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  1. The aft gun port doors/lids posed a different challenge. The top rail curved upward to center so the top edge of the gun port was not tight against the rail as on the side ports. I thought the type of hinges I used on the side would be a bit too crude, so I came up with a different plan. The hinge straps are the same as for the side hinges. But instead of using brass tube for the fixed part I fashioned the hinge from the same 0.005 inch thick brass sheet as the hinge straps. First I cut a strip 0.150 inch wide, and bent about 0.030 inch of the end at a right angle. Next I "tinned" this end angle with solder. I am using a solid core tin-lead solder and a separate liquid flux. The 0.150 inch wide strip was wrapped around a 0.034 inch drill bit to bring the angled tinned end around against the strap. Then I reheated the solder to complete the hinge loop. I placed the strip in a vise with the loop just above the vise jaws and used a small file to cut a 0.050 inch gap in the center for the hinge strap. Then a piece of 0.03125 diameter brass rod was soldered into the loops to make the hinge pin. After this the hinge straps were located on the hinge pin and the soldered ends were reheated to close the loop around the brass rod. For this to work correctly you have to be very sparing of the solder and flux, reheating the tinned ends quickly and removing the heat before the solder can flow and solder the hinge strap to the hinge pin. The 0.150 inch wide brass strips were cut off about 0.085 inch from the hinge loops and then the remaining strip was bent around a 0.0625 inch thick piece of metal. This formed a "L" piece that would fit around the 0.0625 inch thick planking around the gun port opening. Two very shallow 0.150 inch wide notches for the "L" part of the hinge assemblies were filed into the top edge of the gun port opening, spaced equally to either side of the port opening. A pair of hinges were glued into these notches. Then the port door was inserted into the opening and the hinge straps were glued to the door. This worked nicely and made a fairly good looking set of hinges, although the macro photo shows I could have been a bit more careful in aligning the hinges at the top of the opening. But these things are tiny and precise positioning is difficult! Because these brass parts are just glued to a pretty small part of the wood I wouldn't bet on how strong the join is. With the doors closed the hinges are locked between the wooden parts. Even though the hinges might work properly I won't be tempting fate by opening these port doors. Edit: Actually these hinges do work OK. we finally got good weather and I am painting the hull with clear lacquer to seal the wood grain prior to applying the colors. I opened the doors a bit so the paint wouldn't glue the doors shut.
  2. Glad I can help. I certainly am getting a lot of good ideas from others on this forum!
  3. I have been working on the channels and chain plates, and the gun port lids/doors. The channels were fairly straight forward. They were fitted to the curvature of the hull and pinned with short brass nails into the bulwark supports. I examined drawings for 19 Baltimore schooners and revenue cutters and determined the spacings for shrouds at the deadeyes relative to length between perpendiculars. Deadeye spacing is related to mast height, and that is related to hull length. I had no data for mast heights so I used the hull length as a reference. For a 68 foot between perps ship the forward deadeyes were about 2 feet apart and the rear deadeyes averaged about 2 feet 2 inches. At 1:48 this is 0.5 inch for the four forward shrouds. For the three aft shrouds I placed the forward two at 0.5 inch and the spacing between the aft two at 0.6 inches. There will be ratlines between three of the forward shrouds and two of the aft shrouds, all spaced at two scale feet at the bottom. The blue painter's tape marks the waterline. Chainplate length was determined by the channel placement and the distance to the waterline. The deadeyes supplied with the kit were pretty good. I used the CAD program to work out the spacing and lengths of parts. I used 0.0185" brass wire to create the chain plates. Mondfeld's Historic Ship Models was my guide for the design of the chain plates. The only problem I had making them is that very small parts like these have an annoying habit of being someplace else other than where you expect them to be. I spent a fair amount of time retrieving them from the floor below my work table. I will attach them to the hull after it has been painted, The chain plates and deadeyes will be painted black - whenever the rains stop and we get some sunny dry weather!!! The gun port lids/doors