Borden

Build is 1:48 scale fishing boat, interested in what you have.

Thanks in advance 

Borden

Welcome

Bold move, ask questions and read

You may get frustrated but that is half the fun with your first model

This could be the start of a life long passion

Beautiful Ship and welcome

Welcome to the group 🙂

The ship that is my new project is missing the English instructions and the box is beat up. Has pictures and french instructions so can get help with translation. Lucky they print size; measurements and have drawings even if i can not read the words.

Is this your first ship? if so hope you find a copy of the instructions with the help of the customer service.

Learning every day, This is a great place for that; Welcome

Have a friend that has a exhaust fan on his work spray booth, maybe we could add this feature. send the exhaust out the wall? may try to do this and also use a mask just in case.

On 2/25/2020 at 11:49 AM, kurtvd19 said:

Not having used that brush I can't say for 100% certainty, but I routinely spray the Badger acrylics through my Sotar 20/20 and a couple of the Extreme brushes w/o any problems.  The extra fine needle may require a bit of thinning for the Badger paints.  I never thin them for my use but Badger paints are as finely ground as the old Floquil paints so I wouldn't expect any problem if thinned.  I would try w/o thinning first.

Kurt

 

Want to thankyou for your help

On 2/18/2020 at 3:21 AM, Dziadeczek said:

If you can locate a medical needle of appropriate (to your scale) thickness or other steel tubing, cut off its end and sharpen the edge. Press and twist it into the decking to obtain small circles - this will give you great looking simulations of your treenails.

like this idea at 1/48th scale a really fine needle may work; hard to get but my wife is a community health care worker maybe I have a way

Welcome we all need to stay healthy, seems to me working on our hobby is a great way to do this especially now.

On 2/18/2020 at 8:58 AM, SpyGlass said:

if you are using strip - make a jig - see sort of example here- you can enhance the holes with pencil if you like OR just let them fill with varnish which give a slight contrast

 

  deck planks

another great idea thanks!

Have been doing some research. Some museums want money to help but had some luck. They would fill the hold with fish sail to say to France sell the ship and the fish in the hold and get a ride back to build the next ship. Also learned that the hull boards were put on with tree nails from 1700 to 1770 east coast. Did not know what they where talking about so went on line for a search to learn about tree nails.

I have 6000 square nails for a future project LOL.

The variations of the design was popular around PEI, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Maine. Did not find one the same and think the model is a compilation of designs.

The boat is a two mast gaff rig in winter configuration, was designed to be sailed by only 4 men and a cabin boy. That way the cut was better between them. Went on a trip to some sunken ships one was a fishing schooner the main ribs in the center where spaced about 4' apart and had two smaller ribs in between. The ribs looked to be one peace of wood? Thought they laminated them? Also got a good look and got some pictures of the wooden windlass used on the 3 mast 100' schooner. Think the model will be a representation of the real thing and not a real ship. 

Every day a gain more respect for all the great work on this site. 

On 2/18/2020 at 1:47 AM, Thanasis said:

Hi Glenn. I don't see any blasphemy.  I prefer the shortcuts whenever I can. Proper shortcuts is another kind of skill...🙂
So, every old processor (CPU) can give you many tiny nails  with round head. Depending on the possessor you can have different sizes.
It might help you if you decide not to make just pencil marks.

Thx

Great idea for future!!!!

Will use this for some parts of the current model but just learn the the fishing schooner that is in the works was built with tree nails. Did some reading to find our what they were talking about. Thought that nails would be hard but you made that task better now how do I make all the tree nails? Maybe I can just glue the boards and fake them?

6 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

I posted this same question about six months ago and Kurt and others gave me a lot of good things to think about.  For what it's worth, for the airbrush I went with an Iwata Eclipse and an Iwata compressor.  I also bought a spray both off of Amazon.

 

I've really enjoyed using Vallejo's air paints.  I've used them straight from the bottle but will start adding a bit of flow improver because I tend to get dry tips (doesn't help airbrushing in the winter when the air is drier).  I've used Tamiya acrylics and they are really nice too.  Tamiya lacquers stink to high hell though, so venting is a good idea.  

 

For me, even when spraying acrylics I turn the vent on the booth so that the particles are pulled away from me.  You can see a slight fog when airbrushing, so I feel it's better to pull them away from my lungs (and surrounding area) and into the filter pad.

The Vallejo's air paints how thin are they? need fine material to run though the Badger 100 extra fine brush.

On 2/21/2020 at 3:06 PM, kurtvd19 said:

Use acrylics and there is no need to exhaust to the outside.  In addition to the air filter materials at the back of the booth I add a nylon sock over the exhaust tube and it catches any particals that make it past the filters.  No odors to worry about either.

Kurt

 

Do you know if acrylics run through a badger 100 extra fine photo dye brush? if so may work for my current equipment also it looks like nitrogen bottle is not needed, just the little compressor which will save some cost. 

