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JerseyCity Frankie

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It’s a point which weighs against us, and a fact to be deplored – 
That we chased the goodly merchant-men and laid their ships aboard.

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  1. I say this is a three masted topsail schooner. In order to be a schooner she needs two or more masts with a fore and aft rig on the lowers and the main taller than the fore, the image at the top of this thread satisfies those requirements. In order to be a barque of any kind she’d need a full unambiguous square rig on the fore, which she does not have. The crux is the foremast when you’ve got a Gaff Lower AND a square course. Some use the criteria of a fidded tgalent being the thing that turns a mast like that from a schooner formast into a barkentine formast but I’m sticking with the gaff rigged fore and aft sail on the fore as the criteria that swings it solidly into schooner mast territory. I’d argue that the definition of a mast has more to do with the primary lower sails rather than the way the mast is configured way above the topmast.
  2. I worry I’ll become a broken record on the topic of Petersen’s rigging books but on the other hand people keep recommending these books and I feel prompted to point out that SOME of his work is pure nonsense. Much of it is fine but when I began looking at his work with a critical eye I noted a lot of hogwash. Enough to merit warning people to be careful.
  3. ....and since the topic has come up again I’ll add my usual warning not to use Lennarth Petersn for serious study. His illustrations are very good and much of what he covers is valid but in his book Rigging Period For and Aft Craft he goes off the rails into Stupid Town, passing fiction off as fact to who knows how many unsuspecting ship model builders? In my view he undercut his entire reputation with the publication of that deeply flawed book.
  4. Another vote for Underhill Masting and Rigging of the Ocean Carrier. Great book that goes into the kind of detail you are after. Great illustrations.
  5. Painting basswood with Sanding Sealer before you begin to work on it does a lot to combat the fuzziness of the basswood fibers. If you’re like me you’re too cheep to buy better wood to work with but there are still other species of wood more suitable to carving if you look around. For instance older wooden rulers and yardsticks are made of pretty tight grained wood, the older measuring sticks were actually made of boxwood!
  6. If your kit came with a plan of the ship you could use a piece of paper carefully folded to check. You need the side view or Elevation of the hull. Maybe it’s on the sail plan too? Put the edge of a piece of paper so it lines up with the lines of the deck, holding it so it won’t slip. Then fold up one corner of the paper till the edge on the folded part matches the transom on the drawing. You can then use this template to test the angle on the model.
  7. “The days of sailing vessels “ is too broad a term. Also consider that at any given era in history, thousands tens of thousands or hundreds of thousands could be engaged in the same occupation, worldwide. You shouldn’t assume that all engaged in the same endevour would all have the same emotional makeup. You need to be much more specific.
  8. Since I may build another Pride of Baltimore II Model I have been collecting every relevant photo of the schooner that crosses my path. There are now about 130 photos of Pride that you can see by clicking on this link: https://flickr.com/photos/140039433@N06/sets/72157683445473075 Flikr is a free photo sharing website and app. Anyone can see the images and in order to make your own Flikr albums you just need to register, which is free. You don’t need to register with Flikr to SEE the images, anyone can visit the photo album. By using Flikr I’m making these 130 photos available to people on MSW but I’m not burdening the MSW servers with storing all those images.
  9. I believe the topic was book recommendations? ....... the Neophyte Shipmodelers Jackstay by GF Campbell is my recommendation. This slim volume is a good place to start if you want to invent the wheel for yourself and begin learning ship model building from the very beginning. The reason it’s perfect for the beginner is that it has some of the best clear uncomplicated illustrations you will ever see. Plus it doesn’t go down the rabbit hole in any one issue, it stays simple and covers the basics in a straightforward and efficient style. It covers all the necessary topics yet remains uncomplicated. Finally it’s inexpensive and easily obtainable in the secondhand market.
  10. You should be very proud of this HMS Victory Model, it looks really good. Particularly the color of the ship and the overall texture of the rigging. The colors of the deck hull and fittings are very convincing and look very natural. I know there’s now a lot of push/pull about the historic color of the hull stripes but for me Victory will always have the buttery yellow colors you have selected.
  11. The Chestree has nothing to do with the anchor, they are fairleads for the Tacks. There should be a hole bored through them from fore to aft for the line to reave through, and another hole bored through the hull adjacent to them that leads the Tack inboard to the Gundeck where it belays on a kevel or huge cleat.The two vertical paralel wooden “fenders” are actually used for Parbuckling casks and barels aboard, the barels role up the ships side and the two wooden tracks give a smooth surface to roll on. Here’s a simplified example of how it works. I scincearly hope the boat dropping off the stores rows out from under when they begin lifting. On a ship the size of Victory it must have been quite a task.
  12. When cut, the ends of the rope are going to Unlay no matter how much twist. Depending on the material you use some rope will unlay more than others. In scale models the Whipping winds up being dipping the end in glue. Synthetic line can be cut with a hot knife and this heat melts the fibers at the cut. But if you want Historical Acuracy you will have to put a Whipping on the end of the line, which is what is done in full size practice. Whipping is done with a needle and thread, look up “sailmakers Whipping “ and “common Whipping”.
  13. This has all the makings of a fascinating lecture. I could imagine someone trying to document the degree of Bowsprit Steeve on every vessel for which data can be obtained and then build a presentation that would show the many influences that would arise over time to guide the shipwrights decisions about the angle. Factors as mentioned above by Henry. Whenever I’ve gotten involved with a sailing vessel I’m always eventually reminded how every individual part of the vessel is subtly effected by every other part of the boat. You can’t isolate anything aboard and say that it’s independent. If you perform some task at one end of the ship it will have subtle effects all over the rest of the boat.

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