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Williamo

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  1. IKEA has a good range of manual and electric powered variable height desks. Consider buying just the base and fix your own top to it. This is what I did. You could of course make one from scratch, (see above) but Mr IKEA has done most of the work already, so you can maximise modeling time.
  2. Greetings Members l recently bought a model kit- Billing Boats Marie Jean # 468. It appears to be several years old , ( possibly 15), and is almost complete. At the time of production, the kit was offered for sale in two separate boxes, # 468 - the kit, and #469 the fittings. So I am now searching for #469, and wondered if anyone has one they are prepared to sell me or suggest a source. I could complete # 468 with fittings sourced from elsewhere, but I have no inventory, and would prefer to use the originals. Any help you can provide will be much appreciated. Sent from my iPad
  3. The problem didn't go away 18 months ago. You might also consider reading accounts from people who have suffered from,(and are suffering from), respiratory problems associated with fine wood dust. Really!
  4. I highly recommend you all read Bill Pentz's page. The danger ( he asserts,) is from invisible airborne dust that is both very difficult to capture and potentially very dangerous. It's produced anytime we cut or sand wood. Because we can't see it, we tend to disregard it. His advice and mine is to buy a good face ask and use it.
  5. I am in the process of designing the layout of my new small workshop including dust collection. This is where I am at the moment. The Bill Pentz site is very comprehensive, and while not particularly well written, should be required reading for all of us who work with wood. Airborne dust (which is invisible,) especially from exotic woods , is potentially very harmful and there is no effective way to capture it. Wear a good quality mask. However, in terms of hardware, he is really focussed on larger enterprises than mine. This is what I have discovered so far:- The most useful things to remember are that your duct material, size, internal surfaces and configuration determine how fast you can move air through the duct, regardless of how much suction you apply. All restrictions and bends reduce air speed. Keep it simple, and err on the conservative side. Find out what air speed you require for each tool to shift chips and dust, from the spec. or the manufacturer. Take the highest value.The online values should be used as a comparison but not trusted. The airspeed to shift dust is always higher than for chips. I'm assuming all tools are isolated by blast gates. So, design your layout, chose your duct size, then see if it can support sufficient airspeed. If not, size up. Then decide if you need a cyclone to drop out chips ( more airspeed reduction). You may find for a simple system, an industrial vacuum cleaner will do the job. Comprehensive system design seems to be a bit of a black art, or perhaps I don't understand it well enough yet. Check the specs. carefully, before you buy a vac or a dust extractor, or better still, borrow a vac and try it out. Good luck.
  6. A completely different alternative, which you could use with the multiple roller device shown above, is to have the drawings adjusted and scanned into a laptop. You then have the capacity to zoom, scale, measure,compare and print, and even move to 3D print or CNC cutting.
  7. Thanks for your thoughts and practical suggestions. As I said in the post above, I'm giving up for the moment, and will address the problem later. I got a bit sidetracked with noise levels while designing a dust extraction system for my new work area- noise and dust being the two most important health considerations I want to sort out.
  8. I'm about to give up on general noise attenuation in the workshop as its going to be much simpler and cheaper to invest in some high-end ear protectors. With some of my machines its almost impossible to economically reduce their noise output. BTW if you are interested in the sound levels in your work area, take your own measurements. Values given by manufacturers are generally not the product of standardised testing, and are not tested while being used. I am currently trying to source 65 mm dia. aluminium blast-gates and actuators. 100 mm seems to be the smallest I can find. I have used plastic ones before, but with mixed success. Any help would be much appreciated. Ball valves are also a possibility.
  9. Thanks for the Sawmill Creek connection. Very helpful. As I said , reading noise reduction fora tells me the whole noise issue seems poorly understood, esp the relationship between mass and absorption. Research continues.
  10. I did think of that and may do it but in any case the vac noise needs to be reduced.My current household vac is 80 dB. Too loud to run for long periods, especially while other kit is running.
  11. Thanks Mark. As I said earlier, it's not clear to me if it is mass, in the form of a sturdy container, ( brick, plasterboard etc.), or absorption in the form of special foam , ( or some combination of both,) that will be most effective to reduce both airborne sound and direct vibration. Putting this kit in a foam- lined box of some sort will obviously lower noise levels, but as this will run for long periods, I'm keen to make it as efficient as possible. Seems to be a lot of conflicting info out there. Research continues.
  12. As part of researching noise levels in my workshop, I came across noise- measuring apps online.Some of these are free. While they are not really the equivalent of professional noise- level meters, they are perfectly adequate for my purposes. My iPad now becomes my meter.
  13. Thanks jud, unfortunately I can't put it outside. I'm in a French town with 600 thick stone walls and fierce planning regs. As I said, I'm still not clear if it's mass or absorption or both that I need need to be really effective. If I put it in a brick box for example, as generators sometimes are, I'm sure that's more effective than a ply one, but recording studios use special profile foam, not just polystyrene.The answer is probably both. On, on
  14. I am in the process of setting up a dust extraction system for my workshop. The vital bit is a cyclone, which discharges sawdust into a bin, hooked up to a vacuum cleaner which collects the dust. It's a pretty conventional setup. There are los of videos on u tube. However, I bought a vacuum cleaner online. It's rated noise level was stated to be 48 dB. This seemed excellent, as most vacs are in the 70 to 80 range, and on a logarithmic scale, that's quite a difference. However, as I should have known, if something seems to good to be true, it probably is. When I fired it up, I didn't need sophisticated measuring devices to tell me it was way over 48. So I am stuck with it and will try to incorporate it as originally intended and have started to look at sound attenuation. The plan is to place the cyclone, vac and sawdust bin in a cabinet underneath a bench. I am dealing with airborne noise as well as direct vibration. Having done some research, it's not clear to me if it's mass, in the form of a sturdy cabinet, or special sound- deadening foam- as used in recording studios, that I need, or both. If any members have experience of this, I would appreciate your advice.
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