Peter Y.

I got pulled into the recent 'Lego renaissance' on the forum and finally decided to fiddle around with some of my own pieces. The parts inventory is modest in comparison to the other builders so the final result isn't very big. I decided to build something with wheels and came across this photo while looking for my inspiration online: I always liked classic American trucks and thought that a tipper is a great idea. Lego creations should not only look good but also be functional and this gave me the opportunity to feature something more then just spinning wheels and a steerable axle. The end result can be seen below (larger versions of photos available upon clicking). As you can see I made the cab shorter and the tipper taller - I used other photos that I've found online as reference. The stickers used are from other Lego sets: The model can (of course) roll and has two main features: 1. Steering via a 'hand of god' axle placed on the roof. I made it very short as I didn't want it to spoil the cab lines but you can easily attach an extension: 2. A pneumatic tipping system. There's a small air pump placed on the left side just behind the cab, an air flow switch on the right and an actuator between the undercarriage and the tipper. All you need to do is press the pump and the actuator will either extend or retract depending on the switch position you selected: Below you'll find some photos of a partially dismantled model - it's way easier to show 'how it's made' this way than trying to explain it: All pneumatic systems in full glory: Interior - fits two Lego minifigures, complete with a steering wheel, gear stick and a cup holder: Upper, middle and lower parts of the steering system: Undercarriage seen from below: That was fun. Hope you like it.

Each time I stop thinking about digging out my pieces there's an update on something Lego-related and nostalgia kicks back in. I give up - I'll try and put something together this evening or it will never go away. Considering how limited my parts are it'll probably be something with wheels. Don't expect fireworks.

Hi Arctic, Have a look in these two topics:

Thanks for the prompt answer Kurt. Glad to hear you're thinking about it.

Do you plan on live streaming or recording some of the sessions/panels?Would be great if they were available in a webinar-like form for those that can't make the event itself.

This is a very unique vessel and I agree that building it just above the waterline wouldn't seem right. Glad you made that decision John. I would assume that the real propellers would be made of some kind of copper alloy so you might consider changing the color to yellow. Brilliant idea with that disc-shaped piece!

Those are some really great photos Jim - made me feel like I build the thing myself. The kit itself is pretty interesting. I especially like all the functions - there's nothing worse than a Lego kit that does absolutely nothing and this one looks jam-packed with fun features. I am however quite disappointed with the final look. The front and rear end somehow lost all of its slickness and sexiness. - They managed to make it look bulky and heavy. I know that this is made out of Lego but considering the scale I think they could have done a better job. - I just can't shake off the feeling that the design should have stayed in the oven for a bit longer. Also the inconsistencies in coloring are killing me - why did they make the bumpers and some minor details matte chrome but not the wheels, exhausts and door handles?

Nice one. Makes me want to look in my Lego box.

@No Idea I'm glad you like it. Thanks for the great advice! I've started the copper plating yesterday and man... This is definitely the most challenging bit yet - at least for a newbie. A very slow process and one that requires a lot of precision.

Hull painting completed: As you can see I was a bit sloppy with the stern ports so they'll require a bit of detailing. I guess it's time for the copper plating. - The capping rails that I mentioned earlier will be fitted after I'm done with it. Not sure yet which glue to use.

Minor update. Bulwarks painting completed, black bits got their first layer: I also did the companion: Next steps will be completing the hull painting (obviously) and then doing the capping rails.

Yup. I've used it for the picture below. I made sure that the angle is right before taking the photo and also added a nice red line so it's easier to see that it's level: As seen above, the outer bulwarks have their first coat of 'Yellow Ochre'. 2nd layer tomorrow.

I'm actually surprised by how well it turned out: As you can see I also marked the waterline and filled some of the imperfections (note that the waterline on the photo below doesn't appear straight because I tilted the phone when taking the picture): 'Waterline Tool 5000' (as seen on TV) 😉: Up next - outer bulwark painting.

@SpyGlass Believe me, I've thought long and hard about whether I should just varnish the damn thing but ultimately decided to go with painting and copper plating - I even ordered some Amati plates because of their slightly more realistic look. I've read your log in great detail before starting mine - just like every other Pickle log on this site (I think there's a dozen of them) and I was very impressed with your craftsmanship. That first planking is definitely better than mine!