were made of two pieces. The outer door was cut and shaped to fit in the port opening, resting against the rebate inside the port opening. Then the lids were sanded down to contour with the hull sides. A separate 0.040 inch piece was cut to fit into the port opening and then glued to the inside surface of the door lid. The doors fit snugly into the openings. The hinges for the gun port doors were a bit of a problem. Because the ports were open up to the top rail there was nothing on the hull planking to attach the hinges to. I had to attach them to the top rail - but how? I could have faked it and just glued the doors in the open or closed position, but I wanted working hinges. Eventually I came up with a plan. The hinges were made of three pieces of 1/16 inch OD brass tubing and a piece of 1/32 inch brass wire. Two 1/10 inch pieces of brass tube were soldered to the ends of a 0.525 inch long piece of brass wire, with a 0.225 inch piece of tubing in the middle. Two 0.050 inch wide pieces of 0.005 inch thick brass strip made the hinge straps. These were formed around a 1/32 inch drill bit with one end tinned with solder. After these were placed around the hinge pins the short tinned end was reheated to solder it to the longer end of the strap. The cap rail is 1/16 inch thick. The 1/16inch diameter hinge tube is fitted into a recess carved into the edge of the rail, with the hinge straps glued to the gun port doors. For now the hinges are just fitted and not glued into place. First I need to paint the stripe between the top rail and the rub rail below the gun ports. I will fill the gaps around the hinges with Squadron white putty and sand everything smooth. Then the top rail, hinges and port doors will be painted black. I suppose the hinge straps should have bolts fastening them to the doors, but the smallest nails (7 mm) in my stock have 0.055 inch diameter heads - a bit wider than the 0.050 inch straps. I don't want to have to file down dozens of these tiny pieces. I'll look around to see if I can find pins/nails with 0.032 inch diameter heads, but I may have to be satisfied with no bolts in the straps. Personally, I think this hinge arrangement is a bit hokey, but it works. Unfortunately, 35 years ago when I built the hull I didn't plan ahead for the heights of the guns in carriages, size of the gun port openings and method of hinging the gun port lids. But, as I have said, this is a learning experience to prepare for building more accurate models. I am having fun learning about revenue cutters and solving problems building the model.
  4. I first saw "super glue" at a grade school assembly some time in the 1950s. I have avoided using CA for hobbies simply because every time I have looked through my supplies the CA tubes have turned into solid chunks. It doesn't keep after the tube is opened. Other glues don't deteriorate so fast. However, we have used CA in manufacturing. In one case it was perfect for fastening parts of a specialized microscope so the lenses never moved out of focus. A bonus was that we could heat the assembly to 100 degrees Celsius and it came apart easily. One word of warning - I once decided to use CA to glue the frayed ends of a draw string. quite a bit of glue was wicked up and the heat of curing started the cord smoking. I used water to prevent it from igniting. Too much of a good thing.
  5. I have been working on the hull details to get it ready for painting. We have had some nice days lately, but I have spent most of them bike riding, hiking and picnicking. February was unusually rainy and cold so I had a bad case of cabin fever! However, I did get a chance to paint some of the deck fittings. The new work included cutting gun ports, adding the waterways and placing scuppers. The picture above shows the gun placements I decided upon. These positions allow for ample recoil without striking deck fittings, and there is no carriage gun aligned with the pivot gun. There are four ports along the sides and two stern ports. When I paint the hull the band below the top rail will be white and gun ports will be black. In addition to the four actual ports there will be another six false ports - just painted black rectangles the size of the real gun port lids. These photos show details of the gun port framing and scupper placement. The ports are lined to form a rebate for the port lids and the lower cill serves as the bumper for the gun carriage. There is no upper cill because the bulwarks are so low the top rail just clears the gun barrels when the guns are run out, as explained in an earlier post. The scuppers were a source of frustration. I screwed up royally. First, placing the cart before the horse, I glued the trim strip onto the hull at a distance below the top rail that "looked