Jump to content

0Seahorse

Members
  • Content Count

    56
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by 0Seahorse

  1. Hello everybody,

     

    A few years ago, I had the opportunity to ask Mr. Hoving for his opinion on the plans of a sailing ship of the Polish fleet participating in the Battle of Oliwa (1627). These drawings were not of the highest caliber and I felt it was a pity to spend time building a model with so many design errors. But Mr. Hoving did not leave me empty-handed, but suggested building a more interesting ship, such as "De Zeven Provincien", and so my adventure with this project began. Not only did Ab Hoving give me the drawings, but he supported and continues to support me with his knowledge and patience. I certainly wouldn't have started this project without his help. Thank you, Ab.

    Since for 30 years I have been gluing only cardboard models, which have their specificity and limitations, so not all details are reproduced, not all boards, beams and nails have been included in my project. I have omitted details on the lower decks that are not visible anyway.
    As usual, I started with the hull frames made of cardboard with a thickness of 1 mm. Although the model is not small (for a cardboard model), 1 mm thickness is sufficient. The gunports will only be open on one side and I've put simplified gun carriages there. I painted the interiors in a dark color to avoid the "shining" of the white of the paper.

    378261279_szkielet1.thumb.jpg.6de3504a86c7d2f9756ad6ab29a580ef.jpg

    245934430_szkielet2.jpg.998e226d68fc00e527b227294c06b998.jpg

    66640667_szkielet3.thumb.jpg.185f643c44525a8557522ac9415380d2.jpg

     

    In order to stiffen the structure and make it easier to stick the planks later, vertical stripes were glued. A little practice allows them to be glued directly to the 1mm edge of the frames without any additional paper strips.

    poprzeczne.thumb.jpg.23a792fc93ce7fb20dd6e207c867f8f2.jpg

    756328404_poprzeczne2.thumb.jpg.77c79ccbd66afd017c235dbe1fb2b2d6.jpg

    On the hull prepared in this way, I glued the first layer of 0.5 mm cardboard. Such a layer (and in the case of this model there will be two layers) allows you to oval the hull and avoid the marks of frames, which is a very common occurrence in the case of cardboard hulls. Cardboard is much more easily deformed than wood. For many years I have not used any "fillers" such as putty, it's just what I've learned over the years and it suits me.

    1163010016_poduzne1st02.thumb.jpg.c65ed6ecc092bbaa4cb2b8dd88064ded.jpg

    1081935796_poduzne1st03.thumb.jpg.9eaf8646fc3f8da9f60420914b49534f.jpg

    In open gunports I built 1.0 mm cardboard frames. In some places it was necessary to remove minor defects with sandpaper.

    Then I glued the lower parts of the stern and prepared the rudder.

    1499131150_ster01.jpg.ff99a57732145b5d75eb653ab16a19ee.jpg

    The time has come to stick the second layer of 0.8 mm cardboard on the hull. Since the planks had a thickness of about 1 mm on this scale, I wanted to take this thickness into account for gunports, where edges are visible. I thickened the keel in the stern part to get the effect of thicker lower planks (zandstroken).

    1814131013_secondlayer.thumb.jpg.89d409f509b84516f9153f0a6b7d49d8.jpg

    1483116595_2ndlayer02.jpg.0cd858e34ed29da22ec94496463133d8.jpg

    As the model requires a lot of work, I started gluing the final planks at this stage. I will not have to turn the model upside down in the future and thus expose it to damage. So I went with the cover up to the gunports and to the verdek level.

    570526287_dno03.jpg.7d4f313c51573e877a02c65b57ee35b9.jpg

    The subsequent stages of building the hull were similar.

