings are slices of styrene tubing mounted inside a brass housing. Roof cross-supports are arches with a scale 4 inch curve. They're mounted in slotted basswood laminated with walnut. The curve of the sides of the boat was transposed to the longitudinal roof supports. With the cross supports in place a thin wood roof will make the basis of the roof. The wood will be covered with a "tarp" and trimmed out. There is no generator for electricity in the plans which made the galley and head very dark. It made sense to add portholes for light. Mica is used for the glazing. Where seating was indicated, I installed storage below despite the original, open plan. The steering was new to me but makes sense. I installed pullies, ran the lines through the bulkheads and out to the rudder assembly.

These are great examples. I admire the craftsmanship and artistry that went into figureheads. It's amazing that they have weathered time as well as many have.

Nice copper work

what did you use for the fine fishnet?? I am searching for a more realistic looking net like yours.

Very nice scroll job.

ahoy, bilge rat. hope this index helps

My pleasure. I took down the pics cause they were too fuzzy. It requires print screens to capture a page. I had pages up for ship model sites but there are pages regarding canals....Is that of interest? I'd be glad to send images of those pgs to you..incidently, did the link work for you? If not I'll work on that too. Write me back and let me know. Meanwhile I'll work on the original images. John