George in MN

Thanks for the two additional suggestions Keith. I ordered the 0.8mm washers that Kurt mentioned above. I was hesitant on relying on the CA to hold the bolts in the wood but it sounds like it does the job. tnx George

Wow, this is great Kurt, Thank You. I figured there had to be some other approach to this and I didn't know washers this small could be had. This was exactly what I was looking for. tnx agn George

So I’m have the hull planked, decked, and stained. Only 341 hours on the boats build log to this point…. Still Having Fun!... Right?? I’m what you would call a “Beginner”. Anyhow, next is to install the Eyebolts and Ringbolts. The book says “These eyebolts were installed by….then applying a washer and peening over the end of the bolt to secure it”. I have looked carefully at the photos and read through the Philadelphia build log threads here. Some of the photos show the Eyebolts through the hull and still full length (still under construction) and the ones that are done do not have a good enough view to see how it was done. What are you folks doing? My plan so far is to flatten down (way down) a piece of lead, use a 1/8” brass rod as a hole punch, and knock out a bunch of washers and pin hole the centers. Thinly tin the eyebolt with solder, install through the hull, slide washer on outboard side, tack solder to eyebolt (carefully), snip off remains, touch up with black paint. I have a very hot soldering iron with a very small pointed tip that I use to solder surface mount electronic parts so I’m thinking I can get on it, melt the solder to the lead, and get off before the heat is transferred to the wood. I just mentioned the above to the Admiral (my wife) and she said why use lead… can’t you just flatten out the solder? Now why didn’t I think of that!! Anyhow, any comments/suggestions? Thanks George