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Blackie

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Everything posted by Blackie

  1. Hi Vytis Thanks for the comments. I started the Harvey model about 2000/2001 but as I have said it took quite a while because of other commitments. I built the hull first up to the deck just as the kit detailed and then it sat under a dust sheet for a long time. Then over more time, I started to do some research into Baltimore Schooners. No doubt you know that there never was a "Harvey" so I decided to use it to make my version of a Baltimore Schooner. But by then I had a hull and I decided to stick with it - it had taken a lot of work to get that far! As I researched I read books, looked at photos and then drew my own plans for the deck layout and the rigging. I probably used most, Howard Irving Chapelle The Baltimore Clipper 1965 and Lennarth Petersson Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft 2007. These and other books have line drawings with dimensions for the BS craft. The books, especially Chapelle state that the BS craft all varied in dimensions but generally they grew out of the Royal Navy schooners which were "shortish" at 75' to 80', then American built in 1812 to 1820 at about 95' to 100' and then later they became longer when they began in the slave trade. No doubt other members will contradict me but the above is taken form a very quick reread of Chapelle. Those dimensions are the deck length so as the Harvey model is about 610mm on the deck it equates to 100' (30.5m) which is OK for my model which I claim is about 1812. Looking back there are some things I would change but it is completed after many years and other projects beckon. Perhaps you need to settle on a period that your model will represent and can you get copies of the above books? Cheers Blackie PS feel free to contact me anytime
  2. Hi Genco It's been a while since I was in this website so I'll attach the instructions here. If you don't get them please send me an email address. Later I'll try and post them onto my build blog again. Also. it's been quite a few years since I built my Harvey but I see that I have scribbled a lot of notes on the instruction pages - I hope you can read them. I only used the kit up to the hull and decking. After that I did my own research and drew my own drawings of the spars and rigging which I built from scratch. Yell out if I can help. Regards Blackie Harvey Instructions.pdf
  3. Hi Mark Keep up the good work. It will be worth it when you have her completed and sitting up all beautiful. It took me years to finish my Jenny Belle (AL Harvey) after I abandoned the kit after completion of the hull. In the end I think it all worked out quite good. Cheers Blackie
  4. The website no longer sends me notifications so probably won't be back so this is likely my final post as the model is near as complete except for a few rope coils and mounting it somehow. I have attached a few quick shots if anyone is still interested. This modified version of the Harvey has taken me years because of work and other commitments but I am happy with it in its final Baltimore Schooner form. Probably a few errors in history but I'm not changing it now. Hooroo Blackie
  5. Thanks Mark Yes I did forget the scale rule, so for anyone interested the following will help: The model is 1000mm overall length by 710 high from keel to main topmast truck. The hull is 660 long plus 240 for the bowsprit and jib boom and 100 extra for the main boom. Luckily I have place for it in my house when it is completed. I am nearly finished the gun rigging and then I can fit the yards which are completed.
  6. It's been some time since I added to my log. As you know, other hobbies, travel, etc get in the way. However, I have managed to rig foot ropes and stirrups to the jibboom, boom and the spread yard. I've also rigged halyards, downhauls and sheets to the fore staysail, inner jib and outer jib together with the appropriate blocks. I have also rigged brace and lift pendants to the yards which are almost ready to rig on the model. All of these are very difficult to photograph so I've included some poor photos of two guns that I have almost rigged. I have decided to rig the starboard side with guns seized up for sailing and those on the starboard side ready for firing or just fired.
