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Heinrich der Seefahrer

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About Heinrich der Seefahrer

  • Birthday 02/25/1970

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Berlin/Germany
  • Interests
    French baroque war- & pleasure ships, history, books,
    "I'm a trend-free and TV-abstinend person."

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  1. Hy Marc, thanks for your kind and frank answer. And that is exactly what I do fear at all: losing the fun as spin of this project and running into the barbed wirded labyrinths of a Sysiphosian work of repairing the new problems caused repaired faults of the kit. Okay lets summarice: A.) So I'll relacate the gunports that were completly out of place - that isn't the work making you get too grumpy from. This as it will happen unter the new planking at all. B.) Relocating the masts is also a point not to be neglected - I still think about not to install any masts due to the amount of daylight shining through the gratings, staircases and mastholes into the 24pdrs MD lightening some detail. On the other hand the white painted masts do have some nice effect onto the decks appearance at all. And the bowsprit does work together with the flagmast aft. C.) Detailling what can really be seen at the very end. D.) Scratchbuild in a diffident way transom, galion, lids, staircases and gratings to multiplicate the detailing after Art.C.) and try to keep timesafing use of resin in mind. Hope this five articels will be some rough guideline to me.
  2. As the sales-camel always talks first... I personally asked her due a question about what could I place into my pictures instead of some boring ©-sign and name. So she looked on my avatar and started to smile. Than she collected some black pipecleaners and other stuff left by the children, building my shipscat while I was drawing at my stand. That's my story... what do you think?
  3. Hello modelshipbuilders! I posted these sentences at the FBgroup Grumpy old scale modelers as it seems in there wife often dislike our hobby as some timeconsuming nonsence far away from their orcus. So let us start to involve your partners into the decisions you make. Ask her and find out what she really thinks about it. Typically these girls all know the differences between a light greyish green and a too greenish grey in any question about clothing. So catch their sensetive side and win a critical consultant. Than modelbuilding isn't any longer a boring timeconsumer to her - keep in asking for her opinion. Questions do span a bridge about the canyon of misunderstanding. Take care.
  4. This evening I walked to my favorite copyshop and sized the 1/144 bookprints towards 1/92 so the now do fit to the Heller kit. My very first look was towards the transom-ic source of trouble. But it looks quite nice -the stern post seems to be in the right high.But the wales need to be lifted - the lower end of the lowe wale of the kits hull has to be moved upwards so it rests at its upper wales upper end . I did this test with the cutted in twice and centerboard slice added transom of the Heller kit. But the breadth of the transom looks right!!!
  5. Yes airbrushing has got its disadvantages you can buy canned pressure air or use a care tire. The red inside of the hull and gunportlids will be airbrushed easier and much more comfortable by "gun" than by brush. Due to the less good coating of red colours in general. Wow that wooden hull looks greatly "woody" - did you paint the UD with the same mixture of colour, too? (I'm always affraid of differences in the colours shades.)
  6. LIDs Ideas for detailing a bit ...and as I figured out recently a very good trail for the cutting area of the gun port lids, that can be seen. Three to four planks and/or wales and two view-able cuts at every lid makes a huge amount of handcrafted work! I had till now never realised that the lits are really sawn out ot the real plank and wales surface and again reassembled in order to disappear. So every lid will make a real single stand alone kit of a minimum of 50 separated parts to be glued together - mainnumber the fouredged nails on the inside. to make it in a more economicaliy way the lids inside will me made from a single resinpice. But the outside must be from the original material due to continuation of the sanded on grain.
  7. Let us keep calm and transform plastic into wood! The hole stand straight out of the kits bag. It realy needs an Ivar shelf board of 800x300mm to bear the stand. Asvthere will be two furthermore kits to be bashed it's worth yhe work - I do hope. In the manual there are written 4 screws to be needed to fix the stand - and after 40 + X years Heller wasn't able to lectorate their handout a bit!' But it looks so much after plastic that this stand'll win any ugliest-part-of-any-kit-contest easily! ...so I took 2h of time, some 120 and 80 grain sandpaper and a knife to transform the plastic glossy surface into wood. This isn't finished it is just a trial. Due to turn my mind away from the kits troubles.
  8. No... it is really rises from gunport aft side to the stern - the #¢^^ deadwood... ...that lousy trick saves a huge amount of money for the casting moulds inner part forming the inside of the hull... @Hubac's Historian Stay happy to build a WLmodel!
  9. PHy Marc, you asked for the "rise of the deadwood" And if you compare the drawing with the Heller hulls rise of the deadwool the arc of the rise is much higher than this long run on the kit! 😱With its end at the sixth LD gunport - where as the drawing of SAINT PHILIPPE says: "Ending of the deadwood is at gunport N° 3 (three)!" ...as I do hope to understand you question the right way.
  10. Our most beloved part of the hobby: sanding the hull... I'll have to fill the gap between middleboard and hull... The connection between plastic hull and plywooden centerboard will be additivly done by some larger Evergreen L-porfils that take some of the stress of the wight. I'm absutly umhappy with these stem base but I have to sand it this week and then the plastic stem will be rested on some nails driven carefully in predrilled holes. And it is a large hull of 572mm without UDs hanging over measurement. I'm not clear how to build the upperdecks hull sides? They are very different from the kits given parts. Glueing them on now or desperately adding them separately? Best will be to ask the " good ghost of the bottle" @Hubac's Historian Hy Marc, what did you install to give more strength to the flimsy lightblue upperdeck sides so you could work with them? As far as I understood you did all the UD carftmans work before adding onto the hull?
  11. Little steps foreward - not really to be called "progress"... ...butthbutthe light grey makes it easier to see the differences and work may get more precise. All in all no great deal today - but plank to plank a ship is build.
  12. Thanks Marc, this is very helpful! That will safe a plenty of money. The shipcat is still on work on easter monday. The foamblock is cut on the UD - level and into bulkheads. Now they are ready to be cut into 1/2-bulkheads so I can use them as pattern. To redraw the outline and cut the paper is easier than cutting the foambock itself in a precious half. The work on the hull is going on from the lowest gundecks level, too. I think Marc @Hubac's Historian and @EJ_L are right - there is not a plenty to see in the darkness of the lowest deck - but then more and more light will come through the grits in the 24-pdr deck. Now I am going to cut a out the h 1/2bulkheads and then I'll look at how Betadave made the joining from wood to plastic exactly. (For the next big step I have to find some solution for the decks planking, better carriages training myself for the 12-pdr deck, the 36-pounder barrels have to be made and detailed. "Music of the future" as wie call it in Germany.)
  13. That looks great - here the original that caused the wreckage some yards later. From Albert Cook Church's book WHALE SHIPS AND WHALING (Newyork, 1938).

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