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  1. That's my understanding too. The exact arrangement of sails at any particular time would depend on what the Captain (or, more accurately for a schooner, the Lieutenant) would feel appropriate for the conditions. Topmasts and topsails with their associated yards would be raised and used, or lowered and stored as needed.
  2. I'm no expert, but after some searching, I have found that the sail plan strongly resembles that of turn of the century racing yachts. Do some searches on America's Cup winners from the 1890's to 1920's and you see what I mean. The hull shape is completely wrong for a racing yacht, however.
  3. I have only one experience with adding water to a diorama, but I'll share my experience with you. I made this diorama of Kinkakuji, the Temple of the Golden Pavilion, a few years ago. The water is Woodland Scenics Realistic Water, tinted with acrylic paint. Realistic Water can only be poured in 1/8" layers, but it looks like Woodland Scenics has some newer products that can do deeper pours. I needed to do this one in several layers. There were bubbles, but I was able to pop them with a pin while wet, so they weren't a big problem. The biggest issue was how the water would creep up the terrain. You can see it in the picture below, how the water creeps up the island and the blue color has soaked into some of the scenery. It's also visible around all the edges in the picture above. I had to backfill some dirt materal on top to try to mitigate it, but it covers over any nice land to water transition I wanted. So, I encourage you to do some test pours with actual terrain like what you will use in your final display. I just did test pours into a paper cup with some gravel, which wasn't an adequate test. Anyway, for some great examples on making terrain and water features, I highly recommend Luke Towan's channel on Youtube, in particular the Realistic Scenery playlist. Good luck with your display!
  4. Not a historical example, but that's the way it is on the Sultana replica. Here is a picture on the Sultana Projects Flickr showing the ensign staff. Note that the staff is offset to starboard so that the boom can remain at the center line. When the mainsail is raised, the flag is moved to the gaff peak and the staff slides completely out of its holder.
  5. Point, when I laser cut parts for my Sultana, I didn't account for the kerf of the laser. As a consequence, there was a slight bit of wobble when I fit the bulkhead pieces into the false keel. If you plan to laser cut, keep that in mind. I later determined the kerf of the laser I used was .3 mm, but it may be different for you. For the caprail, if the curve is very slight, you could project the shape of the rail onto a plane and it may be close enough to use.
  6. Rob, how did you keep the staysails suspended horizontally instead of drooping down from gravity? How does the sheet remain taut? Is there hidden wire in there somewhere?
  7. I developed the figurehead in Blender, as I haven't been able to understand how to work in the sculpt environment in Fusion 360. The legs were relatively easy, just a matter of drawing the outline as they intersect with the plane of the ship's stem. Then I built the rounded form out. For the head and body, I used the reference images to find contours and borders. Working from those, it was a matter of building the form out, vertex by vertex, face by face. After several restarts, I ended up with the best shape I could. I included the shape of the ship's stem in the 3D environment, to confirm that the figurehead would work with the actual dimensions of the model. The final 3D printed part was so small that many of the details of the 3D model were lost. Oh well. I painted and glued on the pieces. It could be reasonably argued that using carved wood or clay or something else would have produced a better result, but I'm satisfied with my work here.
  8. Work on the details of the Sultana's hull is nearly complete. Soon I will be moving on to the masts, spars, and rigging. Here is what the Sultana looks like now. Actually, that's the real Sultana back in December, when her masts were removed for maintenance. The picture is from the video Winter Maintenance on SULTANA’s Masts. Here is what my Sultana looks like. Details that have been added include: Rope railing and white cover on the main hatch. I was originally planning to omit these details, but the hatch looked too plain as it was. Metal, oval-shaped mystery hatch at the bow, port side. Maybe for refueling? Box for storing propane gas at the bow, starboard side. Various eyebolts and cleats. Additional signage on the hatches and opposite the ladder. The next steps include understanding and planning out the rigging, and making the figurehead.
  9. Correct. Here is an image from the plans which includes the scale. It goes from 0 to 110 feet. I brought into in a graphics program (I use GIMP) and noted that the 0 mark is at X value 342 and the 100 mark is at X value 5342. 5342 - 342 = 5000 pixels from 0 to 100 feet. Therefore 5000 pixels / 100 feet = 50 pixels/foot. (Your result is likely not to be a nice whole number as in my example.)
  10. Are you talking about scaling and positioning plans into the Blender 3D environment? You might be thinking about my post below, where I show my method for doing that. (Note that I was using Blender 2.79, and some elements of the user interface are different in Blender 2.8.) If you are still unclear on the procedure, I'd be happy to go through it step by step with you here, perhaps using your plan files.
  11. Sure, most anything you can imagine can be designed and 3D printed, but with limitations. For masts and yards on a model, which can be very thin, 3D printed plastic parts will likely flex more than would be acceptable. So for that application, wood is superior. The level of detail possible with a 3D printer is also limited. That's not to say that 3D printing has no place in ship modeling, as you'll see if you browse through my Sultana build log.
  12. Here is my log of playing around with Blender. The first post shows how I imported plans into Blender and scaled them to the scene. I was using Blender 2.79. There are interface differences in Blender 2.8, but the procedure is basically the same, as illustrated in the video Denis posted above. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/20027-hull-modeling-with-blender/
  13. The pumps on the Sultana are quite beautiful, particularly in the long curve of the handles. Here is the initial 3D design. I 3D printed parts, painted them, and tried them out. They were good, but looked a little too tall. Also, the interesting transition from octagon to square at the bottom wasn't distinct enough. I revised my design and created a new set. The old version is on the left, new is on the right. The new pumps also have wire out the bottom to help hold them in place. Here are the pumps installed on the deck.

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