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Everything posted by Trig

  1. Ive been wondering how my keel could get so twisted, and then i realised i still had the bit of ply that the precut keel came out of. It is twisted and bowed the same way as the keel section is, so its been mishapen since before i started. I know i checked all my frames and made sure they were good for level and i had cut spacers to space them apart whilst glueing it all up, but i dont think i ever payed much attention to straightness, as it was pretty flexy due to length and thinness of the section. The bottom rear and front decks have nothing in between them, so i only started to notice some fitting issues on the full length mid decks, which fitted pretty good at both the back and front, with only some of issues in the inbetween frames. I assumed at the time that my frames maybe werent as good as i thought, or perhaps it was simply issues with the precut ply not being perfect, or maybe a combination of both. If i had payed more attention then, i would have noticed that it was actually due to the twist and bow in the keel that was causing the ply to fit good at either end, but badly in the middle. But as usual... i didnt pay much attention, and proceeded to glue it all up and keep working, with every piece added making it more and more rigid, but out of line. I wasnt really sure how to go about fixing it, as it is quite bad, but then i realised the only item running full length and tieing it all together is the middle deck pieces, which if cut in the middle, would let the keel flex a bit. So i cut it about 6mm left of the line marked. 60 59 It does let the keel flex, but unfortunately the keel has a gradual bow along most of its length with a bigger twist at one end, which cutting the deck cant really help. Ive managed to get it on dry and get everything that goes through the decks aligned to where they should be, and am now glueing it on. Having to do it in maybe 3 sections to help glue it correctly to counter the twist, and i dont have enough clamps to do it all at once. 61 Need to apply a bit of pressure to the deck to get it to take the curve, so i temporarily ran some wood lengthwise below the crossbeams to give the clamps something a bit stronger to clamp on to. 62 Its not going to be perfect, the frames are a bit one sided in the middle of the boat due to the keel, but i figure i will wait till the deck is glue in place and see what works. Either build my frames out on one side and sand them down a bit more on the other, or alter the deck in the same way, take a bit off one side and add on to the other.
  2. The pots and table are part of the kit, but the plants are bits of lichen scenery stuff for dioramas, you can buy it in small bags. Forget the exact name. Im no expert so there may be other reasons, but i read that the main reason for sanding the char off is because your wood glue doesnt stick as well on top of it.
  3. Not posted in a while, but not really done much on it for most of this year. Made some progress recently, but also more problem. Some of the problems caused simply due to stopping and starting, and then forgetting to do something before something else when i eventually pick it back up again. 50 51 53 55 Thats about all my scratchbuilding done on this deck, did intend some more, but decided not too bother. I had noticed some fitting issues when doing the 2nd level deck, the plywood deck pieces fitted well at parts and were quite a bit out at others. I thought it was possibly my frames, but i did make sure to set them all well at the beginning. Then when checking mast alignment, i had to alter the aft and middle mast holes as they were off centre, yet the bow mast was perfect. 52 Can see the pencil mark of where the mast needs to be. Now im starting to look at fitting the top deck, except the deck itself is well off centre at the bow end. Only upon removing the model from my building jig have i found the problem,which is my whole keel being twisted. 56 57 58 Hard to get it in picture, but i clamped a stringline to the top edge of the keel at either end, and in the middle it has bowed out of line by about 2.5-3mm. Im not sure what has caused it, it should be held fairly straight when clamped in my jig, Does anyone have any idea how you would go about straightening this?
  4. Nice,definitely adds to the kit, what they provide is quite sparse for the size of it. You may have already found it, but ThomasLambos build on here has some great scratch building going on.
  5. Pillar looks good, like the deck colour also. Are you adding any scratch built interior details on top of what the kit provides for cabin layouts etc?
  6. Hey Robert, Im building the same kit myself, and funnily enough i posted the same question in my build log about the mast foot. I decided to square it off as it felt a more secure fit as Cpt Poison says. As for the ribs, i glued all mine in place doing my best to square them up with packers etc as i went, taking the sizes between the slots on the keel as good. The bottom deck fitted fine, but i did have some slight alterations to do on the second decks frame slots for it to fit properly. Been a while now, but i think it wasnt so much my ribs were out, more slight differences in the slots on the ply deck sections.
  7. Hello Michael, it is a current build. Im still quite a while away from planking though, and to be honest if you want to watch how its done, id go elsewhere :) ThomasLambo had a good log going of the Bounty build also, but he hasnt updated for a while, and unfortunately it stops just before the planking stage, which i was looking forward to also ! He did mention switching to boxwood planking to achieve the right bends though. Got my second deck fitted now and starting on the interior walls. Will post some more pictures once i have more done.
