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  1. Right. The single thread at the beginning really just serves the purpose of holding the ropes together so a little CA glue can actually bond them. The crepe paper covers the glued spot, and both adds strength to the bond and adhesion, since it's saturated in the diluted glue. I have tugged at the seizing points and they are held together well enough to endure some abuse. At 1/64 scale (and probably 1/96, 1/128, etc.) it's an effective illusion of seizing and much easier than seizing with thread.
  2. Here is the method I have been using for seizing. I think I found this in the build log of Jersey City Frankie's Niagara, though I am unable to find that build log anymore. The procedure is as follows: Tie thin thread at the point where the ropes join and secure with a tiny drop of CA glue. Cut off the loose ends of the thread. Use a tiny drop of CA glue to attach a small strip of black crepe paper and wait for it to dry completely. Using a mixture of 50% white glue / 50% water, dampen the crepe paper strip and wrap it around the ropes. There is a 3D
  3. The ship's bell can be found on the back of the mainmast. These cleats on the bulwarks are for the foremast running backstays. There is no way I will be able to reach them once the shrouds are in place, so I attached some line and left a length sufficient (I hope) to rig the backstays later. Here is a picture of that particular cleat on the actual ship. Finally the masts were glued in and the trestle trees on top of them. The mainmast trestle tree has a platform for the radar. Here is the 3D design for the trestle tree. Next time, the sh
  4. The anchors have been added. I'm mostly satisfied, but in hindsight, I feel that a thinner anchor cable would be better. (I used the .045 miniature rope as in the Sultana practicum.)
  5. I attached blocks and line for the tiller. This was my first time using the Syren 2mm blocks. Manipulating them and threading line through them was a big challenge. There are some other areas of the ship that call for these small blocks and I'm not looking forward to it.
  6. The bowsprit cap was glued onto the end of the bowsprit. I attached one heart and two deadeyes for the bobstay and bowsprit shrouds respectively. I have been happy with some of my 3D printed parts and disappointed by others. The 3D printed hearts have been one of the more successful ones. I glued the bowsprit into place and tied on the gammoning. Among the (many many) reference photos I have collected of the Sultana replica, the gammoning is sometimes white and sometimes black. I thought that black looked better. Finally the bobstay and bowsprit s
  7. Here is a picture for comparison. I included one of my 3D printed mast caps too (which hasn't yet appeared in my build log). The major difference with the bowsprit cap is that mine has a parallelogram cross-section while the kit piece has a rectangular one.
  8. Some work on the bowsprit and jibboom has been completed. Chocks were added to the bowsprit and sections were painted black where appropriate. The bowsprit cap was 3D printed and an eyebolt was added to hold a block for the jibstay outhaul. Here are the pieces dry-fitted. It sure does look fragile.
  9. I have been trying to think about what final details I can add to the model while it is still easy to do so. Once the shrouds and other rigging is in place, it will be much harder to fix anything on the deck. I stropped several blocks and lashed them to eyebolts on the deck. The bitts were designed in Fusion 360. And the bitts were glued into place. I also created a piece to cover the area where the bowsprit disappears below the deck.
  10. Thank you for following along, Yves. I am very proud of the 3D printed parts I'm making. At the same time, not always satisfied with the results due to the limitations of 3D printing, and I think others would feel the same. My 3D printer can only produce a certain level of detail, which is often inferior to what a wooden or molded plastic part could be. Even so, I would be happy to pass on any of my 3D model files to anyone who wants to use them.
  11. If you're having printing trouble, you might consider breaking the design into multiple pieces and gluing the parts together afterwards.
  12. All the cleats have been added to the foremast. Yes, there really are more cleats on the foremast than the mainmast. They handle the brails, foresail tack, and something else that I don't remember at the moment. The picture below is from my visit to the Sultana in 2018. The mast hoops were very simple to design. A nice side effect of the 3D printing process is that the filament layers ended up creating a kind of simulated wood grain on the mast hoop pieces. Adding wood stain onto the beige plastic makes them look con
  13. Time for some work on the masts. For the mainmast I need... An octagonal thing at the base. And some cleats. And the boom rest. The mast was shaped, stained, and painted red at the bottom. The parts from above were 3D printed in black and glued on. Here is the base of the mast dry-fitted. I did similar work on the foremast but discovered that the cleats were positioned too low, so that will need a redo.
  14. Thanks, Matt. I hope you're doing well too. I had a look at your Winchelsea build log and it's looking great. You should be proud of your planking effort.
  15. After a little hiatus, I'm back to working on my Sultana. No much progress since my last update, but the lower deadeyes and chainplates have been added.
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