  7. Hi Brian Very nice work so far with the AVS build. With my Harvey Baltimore schooner I cut a few scuppers into the waterways and always meant to go back to do more. I never got around to it and proceeded on so probably too late now. On one of my other builds I have 17 scupper openings down each side. I see from your recent haul that you have Mondfeld's Historic Ship Models book so I suggest you look at pp138/139 which shows something about this topic. I am with you that the scuppers were cut into the waterways to eliminate the problem of the deck retaining water. Blackie
  8. Slow and steady, but I have finally fitted the boat to the stern davits. The photos are a bit rough but show the work as it progressed. The gripes are made from an old handkerchief which the boss surrendered. It was stained in cold tea and rinsed in diluted PVA glue. After drying I cut some 2mm wide strips which were still reasonably flexible and added some brass rings to tie them to eye bolts in the stern rail. There is a gripe rail with padding between the boat and the transom but the photo of that was out of focus. The gripe rail is required to keep the boat off the rudder pendants and to pull the gripes against, same as for boats fitted to davits along the bulwarks.
  9. Help please. I was about to start rigging my longboat which is hung from davits over the Harvey's stern when I began to question my proposed rigging. I propose to use hooked double blocks with falls up through the davits and hooked onto eyebolts within the boat. This is the usual rigging for boats later in the 19th century, say steel baques, schooners, etc. Does anyone have an opinion on the size of the blocks and diameter of the falls for an early 19th C timber Baltimore schooner? The boat will require some gripes to stop it swinging and banging into the transom so I was also proposing to fit some type of gripes and gripe rail. Mondfeld's Historic Ship Models has the info shown on the sketch but it has no rail. In my case I have rudder pendents which might foul the rail and gripes. Any comments on gripe layout?
  10. I have rigged the boom, main sheet, topping lifts but can't take a photo of it just yet. I thought that I had settled on a main sheet/block arrangement but found that when I rigged it the blocks clashed with the top of the rudder stock. Then I decided on another arrangement and cut off one of the blocks and moved the second one towards the outer end of the boom. Big lesson here - never remove something until you really, really must! I redid the main sheet and realised that while I would change the direction of the sheet through the blocks, I needed to original configuration even if they had to be shifted aft. So I remade the cut strop and refitted it which meant removing the boom from the mast and all of the unnecessary messing about that went with it. I'll think longer before next time I think that I must change something. Anyway, to do something different I thought that I would make a few oars for the ship's boat. The first two were way too short but good practice. With the longer loom and shank I needed a longer slot to take the blade and it was beyond me to do it by hand past about 6-7mm length used on the shorter versions. My blade in the electric saw cuts a wide slot which in the 2mm shank is too wide and leaves little of the narrow shank to fit either side of the blade. I then decided that as the oars would all be fitted flat onto the boat's thwarts I needed only one side of the shank and have proceeded with that Idea. The part finished oars are shown. I'll probably only fit 6 oars into the finished boat so can choose the best of the lot.
  11. Hi Brian For a first time timber model you seem to have got the hang of it very well. From my own experience I would hold off glue fixing the deck houses etc until you have the masts i and set to the angle that you want. I have found that I am only now beginning to fit the deck furniture after the masts, shrouds, gaffs and boom. It has been a lot easier to tie the ratlines to the shrouds without the yards getting in the way. I guess that you will find the best way to suit you but start with the masts and take it from there as everything from here on is built up to and around them. Good luck Blackie
  12. Brian You really are getting into this model. I think that part of your problem with the rudder is that the hinges are way too big for the job. Anyway they are on and look OK. The bits that you are calling davits are catheads and the attached image shows you why and how the anchor tackle works. You will find lots of info online about these beams which come in a multitude of shapes and sizes. You will see them on my log. Blackie
  13. Brian, you could try acetone though I'm not sure what that will do to the timber or the metal. Before you do that, I strongly suggest that you do some research online and practice on some scrap. The Zap brand make a "CA debonder". It softens the glue but I haven't used it so do not know if it will come off completely. Blackie
  14. Hi Brian Wow, you really have got on with the job! Well done and don't worry about the mistakes. That's what a first model is about as we all learn every time we do something. Also, you now have this fabulous website as a resource for the next models. I've taken years to get through some of my models reading lots of books on the way. However, one book that you might find useful re the shaping and installation of timber planking is "Planking Techniques for Model Ship Builders" by Donald Dressel. I assume that you will still find a copy as my version is a 1988 edition. As for the number of pictures, I'd say the more the better. Cheers Blackie
  15. Time to update the log after a small amount of work. I am slowly working on the rigging and starting on the deck fittings as shown in the attached. Rigging is not yet trimmed or fixed for the last time as I might need to rejig it just to get in something else such as braces for the yards yet to be fitted.
