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Peter G

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Everything posted by Peter G

  1. I have been figuring out a way to mount and secure the deadeyes to the tops. The bowsprit is the most difficult as the strops continue through the base of the top to be secured into the timber of the bowsprit itself. There are three deadeyes each side and these have to be mounted at the same height above the top level on both port and starboard sides. So, I have read a few ideas as to how different modellers have secured these. Some of the methods involved, using 0.7mm copper wire around the deadeye and then twisting so the twist can be mounted into a drilled hole. This method I did not like a
  2. Many thanks for the responses guys (Johnathon11. EJ, Michael (MD1200cs). Also many thanks to Michael for his input on the lathe. definately a better setup. Don't you find that the Dremel takes too much off in a small area along the length such that you find it difficult to result in a smoothly tapered length? I must say however, your result looks excellent. By the way Michael, I was reading your blog the other day about how you got your alias - From the early computer model. We must be a similar age!! To the other responders, this link and the advancements in VR will b
  3. I'm excited!!! Came across a breakthrough website today. A little of the background..... A few posts ago, Maarten sent me some photographs of the Helmsman's cabin/loft forehead of the Great Cabin. This was excellent for showing me the 'slits' through which the helmsman received orders and could see to steer the ship. I was however a little curious as to what the helmsman would actually see, so I did a Google search on the topic and came across the most awesome website describing the work being done by Håkan Thorén who has been working for the Vasa museum in Stockholm for about two years.
  4. Many thanks Johnathon and E.J. Always appreciate the comments.... I am commencing work on the spars, masts and bowsprit etc. With the tops finished, this is the next logical stage. I thought I would start with the bowsprit and the steps to be followed are: 1. Identify the timber (quite an exercise as there are a number of diameters, lengths and timber types for the 3 masts, mast sections and spars plus bowsprit). 2. Take the bowsprit timber and shape it to have a taper as instructed. I used a small lathe I have to do this. It was cheap and I have transferred the motor drive
  5. Next item on the agenda, the tops. The tops as provided in the Billing Boats kit come in three sizes - large for mainmast lower, medium for foremast lower and four identical small tops for higher main, fore and mizzen locations. These are provided as plywood laser cutouts including a series of 'rings' which are layered one on top of another to build the required height and with increasing diameters to give the size increase with height. The uppermost, half rings are particularly thin and narrow and subject to breaking if mishandled. I found that when I stacked the required three ring
  6. Hi Wiktor. I like your planking. You are taking time and when you think it could be better, you are correcting it (eg the stealers at the bow). The planking is hard to get right. It is made easier by double planking but it it still hard. Pictures of the actual ship help immensely. There are lots out there and a few of us have some we can provide as well. I also agree with you regarding the planking colour and the suggested painting in the Instruction manual. I MUCH prefer to see the stained product which you are using, as it shows the wood grain and the beauty of the timber. It is
  7. A request from site users: Once an image has been uploaded, how can you rotate it? I have loaded some images which appear correctly oriented on my computer, but when displayed on the page being edited, the import rotates the picture 90 degrees. Can you rotate an image? Regards, Peter G.
  8. Many thanks Maarten. I look forward to your getting back to me. Happy travels... Within the Billing Boat kits, there are the required blocks for the rigging. In preparation for doing the rigging, I thought I would check these, especially as I have seen a number of builders purchase third-party blocks to improve the rigging appearance on their models. In the kit there are: - 180 Single block 5mm - 20 Double block 5mm - 14 Single block 7mm - 13 Double block 7mm Total of 227 blocks. In addition, there are some blocks which are like 'heart' blocks or multiple strand block
  9. I am at the stage where I am preparing for masts and rigging. I am doing a bit of background research and reviewing the Billing rigging plans and those issued by Vasamuseet (many thanks to David Teel who provided me with these!!). I have also been examining the PDF build instructions for the De Agostini Vasa. While this is not my build kit, it does offer some ideas on the way forward in the rigging. For example, once the masts are available, the Build Instructions for PDF No. 12 provides information on setting out the rigging attachments of the foremast, main mast and mizzen where inboard brac
  10. A couple of additional topside jobs before getting to the rigging (is there an end to these jobs???), I need to add the anchor poles to the bow, plus I need to make the capstan. The anchor pole(s) I noticed from other builds, is usually only an anchor pole (singular). The topsides have two square holes on each side of the bow railings for these poles, but usually only one pole was deployed. They are removable and can be put on either side of the ship depending on the side that anchoring was to be used. The pole extends from near the centreline of the ship and is secured by some rop
  11. Where too next? There are 82 cannon port doors which have to be modified and constructed. Oh goody, some repeat operations. Billing Boat's supply two kit part sets for the cannon doors. These are a plastic surround set for each gun opening through the hull and a second plastic set of doors, complete with the ornamentation of a lion's head molded into the surface of the door. Right back in an early post where I was planking and cutting in the gun port openings, when planking was completed, I lined each gun port with four small pieces of Obechi strip to line the inside and make the port out
  12. I added the 'cat' posts to support the pulleys for the weighing of the anchors on the port and starboard sides of the ship's bow. These are mounted directly to the deck and go through and under the front railing. They had to be cut into the shape of the lower rail of the railing but this is easily done by some filing and a sharp blade. The outer ends of the posts have two pulleys with a common axle and the ends of the axles are terminated by 'steel' cover plates (made using black paper and glue). The inner ends of the posts (which were shaped as per the Billing instructions) to grade down in s
  13. Michael, My apologies for not having responded on your comments about Vasa’s cannons. Many builders have discussed the various aspects of the Vasa’s cannons at length (including yourself, Nazgul, Mark3l and others). My treatment of the cannons is not as good as I would have liked, and I may revisit them, but at this stage, they don’t look too bad, and I will move on to other areas of the build first. Regards, Petet G.
