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Posts posted by gleason

  1. I had forgotten many old kits had raised detail, so yes, no washes. Although, you may want to sand around the deck furniture to remove the raised grain effects on the deck "wood". It would go a ways towards making the plastic deck look like wood.


    I looked at the kit instructions for a railroad flat car I did a while back. Plastic was gray to start. Washed it in "Dawn" to remove mold release agents; paint sticks better to clean plastic.  I painted the plastic an enamel earthy/woody color - light tan. Let dry a day or so. No paint odor. Sanded the boards to remove maybe 25% of the tan paint. Dry brush - streak the boards - with a darker brown enamel. Let dry (no odor), maybe 30 minutes. Lightly sand again. Could add a black acrylic wash to bring out the caulking. Lightly steel wool the deck with 4 ought wool to even out color.

    any pics of your paint job??





  2. FYI:  after going through my hundreds of Niagara photos, I found the following:




    update to cannonball display:


    cannonball rack placements




    This is a snippet from an article written by Alfred S. Brownell entitled "A Model of the Brig Niagara"

    published in Volume 16 (pages 199-210) of the Nautical Research Journal

    which included a history and several photographs of his model of Niagara.


    I do not know if the article is still available.  Check with the folks at the

    Nautical Research Journal...



  3. I like your weathered paint-work.

    Any chance for us to see the recipe for it?





    I really don't have a recipe...


    I use a 1/2 inch brush and paint in one direction only. [ generally bow to stern ] 


    After the paint has dried, I use a a brush with soft brass bristles and go over the paint VERY lightly with the brush.

    How much you scrape off is a matter of personal choice.


     I Inherited the brush from my father who was a jeweler...

  4. post-297-0-98199700-1379039327_thumb.jpg

    The "binder clamps" I used are a copy of the clamps as pictured in the model manual. I will use them as long as I can, and then switch to pins.






    Lettering was hand painted:






    This is the last post I made of the original build on Mon Sep 17, 2012.


    The next set of postings will start from where I left off…


    Stay tuned…J

  5. This is a repost of a kit I originally started on Fri, Nov 26, 2010.  Needless to say it has been awhile since I worked on the kit.  I managed to find all the old postings/photos previously posted prior to the crash of MSW.


    I will post some highlights/photos of the ‘old’ build and then continue with ‘new’ rebuild section later


    Kit is well designed and the instructions in the manual are pretty straight forward which makes the assembly of the model assembly.


    The lumber is laser-cut, and there is a good supply of photo-etch materials included with the kit.


    For those interested, here is some additional kit info:

    - 27 sheets of laser cut basswood in various thickness

    - sheet of photo-etch brass for gingerbread trim, etc…

    - 5 sheets of plans showing and identifying each piece of cut wood

    - 1 plan sheet showing and identifying the photo-etch brass pieces



    - Instruction manual from Model Shipways Chaperon Kit

    - Original manual written by Robert E. Hunt

    - 6 part article “Building the Chaperon Sternwheeler Stern Packet – 1884”

    By Kurt Van Dahm

    Ships in Scale –

    Volume 20, issue numbers #5, #6

    Volume 21, issue numbers #1, #2, #3, #4


    I use no power tools except for a variable speed drill for shaping masts on tall ships.

    I use very basic tools and do everything by hand.


    The basic tools :

    -        wood rasp for rough shaping of wood.

    -        sanding sticks in various sizes, sanding sponges, tweezers, nippers, files, etc..

    -        pin vise with various drill bit sizes

    -        knives, scalpels, miter box

    -        squares, rulers, clamps

    -        Elmer’s Carpenter’s Wood Glue and super glue if needed


    Photos to follow...

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