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Heinrich der Seefahrer

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About Heinrich der Seefahrer

  • Birthday 02/25/1970

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Berlin/Germany
  • Interests
    French baroque war- & pleasure ships, history, books,
    "I'm a trend-free and TV-abstinend person."

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  1. Thanks Jan, the giftpaper is a good idea!!! Shrouds and ratlines may be made from scratch - but this is not shure at the moment. I may build some half scratch solution shrouds and deadeyzs from the kit - all the ratlines from scratch. As the do not look very nice and detailled!
  2. Next ten steps to the hull und rigging (standing and running): The hull: I. pointing (not drilling through the hull) holes for the dowels, bolts and nails in 0,2mm and 0,4mm II. painting the "holes" in iron and darker wooden brown III. shadowing the red parts by inking them (topside darker red ink downside darkbrown) IV.a painting (Citardell Khrone red) the dreckspart's rest IV.b Adding the aft lamp from the Heller SOLEIL ROYAL kit on a bent lampbase V. Citardel Gold colours and inks for the decoration and ornamentation Prepare the rigging: Consulting the Ab Hoven's HEERMKRECK drawings!!! VI.a Glueing the masts and yards ready without rigging VI.b painting them with tanned sails VII. Testfit the masts deciding about the stays (without any staysails) VIII. Adding the running rigging to the masts and yards - (wait for the ordered blocks and lines!) IX. Drilling holes in the stem due to fix the bowsprit X. fixing the decksparts remember the stress of the running rigging! (Do not forget to ink them carfully before belaying) Hello specialists!!! Did I foreget anything?
  3. For the superstructure I use Citardel Khorne Red and here the last pictures of the day: the light is horribly but as it is 10 o'clock there is no sunlight any more.
  4. First coluring wood imitation and first redbrown (Tamiya Hull Red). Port side Starboard side Transom (upside down) The gap at the underwater part of the hull will be closed also the gunports will ne opened.
  5. First and second layer of paint rough as I only can do it: The light Sand colour is Vallejo "Pale Sand"; the darker brown is Revell Aqua "Dark Earth". That's it for tonight!
  6. Nothing very spectacular only a simple children's collier... The first step is done... Only a simple row of balls alled by some cheap childrens glas bread - glued by CA and filled with a drop of CAglue to fill the drill hole. Some were used as hand knob on the bulkwalk, some to "artificete" the back deck. the galion has also been refined by some glas bread. The clinker wood is usually the side cut of a tree - without bark but the cheapest wood. Here from Werner Jäger "Der kurische Reisekahn MARIA" (The Curonian travelling barge MARIA - a baltic sea merachand barge for open sea and canal use s.t. horse drawn) the clinker of the night house. And here what it looked like - the irregularities of the wood isn't as strong that you can see them... so everything is okay with the kit - I didn't have to change it again. Now the glue has to have time to dry so I can spray the last layer of primer to the hull. After this the upper parts are toairbrushed be airbrushed in Revell 88 Ocker and the decoration in gold. The rest is dry brushing and ink - without painting the bulkwalk red and adding some symbol on the gunport lids inner sinking dots to hide them.
  7. Hello friends, the website www.scalemates.com shows the development of nearly all plastic kits availible all over the world. So you can get some idea if the kit you want to buy is available under some other companies badge in a new box. By this you open the basket und you can see what dug is sitting inside - besides the loud box arts soundings. But often the kit is the very same - only the price differs massively. So I was able to caught my USS CONSTITUTION much cheaper as I bought the USS UNITED STATES kit! Paying not $ 100 - I payed $ 42. The difference in the kits are a changed transom and a two tier sidegalleries. As both will be rebuild at all there wasn't any reason not to buy the cheaper kit. Same with the Heller PREUSSEN clipper - if you want the full five masted ship you pay $100 - if you buy the CAP HORN you pay $30 less - by copying the fockmast once you can exchange the wrong mizzen mast and you get again a PREUSSEN. The saved money is easily spended in a good PREUSSEN set of plans for $20, detailings and paint... but you know how it runs usually.
  8. Due to the hot weather I only cut the roof parts out of a stripe of 2mm balsa wood - nothing else - without drinking cold water.
  9. This morning only some primer was added - little steps foreward make a walk. Next step: side galleries roof has to be rounded by adding some sanded balsa wood pices and little pearls in a row to give a more baroque impression. Memo to myself: Do not forget the prominent nailing marks to add.
  10. Both my projects (and the L'AURORE scaled down hull plan )... side by side for the photo shooting...
  11. Great research you did, Marc! Very very helpfull to all of us here - thanks for sharing! The joining of transom and QG is the real test of concept. Why not some trial-/dry fit in paper and cardboard? P.S.: When I train the words K_eep I_t S_hort & S_miple everyday in the office for calls - why not using it here also for trials?
  12. Ahaaa another TITANIC... as a commission build it is always a question of time and money put in and pecuniary output on the other end. A too good dony model tends to give "black zero" as our managers tell us. Solokking foreward to your progress.
  13. Hello, here the result with the goods and malus... And the added parts on the hulls outside. And the clinkered bulkheads And what didn't work are the on both sides gaps at the back deck and the inner transom. The "shortcomings" of the deck. I want to close these gaps this night - I hope my technique of CA-glue to fix and plasticglue to weld the plastic parts. and the backdecks entrance - without any stairs towards the deck and the foremast.
  14. Hy Marc, that is the same obstacle to the buildings progress I rushed into, too. The problem I look onto is that we habe got on the QG yhe mid window that is 1:1 but the stemside windows and parts must be shorter in the drawing than they reakky were - due to perspective. So I binned the drawings I made and are strting to redo them by the use of a pair of campasses to take the real length from the top view. And take it into a side view so there we have got an "unrolled lateral surface" (pink in the drawing). That does not look very nice but is right. Hth - being in a hurry.

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