  14. I thought it might be time to attempt the chainplates along the flanks of the ship. It is interesting when reviewing pictures of the real Vasa, that two things stand out: 1. The positioning of the mix of chainplate positions for the deadeyes AND brace pulleys is located such as to allow a minimal, but clear view from the various gunports and cannons to fire clearly through the lines. The clearances are not large, but enough to allow a clear shot to pass through where no offset or angle of shooting is used (which would have been the norm). Additionally, in some instances, particularly wher
  15. On deck, some of the furniture has to be done... Firstly, the knightheads. In total there are seven knightheads, used on the Vasa for belaying and running ropes where tension, even back to the capstan may be required. Each knighthead has one, two or four pulleys mounted within its square or block lower portion and then above this is a carved head. These heads on Vasa were of the heads of Roman soldiers, some attractive damsels, or a dark, swarthy gentlemen with a turban. Photos of some of these are shown below: Notice in the photo directly above, that there are fou
  16. And so we move to the deck and topside fittings. In particular, the cannons. A lot has been provided in other build logs about the cannons for the Vasa. Their design was of bronze with ornamentation and relatively conventional trucks as below: The cannons provided by Billing Boats are of four types: a) The truncated barrels only for the below deck installations. These have been accounted for by 'artificial' gun carriages installed during planking of the hull. I have not placed them in the ship yet, but their positions have been drilled and are ready for fitting. The gun
  17. Many thanks for your encouragement EJ_L, Jonathon and Martyn!! Martyn, The mouldings of the De'Agostini Vasa for the clinker gallery planking, I'm sure would paint well and with the raised scalloping would give a great finish. There are going to be some beautiful Vasa models about with the completion of their models by De'Agostini. Have all the mailings, been completed yet? I know that these mailouts were progressive and not all released in some countries until later, so has anyone received the entire kit at this time? If not, when would the kit part mailouts be complet
  18. With the bow advanced, I then went on to adding the gold lion at the prow of the ship. In the Billing kit, this is provided with two plastic, scaled lion halves (which fitted around and sat on the timbers at the prow as an extension of the beak. The detail of this was not too bad, but the shape of the head left a lot to be desired. Similarly, there is a long lion's tail which extends from the starboard side body of the lion to lie adjacent the timbers on that side, but on the portside, there is no such tail extension, which looks really odd. So, to overcome the tail issue, I carved a tail exte
  19. Moving from the stern to the bow, the beak was reasonably provided for in the Billing Boats kit and needed little addition of timbers to improve what is required. Alignment of the beak is critical and I got this a little wrong, but not a major problem. I only noticed this when I applied the upper plywood sheets that were a little tight on the starboard, but left a small gap on the portside. A bit of judicious pressure brought the beak back into line. In the above picture you will note that I have left out the enclosing timbers where the lashings of the bowsprit are passed down to th
  20. David, She is looking really impressive. Your second planking gives the ship a lovely finish - When I built the Cutty Sark many years ago (using a Billing Boats kit, with single planking), I remember that after doing all that planking and finishing, to cover the lower portion with coppering seemed somewhat sacriligious, but then that is how the ship was/is and how Longridge did it in his book. Of course above this too, to the topsides the hull was black and again, this hides a lot of the very beautiful timber appearance of the model. Is there an alternative? - Only if you don't wan
  21. With considerable time and much painting, I have completed both the starboard and port side galleries and their artwork. The painting has taken the majority of the time but the shaping had to be carefully done so as not to melt or destroy the plastic figures. In the end, only a couple of retrievable disasters. The port quarter of the ship and the gallery artwork is shown in the picture below: Some of the finer detail on some of the figures will need adjustment a little later as I am not happy with some of the beards on the faces in particular, and the eyes in some figures too, are a
  22. The galleries and topsides are now completed to a point where I can start dealing with the artwork/sculptures and their shaping and painting. There are two stages to adding the sculptures for the Billing Boat kit-supplied figures. Stage 1: Shaping Billing Boats supply brown, dense plastic mouldings of the various carved figurines. These had to be shaped to conform with the various curved surfaces they needed to be fitted onto (especially in the case of the galleries). In other locations (eg bow section, the Roman figures are applied without shaping, only fitting). After a number of t
  23. Many thanks Patrick and Martyn. Lovely comments and much appreciated. To add my scalloping was a chore and took a long time!! I did not realise that the De'Agostini Vasa had raised scalloping. This would have made my job infinitely easier!! It would also make the linework finer and better defined. Thinking about it however, does that mean that the scalloped surfaces are moulded, and therefore plastic? I guess its hard to tell on the finished product, but the clinker timber planking used on the Billing Boat's kits gives a nice texture replicating the original ship well. I will have
  24. Many thanks Johnathon. The red and yellow were always going to contrast strongly. When the artwork is added, the contrast will be broken up a bit. To take a break from the stern and galleries, I turned my attention to the hold gratings. Billing Boats supplied these in the kit as laser-cut plywood. The ply was a relatively light brown which was not similar to the decking or darker mahogany timbers I have used, so I did a bit of experimenting with a mahogany stain and came up with a good wash (water based), which I then applied to the various gratings. These gratings were cut from th
  25. The individual turrets have been shaped and I am happy with their position, angles and clearance for the brass ornaments at the top. I had to cut the tops of two of the turrets slightly to reduce their height a little bit to make them fit correctly. You also have to cut into the topside clinker planking against the hull to allow the turret to sit against the side of the ship in their correct position. Initially, the sides of the turrets were shaped to sit correctly and fit against the ship (as described above) and then each turret had to have clinker planking covering it. The joins for ed
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