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JerseyCity Frankie

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It’s a point which weighs against us, and a fact to be deplored – 
That we chased the goodly merchant-men and laid their ships aboard.

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  1. Wow down to just two now. But I’m sure they don’t need them for their mission. As regards my model, now I’ll have to decide if I’ll go with two or four. I built four, and photos that were reasonably recent showed four. But now I’m a year and a half into this build and my refrence material is becoming dated!
  2. After applying the plasterlike Putty my intention was to put on a thin coat to help level out the peaks and valleys but then it occurred to me I could get the same result by stretching fabric across the surface and that’s the green fabric in the photos. Over this I stretched clingfilm as a glue resist. The actual sailcloth itself is the cheapest poly cotton blend bed sheet material. I don’t believe it pays to try to find ten thousand count Egyptian cotton since the weave of the fabric is going to be blunted considerably by first the epoxy and then the paint. All you need is fabric that is reasonably thin. No visible weave of any kind should be our goal at this or any other scale. I cut a piece of sailcloth fabric then I mix up a small batch of two part 5 minute clear epoxy, this I spread over the fabric using a scrap of flat plastic as a squeegee to try to force the epoxy down into the weave of the fabric. I place the wet fabric over the mold then stretch it as tightly as necessary to get all the wrinkles out and staple it to the back of the mold to hold it in place till the epoxy hardens. After peeling off the hardened sail the back of the sail, the part facing the mold, is completely smooth and shiny from being pressed against the cling film. This will have to be sanded in order to get it’s texture to more closely match the rougher surface on the front of the sail.
  3. Likely it’s a good idea to attach that lower sheet block now, your instinct is quite right. If it was me, I’d strop the block using wire and I’d just form an eye over the traveler (often called a Horse) while I was at it. I’m skeptical of the single block shown in the photo, I believe a double block is more likely given the loads involved with the Main Sheet. In my opinion.
  4. I hope this isn’t too off topic but speaking of HMS Pickle I see you’re quoting the figure of 14 guns? “Pierced for 14 gun’s but carrying four”. Wikipedia says eight guns and I’ve also seen Ten guns quoted. Where are you getting the 14 gunports figure? I ask because I’m researching a painting of the Pickle and it turns out I keep changing the gunports as I come across more references.
  5. There’s a nomenclature problem too if you slap on a Jibboom: you’re no longer a cutter if your Bowsprit doesn’t run, with a fixed Bowsprit you’re just another Sloop.
  6. The idea of the sliding Bowsprit has long fascinated me and I too wish there was more information on its implementation. I wonder what was involved in changing its length and how often was this operation carried out? Was it the sort of thing one did only in port or moored in sheltered waters? Altering the spars length of course necessitates adjusting the stays too and if the topmast stay is slack for any length of time-especially if the vessel is pitching- you risk losing the topmast. And what do you really gain by having a Bowsprit you can run in, as opposed to having a fixed Bowsprit and jibboom? Presumably if you’ve got a Running Bowsprit you can have any size Jib you want, but with a fixed Bowsprit you can still reef your jib and get the same result-albeit with slightly different centers of effort height. I’m guessing that deciding to go with a Jibboom on a Cutter you are accepting the idea you’re going to break it in marginal conditions but with the saving in manpower of not having to adjust your entire headrig.
  7. In my build log of my Constitution restoration/rebuild I tackle the same issue and there’s photos of the steps I took to fake the hull planking. I faked the coppering too. My hull was dented and gouged so I used acrylic modeling paste then two coats of krylon spray primer. I painted the hull with acrylic then scribed the planking details. I put thinned acrylic dark paint over the hull then burnished/buffed it off with a rag when it was 80% dry and this left dark paint down inside the scribed lines which accentuated the planking.
  8. I’ve heard the phrase Discord Server before and have only the vaguest notion that it allows group participation in a conversation, or something like that? I feel strongly you should fully describe what this concept means and entails. Who knows? Maybe it could be a good resource. But if nobody understands what it is you won’t get any traction.
  9. It’s very dangerous to assume that just because there’s a model of it, it must have historical validity. This is why I’m curious to see whatever information inspired either the model or the kit. I’d like to see the source material and get the back story. And people keep asking but I assure you that I have no further information about the model in the photos. A friend emailed me the photos and asked my opinion of the model but no information beyond that was provided to me.
  10. I’m very curious now to know more about the ships history and I’d like to know a lot more about the odd carriages. I think a gunnary training vesal is very plausible, that makes sense. But the carriages still bother me because of the fact I’ve never seen reference to anything like what is depicted in the model or the kit. If you’ve got a gunnary training mission to fulfill you need a way to mimic real world conditions. If your only concern is the physics of the flying shot then you wouldn’t have to worry about gun caliber and you could use the sort of bulwark mounted swivel guns we’re all familiar with. But if you want to train crews in the shipboard operation and handling of the guns, the loading and training ect, you would need (I think) a conventional gun with a conventional carriage-mimicking the guns to be found on a regular warship. Training on a gun that has a carriage not found on actual warships and which fires over the bulwarks in an odd manner would be strange, in my opinion. I’d like to see whatever reference material inspired or guided the designers at Mamoli.
  11. There’s zero information on this model, all I know I put into my initial post at the top.
  12. Paper mache with water and flour and cut-up paper grocery bags is now laid over the rough cardboard forms, the idea is to fair out the peaks and valleys and to fill up the nooks and crannies so that when I cover these with Durham’s Water Putty they won’t take up twice the needed material. Then I paper mache over THAT with tissue paper, to smooth the lattice texture. Then set in a window to dry and hopefully they’ll be ready for the Putty by this evening. Still wet in this photo.... The first layer of paper mache dried well but shrank in a way that accentuated the underlying ribs of cardboard so I put on another layer, this time with newspaper. This morning I shaved off the high points with a scalpel blade. Like so many ship model processes, it’s taking longer than I thought it would......
  13. I’ve seen “disappearing “ gun mounts in land fortifications, they have a huge sturdy mechanism to raise a gun above the level of a parapet or embrasure and when the gun fires it is lowered back out of the line of sight and fire from the enemy. But I can NOT believe this is what’s going on here. I understand the need to keep the warlike nature of your vessel a secret from your enemies, but that is taken care of simply by using gunports lids. The amount of manpower needed to prepare a broadside would be doubled or trebbled if the gun crews were also expected to jack the guns up then lower them back. Plus, after the initial surprise, you still need to use the odd mechanism for each subsequent shot, reducing your rate of fire. If the carriages are a permanent and fixed feature that DOESNT raise or lower, why are they so spindly looking? They aren’t robust enough and would be a tremendous danger on a small pitching and rolling vessel. Speaking of rolling: if you raise all the cannon three feet higher, the ships metacentric weight is unfavorably altered and your rolling motion and stability is greatly negatively impacted. The amount of ballast need to counteract all that tophamper would be significant.

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