  16. Sorry to be out of the loop but I am travelling with limited access to wifi. Bdr, I agree with Floyd that it is great gun rigging but also query if a BC had that type of gun. perhaps you are not making a BC. I also thing that you should start your own log as you are likely to be going much faster that I am just now, I'll be I touch in a few weeks. Blackie
  17. Floyd The spray putty is available here at the auto parts shops for about $10. It looks and works like a large can of insect spray. The one that I am using goes on easily with a few passes to cover the hull - try not to go over the area already done and it takes about 4/5 minutes to dry before you do another coat. The extra coat is only if you can still see some dents which show up easily just like your primer coat shows them. In theory the can says to allow about 4 hours before you sand but I have found that after say 1/2 hour you can give it a light sand to see if you will need any more coats. The instructions on your can will give you guidance. Blackie
  18. Hi Floyd It's good to hear from you. In my other life as a volunteer modeller for a small maritime museum I am making a small model of an old harbour pilot boat. The hull is shaped from two solid halves built up from MDF board and is about 500mm long. I found that wood filler works well for largish dents but another modeller recommended using automotive spray putty for the small imperfections. Over the last week I have been using the putty and it has been really good though I'm not sure how it would handle flexing planks if that problem is still occurring. The putty sands very easily with first 400 then 800 grit for a very smooth finish ready for painting. The other modeller has used the putty with excellent results for painted hulls just like yours. Blackie
  19. I have found the drawing files and have reduced them to below 2Mb (from 5.5Mb originals). I hope they are readable. I will post the written instruction sheets asap. The originals are 1:50 scale at B1 (1000 x 707) print size. Blackie HarveySheet1.pdfHarveySheet2.pdfHarveySheet3.pdfHarveySheet4.pdfHarveySheet5.pdfHarveySheet6.pdf
  20. It's slow progress here and in between rigging the mainmast I am doing the ratlines on the foremast. A word of advice if you will permit me: tie the ratlines BEFORE you tighten the backstays and especially those high up BEFORE you rig the futtock shrouds for the topmast shrouds. I can still loosen off the backstays to give me space but too late to remove or loosen the futtock shrouds. It's still doable but it would be a lot easier to get in earlier. Blackie
  21. Thanks Mark That sounds like a good idea. I was worried that hinges just wouldn't work in the low bulwark on the BC. I think I know what you mean but a sketch of the inboard planks would help if possible. Blackie
  22. I need some advice please. As I worked on this kit bash, I added an extra gun port forward of the foremast but will still add only the original 8 guns. I am finally getting to the original 2 stern gun ports and have decided to infill them with gun port lids rather than leave them open. I had first thought to just fit the lid with no hinges but am now thinking that perhaps I should add some hinges. I do NOT intend to fit lids to the other 8 gun ports. My model will be rigged without sails but I'm thinking of fitting the guns in different positions such as run out, run in and secured against the bulwark.
  23. Thanks Mark, I agree about the scale rule which I will try and remember in the future. Yes it is a large model and I also am a little concerned about where it will go when finished. I had thought about a space on top of some shelves but the 11' ceiling is still too low! You will notice that some of my rigging has varied from that shown in my sketches. Floyd, as you know I have made most of the deck furniture but thought that it would be easier to rig without it getting in the way. It certainly seems easier to fit pin rails along the bulwark rails as I needed them when rigging the shrouds and stays without the deckhouses being in the way. I am now tightening up the shrouds and stays and then I must make the fife rail for the main mast. Then I can continue to rig the boom, gaff and yards. Blackie
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