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  1. Point, I would also appreciate it if you could show us in more detail how to reached this point. I'd love to see, in more detail, how you did the work in the Form workspace. Floyd, have a look at my Sultana build log (which I really do plan to get back to once the summer is over). I modeled the hull in Fusion 360, took cross-sections, and then laser-cut pieces from those. (My cross-sections were created using the Intersect operation, not any add-on. I'll have to see what Slicer can do.)
  2. Regarding the loop, I used cloth covered wire there. The hidden wire is why it holds its shape. (I should point out that a loop like that isn't how the line would be attached on an actual ship.)
  3. Sorry, but I'm not sure what "loops" you mean. Are you asking how the sails are attached to the gaffs?
  4. Uh oh. That means you'll inherit my mistakes too. 😀 I'm sure there are other minor problems, but the one that stands out is that I placed that block on the mainmast for the throat halyard too low. It limits how high the gaff can be raised. In the picture below, you can see that the two blocks (one on the gaff, one on the mast) are touching. The other issue that I remember isn't directly related to blocks but may affect your placement of them. If you follow the length in the plans, the foresail gaff is too long and will hit the mainmast no matter how you adjust the lines. I recommend that you cut it a little shorter than the plans show (testing it before you cut, of course). I'll post again if I remember any more issues.
  5. I've been a proud member since January 2018. 😁 You're doing great, Matt. Once you work around the rudder issue, all the most frustrating parts are behind you.
  6. Ships are living things that change over time. I am approaching a point where I'll have to make some decisions about what specific point in time I'll depict in my model. Here are two pictures of the Sultana. The top one is from the blog ship25bsa.smallsquareddesigns.com and was taken August 2003. The lower picture was taken by me in October 2018. The most obvious change is the black stripe painted between the planksheer and caprail. The nameplate at the bow was changed to match. The painted figurehead in the older picture is a rare sight. Nearly every other picture I've found has the figurehead solid white, and I plan to keep it that way. There are other minor changes (like the pintles and gudgeons I have pointed out), as well as other minor details not visible in these pictures. What do you think? Do you prefer the older look or the newer look? I think I'm leading toward the older version. Here's another comparison picture. Top is from the blog 829southdrive.blogspot.com November 2014 and the bottom is another of mine from October 2018. It's not obvious from the top picture, but the band between planksheer and caprail is painted black. However, the bow nameplate is still light. Note the light gammoning rope. The only other time I've seen it light is in pictures of the Sultana at launch. I'll be using black gammoning in my model. The big difference in these pictures is the change in the style of anchor.
  7. Clare's build log of the Independence can be found on his website.
  8. Brush. I thinned the paint a little, which is why it took several coats, but helped to keep the paint smooth. As long as my brush strokes followed the flow of the planks, they were nearly unnoticeable.
  9. Strips for the wales were bent, painted black, and glued into place. The contrast between the black wales and the light hull colors is striking.
  10. Artist acrylic, because that's what I had on hand. Naples Yellow from Liquitex was the closest match I could find for the yellow color of the hull.
  11. The hull was painted. Multiple coats were required for good coverage.
  12. A bad cold and a variety of obligations made me put the build on hold for a few weeks. The deck has been stained. In spite of lots of sanding, there was still enough glue to make the stain cover inconsistently. However, if you look at pictures I've posted of the deck earlier, there is some inconsistency due to weathering, so I'm not too upset. The bulwarks were added and painted red on the inside. Figuring out the right height for the bulwarks was a challenge. Six slots for the scuppers were added on each side of the main deck. I did not completely succeed in making them perfectly rectangular. Here's an image of the scuppers on the real ship.
  13. How does it look with the bowsprit dry-fitted? It seems to me that the bowsprit, more than the windlass, would limit the space to work.
  14. Trenails are done. Next step is to apply stain. What am I to do with all these tipless toothpicks? When someone spends 20 years building the Taj Mahal out of a million toothpicks, is this how it starts?

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