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About AlanDavison

  • Birthday 04/03/1946

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  • Location
    Birmingham UK
  • Interests
    model making in most of its forms, especially, boats, planes and trains in plastic, wood and metal

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  1. Perhaps ac stencil might work

  2. Bulk buying of loo rolls is a psychological thing. When we are faced with a scary things like a pandemic we feel overwhelmed and to counter this feeling we have to do something. Buying big bulky items like loo rolls helps us to come to terms with our feelings of inadequacy as we can be seen to acting, even if it is illogical. People are also bulk buying potatoes (a staple food), pasta (a long shelf life food) and flour (so they can make bread, just in case bakeries close). It’s all very odd, but again there’s nothing quite as strange as the human mind.
  3. Superphaltic glue works extremely well. Just spread it onto you wooden hull, I use my fingers, and the apply the copper tile. A little heat from a small iron or similar also helps. Once glued it’s there for life!
  4. For me it’s the etched deck every time, but I hope you enjoyed the exercise! Well done.Moving further on in the build, I’ve been pondering the anchor cable would be weighed. From the plans the anchor cable descends into the cable tier via the square holes in the foremost grating. To me this seems too soon, as the opening is very close to the bow and a long way from the capstan, so how would the messenger cable be fixed and used. Any advice from you knowledgeable folk out there would be fantastic.
  5. Yes, that’s how I did mine. The fit is so good and the ply is so bendible(?) that apart from a little wetting there no need for building a separate jig (in my humble opinion). I did score the back of the lower transom piece as this aided in forming the concave surface and I think this helped as it reduces the tension on the glued surfaces. I also left off the transom pieces until I had fixed the rear gun port pattern to avoid the possibility of breaking them, and it worked fine.
  6. Sorry, still don’t understand. You could score the kit template on the inside to help bending and you could clamp the wetted template to the kit sides to allow it to pre-form, leave to dry and then when happy glue the template to the model? Your method seems an unnecessary exercise.
  7. I trace the outline of half the ship (from above view) from the plans, transfer that to a piece of 1x4 inch lumber, cut out the half hull profile with a scroll saw, cut a few notches into opposite side, soak the gunport patterns a few hours then clamp and rubber band it to dry on my board. Can I ask, why did you not use the kit provided patterns or am I missing something?
  8. I will use the laser etched deck, saves a lot of work and time. From Bobs picture you seem to be a proficient scratch builder, so are well able to “kit bash”. Chris’s innovations are first rate and I am sure will encourage more modellers to take the plunge into wooden ship construction. Bearing in mind the cost of wooden kits and the fact that some were designed and first produced 30-40 or more years ago, it is refreshing to see a Vanguard Models using the latest techniques such as laser engraving and resin castings to bring the hobby into the 21 century.
  9. Hope Chris's next kit is something with three masts. A light frigate would be nice!

    1. Vane


      He seam to make them bigger and bigger but we will see.... HMS Bristol would be an interesting build

  10. I have built several plastic model ships and I have never used any of the ‘wooden’ deck kits. To my mind they are too bright, too out-of-scale and too brown/yellow. If you consider a wooden deck would weather and be washed down ending up a very pale greenish, greyish brown. Also remember some warships had their wooden decks covered or painted, so check you references carefully. You also need to consider ‘scale effect’ which means that a models colour will be less intense than in 1 to 1 scale. .
  11. Chris,

    Nice to know that Speedy is almost there. It will be the pear / cherry version for me

  12. Vanguard Models in the UK is a new company and is about to release their second kit which is a model of a two masted brig sloop HMS Speedy. Their first kit of an armed Reveue cutter is excellent in both design, instructions and timber quality. It would be worth a look as it will include several new innovations and also come in a range of options in respect of material. Not sure what the shipping cost to Canada would be though.
  13. BH, Thanks for the info & picture.The chain is quite small, no wonder I missed it in looking at photographs. At 1/64 scale the link would be very small, 1/64" for a 1" link or 0.4mm. I have seen people use twisted fuse wire or thin copper wire to represent chain in the past. Something you might consider? Alan
  14. Just a quick, can you explain the use of chains attached to the gun carriages. Something I've not seen before in any book or build logs for 18th century sailing ships. Thanks
  15. Just sent a pleasurable hour reading through the construction manual for Speedy.

    I am most impressed with the new innovations Chris is introducing e.g. Laser printed deck, prefabricated hatches and combings, resin cannon and more photo etch (PE) than you can imagine. Only one more innovation to go - 3D printing??

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