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Barryc

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  1. Hey Tom, One never knows who's going to turn up where! As I've come to expect, very nice work! Barry
  2. Well Tom, I see you're a very diverse modeler like myself! Well done, my Uncle would have been proud. He was present on the Missouri for the formal surrender after being present on the USS West Virginia on the 7th of Dec, 1941. Barry
  3. Fantastic build sir! I have the PT-109 kit and look to RC it. I have always liked the Type 38 as opposed to the S-100. lFollowing along ,Looking forward to seeing the finished boat!
  4. Mr Maros, This is one of the top 5 and the most realistic renderings of the Revell Constitution I have "ever" seen! Simply Put, Fantastic!! You don't have a build thread posted some where do you? Barry
  5. Yes, 1/16 RC M1A1 with the T.U.S.K I upgrades. The complete build to date is found here. It's been going for 4 years and 10 months now., still a ways to go! Barry https://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=201&t=18880
  6. Hi sir, I do a lot of soldering using Tix solder for strong joints that will not be under a lot of stress. It has a low melt point but is extremely strong. https://www.micromark.com/Tix-Solder-Pkg-of-20-Three-Inch-Sticks I use a silver based solder for joints that will be under potentially a lot of stress. https://www.micromark.com/Stay-Brite-Silver-Solder I have found that taking a small piece of apporiate (for need) and pound it flat. I then cut a piece to cover the expected solder joint and place it between the properly cleaned sides to be solder. Clamp the solder between the ends and apply a small amount of flux and heat. Clamping can be tricky as you want to hold the pieces but not create a "heat sink" that will prevent proper heating. Usually not a problem when using a Torch. I use a combination of Restrictive, Iron and Torch all for different approaches and techniques. I hope you find this helpful. Barry
  7. Here in the US they were formally known as "Smoke Lifters" by most builders and railroads. Barry
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