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deaz

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  1. I still need to get mine ordered. Life has unfortunately gotten in the way of everything. I still plan on starting just don't know when. 😕
  2. I don't think it's been said yet, regarding epoxies: working time and set time aren't the same. The times quoted on most off-the-shelf epoxies is the working time. This is the time that the epoxy is easiest to work with and still fluid enough to move. This isn't an exact time 5 min might not be 5 minutes, 60 minute might be 45. It depends on how much hardener was added, how well it was mixed, etc. Set time for many epoxies is 24-48 hour. This is the time in which it will become fully cured, again not always exact. In the OP, after 5 minutes and through an hour it was still gummy. This isn't surprising or unexpected, rather it's quite normal for that type of epoxy. I've used 5 minute epoxy that's taken a week to cure completely! I won't go into the epoxies that only harden with UV light... or are flexible even after fully cured....
  3. Oh man, I missed the boat on this batch too, already gone. Maybe my timing will be better in the next batch round... Glad this has been such a success.
  4. Those turned out so much better! Very little work will be needed in cleaning those up, and you'll never know it was printed.
  5. One advantage to the smaller pieces (more cuts) would be if one piece didn't print well, it would be quicker and easier to try different printing settings in an attempt to get a better print without having to reprint half the cannon. I honestly think either approach would work though.
  6. I didn't expect you to know nozzle size, or some of the other details for that matter. It's something they should know, as it would go into calculating the right wall thicknesses to make number of passes an even number. 0.15mm is much more reasonable. Yet you should have been able to get more/finer detail than you did, even under large zoom. And I will freely admit looking at a picture isn't the same as holding the part in your hand, it might not be a bad print at all. It'll be interesting to see what you learn from meeting with them. In the end, it comes down to whatever you are happy with, not everyone else's opinion.
  7. They should be able to produce a better print. If you have any questions about some of the settings they should be able to adjust, feel free to ask me. I'll attempt to help you sort them out so you can get the best print possible. Cheers
  8. I thought I would chime in here, because I actually have some 3D printer knowledge (one is sitting on my desk behind me). The layer height is way way too course for what you want. I typically print with a height of 0.2mm. I'll attach a "poor" print with this layer height. The infill amount is ok, and should be fine going forward. You should also consider wall thickness, for your cannon, a 1-1.2mm thick wall should work well. All this can/should be variables in the printer, limiting factors include nozzle size, print speeds, people making the print for you, etc. But they should certainly be able to produce a better cannon for you without having to remodel it for vertical printing. Final thought: shorter print height will definitely increase the print time. I'd guess, without running the model through my slicing program, each half would be 3-4 hours... max.
  9. I've already set aside funds for this. Patiently waiting for you to release it out into the wild. It looks fantastic, and I'm eager to try to do the kit justice.
  10. Sweet, I figured there had to be a few around, certainly going forward I'd like to possibly meet others, maybe learn a thing or two. I see you're in Phoenix, I'm located in Tucson.
  11. Thanks! I'm not afraid of a challenge, so we'll see how it goes.
  12. Yes, mine came with sails. They were already sewn, so that was one thing I didn't have to worry about.
  13. Thanks for the head's up ccoyle. I've already got the kit, had it for 5-6 years sitting on the shelf waiting for me to finish the Swift. I've been looking over the instructions and plans and already realized the instruction booklet wasn't going to be much help. I hadn't made it to the rigging diagrams yet. As a mechanical engineer by day, I'm quite use to incomplete, inadequate, sub-par documentation (sometimes my own fault, more often than not someone else's). Most of the time I can figure out what's suppose to go where and such. As for this Fish kit, the wood looked pretty good, at least better than the Swift's. Though I'll freely admit, I probably haven't seen a kit with great wood to begin with. As for your other points, at this point in my skill level, I'm not really looking for a ship that's correct in every aspect, I'm looking for something that will allow me to develop the skills (planking) needed for those ships that will cost an arm and a leg, where I expect to have nothing but the best materials, period correctness, etc. All that being said, as I start down this next journey, I'm sure I'll be back with questions about how to do this or that and complaints about the kit. At which point you can enthusiastically say "I told you so" because I'd probably say something of the sort if roles were reversed. Cheers!
  14. Ugh! So many mistakes... I laugh now, but at the time... Those pieces you're referring to, I worked really hard at getting them to fit, and still look like they belonged. And the holes that were suppose to go through to the deck for the anchor ropes/chains, I couldn't figure out why the instructions were calling for a 0.5mm hole...but I drilled them as 0.5 only after stringing the rope for the anchors and finding some additional fittings did I figure out they should have been 5.0mm. I left them; artists discretion, right?! Add a few other mistakes found in the plans, the last 6 months weren't without their own frustrations, but I made it through. And like I said, learned to enjoy the process.
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