  8. So...several months later, and im not doing lights anymore. I ended not using the wires, as there just wasnt enough room to do all the soldering etc required and have it be hidden from sight to my liking. I took another break, and a week ago started on it again but my idea this time was to use fibre optic tubing with one end drilled into an led and the other inside the ship, so that i could have the lights etc anywhere, probably outside the ship altogether in a box with the batteries. Im not sure if they would have been bright enough doing it that way, but i intended to fix the tubes in place, and if ended up not using them, i can cut them off later on anyway. Unfortunately i hit another stumbling block. Turns out superglue makes fibre optics brittle. So i glued them all in position, then went to move the free ends a bit and they shattered. So no lights, i just want to move on now with the build. Next layer of crossbeams are fixed in, and the next deck being boarded. Progress at last !
  9. It was a very neat solution for the wiring. Just a pity when ive tried soldering it and then adding the heatshrink it no longer fits in my beams. I could have the lights down inside the boat giving me room to do the soldering etc there, but im considering missing it out completely now. It seemed a good idea at the time, but im not really enjoying it at the moment, would like to get moving further on with the actual boat build.Might sleep on it tonight and see.
  10. Ah, thanks. Though i suspect you've just cost me some money. Lots of handy looking gadgets on that site...
  11. This is looking great, very clean and tidy looking. Can i ask though, what is a huzzywutchet ? Ive googled it at and theres only 1 result on google, which is this thread.
  12. I use this stuff https://www.walmart.com/ip/BIRCHWOOD-CASEY-BRASS-BLACK-METAL-TOUCH-UP-FINISH-3-OZ/23237826 Works quite well. Im going off what i read on the internet, but i dip the parts in Vinegar for 10 minutes, and then its just a quick dip of a minute or so (i think) in the brass black and its done. Its looking great Tim, making fairly quick progress as well now your back! I like the colours you have went for. Ive been pretty much set on doing my own Bounty as just natural wood, as my last ship was painted, but i really like yours, its making me think
  13. So i took a bit of a break from this. I think really i was trying to avoid the electrical stuff, just cant get my head around electrics at all. Im back at it now though, and i can get my circuits working even if i dont know why or how they are working, so that'll have to do Had various thoughts on how to hide the leds and cables. I thought about making some lanterns to house the lights, but the leds dont really fit in a lantern scalewise. Decided on hiding the led within the crossbeam, with a hole to let the light out into the rooms below. Then creating channels on the top side of the crossbeams to run the cables back behind walls, where they can then drop down into the bottom of the model unseen to be wired up later. The next deck will cover these all up, so i should end up with no cables visible anywhere. Also got myself some sanding discs and a holder that fits in my cheap lathe, and then printed a little table on my 3d printer for it to make into a disc sander. Not as good as a proper one, but better than nothing at the moment. Onto soldering up the leds next, which is interesting... turns out im not much good at soldering.Burning my fingers yes, soldering no.
  14. Im surprised noone commented on the amount of clamps in the first poster's pictures. I really need to up my clamp game if thats a normal healthy amount 😋 I still live with my parents, so im stuck to one desk in the corner, but i get some serious workshop envy looking through threads like this. Though the small closet setups actually look very handy. I reckon if i had a big workshop, id spend most of my time hunting for misplaced items.
  15. I work fairly slowly on this. You would think that would mean less mistakes, but i think going a few days between working on it actually causes mistakes at times, due to me forgetting exactly what i was doing. Got the rear wall sections glued in place, cross beams are still loose as im not sure whether to add any further walls in yet. Still need to add the electrics also. Started on the forward lower deck walls, scratch built again. The supplied interior details on this kit are very sparse considering its meant to be open. Perhaps they wanted to let people add their own to it? Im roughly following the layout pictured in the Anatomy of the Bounty book. (picture below linked from ThomasLambo's buildlog). Not sure what the the two beams, left and right side, running at an angle into the hold are for or called? I did the initial layouts, but forgot to mark for the crossbeams. I figured i would do it afterwards, not causing me any problems. Unfortunately this was all done in bits and pieces over a few days,so I forgot all about them when marking out where the doors would go , and ended up with 2 crossbeams in the middle of my doors,and the third just slightly fouling it. I did briefly contemplate just making the doors shorter on this section..... but i supposed id better fix it properly 😉 Luckily, since ive added the columns below each crossbeam,i can make some cuts and patch in bits and have the joints hidden behind the columns. Have moved the whole thing to the right, will patch in a bit on the left, and cut out the section on the right to move the door back into its correct position. Teacher always did say i must pay more attention! Intentions for the rest of the walls on the exposed side is to have them partly built and do a sort of cutaway/fadeaway on them so you can still see everything else beyond them.
