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About mati

  • Birthday 08/12/1986

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    Sosnowiec, Poland

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  1. Hi Siggi I have to say that I'm always impressed when I see work like yours. It's just a begging of the build but already we can see that is gonna be amazing model. Your previous models are smashing!! How come I've missed them earlier? Really looking forward to follow your updates. Can't wait to see more photos! Good luck! Take care and kind regards, Mateusz
  2. Mike I'm looking in each update from your side Simply beautiful... You're right there is a difference comparing photos. Thanks for names of the paint... I really like red hue which you achieve. Looking forward for another update
  3. Mike your model is so neat... that's give very interesting look. I have to admit that is impressive for me. I've missed which paint you using? Red and black... Deck wood is holy, right? Cheers, Matt
  4. Glenn, You and your build... it's like a national treasure!! Absolutely stunning... I wish to had a chance to see your model once. Cheers, Matt
  5. Thank you very much for such a kind comments Carl the size of the bitt is around 2,5 cm. Another little progress Cheers, Matt
  6. Thanks Carl Another little fitting Cheers, Matt
  7. Carl and Mark thank you very much A little bit of progress Cheers, Matt
  8. Thank you Gents for your kind words This time I'd like to post just pic of small anchor. I've made it the same way as a big one... few pages ago Cheers, Matt
  9. Hello A little update... I'm working on gunport lids and hinges... so far portside is done. Starboard still not Silversolder as usually... after soldering I've done some etching on hinges in iron (III) chloride and after that blackening in JAX solution. Cheers Matt
  10. You're welcome Mike Liver of sulphur it won't create some ugly stain... it'll just create some yellowish pigmentation. Easy to remove with water I have also pure Selenious Acid H2SeO3... but it is more demanding when solution is too strong... and when is older it's loosing feature. Cheers' Matt
  11. First... I'd like to "say" thank you all for kind comments. Mike, According to your question. In some places yes, I did brass blackening "on wood". Mostly I did it for nails. After sanding or file it is already nice clean surface, but I always give final finish with steel wool (number 0000) For blackening I've used Brass Black (Birchwood Casey) but... you have to clean solution (water and brush) quite fast because of residual which may occure stain on the wood. I'm more pleased with result using JAX product for darkening brass. After reaction with brass won't stain the wood. It's much cleaner process. Of course I've still cleaned with water residuals of the solution. Another method... is to use copper wire and blacken it with potassium polysulfide (K2S) (liver of sulphur) Very nice and fast blackening solution for copper. But also you have to clean residual with water. Otherwise you will get yellowish stains. For eyebolts I think brass will be the best material. And here I can recommend two methods: first you wind 0,5mm wire to create kind of spring on some rod let say 1,5mm diam. and cut out with jewelry saw a single rings, then piece of straight rod solder to those rings (maybe silver solder If you fell that you can challenge that solder) And nice, symmetric eyebolt will be made. Second method... just to bend and form eyebolt from brass wire. And also solder to close eyebolt. Faster... but I thing less effective method. For blackening... brass so you can easily go for your Blacken-It or buy Brass Black from Birchwood (great solution... really!) or JAX products. But... as I wrote in some post before... to allow create blackening solution layer of our desire color... we have to prepare surface properly. So... either classic acetone, citric acid or some cleaning and degreasing solution from mentioned above companies. I have no idea how is in US with some chemicals... but you can get also iron chloride (III) FeCl3 or ready 40% solution. Great stuff for cleaning metal... or actually etching the surface. FeCl3 is solution used in etching PCB... so I think it's easy to get on the market. If you use more classic method like acetone then before blackening dump the element into kitchen vinegar for a while. Vinegar will create microporous surface which help to hold our blackening effect. By the way... If you want to protect you blackening effect more permanent you can always spray detail after blackening with acrylic matt varnish (e.g. Humbrol)... no way that will go off If you have any doubts don't hesitate to ask. If I know I'll help with pleasure. Cheers, Matt
  12. Mike, What a neat work! Beautiful... surgical precision. Great attention for details Keep going Cheers, Matt
  13. That's what we call perfect lathing! I'm impressed... and I'll keep follow Cheers, Matt
  14. Well... well... that's gonna be something! Can't wait for update! Your models are just simple masterpiece... so this one can't different Kind regards Mateusz P.S. I know you already from Mirek stores

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