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longshanks

Gone, but not forgotten
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Everything posted by longshanks

  1. A mixed bag today Mast rings Fairleads Capping with holes to position thole pin for lead of towing warp Fair lead post Thanks for looking in Kev
  2. It's been a while due to health issues. Before I go further with a tweak to the kit I'd like to state at no point do I think Chis Wattons kit is sub standard. It's a brilliant starter kit made to a price. I've already got further than I ever have with a wood boat. Having been a scratch builder for many years, health issues were causing problems with dexterity and Nisha gave me a way forward knowing I could always fall back to kit mode. Whilst browsing Edgar J March book I noticed that the blocks of the time were were internal strapped, So could I..... The sides/sheaves built up in layers and the ropes run Hook and eye formed I had to anneal the hook to form it and wondered how to harden it. Gentle tapping work hardened it. Seems to work Seems to work So this may be the way forward for the large throat halyard and main sheet but can I manage the smaller blocks... Thanks for looking in Kev
  3. Capping rail added Along with Taff rail and transit rail. I cut a new deeper taff rail to cover timber heads and transom trim. Rudder gets additional pintle & gudgeon above deck Dandy wink gets a Dandy Score (Scratch built). Roller fairlead for aft end of trawl beam Current thoughts are having the Nisha dried out with beach legs and the Trawl beam resting on the the sand Transom finished off with trim Thanks for stopping by Kev
  4. Glad you like it That's the way I'm hopefully going Thanks for likes, it's good to have the support Kev
  5. Moving onto deck furniture.... Dandy wink. Used to hoist rear of towing beam I chose to have the hatch boards open Drilled holes, punched disc to fit. Stretched sprue for handle Tissue/dilute Pva to make tarpaulin Tarp, boards and metal bands to lock down the hatch boards I hope you like the progress Thanks for looking in Kev
  6. That match puts it all in perspective. Very nicely done. 👏 Your seascape is going to set it off perfectly Kev
  7. Only a few pics but big steps forward................. Deck fitted. This has had numerous washes of lifecolour 'Wooden Grey Umber' You can see the original maple colour where the boiler plate is missing Rubbing strake painted Vallejo Emerald knocked back with pale grey. The hair grips have been shortened on the inboard side Thanks for stopping by and for the likes Kev
  8. I've recently had this curling problem whilst applying washes to the deck.. The answer I found was to lightly apply water to the curled side . Plastic over deck and lay on a flat surface with weights on top. Part of the problem seems to be a sealing layer on the reverse side, this stops the veneer taking on moisture evenly. During the washes I've even had to apply moisture to the back. I've just this morning glued my flat deck down HTH Kev
  9. Thanks for the likes Slow progress but.... Working the hull above the waterline White, grey and raw umber oil Rudder temp. added with pin for strength. Note scupper line has had the stanchions picked out with shadow Thanks for looking I hope you are enjoying the build Kev
  10. Painting the bottom .... Hull prepped.a few irregularities in the planking showing a working boat. Hull colour Vallejo Black-grey I'm hoping to show her as a working boat so I used a Chocolate brown to represent the tar anti fouling. To take away the monochrome colour I used Oil dots. Grey, white, yellow ochre and raw umber. Blended and washed out with white spirit. (I did use smaller dots the next time) I feel I achieved the look I was after A nice contrast I hope you like it. Thanks for stopping by Kev
  11. Thanks Folks for the kind comments and likes.... Hull a step closer with the rabbet strips fixed A touch more blending but good enough for government work. The bows of these trawlers were fitted with a roller for the trawl hawser. This is not represented in the kit so of course I had to add one This is not a reflection on the kit which is building into a fine model. The kit is designed as a starter and given my physical limitations I wanted something I could tweak where I was able but still finish up with a fine model trawler. Bow roller a combination of plastic and brass tube Horn made from an off cut of the wood sprue Room for a good clean up I feel Thanks for looking in Kev
  12. A change of pace and closer to my comfort zone (I normally try and scratch build using plastic). Case in point. The steam capstan is very detailed but the vanes are photoetch but only 0.4mm so.. I packed each side with 0.35 plastic card, giving an overall width of 70mm more in keeping I feel Then on to the tow post which centered around the pump. So I thought it would be good to represent the pump handles Thanks for stopping by Kev
  13. Thanks for the info, most useful. I confess to having Edgar J March excellent book and hope to tweak a few bits as I go Kev
  14. Time for the second layer starting with the bulwark strip Painted with Vallejo Black grey with a thin off white strip to hopefully indicate the scupper line. I don’t like to use black or indeed any Full colour at this scale. Compare the black grey with the black of the clip, I feel the black is to harsh. You will also note that I have added 0.5mm ply where the first full strake will lay. This being to infer the thicker deck wale. I struggled a bit with the tick strip/fan due to the involuntary tremor mainly in my left hand. So I marked frame spacing of 40mm with 20mm at the ends. Using paper I found the length of the hull arc and divided by the number of strakes giving the width of the stake. This was transferred using digital vernier. Note I have the rabbet pieces still held by clamps to simplify sanding Note at the bilge line amidships I have again packed out the strakes (2) to form the bilge wale. A question for the wise folks on here. I’m not sure if the wale should follow the strake line, sheer line or water line. Do you have any thoughts? Thanks for looking in Kev
  15. Thank you guys for your kind comments Second planked hull. First ended looking like fish gills. I must say I am so impressed with the quality and ease of building Chris Watton has achieved. Aided by the huge amount of information and tutorials on this site. I think I have achieved a reasonable standard. I agree, the sailing trawlers were known for their turn of speed. Kev
  16. Hi Folks Having lurked on here for a while I’ve been inspired by Chris Watton and James H to build a wooden fishing boat. I have a keen interest in the early SW sailing fishing boats. Nisha seemed the perfect opportunity of a well thought out kit with character boat for my first build. Just the basics until the completion of the first layer of planking. When first fitting the false deck, I was a little nervous of how much to fair in. The consequence was the inner bulwark would not sit flush to bulkheads on the bottom edge. Taking the deck edge back to bulkheads et voila they fitted like a dream, no pins used. I have deviated from the instructions in the following ways. Part 62 the stern board. I fitted this ahead of schedule after fitting the bulwarks parts 45 & 46. Due to the exposed the nature of the stern timbers. This may come back and bite, time will tell. First layer of Planks / strakes was marked using tick paper and fan as per this forum. Perhaps unnecessary for the first layer but good practice. Edge bending required from the 5th strake down. Fitting Garboard strake I also temporarily clamped the various rabbet patterns and drew along the inside to give me a better idea of the planking finish line. Simple clamp for holding strakes whilst shaping Edge bending. I found it required only a damp finger run along the wood First layer completed Thanks for stopping by Kev
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