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Dr PR

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    https://www.okieboat.com

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    Corvallis, OR, USA

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  1. Thanks for the references. I have followed your build. Your name caught my eye. I had a friend many years ago in grad school named Bob Garcia. Dr. Bob now.
  2. Brewerpaul, You are lucky that you have the real thing to volunteer on! Where I live there are not many historical things to work on, and certainly no ships. We do have a pre-Civil War frontier fort, Fort Hoskins, that I have volunteered to help with, but that is a very slow project.
  3. Seahawk, I remember reading about that method of controlling the fore course yard, presumably in Chapelle's The Baltimore Clipper. It would help control the yard as it was being raised or lowered while the ship was rolling. There has been a fair amount of discussion and speculation about the double main stays on schooners on the forum. The best came from someone experienced in sailing one of the existing ships. Right now I don't remember who or where this post is. The problem is that a stay that runs from the main top to the deck forward near the base of the
  4. Gregory, I'm working on it. But if you can't wait - and it may be some time before this is continued - I recommend Lennarth Petersson's Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft. He includes very good drawings and deck plans showing the rigging of an American topsail schooner, including belaying points. Just about all of the sail variations I have shown have rigging similar to his example.
  5. I have been researching topsail schooner rigging and sail plans. I found many questions, answers and comments on the Forum, but no one place that discussed the many variations. I decided to post information that I have found to help others who are interested in these ships. This is a sail plan for a "typical" two mast topsail schooner with one topsail on the fore mast and no topsails on the main mast. Schooners with three or more masts normally repeated the sails and rigging shown here on the main mast. The sails are: 1. Flying jib 2. Jib 3.
  6. Christopher, Lennarth Petersson's Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft (Naval Institute Press, Annapolis, Maryland, 2007, 121 pages) is an excellent reference for topsail schooners. It has many drawings showing the masts, spars, sails, standing rigging and running rigging, including deck plans for where all of the lines are fastened. I highly recommend this book! The first part describes rigging for British Naval Cutter (pages 10 - 65). The second part (pages 66 - 111) is for the American Schooner. The drawings and plans are excellent. There were a lot of varia
  7. I have been doing more research into sail plans for topsail schooners. Right now this is what I am planning to rig on my model. The sails are: 1. Flying jib 2. Jib 3. Fore stay sail 4. Fore sail or gore gaff sail 5. Main sail or main gaff sail 6. Fore gaff topsail 7. Main gaff topsail 8. Ringtail or driver 9. Fore course 10. Fore top sail 11. Fore top studding sails The fore course, fore gaff topsail, main gaff topsail, ringtail and studding sails were not always raised, but were added to take advantag
  8. Brewerpaul, I have a PhD in Microbiology. When I was a kid an aunt called me "Phil" when I was nice, "PR" when I was a bit naughty, and "Pill" when I was a real terror. When I got my PhD I became "Dr. PR." Some of my friends call me "Dr. Phil" but apparently that name is already in use. The sterns of these ships has been a bit confusing. Texts talk about "square tuck" and "round tuck," but like so many functionally illiterate writers they seen to think everyone understands what they mean and give no clear illustration or description of what they are talking about. Then
  9. Alan, There are other videos of the firing of this gun. In the video posted above you can see a vertical piece to the right of the hull siding. In other videos from a different angle this part was a flat sheet parallel to the hull siding. The splinters from the shot ripped the sheet to pieces, showing the effect of the splinters on anything inside the ship. The cannon ball was unlikely to strike a crewman because it was relatively small, but the spray of splinters was much larger and caused the most damage to the crew. One thing to consider - and was briefly mentioned -
  10. I have a Paasch double action airbrush and it has worked very nicely. I really like the double action - you can control the air volume and paint flow separately. This allows me to cut off the paint flow and still use the air flow to spread any runs that develop and to dry the paint. With single action brushes the air flow controls the amount of paint. I have a small diaphragm type compressor and it works fine.
  11. At sea the last thing you want is loose ropes. Those pretty coils would slide all over the place as a ship rolls and soon would be a useless tangled mess and tripping hazard. Coiled ropes were used only for showing the ship in port, and not for everyday use. Also, I never heard the word "flake" used with lines. Lines were "faked down" on the deck in coils (rare) or figure eights to prepare them for running out, as when the ship pulls up to a berth and the mooring lines have to be run out swiftly without tangling. This is 19th and 20th century US Navy and Royal Navy terminology.
  12. Thanks for the comments guys. I haven't been doing much building this summer - too many other things are distracting me. But I am thinking about future work and a few minor changes to what has already been built. Please keep in mind that I am learning as I go along, and there are a few things in the existing build that I think are not historically correct. Here is a list of things I would do differently: 1. The stern and transom are a more modern design than the early to mid 1800s revenue cutters. When I first started this build I was thinking of building a modern topsa
  13. Paul, One problem with single planked kits (just about all older kits were single plank) is that a few years down the line, as the wood responds to changes in temperature and humidity, cracks can appear between planks and they can warp so some edges are higher than the neighboring planks. I solved this problem by painting the inside of the planked hull with a thin epoxy paint used by aircraft modelers to fuel-proof balsa engine mounts. It soaked into the wood of the planks and bulkheads and the whole thing becomes rock solid. This is much better than trying to glue the
  14. Hi Bruce. Welcome from not quite as far south as Mark. I have seen a few live steam model boats - like the African Queen (Google "African Queen live steam model"). I think you may have to pick an engine and look around for a kit it can be fitted into. You might get information about suitable kits on the engine manufacturer's web site. Look around for live steam web sites. Or you can scratch build. There is a fellow who occasionally shows up at the Toledo, Oregon, boat show with a really cute 1:1 scale live steam boat that would be easy to model.
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