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Goodshipvenus

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  1. Thanks much. I will try that. I assume Wipe On Poly is a matte finish? On more question: if I do use a stain (which I probably won’t at this point, just sand off the Danish Oil) won’t i still have the same problem of uneven absorption?
  2. I generally only use tung oil or Danish Oil on wood. It darkens the wood, brings out the grain and seals it. I am currently working on a Japanese Woody Joe model that is supposed to be made from Japanese Cypress. When I apply light oak Danish Oil it leaves blotches where the Oil does not seem to be at all absorbed by the wood. I’ve never seen this with any other wood. I’ve tried sanding down the spots in case there might be impurities on the surface. It helps somewhat, but there are still spots where the wood looks exactly the same shade it was before I applied the Danish Oil. It seem impervious to treatment. Any ideas on what’s happening and how to deal with it?
  3. Chris, I have an esoteric question about Alert. Neither your prototype  nor the Peter Goodwin book show a binnacle. Was there no binnacle on the cutter, and if so, where was the compass that the helmsman steered by?

  4. I have built 2 ships boats from this supplier. They are challenging but can produce very good results, especially with a bit of paint to cover imperfections. I was also frustrated my Model Shipways boat kits. Another alternative I’ve used is to but Jotika boats. The hulls are plastic so they need to be painted, but thwarts are wood and interiors look good when covered with oars and accessories.

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If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

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