I had a look in both build logs and found them quite helpful. Thank you for the links! Yes, there are indeed two coats of varnish. I didn't think of it as a lifebuoy but it's a good point Rob. That's the tape that I'll be using - not knowing anything about the craft I just went with what many people here recommended. Sounds like a great tip with the burnishing. I was thinking whether time or temperature are factors when it comes to the masking tape sealing abilities. For example: - Will applying the tape and leaving it for an hour before painting make any difference? - How about blowing some hot air on it? Wouldn't that 'loosen' the tape's adhesive and enable it to fill any surface irregularities better?

@Sjors @alde Thank you for the kind words and joining the spectacle. I'd never get this far if it wasn't for this forum's resources and advice from the community. I've decided to take care of some of the imperfections - this will include using filler here and there. Then I'll mark the waterline and hopefully apply the first coat of paint early on Saturday followed by the second one on Sunday evening.

I got to the point where I have to paint the inner bulwarks of my Pickle. I searched this section of the forum and numerous build logs but didn't find a lot of tips on how to do this. The articles/downloads section of the website doesn't have anything on painting as well... Do I just simply secure the deck with masking tape and paint the bulwarks hoping that I wont stain the deck or are there any tricks and/or special techniques that I could use? I'm especially concerned about the curvy sections.

Inner bulwark planking has been completed. Question time: There is nothing in the instructions about the gunport sides and sills planking. Should I just use some filler to make them nice and smooth or should the three layers of wood be visible? Up next - the part that I dread to think of... Painting. Thanks to all the useful topics on this forum I was able to get proper materials and equipment - sable brushes, Tamiya masking tape, Admiralty Paints, etc. but I don't feel any more competent than a 4-year old about to design his first nuclear reactor. Fingers crossed for me not screwing things up.

I think that giving others the opportunity to admire it is a truly wonderful gesture Sjors. Creating beauty is something exceptional but sharing it is even better.

I’d propose adding the Caldercraft Pickle to the ‘No experience’ category. It seems to be working for me as an introductory kit.

@SpyGlass I just followed the technique on the 2nd page of this topic: Honestly - the hardest part was obtaining the needle as in the UK they're basically unavailable to the general public.

@SpyGlass Thank you! I've 'drilled out' the tree nails/plugs out of a piece of birch wood using a pin vice and a modified needle (internal diameter 0.55 [mm]). Then used a very thinned walnut wood stain to give them the right color. This is the deck after two layers of matt varnish: I also corrected a small error. I didn't take into account the thickness of the stern fascia when cutting the black strake and wale so it was necessary to extend them: As you can see in the first picture - I've already started the inner bulwark planking.

Stern fascia in place: Gun deck planked (not sanded yet; caulking made with archival ink brush pen): Inner bulwark planking up next.

Long time no post. Believe it or not: There's actually summer in the UK so I'm taking full advantage of that once-in-a-decade opportunity ;-) I've been working on the model for about 15-20 min. almost every day for the past couple of weeks and simply thought it's pointless to update you on every little thing. I think there's some noticeble progress now so decided to take some photos. A summary of what was done: - 2nd planking completed - includig planks above black strake and in-between gun ports - hull sanded down - no filler used (I don't think it's necessary) - stern post and keel in place - false deck in place - gun/main deck in place I've decided to paint the bulkheads and other bits inside the hull black as I want them to be less visible through gratings/openings. You can see the result on the last photo. I think that my next step will be doing the gun/main deck planking followed by the inner bulwark planking and fitting the stern fascia.

Hi everyone, I am not a RC modeller but am in need of a component that some of you (I think - please correct me if I'm wrong) commonly use: A CV joint. Problem is that none of those I could find on the web fit my requirements. I'm looking for a 24mm long, 8mm external diameter cardan joint that would have sockets for an X-shaped shaft on both ends (ideally no less than 6 mm deep). Capable of withstanding at least 400 mNm of torque. Is anyone familiar with a company or an individual that could manufacture such a piece for a reasonable price? We're talking about a relatively small quantity (maybe 20). Thanks in advance.