    269163124_dno05.jpg.18dfa50dc1307a65153bbedc57929ad9.jpg

    557727598_30_06_2001.thumb.jpg.1b83039b82a10f9b157851134a820700.jpg

    The first cannons and the next deck have appeared.1940428431_30_06_2009.jpg.e7064bf9fb2a010bbd4a428f122ed618.jpg

    1989549380_30_06_2007.jpg.25b9119ee50c33210d5f8b4c553634f2.jpg

    It's time for stern galleries. I had to glue such complex shapes for the first time and in the heat of the fight I completely "missed" the fact that the lower parts of the side galleries are in the colour of dark wood. It is much more likely that they were rather "greenish" like the rest of the gallery and the upper part of the hull, which can be seen in many old paintings. It will stay that way, because I do not paint the models (parts are already printed in color) and attempts to tear off the gallery could end up with damage that I would not repair.

    gallery.jpg.950627bcd526a94bf97af9423459fb70.jpg

    1982751283_gallerysterburta.jpg.804a6b33a46980487565708ff2a8f823.jpg

    667112574_rufa03.jpg.1ba7a251d95cf6ef3a4def8a137af42f.jpg

    1115456207_rufa07.jpg.5d3526662a6d6b05f9d67d50d1c9d45a.jpg

    I will move to the bow soon as there is still a lot to do there.

     

    Greeting

    Tomek

     

    Verdek hull.jpg

  2. Hi Ab,

    it is something strange with "silkspan", as I was looking for it some time ago and didn't find it. It was used for RC models, but I found only paper called "Japanese paper", what seems to be the same. Very thin and very strong stuff, half-transparent so it should be painted before with acrilic paints.  There are some movies on YT how to make sails of silkspan, but look there.

     

    Best

    Tomek 

     

  3. Hello
    Some time ago I started building Sao Gabriel based on the model in the museum in Lisbon. I do not have exact plans, but based on photos, dimensions and proportions of this type of vessels I managed to design a ship quite similar to the original. The progress in the construction is enough to show the first photos.
    The hull frames were made of 1 mm thick cardboard.

    1469779207_szkielet10.thumb.jpg.2409171ed45392339ad91459821a6995.jpg

    996842953_szkielet8.thumb.jpg.426786b6c5917dc6a7c51c7eb260a8cf.jpg

    1879011477_szkielet7.thumb.jpg.1cef991b14f9593500c177513a99b5ef.jpg

    I have planned three layers of planking: the first vertical layer, which stabilizes the frames, the second longitudinal one on the cardboard 0.5 mm and the third one in color as the final planks. After gluing the first layer, I added some of the decks and evened the entire hull with sandpaper to remove adhesive residues and greater inaccuracies.

    1122430343_poprzeczne01.thumb.jpg.63d493680097cdc161be350862917a8c.jpg

    2104826347_poprzeczne04.thumb.jpg.ea38098a19c453064962c552cd43b88e.jpg

    1691294507_poprzeczne05.thumb.jpg.b75dc7f820598d5103ab34dd2d3eb6b5.jpg

    1752538950_poprzeczne07.thumb.jpg.f3f4879287f6055754f126918e7a0440.jpg

    On these parts you can see lines according to which I will glue the next layer.

    Before sticking the next decks, I had to make a few details, which would later be very difficult to access.

    419229704_poprzeczne06.thumb.jpg.f7eb91c7296bf9b4f8f6d1d2be24de67.jpg

    Then I glued the second layer, so far only to the level of the main deck and then I built a part of the forecastle.

    1644476751_podunep04.thumb.jpg.44c8f396dae1bd6d4ad44c021d81366f.jpg

    223852704_podunep05.thumb.jpg.88d324e0f17f92d83b1238394debedf0.jpg

    The construction of forecastle...

    7117367_kasztel01.thumb.jpg.03ea6acb0b2aa4438ac5c8b48fe26aaf.jpg

    Then, step by step, I added the next strips of the second layer and the next level in the forecastle.

    434633037_wntrza05.thumb.jpg.c1508ae18b7571751d8bd0c1e3fb9224.jpg

    Because the model has a lot of windows in the stern part, I created some rooms there. Unfortunately, there are not many sources describing rooms in sailing ships from this period, so this is only my imagination.

    1582728808_wntrza06.thumb.jpg.912c1f10cc184f5b329bf8c3afa597fe.jpg

    Now I could "lock" the whole with the upper decks.