right" according to the kit plans. But when I drilled the holes for the scuppers the trim strip was higher than the edge of the deck, causing the scuppers to angle upward from inboard to outboard. That was bass-ackwards! Furthermore, I drilled 1/8" holes - 6 inches at 1:48 scale, and then realized that this looked too large (4 inch would have been better). The solution was to place a short piece of 1/8 inch diameter brass tube in the openings to get smaller diameter holes. But before doing that I pried the trim strip away from the hull and cut the scupper openings to angle downward through the waterways and overboard. All this required some careful drilling, filing and trimming with a 1/8 inch end mill bit to countersink the brass tubing so the bottom of the opening was at deck level. A 0.040 inch thick 1/4 inch square backing plate fit around the outer end of the tube. Fortunately, after the holes were elongated this piece covered the entire hole on the outside of the hull. On the inside the elongated hole above the brass tube was filled with Squadron white putty. You can see quite a few white putty patches in the pictures. Anywhere the fit between pieces is not perfect I rub in some putty. Finally, the 1/4 inch square backing plate was trimmed tangent to the bottom side of the brass tubing, and the trim strip was glued back in place below the scupper tubes. Well, this build was intended to be a learning exercise, so I guess I am learning things not to do next time! This picture shows the 6 pounder carriage guns and gun ports, and also shows how the pivot gun is mounted high to clear the bulwarks. When the pivot gun is run out port or starboard to the full limit of the slide, the end of the barrel is about 1 1/2 scale feet inboard the cap rail and about 1 1/2 feet above it. The blast from the gun would clear the rail without damaging it. Here are some pictures showing the deck details. The stern pictures show possible locations for the 6 pounder guns at the side and stern ports. The arrangement shown here would never have been used, but a gun could be hauled aft and fired outboard to get a four gun broadside. Or guns could be fired through the stern ports during a chase. In either case the quarter deck would be a bit crowded, especially with the rigging for the tiller and the main boom. The next step is to add the channels for standing rigging. I saved that for last so they wouldn't be damaged with all the handling necessary to cut the gun ports and scuppers. Then everything will be painted with sanding sealer and any gaps sealed with putty. After that paint colors will be applied. I still haven't made up my mind what color the inside of the bulwarks will be. The gun carriages will be brown. I might even paint the area on the exterior between the cap rail and trim strip yellow, but I think that may have gone out of fashion by 1815, in favor of white.
  6. Castos, The "rabbet" is a groove in the keel that the first plank (garboard strake) fits into. It looks to me that the 45 degree angles that you are referring to are the rabbet. Before going too far you must be certain that the vertical and horizontal lines are absolutely perpendicular. Just rotating to eliminate the "list" will not do this. If these lines are not "square" the hull will be warped. Are you planning to use the hull cross-sections to make a 3D model of the hull? Or do you plan to just cut out the bulkheads from your drawings? I would caution you that no matter how carefully you draw the hull lines they almost certainly will be a bit out of true. Some will be slightly "fat" and others "skinny." The result will be a wavy surface on a planked hull model. In some cases you can correct this by sanding down the high spots, but you risk sanding all the way through the planks. If you create a 3D CAD model of the hull using your section lines you can examine the rendered hull by rotating the view and changing the lighting angle. Imperfections will appear as a wavy surface. An even better way is to create horizontal (waterline) contours on the hull - just the lines of intersection between a horizontal plane and the hull surface at different elevations. Then hide the hull and examine the intersect lines by looking at them length wise (bow to stern, etc.). If any of the sections are too wide or too narrow it will cause the waterlines to be wavy instead of being smooth curves from bow to stern. Find the erroneous sections and correct the width. Create new waterlines and repeat the process until all are nice smooth curves. Then you will have a correct set of hull sections. This can be a time consuming process, but the result will be a good set of hull section lines that will produce a smoothly curved hull surface without ripples or low spots.
