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About SkipW

  • Birthday September 8

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    New Jersey, USA
  • Interests
    Woodworking, Ship Modelling

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  1. One part of the stern quarter trim that really does not fit well is the decoration running down to the wale. It must overlap the wale but that is a mm higher than the hull. Several of the blogs show how other builders have overcome this problem. A very complicated way is to make a piece running from the bottom of the stern window piece to the wale. It is composed of a double curve and it never seems to come out looking smooth due to the use of a lot of filler to get the curves and blend it in. My idea was to simply take a piece of the walnut hull planking and fill in the space so it is on the same level as the wale. Then once the trim piece is in place carefully carve back to the trim. While it may not be perfect it does seem to look as the original plan sheet shows.
  2. Just because I've been rather silent, doesn't mean I haven't been working. I'm amazed it's been 10 months since my last post. With the free time afforded by COVID I have been working away, albeit a bit slowly. Most of the hull construction is finished. A few challenges faced and met. Some of the coppering needs a bit of recleaning but close to time to start thinking about masts, spars and some rigging. I have gotten a lot of help from the Build Logs on line - without those this would be infinitely harder. Thanks to all those who have "gone before". Stay well.
  3. Really appreciate the explanation of the catheads - - I've been struggling with this for several days. You're exactly right - the only way to completely comply with the kit parts and drawings and keep them below the rail is to install them "upside down". It wasn't until I saw your write-up that I realized they needed modification to get the proper upward angle coming thru the side. Thanks!
  4. Blocks In checking the kit parts list I should have 180 3mm single blocks - - however on checking the contents of the large packet of 3mm (actually 3.8mm) blocks I have 110 single blocks and 100 double blocks. Anyone else make this observation? I think I am seriously short of 3 mm single blocks. All the other sizes/types of blocks and deadeyes check out.
  5. The lower hull is finally finished. All the excess CA was cleaned off by using a brass wire wheel in the Dremel tool. It was not easy, but it did work. The best approach is to try to minimize CA squeeze-out when applying the plates. I probably over-applied CA being cautious about the plates adhering. When using the wire wheel it has to be low speed, low pressure. If you generate too much frictional heat you get transfer of brass onto the copper and that is harder to get off then the CA! That requires medium coarseness steel wool. The top of the coppered area was finished off with a 1x1mm walnut strip as others have done - it dresses it up nicely. Hanging the rudder was a bit challenging, but once you realize the gudgeons are at a right angle to the stern post the rest is just care in fitting them, aligning the gudgeons on the rudder and putting in the dozens of nails. The preventer chains will be put on later. Now onto the upper decks.
  6. My coppering job is done - I will post some pictures when I am satisfied with the clean up. A word of advice to those who will copper the hull - - - be very judicious with the CA adhesive. Getting it off the plates when you are done is more than onerous. The problem with CA is it polymerizes and that "plastic" that is formed is very tough and not very soluble. I've tried many ideas, and while acetone is helpful, for the thicker spots, especially along the bottom edges of the plates, it is not that effective. I am now using medium coarseness steel wool, which does work, very slowly, and does not mark the plates. Going over it with 0000 steel wool leaves the plates bright and shiny. I'll be cleaning plates for a while so if anyone has any suggestions please let me know.
  7. Hi Martin - Looks great. I see your struggling with some of the same issues I had, When to Do What, or conversely What to do When! Good luck on the carving, that's really ambitious. I look at some of these books of museum models and carvings are exquisite. I've never had any luck carving stuff. I don't think I'll start now.
  8. After a lot of debate (with myself) and reading blogs I decided this was a good time to copper the hull; prior to installing the upper decks. It has its advantages and disadvantages, but this way once the hull is coppered I won't have to invert it anymore. I used the technique described by Blue Ensign - soaked the sheets, one at a time, in white vinegar, buffed with 0000 steel wool and then cleaned with acetone. Put the sheet into a gallon zip-loc bag and then folded to separate the plates. Once this was done they were never touched without latex gloves. Used medium CA to glue the plates, applied with the side of a needle as a spreader. Too often I still ended up with too much CA and cleaning the plates will be a bit tedious, but I have found 0000 steel wool with a bit of acetone will take off the excess CA (with a bit of elbow grease). First I put folded plates around the stern post, which will be mostly covered with the hull plates. This gives a neat look to the stern post. I started off trying to "brick lay" the plates like Blue Ensign, but quickly became unhappy with the gaps caused by the curvature (kudos to Blue Ensign). I then went to the technique used by Flyer, of overlapping the plates slightly at the bottom (top edge of the lower row). This allowed me to get tight fits and looked a lot better. The upper most row was installed along the waterline as done by Flyer. I like the nice appearance. Cutting the plates always leaves a somewhat jagged edge. When both sides are complete I will add the small wooden strip at the top of the copper, on the waterline. Pictures show the starboard side, finished, and lightly cleaned. I won't do the final cleaning of the CA until both sides are coppered.
  9. Hi Martin - You can find a lot of info on rigging the guns "for sea". The barrels were typically raised quite high and lashed to a ring bolt above the port. I would guess in this configuration you would build it with the gun ports closed, which while realistic, would hide some nice detail. I have not seen any models fitted with all 18 gun port lids (open or closed). Most have the guns run out and only show closed lids on the forward two ports, where guns were not fitted according to the records. I think there is even data to suggest that very likely the Pegasus went to sea with only 14 guns as the British Admiralty was short of cash and scrimping on armaments and decorative work on the Swan class ships. Cheers, Skip
  10. Back to cannons and how to rig them since the cannons which will be under the upper decks need to be placed prior to gluing the decks in. I decided to fit all carriages with breeching ropes, not a big deal. Only the four cannons that will be slightly visible will get in-haul and out-haul tackles, out-haul only on the visible side. There are several approaches to treatment of the spare line on the tackles. On DubZ's Syren - he leaves the lines free on the deck, although these are not cannons and don't have as much excess line. Many builders of the Pegasus, e.g. Flyer and Blue Ensign, chose to frappe the tackles. After looking at a lot of reference material and blogs, I have gone a slightly different way. With the guns run out, showing her teeth as they say, I would guess that the gun would need to be ready for somewhat violent recoil, so the out-haul tackles would need to be free to run, not frapped as they might be for storage with the guns stored inboard. So I have flaked the excess line alongside the gun as I might imagine it was done in preparation for firing. The in-haul tackle is at its' maximum extension so there is likely very little excess line, so I chose to affix it to the deck running back close to the eye bolt holding the inboard block. This seems to me how the cannon would be set up prior to firing.
  11. Yes, they should look familiar. Except for not having actual half lap joints they are copies of your design. I love your blog and refer to it often.
  12. Have moved on to hatch gratings. After looking at a lot of blogs I came to the conclusion that the gratings should be cambered athwartships. This agrees with some blogs and a lot of actual hatch grating pictures. I assume this is so when tarped over they shed water easily. To construct them rather than do the tedious job of making half lap joints I used two pieces of 2mmx3mm walnut. The top one upright and the lower one on its side. This gave me the 5mm height shown by others with the ability to camber, or crown the grating appropriately. While a glue seam can be seen if you look really closely the net effect looks like the half lap joint. Sanding across the grating with a rocking motion produced a good curvature.
  13. Hi Dave - Glad to be able to help a bit. These blogs are of amazing help. I have pored over the Pegasus, Fly and Syren blogs and gotten a wealth of information. Trying to do this from the kit instructions alone would be nearly impossible. Good luck! Skip

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