    958038241_closed09.thumb.jpg.7a279f877bb272d418457c2f3ca3bd97.jpg

    1728133238_closed02.thumb.jpg.d5cd0b9b93eff8ec961e6e4b2fcc86b5.jpg

    Before gluing the last layer, the whole hull was covered with wood glue, which made it stiffer. I smoothed the whole with sandpaper and started gluing the last layer. Each strip is two boards with a dividing line marked with a blunt needle.

    1686324256_poszr01.thumb.jpg.e7d2bee05e3f7900d9e7834afdb9373e.jpg

    693384570_poszr07.thumb.jpg.e42d591c0920c07300cf8676442a4ecd.jpg

    Visible white gaps will be covered with wales, so it will look OK.

    539654140_poszr05.thumb.jpg.1bbbe31a5ec2b9fb1428575f2a298c4a.jpg

    Best

    Tomek

     

  4. 1 hour ago, Richmond said:

    Tomek,

     

    When you state you only glue the edges did you mean both the horizontal and vertical edges of the frames, rather than gluing the whole face of the first planking?

     

    Richmond

     

     

    Sorry for my English, it is not perfect so... on the picture below you can see what I meant "the 1-st and 2-nd layers" and "frames". I put on glue only where green lines are. Then I apply glue on the whole face of the final planks (3-rd layer).

     

    Regards

    Tomek

    1st and 2nd layers.jpg

  5. Dowmer,

    Thank you for appreciating.

    SAILS. I think, that in 1:100 scale any sewing is far out of scale, so I use only transparent glue (for wood for example Pattex). The material is batiste. I soak a part of it with glue and when it is dry I cut of long stripes. I glue them on the sketch of a sail. Then I cut out the sail and glue stripes on the other side. At the end I glue ropes and some cringles. Such sails are rather stiff (because of glue) but can be bent. Sometimes I use glue, water and hairdryer to give them the "windy" shape. Pictures below

     

    Regards

    Tomek

    ruch 01.jpg

    ruch 02.jpg

    32.jpg

  6. Greetings to all.

    My name is Tomek. For some time I have been working on my next card sail ship the British cutter HMS "Fly". I build my models only from paper and cardboard without painting (of course masts and rigging are made of wood and thread). I will honestly admit that "Fly" is my 20 cardboard model of a sailing ship so it looks much better than my first models from 15 years ago.

    The "step by step" how I design and build card sailing ships...

    1. Frames made of 1mm card. The model is really small (about 16 cm long)1992943593_szkielet04.jpg.b2868d3a62e8584fdb025b285c60e0a0.jpg

    2. The first layer to strengthen and stabilize the hull2096148747_poprzeczne04.thumb.jpg.282baaffb3e34ab21a652cd353bc738b.jpg 

    3. The second layer made of 0,5 mm card. The glue is applied only in places where the edges of the frame are located . Thanks to this the hull gets soft curves without visible "cow's ribs" ...1895396340_podne002.thumb.jpg.3cded37676e14d0b9cfe3c052a2dd3ce.jpg 

    4. Attaching the third final layer on a well-prepared hull is a pleasure.1428007581_kadub10.thumb.jpg.cb61ec88bc93b0eaa55085c9b9d4eeb7.jpg 

    5. The deck equipment and artillery

     312030506_hull15.thumb.jpg.1e892dbca1b858ab4a9ee2a217edd3d8.jpg

    6. The current stage - the mast and the bowsprit with standing rigging

    702.thumb.jpg.508865d1910345d186203619e7eb24db.jpg 

    Regards

    Tomek

    szkielet 03.jpg

    poprzeczne 05.jpg

    podłóżne 001.jpg

    kadłub05.jpg

    kadłub04.jpg

    711.jpg

    705.jpg

    704.jpg

    701.jpg

  7. Hi Chris,

     

    most of them were published by WAK, a Polish cardboard publisher:  Grosse Jacht, HMS "Badger", muleta de Seixal, trabaccolo, Allege d'Arles and the last one Viking boat "Gokstadskipet". I also had one kit in "Modelarstwo Okrętowe" - HMS "Speedy". As I'm a "paper" modeler, you can find some of my work on "paper" forums like "Papermodelers.com" as Seahorse.

     

    Regards

    Tomek

×
×
  • Create New...