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SkipW

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Everything posted by SkipW

  1. On to capping rails, chains and deadeyes. First I had a painful lesson on the fore-aft orientation of the capping rails. What I realized after getting them mounted (and glued) was that at least in the foremast capping rails the fore-aft position is super critical - due to the close proximity of the cannon ports and oar ports. Unfortunately they had to be removed and moved aft about 1/8th of an inch for every thing to clear. Mounting the fore mast deadeyes, chains and preventers went smoothly. However for the main mast I ran into the same problem cited by Blue Ensign and seen on other models. The preventer plates overlapped the wale by a fair bit. I don't like the look created by notching the wale. Therefore I took the same approach as Blue Ensign. I fabricated shorter chains to go from the deadeye to the long chain loop. I did this using the jig shown in the photo. Simply two brass nails about 3.5mm apart with the heads cut off. A small hook in one end of 22 Ga, black, artisan wire was hooked on one nail, pulled tight then hooked around the second nail. The wires were trimmed to leave about a 1/2mm opening in the open side. These gave chain links of a great length so that while the preventer plates touched the wale, they did not overlap it. Quite a few more deadeyes to go!
  2. After consulting a few blogs I finished making and fitting up the bowsprit. A couple comments. I got the tip from Blue Ensign that the bowsprit cap in the kit was not really usable. He was right. So following his lead and looking at Anscherl's cap, I followed suit and made it bigger with holes drilled through at the proper angle using scrap 5mm walnut from the kit. There is no way that using the kit supplied cap you could get the angle right and mount all the eyebolts. The other interesting thing is the rigging of the bowsprit is different in the Anscherl book and the kit rigging sheets. I chose to go with the kit rigging scheme. I doubt many people will notice.😊
  3. For turning the round mast tops - I started using the router and turning the lathe by hand - - but that was hard to accurately control the length of the rounded section. I ended up just "choking up" on the mast section (exposing maybe an inch) and turning the round section using a 1/4" gouge and 1/4" skew - just normal turning. For the square sections the lathe is just used for holding and getting precise angles. On the upper sections of the masts, where the dowels are 6mm and 4mm - it became impractical to use the router. So I took the jig off and simply used a flat file held parallel to the lathe ways, still using the indexing pulley to get perfect 90º angles. With a good flat file 5 or 6 strokes gave me the depth I needed. What I found intriguing was how to get a 6mm square base from a 5.88 mm round dowel. So at the base of the mast sections I cut the square section all the way down. Then laminated the lower part on all four sides with 1mm walnut veneer. Using a sharp knife cut the angle at the top. Looks very good and fits the trestle trees really well. There is another turner's trick I used which is not shown. To turn the tops of the t'gallants I made a steady rest for the tail stock. I drilled a hole just slightly bigger than the dowel. Then when putting the mast section in the lathe you insert about a 1/4" of the top into the steady rest. This way you can turn the dowel down very accurately and very thin. I lost my nerve when it got below 2mm and used a file and sand paper to get down to the ~ 1.5mm final diameter. Then you simply cut off the 1/4" of original material at the top. If you are interested I could post a picture of how this is done. I will probably use this technique to taper the spars.
  4. While hiding from COVID I have been working along at a slow pace. Finished most of the fancy work at the bow. Then after attaching the chain plates realized that in order to get the proper angle on the deadeye straps I would need to get the masts at least roughly done. That started an adventure of building jigs for my lathe to round, square and taper the various mast segments. They are all finished now ant the attached photos show the lathe fixture that allowed me to use a laminate trimming router with a 1/4" bit to mill the masts. (Not the topgallants as they are a bit too small - a different technique was used for those). The lathe was fitted with a machinists chuck so the dowels could be passed thru the hollow live stock. The router was set up using a birch dowel of the correct diameter and then the walnut masts sections were milled. The square sections were done by using the indexing feature on the live stock. With the masts now close to absolute position I can line out the shrouds and backstays and get the deadeyes in place.
  5. One part of the stern quarter trim that really does not fit well is the decoration running down to the wale. It must overlap the wale but that is a mm higher than the hull. Several of the blogs show how other builders have overcome this problem. A very complicated way is to make a piece running from the bottom of the stern window piece to the wale. It is composed of a double curve and it never seems to come out looking smooth due to the use of a lot of filler to get the curves and blend it in. My idea was to simply take a piece of the walnut hull planking and fill in the space so it is on the same level as the wale. Then once the trim piece is in place carefully carve back to the trim. While it may not be perfect it does seem to look as the original plan sheet shows.