  7. I am continuing work on the anchor handling rig. The kit plans called for just gluing the two pieces of the catheads together at the angle. That didn't sound very sturdy to me so I decided to use a bridal joint with a mortise cut on the horizontal piece and a tenon on the vertical part. I made a 1/16 inch dowel of the same wood to pin the two pieces together. The result is a very strong joint! I also used a similar dowel to pin the two sheaves into the slots in the cathead. The left image shows the "eyes" of the ship. The catheads have been mounted on the rails and bolsters fitted around the hawse for the anchor cable. The boat davits have also been mounted on the stern. The next picture shows the anchor cable routing. The cable was normally stowed in the cable tiers below the midships hatch. The anchor was stowed on the rail just aft of the catheads, suspended from the cathead and railing without the anchor cable attached. When the anchor was needed the cable was brought up, lead through the hawse and attached to the anchor. A short fishing boom was attached to a sturdy deck fixture and used to lower the anchor so it hung from the cathead. The cathead tackle was detached to drop the anchor, with the cable feeding out of the cable tiers, or perhaps the cable was first faked down on deck to ensure clean running. The anchor was raised using block and tackle attached to the fore mast or on the lower spar on the mast. A messenger line attached to the running block was lashed to the cable and the messenger hauled in. When necessary the anchor cable could be secured to the bits while the messenger was repositioned on the cable. When raised to the side the cathead tackle was attached and the anchor was hauled up. The fishing boom was used to haul the anchor flukes up to the rail. Then the anchor cable was detached and stowed below. A heavy wooden piece was attached inside the bulwark to make the inboard part of the bolster. A book on wooden ship building said the hawse opening should be 2 1/2 times the diameter of the anchor cable. The hawse opening was shaped to minimize the curvature of the cable as it passed through, with a radius two to three times the diameter of the cable. The outboard part of the bolster has rounded edges to the hawse opening. The opening curves around from the inboard side and down to lead the cable out with a gentle bend. Some ships had metal inserts in the hawse opening to reduce wear on the bolster. This configuration is a blend of several drawings and photos.
  8. Gregory, That's an interesting idea. Do you first close it down to the desired diameter - by chucking the proper size drill bit? The jaws do not have cutting edges, but I can see how they might "worry" wood into the desired cylindrical shape. **** I am doing everything with hand tools, and some things are quite a challenge. I am retired now, but when I was working I had access to a full machine shop. I really miss all those great tools! I can see that before I take on a really big project, like the 1: 96 USS Oklahoma City CLG-5, I will need a lathe and milling machine, and a place to put them!
  9. Gregory, This was my first attempt to "mass produce" parts, so it probably isn't the most efficient method - but it worked. 1. I designed the gun carriages in a CAD program I have been using since 1988 - DesignCAD 3D MAX. I had to fiddle with the dimensions for reasons explained in an earlier post. Then I printed a dimensioned drawing to work from. **** 2. For the carriage cheeks (sides) I cut rectangular "blanks" of boxwood sized to the largest dimensions of the parts. I made several extra pieces in case I screwed up some of them. 3. I placed all of the pieces together side by side in a small vise and trued up the ends with a file so they were exactly the same length. 4. Then I glued strips of wood across the ends. This made one single "cheek assembly" to work on. 5. I have a very old and pathetic Dremel drill press, but I have learned to make it work for most jobs (a milling machine would have been MUCH nicer!). I set up a guide that I could slide the cheek assembly along. An end mill bit was chucked in the Dremel and it was carefully positioned for each cut. I adjusted the height and bit position by cutting into scrap wood until the cut was correct (very tedious and time consuming - Oh, for a milling machine!). Then I slid the cheek assembly along to make the same cut in all the pieces. 6. This setup adjustment was repeated for each successive cut. 7. The grooves for the cannon trunnions were carved with a small round file, and the large concave cut on the bottom was cut with a larger file. I suppose I could have done these cuts with the Dremel using ball end mills, but I didn't have the right sizes. 8. After all the cuts were made I used the end mill in the Dremel to carve away the strips that were glued along the ends of the parts to free up the individual cheeks. 9. I put a small (0.020") drill bit in the Dremel and set up stops to position individual cheeks. This allowed me to drill the holes for the wire loops in the same place in each part. I didn't show the loops for the gun tackle in the pictures, but they will be there. **** 10. The carriage axles were done in a similar manner. Front and rear axles were the same size. I needed rectangular cross section beams to tie the carriage cheeks together, with axles for the wheels protruding from the ends. The wood was 1/16" thick boxwood cut into equal length strips about 3/16" longer than the axle beams should be. After gluing a strip along the ends of the bunched pieces to hold them all together (as above) I used the end mill in the Dremel to carve notches in each end top and bottom leaving the proper length beam with a 1/16" square bit of wood protruding from the ends for the axles for the wheels. 11. Then the strips glued across the ends were removed as described above. 12. I needed a way to turn the square axles into cylinders. I made a cutting tool from a 1/16" inside diameter short brass tube. I cut notches in one end of the tube on opposite sides of the tube diameter. These were angled to create cutting teeth. 13. This tool was pressed over the ends of the square axles and rotated to cut away the corners and leave round axles. It worked! I have also used this tool to make 1/16" diameter dowels to serve as pins for the sheaves in the catheads and boat davits. 14. The holes through the axles for the axle pins were drilled with a 0.020" diameter drill bit in a pin vise. **** 15. The other parts were fairly simple and were just cut from wood strips using a small saw and miter box and shaped with a file if necessary. I hope you could follow all of this. If something isn't clear just ask and I will try to explain it better.
