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About AlanDavison

  • Birthday 04/03/1946

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  • Location
    Birmingham UK
  • Interests
    model making in most of its forms, especially, boats, planes and trains in plastic, wood and metal

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  1. PE is absolutely fine by me. I think that the more detailed and accurate the design the more people will search for faults. Human nature I guess! No one and no kit can be absolutely 100%, but I also think that Chris is having a good go. Once you've rigged a canon you can hardly noice whether the ring bolt is round or flat, after all we are talking 1/64 scale (5ft4ins to the inch), if it were 1/24 (2ft to the inch) it might be a different matter. Design has to stop somewhere when producing a commercial kit. I an sure Chris could produce a true to scale kit using iron in ste
  2. I say 20 or 32 gun Frigate, there is already a 38 by way of Diana, old kit but nevertheless less the subject seems to be popular.

    I would love to see a model of Pandora, but that's a 24 gun ship!

    I would also like to see all ships boats included, seats of ease, flag lockers, stoves, binnacle etc; which ever ship you decide to kit out,  but that just me.  

  3. Hi, regarding your comment on steering I have found an article on the net called "McIntosh Boat & Shipbuilders - The era of the Scaffie, Zulu & Steam Drifter 1830-1918" ( www.glennmci.brinkster.net ) This article has a picture of the Zulu "Annie Jane" with the skipper Alex Smith sitting next to a horizontal tiller wheel which was a unique characteristic of the Zulu. The article also has a picture of a Zulu in the process of lowering the main mast, this was done when casting the drift nets in order to reduce speed and improve stability. So Chris's depiction of a horiz
  4. Perhaps ac stencil might work

  5. Bulk buying of loo rolls is a psychological thing. When we are faced with a scary things like a pandemic we feel overwhelmed and to counter this feeling we have to do something. Buying big bulky items like loo rolls helps us to come to terms with our feelings of inadequacy as we can be seen to acting, even if it is illogical. People are also bulk buying potatoes (a staple food), pasta (a long shelf life food) and flour (so they can make bread, just in case bakeries close). It’s all very odd, but again there’s nothing quite as strange as the human mind.
  6. Superphaltic glue works extremely well. Just spread it onto you wooden hull, I use my fingers, and the apply the copper tile. A little heat from a small iron or similar also helps. Once glued it’s there for life!
  7. For me it’s the etched deck every time, but I hope you enjoyed the exercise! Well done.Moving further on in the build, I’ve been pondering the anchor cable would be weighed. From the plans the anchor cable descends into the cable tier via the square holes in the foremost grating. To me this seems too soon, as the opening is very close to the bow and a long way from the capstan, so how would the messenger cable be fixed and used. Any advice from you knowledgeable folk out there would be fantastic.
  8. Yes, that’s how I did mine. The fit is so good and the ply is so bendible(?) that apart from a little wetting there no need for building a separate jig (in my humble opinion). I did score the back of the lower transom piece as this aided in forming the concave surface and I think this helped as it reduces the tension on the glued surfaces. I also left off the transom pieces until I had fixed the rear gun port pattern to avoid the possibility of breaking them, and it worked fine.
  9. Sorry, still don’t understand. You could score the kit template on the inside to help bending and you could clamp the wetted template to the kit sides to allow it to pre-form, leave to dry and then when happy glue the template to the model? Your method seems an unnecessary exercise.
  10. I trace the outline of half the ship (from above view) from the plans, transfer that to a piece of 1x4 inch lumber, cut out the half hull profile with a scroll saw, cut a few notches into opposite side, soak the gunport patterns a few hours then clamp and rubber band it to dry on my board. Can I ask, why did you not use the kit provided patterns or am I missing something?
  11. I will use the laser etched deck, saves a lot of work and time. From Bobs picture you seem to be a proficient scratch builder, so are well able to “kit bash”. Chris’s innovations are first rate and I am sure will encourage more modellers to take the plunge into wooden ship construction. Bearing in mind the cost of wooden kits and the fact that some were designed and first produced 30-40 or more years ago, it is refreshing to see a Vanguard Models using the latest techniques such as laser engraving and resin castings to bring the hobby into the 21 century.
  12. Hope Chris's next kit is something with three masts. A light frigate would be nice!

    1. Vane


      He seam to make them bigger and bigger but we will see.... HMS Bristol would be an interesting build

  13. I have built several plastic model ships and I have never used any of the ‘wooden’ deck kits. To my mind they are too bright, too out-of-scale and too brown/yellow. If you consider a wooden deck would weather and be washed down ending up a very pale greenish, greyish brown. Also remember some warships had their wooden decks covered or painted, so check you references carefully. You also need to consider ‘scale effect’ which means that a models colour will be less intense than in 1 to 1 scale. .
  14. Chris,

    Nice to know that Speedy is almost there. It will be the pear / cherry version for me

  15. BH, Thanks for the info & picture.The chain is quite small, no wonder I missed it in looking at photographs. At 1/64 scale the link would be very small, 1/64" for a 1" link or 0.4mm. I have seen people use twisted fuse wire or thin copper wire to represent chain in the past. Something you might consider? Alan
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