  6. Just because I've been rather silent, doesn't mean I haven't been working. I'm amazed it's been 10 months since my last post. With the free time afforded by COVID I have been working away, albeit a bit slowly. Most of the hull construction is finished. A few challenges faced and met. Some of the coppering needs a bit of recleaning but close to time to start thinking about masts, spars and some rigging. I have gotten a lot of help from the Build Logs on line - without those this would be infinitely harder. Thanks to all those who have "gone before". Stay well.
  7. Really appreciate the explanation of the catheads - - I've been struggling with this for several days. You're exactly right - the only way to completely comply with the kit parts and drawings and keep them below the rail is to install them "upside down". It wasn't until I saw your write-up that I realized they needed modification to get the proper upward angle coming thru the side. Thanks!
  8. Blocks In checking the kit parts list I should have 180 3mm single blocks - - however on checking the contents of the large packet of 3mm (actually 3.8mm) blocks I have 110 single blocks and 100 double blocks. Anyone else make this observation? I think I am seriously short of 3 mm single blocks. All the other sizes/types of blocks and deadeyes check out.
  9. The lower hull is finally finished. All the excess CA was cleaned off by using a brass wire wheel in the Dremel tool. It was not easy, but it did work. The best approach is to try to minimize CA squeeze-out when applying the plates. I probably over-applied CA being cautious about the plates adhering. When using the wire wheel it has to be low speed, low pressure. If you generate too much frictional heat you get transfer of brass onto the copper and that is harder to get off then the CA! That requires medium coarseness steel wool. The top of the coppered area was finished off with a 1x1mm walnut strip as others have done - it dresses it up nicely. Hanging the rudder was a bit challenging, but once you realize the gudgeons are at a right angle to the stern post the rest is just care in fitting them, aligning the gudgeons on the rudder and putting in the dozens of nails. The preventer chains will be put on later. Now onto the upper decks.
  10. My coppering job is done - I will post some pictures when I am satisfied with the clean up. A word of advice to those who will copper the hull - - - be very judicious with the CA adhesive. Getting it off the plates when you are done is more than onerous. The problem with CA is it polymerizes and that "plastic" that is formed is very tough and not very soluble. I've tried many ideas, and while acetone is helpful, for the thicker spots, especially along the bottom edges of the plates, it is not that effective. I am now using medium coarseness steel wool, which does work, very slowly, and does not mark the plates. Going over it with 0000 steel wool leaves the plates bright and shiny. I'll be cleaning plates for a while so if anyone has any suggestions please let me know.
  11. Hi Martin - Looks great. I see your struggling with some of the same issues I had, When to Do What, or conversely What to do When! Good luck on the carving, that's really ambitious. I look at some of these books of museum models and carvings are exquisite. I've never had any luck carving stuff. I don't think I'll start now.
  12. After a lot of debate (with myself) and reading blogs I decided this was a good time to copper the hull; prior to installing the upper decks. It has its advantages and disadvantages, but this way once the hull is coppered I won't have to invert it anymore. I used the technique described by Blue Ensign - soaked the sheets, one at a time, in white vinegar, buffed with 0000 steel wool and then cleaned with acetone. Put the sheet into a gallon zip-loc bag and then folded to separate the plates. Once this was done they were never touched without latex gloves. Used medium CA to glue the plates, applied with the side of a needle as a spreader. Too often I still ended up with too much CA and cleaning the plates will be a bit tedious, but I have found 0000 steel wool with a bit of acetone will take off the excess CA (with a bit of elbow grease). First I put folded plates around the stern post, which will be mostly covered with the hull plates. This gives a neat look to the stern post. I started off trying to "brick lay" the plates like Blue Ensign, but quickly became unhappy with the gaps caused by the curvature (kudos to Blue Ensign). I then went to the technique used by Flyer, of overlapping the plates slightly at the bottom (top edge of the lower row). This allowed me to get tight fits and looked a lot better. The upper most row was installed along the waterline as done by Flyer. I like the nice appearance. Cutting the plates always leaves a somewhat jagged edge. When both sides are complete I will add the small wooden strip at the top of the copper, on the waterline. Pictures show the starboard side, finished, and lightly cleaned. I won't do the final cleaning of the CA until both sides are coppered.