  10. Carl, Thanks. I used the triangular file because it centered nicely in the groove between the two soldered washers. The soldered pair is about 0.040" wide (1 mm) and the smallest round file I have is about 0.032" wide (0.81 mm) at the extreme tip - and that is a small file only 3 inches (76 mm) long! Only a short portion near the tip is small enough diameter to work making the groove. I don't know if it would have centered as well as the triangular file. I suppose I could use the triangular file to start the groove and switch to the round file to finish it. Once the rigging is in place you won't be able to see the sheaves anyway.
  11. I have been working on the larger deck details. I want to get all of these fittings ready for when it warms up enough to go outside and paint. The knightheads and bitts were fairly simple, after I decided how to build them. The parts supplied with the kit seemed pretty grotesque and oversized. I took the dimensions from drawings of schooners and revenue cutters of about 80 tons. The pumps were an interesting small project. I used eight pieces of HO scale railroad ties for the wooden barrel and cut the metal pieces from thin brass. I will paint the metalwork black. I built up the support under the circular pivot gun rail and shaped it to fit the camber of the deck. A couple of scuppers were cut into the support to allow the rail circle to drain. The photo on the right shows one possible configuration for the 6 pounder gun battery. The guns are spaced every third opening between frames. I have also experimented with spacing at every fourth opening. In either case the number of ports will be more than the number of guns. I plan to place dummy gun ports along the hull outboard of the deck house. There will be two stern gun ports. I will paint the bottom of the hull white. Between the waterline and the wale will be black, and the rail will be black. The stripe on the bulwark between the wale and rail will be white, with black gun port covers. The dummy gun ports will also be black. The inside of the bulwark will be brown or yellow. Most of the deck fittings will be white. I have started working on the catheads for the bow and boat davits for the stern. Again, the parts in the kit are pretty crude. They have only one sheave and an open slot in the end that the sheave fit into. Every drawing I have seen shows two sheaves. I made the sheaves by soldering together two 1-72 brass washers. I chucked them in a drill and used a small triangular file to carve the groove.
