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Posts posted by Zack Soderquist
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Step 39 Pintles.
Ok.. now I officially HATE working with these stupid tiny pieces of brass and tiny brass nails that go flying everywhere. Ugg
The brass straps they provided after bending around the tubing were way too short to wrap around and secure to the rudder. My kit had an extra phote-etched sheet so I used the extra four hold straps and size wise it worked out much better. I had the extra hole but it was a concession I made.
This picture was before cleaning up and touching up the paint.
Also, I did the notches way wrong and now realized they should have been more shallow and wider to accommodate the brass strap. However, the pintles are already so close I don't know that recessing them closer to the rudder would have been a good idea. I may fill in and paint the notches. Undecided at this point.
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- robert952 and Ryland Craze
- 2
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Step 37 stay plates
So I was not happy with the nails they provided. Way too big and didn't look right so I went back to those small nails from my abandoned Rattlesnake build.
The top nail below is the one provided with the kit. The lower one is the Rattlesnake nail. Part number for these nails is MS0940
The smaller nails looked much better
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Step 36 Metal fittings: eyebolt in the bow.
This was pretty straight forward too but the eyebolt went flying and I couldn't find it so I requested a replacement from Model Expo. The part was free but they charged me $5 for shipping on a part they could put in an envelope and throw a stamp on it. Oh.. and then the next day, I found the dang eyebolt. Go figure.
I am using CA glue to attach the brass to the boat. Even with a applicator tip, it was putting out too much glue so I switched to using my little pink glue cups and a glue applicator I got from Micro Mark (I think) awhile back.
Also, I really like the Starbond Oderless Thin CA glue.
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Step 35 tiller assembly
The tiller assembly was pretty straightforward. I struggled a bit with mushrooming the 1/16" brass rod for the rivet took awhile but finally got it done. The tiller extension was problematic. First, I went with the 1/32" brass rod because the 1/16" seem too big for the piece of wood. I was unable to get this to mushroom even after annealing it. It ending up splitting the wood on the extension. I had some tiny brass nails from an abandoned build of the Rattlesnake so I used one of those so it looked better on the top. Since the wood on the extension was already split making it extra fragile and I wasn't even going to try to mushroom the other side of the nail, I just glued it into place and made in non-functional. I also used 1/32" brass rod for the tiller extension handle and not the 1/16" rod per the instructions.
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One note on the painting. I did prime everything with Model Shipway's white primer, which is the only color primer they seem to offer. In the future, I will probably go to another brand and go with grey primer.
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- Ryland Craze, WizardOfOs, Claire7 and 1 other
- 4
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Step 34 Floor Boards
When attaching the stern side floor boards, I started with board 9. To ensure I got equal spacing around the dagger board trunk (front and sides). Then I spaced the rest off of that one.
Also, boards' 1 and 12 I had to trim down a little and touch up the paint on the cut edge after installing all of them with equal spacing.
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ccoyle & WizardOfOs: Thank you for the feedback. Much appreciated! I looked at your build WizardOfOs and I like the look. I will be going for a similar paint scheme.
To give an update on the progress, I have completed the painting of the hull and will be begin working on the floor boards and painting them and the thwarts prior to assembly. I will post some progress photos soon.
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I'm considering painting the seats, masts, etc that might normally be stained. I'm considering painting it warm white similar to the exterior hull. My question, not being a boat expert, would it be uncommon to paint the masts? Anything else that might be uncommon to paint?
Current plan on paint is to go with the same paint scheme as the instructions. Warm white (MS-4832) exterior, Hull Copper Red (MS-4814) interior.
- druxey, Bryan Woods and Ryland Craze
- 3
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- GrandpaPhil, Bryan Woods, druxey and 5 others
- 8
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Received the new rudder from Model Expo on April 17th. I was quite impressed with how soon I received the replacement. Less than a week.
Step 28. Rudder now completed.
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10 hours ago, Claire7 said:
You’ve ordered the part, but I was wondering could you not use the punched out shape to recreate the rudder?