  13. Hi Martin - You can find a lot of info on rigging the guns "for sea". The barrels were typically raised quite high and lashed to a ring bolt above the port. I would guess in this configuration you would build it with the gun ports closed, which while realistic, would hide some nice detail. I have not seen any models fitted with all 18 gun port lids (open or closed). Most have the guns run out and only show closed lids on the forward two ports, where guns were not fitted according to the records. I think there is even data to suggest that very likely the Pegasus went to sea with only 14 guns as the British Admiralty was short of cash and scrimping on armaments and decorative work on the Swan class ships. Cheers, Skip
  14. Back to cannons and how to rig them since the cannons which will be under the upper decks need to be placed prior to gluing the decks in. I decided to fit all carriages with breeching ropes, not a big deal. Only the four cannons that will be slightly visible will get in-haul and out-haul tackles, out-haul only on the visible side. There are several approaches to treatment of the spare line on the tackles. On DubZ's Syren - he leaves the lines free on the deck, although these are not cannons and don't have as much excess line. Many builders of the Pegasus, e.g. Flyer and Blue Ensign, chose to frappe the tackles. After looking at a lot of reference material and blogs, I have gone a slightly different way. With the guns run out, showing her teeth as they say, I would guess that the gun would need to be ready for somewhat violent recoil, so the out-haul tackles would need to be free to run, not frapped as they might be for storage with the guns stored inboard. So I have flaked the excess line alongside the gun as I might imagine it was done in preparation for firing. The in-haul tackle is at its' maximum extension so there is likely very little excess line, so I chose to affix it to the deck running back close to the eye bolt holding the inboard block. This seems to me how the cannon would be set up prior to firing.
  15. Yes, they should look familiar. Except for not having actual half lap joints they are copies of your design. I love your blog and refer to it often.
  16. Have moved on to hatch gratings. After looking at a lot of blogs I came to the conclusion that the gratings should be cambered athwartships. This agrees with some blogs and a lot of actual hatch grating pictures. I assume this is so when tarped over they shed water easily. To construct them rather than do the tedious job of making half lap joints I used two pieces of 2mmx3mm walnut. The top one upright and the lower one on its side. This gave me the 5mm height shown by others with the ability to camber, or crown the grating appropriately. While a glue seam can be seen if you look really closely the net effect looks like the half lap joint. Sanding across the grating with a rocking motion produced a good curvature.
  17. Hi Dave - Glad to be able to help a bit. These blogs are of amazing help. I have pored over the Pegasus, Fly and Syren blogs and gotten a wealth of information. Trying to do this from the kit instructions alone would be nearly impossible. Good luck! Skip
  18. Finally finished the second planking. Overall I am happy with it. However I needed a couple of "cheats" near the bow. No matter how well I tried to taper the planks at the bow, they became very small and did not lie flat at all. They started to clinker badly. My fix was to put in three planks on each side that tapered to a point just short of the bow. They will essentially be covered with copper sheathing so won't show. You can see them in the "bow on" photo below about 1/3 of the way down from the keel. At the stern I added several stealers with good success and had no problems with the stern planking even the turn up to the counter. In reviewing all the Pegasus blogs it does not look like I was the only one who had trouble with the second planking. Most models have some "adlib" to fit the planks at the bow, or stern. Even the picture on the box cover shows some rather bizarre planking below the whale, just above the copper sheathing. I also found the plans rather vague on the stern construction. I planked the whole area above the hull planking, then fitted a piece of walnut veneer which will mate up to the stern fascia piece. The height of which I ended up setting from looking at a number of blogs. Now on with finishing the gun deck planking. Pictures are: l to r: Bow planking, stern planking. Below: Port side planking Bottom: Starboard side planking.
