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  1. I've been a proud member since January 2018. 😁 You're doing great, Matt. Once you work around the rudder issue, all the most frustrating parts are behind you.
  2. Ships are living things that change over time. I am approaching a point where I'll have to make some decisions about what specific point in time I'll depict in my model. Here are two pictures of the Sultana. The top one is from the blog ship25bsa.smallsquareddesigns.com and was taken August 2003. The lower picture was taken by me in October 2018. The most obvious change is the black stripe painted between the planksheer and caprail. The nameplate at the bow was changed to match. The painted figurehead in the older picture is a rare sight. Nearly every other picture I've found has the figurehead solid white, and I plan to keep it that way. There are other minor changes (like the pintles and gudgeons I have pointed out), as well as other minor details not visible in these pictures. What do you think? Do you prefer the older look or the newer look? I think I'm leading toward the older version. Here's another comparison picture. Top is from the blog 829southdrive.blogspot.com November 2014 and the bottom is another of mine from October 2018. It's not obvious from the top picture, but the band between planksheer and caprail is painted black. However, the bow nameplate is still light. Note the light gammoning rope. The only other time I've seen it light is in pictures of the Sultana at launch. I'll be using black gammoning in my model. The big difference in these pictures is the change in the style of anchor.
  3. Clare's build log of the Independence can be found on his website.
  4. Brush. I thinned the paint a little, which is why it took several coats, but helped to keep the paint smooth. As long as my brush strokes followed the flow of the planks, they were nearly unnoticeable.
  5. Strips for the wales were bent, painted black, and glued into place. The contrast between the black wales and the light hull colors is striking.
  6. Artist acrylic, because that's what I had on hand. Naples Yellow from Liquitex was the closest match I could find for the yellow color of the hull.
  7. The hull was painted. Multiple coats were required for good coverage.
  8. A bad cold and a variety of obligations made me put the build on hold for a few weeks. The deck has been stained. In spite of lots of sanding, there was still enough glue to make the stain cover inconsistently. However, if you look at pictures I've posted of the deck earlier, there is some inconsistency due to weathering, so I'm not too upset. The bulwarks were added and painted red on the inside. Figuring out the right height for the bulwarks was a challenge. Six slots for the scuppers were added on each side of the main deck. I did not completely succeed in making them perfectly rectangular. Here's an image of the scuppers on the real ship.
  9. How does it look with the bowsprit dry-fitted? It seems to me that the bowsprit, more than the windlass, would limit the space to work.
  10. Trenails are done. Next step is to apply stain. What am I to do with all these tipless toothpicks? When someone spends 20 years building the Taj Mahal out of a million toothpicks, is this how it starts?
  11. I was hoping to find a less-tedious solution, but after further experiments, I have accepted that the toothpick method is the way to go. I used tape to define the location for the trenails. Holes were drilled along the line. The toothpicks are glued in. After drying, the toothpicks are chopped off and the surface is sanded down. Getting a straight line is a challenge.
  12. Have a look at this update in Blue Ensign's build log for Cheerful. I'm thinking of doing something similar. I'm currently experimenting with several methods, toothpicks included.
  13. Thank you all for following along. Here are some shots of the planking / caulking procedure. I first cut a length of strip to just larger than the required size, then slowly sand one end a little at a time until it fits perfectly. Then I cut a matching length of the plastic. Glue is applied and the strip is added as shown below, with a tiny space between the old and new strips. Then the plastic strip is put into place between the two deck planks. I start at one end, then run my finger down the length of the strip. After that, the deck plank is firmly pushed into place and excess glue is removed. And at last the deck planking is complete. One particular challenge was the hole for the rudder. This picture on the site ship25bsa.smallsquareddesigns.com was especially helpful in creating the detail of the hole. Next I need to decide how to handle coloring the deck and adding trenails.

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