  16. I like this, bit pricy, but worth it if there is no play/wobblyness in the parts. Precision cuts and angles is something that has eluded me, never get them perfect with an exacto or saw. Any idea what size of wood is the max it would handle? 6x6mm walnut too much?
  17. Welcome Dave, I wouldnt let cost put you off too much. For my first kit i was about £60 if i remember right, and for the tools i built that with, probably another £20-£30 at most. I didnt want to spend too much as i wasnt sure either if i would enjoy it, or even finish it regardless of enjoyment. So its not a massive outlay if you start off small. Of course, if i was to tally up the price of all the additional tools and kit etc ive bought along the way, it would probably put us both off ! Your certainly in the right place for inspiration and information anyway, so good luck whatever you decide.
  18. Yep, looking great so far. I like all the various wood colours, is a nice combo.
  19. I'm a bit of a hoarder when it comes to leftovers,and any delivery boxes/packaging I receive gets kept "just in case". Quite often I need to bin the lot when I can no longer move for cardboard boxes Yeah, I intend to get my moneys worth out of the lathe. Been looking at 3d printers also for the last few days. Not sure how I can work that into the build, but ill try! Thanks Sam, still not bought one yet but intending to. Been using online images but its not the same. Looking forward to reading your buildlog!
  20. Thanks Grendel. Ive tried one rounded out, and cut the one in the holdwell to fit the rectangle hole. I believe cutting it square as you say is a better fit, but only if you cut it to the right size, and not too small as i did 😉. Glued some more wood back on and started again. Measure once, cut twice ? I have my holdwell fitted and glued in position now, and veneered the exposed ply edges visible within. Using post-it-notes to take templates of the curves, handy as they stick themselves. Not sure how to do the part in the last picture, the supports for the crossbeams. Curve doesnt look as bad in the picture, but ive been unable to manage to bend wood to it, even with my soldering iron. Tempted to just leave them, they are near the next deck floor so probably not really visible in most cases. Also put strips of wood on the exposed edges of the ply panels for the shot locker and holdwell walls. Made hinges for the door out of some brass left over from my last build, using Casey's Brass Black to blacken it. Begun to scratch build the rear cabins, using cardboard first for a rough template as its easier to change and try diffrent positions. None of this is glued in position, some alterations and final sanding/varnishing needed. Once decided on, i marked it out onto some light ply and cut out the doors. I could have just planked the doors, but i didnt have wood thin enough for that, as using leftovers from my previous build again. Ive ordered some 0.5mm strips to be used on the next decks doors. The middle door has a plastic panel from some packaging, with black paint lines. I intend to use led lights, and this cabin will be lit up. Funny how everything looks nice,square and smooth untill you take a photo of it! I wanted some more practice with the wood lathe, so made some columns which then got cut in half and placed against the walls as supports. Not sure about these, i like the look, but wonder if they are too much, thoughts ?
  21. Alright,thanks. Wasn't sure if once it reacted that was it spoiled or used up, good to know.
  22. Just got some brass black and its working well on my brass, much better looking after using it. Ive been pouring some out into a small cap and soaking the parts in that, but im wondering if i can keep the used liquid and pour it back into the bottle after soaking parts in it? Or will that ruin the unused stuff in the bottle?
  23. Thanks Grendel, Yours is one of the logs i have in my bookmarks for reference and inspiration.Great build, be looking forward to you starting it again The lower decks are glued in position, i thought perhaps i would have problems with wood glue adhesion onto varnish for the walls and columns etc. But now that ive started onto the walls, i can see that varnishing will be tricky afterwards. Will varnish the decks now and then use superglue or other methods for fixing down whatever else i need to. How have you planned to fit the masts into the keel footings? Not sure of the correct name, but post #3 has a picture. I posted above that i was unsure whether to file the rectangular holes round, or cut the bottom of the mast to slot into the rectangular hole. Probably doesnt make much diffrence either way its done, other than shaping the mast means it has a fixed orientation in future. And yeah, im pretty happy with the lathe. Figured £34 wasnt too bad to take a chance on it. Ive ordered some 50mm sanding pads and holder, which should let me turn it into a disc sander also. Once i get them, i can hopefully work out a way of fitting my protractor onto it for filing certain angles. If you search for "mini bead lathe" on google you get plenty of results for them on Amazon and ebay.
  24. If you arent too messy and have CA everywhere, some superglue debonder onto any spillage on your selfhealing mat should clean it up. I tried it on mine, and it did work, but im particularly messy with the superglue, so the mat is beyond saving really...

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