I have a couple of photograph dual-action retouching air brushes and hope to just put very fine dies through and add some colour to the model as I go and not cover the grain of the wood. One is a Badger 100 extra fine with quick fit cups the can be swapped. Your Grex should work great, some units can work better for painting models and yours maybe one of those.

Will you use oil based paint in your brushe? or Water based paints as they may have less fumes?

Noticed that the finish used from just above the water line to the keel on authentic vintage ships was either copper clad for a off white mix painted on to stop the worms to just above the water line.

With the photo dye setup there is no fumes to worry about only over spray but it is not opaque and may not give the real authentic look.

Practice spray of each colour as I go has worked for water colour painting and photo retouching you may want to get some scrap wood to see how your colour mix will work. 

In the end we are all here to just have some fun.

Hi my name is Borden

I have worked as a professional photographer, artist and also I am a journeyman carpenter.

Have built many models plastic, metal and wood the current one is a "big step up for me".

Having a lot of fun reading on this sight, planning the project, doing museum research, going to ship wrecks and getting new tools to make success a reality.  

Turns out do not need some of the tools thought would be good, but have learned I do need others that are not in my kit.

My carpentry tools and photographic equipment will get some use when the project is ready to progress past the acquisition stage.

Hello from Ontario, Canada

Can only say WOW!

Great work of art a joy to look at!

Sounds like my Rigid miter saw, would work better for the angle cuts, beast that it is, the throat space is adjustable and it will cut very fine with the 100 tooth blade. 

I also have a sliding top table saw with angle support have to clamp all wood to the angle support with much of an angle being used on strips.

I have a sliding top table saw, not the same type but the only advantage I can see is that the wood does not slide on the table so will not get scratched when cutting it. Use my saw for fine wood work like doors, picture frame, cupboards or other fine finished work. It is heavier and not as easy to move.

Last time tried to bend planks with water and clamps, it was a balsa model on plywood frame setup; the Dutch trainer Lilian Dan by Billings' Cracked some wood doing it. This time will try to use a Shipways electric wood bender.

Adding tools and other supplies for building the model just got the wood bender yesterday. They said the unit would be $29.99 shipping would be $44.00 Canadian but only charged me $7.50 shipping so saved money! Almost did not order the wood bender but remembered Billing's model, my last project.

Got some great cloth for the sails at the local cloth store "out of the bargain bin" will stitch lines in it to look like it was sewn like the real sails also purchased some people from a train hobby shop; can repaint them to look like fishermen in 1/48th scale. Just getting more hobby tools and prep is fun.

Reading on this sight have learned what tools to not purchase and what I could have used last time.

Will take pictures of my progress when it starts to go together.

Looked at plans for the same type of fishing schooner from a PEI and a Nova Scotia museum. Went on a boat trip to view an underwater wreck; It was a 100' 3 mast schooner, The model is a smaller two mast unit but was able to see the windlass used and the main hull frame layout; Enjoying the research. 

On 10/17/2016 at 2:52 PM, mrjimmy said:

For those who have interest, there is a free book in PDF form written by a retired fighter jet pilot about Netsuke, which is miniature carving fairly close to our scales. Click on the link below:

 

http://sterlingsculptures.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Carving_Netsuke.pdf

 

Jim

great help the mini lathe using drimmel and really like the instructions on how to do things! thanks for the link

P.S. model did not include sail cloth, nails, glue, rope, a pre-made windlass (has materials to make it), or anchors. It is heavy in measurements on the drawings; maybe because they are not all to scale, forgot to add the model is very old, box is not in good shape but inside drawings are fine as are the contents for making the model. Also instructions are not in English but are detailed enough to not be a problem also my wife's friend Carroll can read french lol "can ask for translation", the English instruction pages are mostly lost, but think have all the other parts based on the instruction pictures.

Just downloaded a 3d cad program; the plans do show the shape but are not all to scale for the model. It is a kit; one of my wife Carole's friends purchased for her husband a few years ago, he decided to not build it. When the ladies got talking, Carroll was asked if she new anyone that would want a model like it and she said she did. then called my Carole and told he that she had it for me. Need to render the hull from the information I got from a museum in PEI of a ship form the same time and style, make slices and cut the ribs as the drawings are semi accurate for the design. want to improve it a little. Oval cutout on side for diorama of inside. Will repaint the people for inside to better represent the period. The extra detail of the inside is from the museum. Have cloth for sail cloth now and am still adding more tools to my kit for this project. They show everything but must expect an experience builder. I have built many models but this will be a changeling. 

Want to predraw the frame ribs using software; the kit is a pile of wood and more with drawings. This is my first frame build 48th scale. Have been adding additional tools for this project. The build is a two mast gaff rigged fishing boat from about 1750 North American built around PEI area, been reading about what is needed online. Although not my first ship, it is a new level for me; I am a carpenter by trade.