  19. Now beginning the second planking with the walnut strips. I have the strip at the top of the whale in place and now two strips along the keel on each side. I find that there is a slight misalignment in height as the planks get laid next to each other. Instead of waiting to sand this all out I cut a 3/4" wide strip off the end of a cabinet maker's card scraper and turned a burr on it. This acts like a plane - used this to good effect on the deck planking as well. The card scraper actually removes shavings - - not dust - - and you can quickly level out high spots. This will in the end reduce the amount of sanding significantly. See photos. You can find how to turn a bur on a card scraper by Googling "sharpening a cabinet scraper" takes a bit of practice but once you can do it it is a very useful tool. I used Titebond to put the top of the whale and garboard strakes in - but cannot figure out how to effectively clamp the strips in between. So have moved to CA - - no problems yet - only slightly glued my fingers to the planks. Even though this will all be covered by the copper plates - I want to learn how to plank without pin holes for future projects. Pink spots are sanded down Bondo auto body filler which I used to level out low spots. Planing down second plank - note shavingsCard Scraper
  20. The adventure of the first planking is completed. Again I benefitted from the many Pegasus and Fly blogs. Didn't have much trouble doing the planking. I used the method described by Chuck Passaro along with the Planking Fan that is on the NRG website. Came up with an easy way to soak planks - two feet of 1" PEX tubing with a cap on one end and a stopper in the top. Fill with hot water - drop in one or two planks - soak 30 minutes and pin to hull to dry. No problems. Having the rabbet in the stem made forming the planks quite easy. I also stopped the planks short of the stern post in the bearding area so that once sanded out the second planking will be flush. Not quite so lucky on the keel and will need to sand a bit there so the second planking will be flush with the keel when laid. For the second planking. The kit says from the top of the gun port strips down. However looking at some blogs some guys seem to scribe the whale and use that as a guide for planking both down towards the keel and upward past the gun ports. Suggestions? I have a bit of sanding to do before starting the second planking. Also - kit say use CA glue - some builders have used PA - I'm more comfortable with PA (or Titebond is my favorite) is CA forgiving enough to locate planks tight and well positioned before it "bites"? Plank SoakerStern Pre-sandingPort Side Pre-Sanding Bow Pre-Sanding
  21. Cannons and Gunport Strips I took a sojourn into making cannons to get my head into working in Lilliputian scale. I found the carriages supplied with the kit a bit wanting, especially the wheels. So I bought the carriages from Syren. Really nice quality. Then I got a surprise, the Syren carriages are made for Chuck's turned brass 6 pound cannons, and since I convinced myself that the Amati cannons were OK, I found the that the carriages were to narrow for the supplied cannons. Hmmmmm. Solution, hybrid carriages, axle cross pieces from Amati and all the other parts from Syren. Worked out OK because I got the width I needed. Still a nerve racking as thinning down the axles and drilling out the wheels was very delicate. I found that holding the wheels cross-grained with pliers would keep them from splitting while being drilled. Once I did this I had no issues. I painted the cannons with Rustoleum matte black - looks OK to me. Making the brass trunnion caps was also a nice challenge - for that I made a jig similar to what Blue Ensign did. Not quite sure how to do it with card stock and get the sharp bends. Photo below. I soaked and formed the gunport strips after reading every blog I could find. No one has enjoyed this task. When satisfied I fitted a dummy bowsprit and glued the front sections on. The screw in clamps from Micro-Mark worked great - I found that drilling a small pilot hole helped get them started and kept them from splitting the mdf. I made one mistake - if you see the pictures, in my zeal to get everything tight and with the crowding along the frames I put pump type wood clamps between the frames - this resulted in some scalloping along the bottom of the strips which I would rather not have. Anyone gluing these strip in the future should probably avoid doing this. Some filler will make it "all go away" prior to second planking but it didn't need to happen. Another issue I had was that while I faired all the bulkheads really well - somehow I did not get the main deck faired as well and in a couple of areas it was proud of the bulkheads - - I all looked great from the top. However when the glue dried I had bulges where it distorted the gunport strip. This was remedied with a Dremel with a small burr - cutting away the deck behind where it was too large. Those "scars" will be covered by the deck planking so no harm done. Have started the first planking and it is going smoothly. Will write on that later. At this point I have switched to Titebond glue as I had several joints where I used the White Glue come unglued with slight pressure. Not happening with the Titebond.
  22. I probably haven't progressed much since my last log post - - have spent quite a bit of time fussing with cannons - - learning a few things along the way - I'll post that when they are done. Have not progressed on the hull past the initial planking of the center of the main deck. Building up my courage to tackle the gun port strips - I surely have the feeling they are the biggest hurdle on the hull construction. I did an initial shaping on my "forms" and have not gotten further. Quite a few summer time tasks and diversions!
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