  12. Richard, I have been researching anchors on Baltimore schooners and revenue cutters. I am pretty sure they carried anchors. They were lashed to the ship's side, usually near the bow and cat heads. The anchor cable (rope) was removed and stowed below decks. When they needed to drop the anchor the cable was brought up and attached, presumably with the free end attached to something for the drop. I am also pretty sure most of the smaller ships (about 100 tons or less) did not have winches or capstans. I have found several references to raising the anchor using block and tackle rigged to the fore mast or the lower spar on the mast. Line from the lower block was attached to the anchor cable and then the cable was hauled in section by section. For ships with a capstan a continuous messenger loop was run around the capstan and lead forward where it was fastened to the anchor cable. The messenger was then pulled in with the capstan and the loop returned to the fo'c'sle. As the cable came in the messenger loop was spliced to it again and again as the loop was pulled around the capstan. In this manner they managed a fairly continuous pull on the cable. When the anchor broke the surface the block and tackle rigged to the cathead was used to hoist the anchor to the cathead. Then the anchor cable was unattached and stowed. A portable boom was rigged to the base of the fore mast or some other sturdy foundation. Another block and tackle was rigged to the end of the boom. When the anchor reached the cathead I think they first used the boom to raise the anchor flukes to the rail or deck, and then a line was wrapped around the anchor stock or flukes to secure the fluke end to the deck/rail. Then the tackle from the boom was attached to the top of the anchor and used to release the anchor from the cathead, or at least to take the strain off the cathead tackle. After this the top end of the anchor was lashed in place. Apparently the cathead was not used to support the anchor in it's stowed position, at least on some ships. When they wanted to drop anchor the tackle from the cathead was attached to the anchor. I guess they used the anchor boom again to release the anchor/flukes from the rail and lower it beneath the cathead. The anchor cable was then attached. My guess is that this method was used because it was cheaper than providing a winch or capstan, and it did not take up deck space when the anchor wasn't being handled. Also, the smaller ships carried smaller anchors that could be hoisted with ordinary tackle. Lots of guesses there, but it is based upon some early shiphandling texts that I found, especially the midshipmen's guides to ship handling from the 19th century. **** Two boats?! I know that some ships carried a boat slung over the stern on davits. The Mantua Albatross kit has these davits and a horrible example of a boat pressed out of sawdust or something, that is badly warped. I get to build a new boat from scratch. I guess two boats could be nested on the davits. Also, I have seen drawings of boats slung over the side on davits, similar to whaling ship boat stowage. These davits could be portable, so they wouldn't show on ship's plans. I guess if you worked on one of those ships back then you knew how things were done so there was no need to put everything on the plans.
  13. I think the earlier posts just about said it all. Here are a couple of photos of the windlass on the modern Lady Washington replica. As you can see there is a pawl to stop reverse rotation as the windlass is turned. Also, the holes for the handles are staggered and in three rows, so three people can be turning. You can see how two people can be turning while the third is repositioning the handle to keep the motion going fairly smoothly. Here is a close-up of the pawl. Not much happened quickly on a sailing ship. Normally they had hours to prepare for leaving port, waiting for the tide. If they dropped hook at low tide the current would carry the ship up stream. As the tide went out it would carry the ship back downstream over the anchor cable, so they just had to winch it in. As someone mentioned, some smaller ships did not have windlasses or capstans. I have read that anchors were raised using block and tackle rigged from the lowest spar on the fore mast. I have been researching this because plans for many schooners and revenue cutters do not show a windlass or capstan, and I have been trying to figure out how they raised anchor and what they did with the anchor cable. My first ship, a 112 foot inshore minesweeper (USS Cape MSI-2) had a hand cranked windlass to raise the anchor and chain. We definitely didn't enjoy doing that! It was a very slow process and even the CO took turns raising the anchor. It might take an hour to haul it in. An now a fairly modern lost anchor story. Inchon, Korea, has some of the largest tides on Earth - 30 feet or more. I have been in harbor when the water receded several city blocks between low and high tides. During the Korean War a US destroyer (don't remember the name) dropped the hook in Inchon, and it was dragging. The inexperienced skipper then dropped the other anchor. Big mistake! As the tide changed the ship spun around the anchor chains, twisting them together. Guess what? You can't hoist the anchors if the chains are wrapped around each other! The ship received orders to get underway IMMEDIATELY! They had to break the chains and depart without both anchors. That really pissed off the fleet commander. He told the ship it couldn't go into port until it had anchors. The ship contracted with a Korean company to recover the anchors, but the ongoing war delayed the operation. Eventually they had the anchors and chain on a barge waiting for the ship to return. The ship's orders were to go into Inchon, recover the anchors, and then immediately leave port and steam directly to the US west coast, non stop. The ship had been at sea for many months before it got into port. One of my crewmen was at the pier when the ship came in to tie up. He said that before all the lines were over, when the ship came within a few feet of the pier, sailors began going over the side and running down the pier! Captains do not want to lose anchors - it doesn't make a good impression on promotion boards!
  14. Wow! Valeriy, you have made great progress since I last looked in on this build.

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