That is my backup plan
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The author of the instructions likes to use actual measurements as opposed to scaled measurements. (sometime he provides the conversion). When I started this kit, I looked for the ruler he had pictures of and I found it in pounds (not dollars) which means it would have to be shipped from over seas. I decided against getting it at the time. Now I want one, so I did some looking and found some small 6" scale rulers on Amazon and for a lot cheaper. Hopefully the will be helpful but if not, they are not too expensive. Plus seems it has more scale sizes in the 2 piece set then the one from Europe.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0885RP8PK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Ryland Craze and druxey
- 2
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Step 28 Rudder
Disaster! I had finished shaping & beveling everything and was doing a final clean up of char in the small crevices when it broke and the little part went flying and I cannot find it.
Model Expo has a free part request process located here: https://modelexpo-online.com/Parts-Request_p_7714.html
I submitted a request for a new rudder. The sheet that has the rudder on it has a part number MS1471-F which is what I requested. I have never used this service before and not sure if this is an appropriate use of the service. Hopefully it is and if so, then I'll just have to wait and see how long it takes to get a new rudder.
- druxey and Ryland Craze
- 2
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Step 27 Dagger Board
This was pretty straight forward as well.
- Ryland Craze and druxey
- 2
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Step 26 Rub Rails. I wasn't 100% clear about what to do here and the instructions provide no photos. I looked ahead at photos and got the gist of what needed to be done. It was pretty simple once I figured it out. Here are some photos of Rub Rails
After the glue dries. Trip them flush with the transoms and then round off the end. Then soften the corners on the rub rails and inwales along the long edges.
- Ryland Craze and druxey
- 2
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Step 24 Rudder gudgeon pad - straight forward (no photo)
Step 25 Row Lock Pads. This was actually pretty straight forward. Be patient, take your time.
- Ryland Craze and druxey
- 2
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Step 23 Chain plate slots
This one made me a bit nervous but I took my time and was very careful. Worked out pretty good. Instructions say to cut this slot to 2" which obviously is 2" at full scale and would be 1/6" at 1:12. My ruler doesn't do 1/6 inch so I went with 5/32 which is about as close as I can get with my ruler
- Ryland Craze and druxey
- 2
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Step 22 Mast Step
The instructions indicate that one piece of the mast step has a hole and the other does not. Both of mine had holes. Looking at the pictures of the prototype, the whole goes all the way through as well. So apparently the instructions are incorrect here.
Also, during gluing as I was applying pressure to hold it in place in the middle, I snapped it in half. It was a clean break and I was able to glue it together and sand it to clean it back up.
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Step 19,20,21 completed. I am going to still go back with some wood filler and touch up any gaps in the quarter knees etc. prior to painting step.
One note, after acquiring and using a 3/8" round file for the transom notch per the instructions, I realized it's a bit wider than the marked line. Not sure if this is going to affect the finished boat but the markings on the boat for the transom notch is only about 1/4" wide. So you may want to start with a 1/4" round file first.
- druxey, Ryland Craze, MajorChaos and 2 others
- 5
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Step 19 & 20 I did together. I thought I could get away with not bending the floor board cleats and just using glue to hold the very slight curve. Nope! Didn't work, no way to really clamp it. So I went with the instructions and put slight bends in them. Once dry I sanded and smoothed them down and softened the top edges. Tweezers helped to make positioning easier when gluing the cleats.
The transoms I had to make adjustments. Since my planking job didn't end up exactly where they were supposed to be I had to approximate adjustments on both in order to keep my model similar to the photo in the instructions.
On the rear transom, I stayed above the marked line about 1/16". Because I stayed above the line, I lightly drew the u-shaped notch a little higher to compensate.
The front transom was the opposite. I needed to go below the marked line. So again I lightly drew where I wanted the top of the front transom at prior to cutting and sanding. Again, I was eyeballing this to stay similar to the photo in the instructions. (Sorry the picture is a bit blurry, but I think you get the idea)
- MajorChaos, Claire7, Ryland Craze and 1 other
- 4
Norwegian Sailing Pram by Zack Soderquist - Model Shipways - Scale 1:12
in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1901 - Present Day
Posted
Step 48 Oarlocks
Since I love working with brass so much I figured I jump ahead and add the oarlock plates to finish up brass work on the hull.