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Everything posted by KHauptfuehrer

  1. Sprits'l yard crossed, jib boom and flying jib boom horses installed, bowsprit horse attached at one end, jib boom and flying jib boom guys, and traveler guys attached. Traveler guys will not be attached to the catheads until the upper stays are rigged and the traveler rings are in their final position. It is probably a good idea to install all fittings to the catheads and knight heads now, before I permanently glue in the bowsprit.
  2. Excellent work. I saw a full replica of that vessel tied up at the marina in Poughkeepsie some years back.
  3. Thanks, Tom, for your interest and your suggestion. Actually, I was hoping to avoid coloring the line if possible, hence my ordering of line from Syren rather than using the line provided by Bluejacket. However, if .003 tan linen thread is not available, say from Joanne's, I may have to color the Bluejacket's white line, or just use the more bulky .008" line from Syren. When you color the line with shoe polish, do you dip it, rub it on, etc.? Is there a specific color or brand that you use? Is it easy to get a consistent color throughout the full length of the line?
  4. I am back at again. I am following the procedure of rigging from fore to aft and from low to high. Progress has been slow, because I am learning as I go. Much time has been spent staring at the model and thinking "Now how do I do this?". Bluejacket does not provide a fairlead for the bowsprit, so I made my own, modeling it on the current one. I did not fully realize at the time that in doing so, I would also be committing to rigging the bowsprit and jib booms using the current configuration. I suppose if I had seen the following drawing at that time, I might have taken a different co
  5. I have a video job coming up the post work of which will keep me busy for a while. Connie will be in ordinary for the next month or so.
  6. Foretack boomkins completed. I had intended to omit these, as the instructions do not show them. Then I found a scale drawing of them in the Marquardt, so I decided to give it a try. Boomkins to be glued in after all fittings have been installed on the bowsprit and jib booms, the bowsprit has been installed on the model,and the gammoning has been completed. This concludes the major woodworking on the model, and so, is a major milestone for me. Now to begin the rigging.
  7. I just finished making up the yards. Fittings to be installed after standing rigging has been completed and before crossing the yards and doing the running rigging. I wish these yards were more photogenic, but when I hold them in my hand and look at them, I am fairly pleased with how they came out considering I have never done this before. There are cleats on the main topsail yard. I just neglected to set up the yard to show them when I took the pic. I found a design in the Marquardt for the foretack boomkins, so I think, before I start the rigging, I will have a go
  8. Thanks David for your suggestion and kind words. I will definitely give the plumbers tape a try. I imagine that any hardware store would have it. Regards, Kurt
  9. Work continues on the yards. Here is a photo of the spritsail yard before painting, so that what I did with the fairleads can be seen more clearly. Hopefully this will work. They are a bit out of scale, but no more so than the ones on the Revell model. I could not figure out how to set the strop around the thimbles (1/16" bullseyes from BJ with the centers reamed out) then pass it around the yard keeping the two perpendicular to each other without adding to the height too much, so the strop is of wire (steel annealed 34 gauge, .010" from BJ #902), and is in two pieces, one that goes around
  10. Thanks Nic! That looks great, very convincing. My Bounty paper towels have all kinds of weave detail embossed on them, so I cannot use that to simulate the smooth look of leather. The brown paper towels that I have seen in public restrooms would work, I think. What brand of paper towel did you use?
  11. I found an alternative to the ribs/trucks parrel in the Marquardt that just might solve my dilemma. A leather clad truss parrel (13). I wonder if 1mm shrink tubing from Micro Mark would work. Might be worth a try. Meanwhile, work continues on the yards.
  12. Thanks Jon for the drawings! I do have a bit of time to decide on this while I finish making the yards and do the standing rigging. One of my criteria for deciding how much detail to put into a model is "Can I keep the detail in scale?". Thanks Bill for you kind words. They are much appreciated!
  13. Looking ahead to when I cross the yards, I see a conundrum about which I would like your thoughts and advice. It concerns the topsail yards and their associated parrels: On the left is an illustration in the instruction manual showing the size of the parrel assembly. On the right is a photo of the real thing. I was struck by the extreme difference in size. Thoughts anyone?
  14. Here are some pics of how I built the fore yard. 1. 3/16" x 3/16" square stock planed to an octagon as I did for the topmasts. Stock painted black to keep track of which faces have not been planed, and therefore, are certain to be true. As i get more skillful, this step may no longer be necessary. 2. Yard sanded to round by hand by holding it against sandpaper on the table with one hand and rotating it and sliding it back and forth with the other. Center marked on the ends to keep things as true as possible. Center left octagonal of course. 3. Bat
  15. A start made on the spars. I tackled the spanker gaff and boom to start with. When it comes to the construction of the yards several alternatives present themselves as I look at the different sources. The BJ plans show an octagonal center section for all yards. The Revell model also shows this, although one needs to look very closely to see that in the upper yards. The Marquardt shows an octagonal section on only the lower two yards on each mast, and no octagonal section for the spritsail yard. This is also what I see in photos of the ship. I think I will do
  16. Great photo. I would need an endoscope to get a view like that. Very neat and clean. I thought about having lights in the gun deck, but could not figure out how to do it. Congrats! Thanks also for the kind words. Regards, Kurt
  17. Beautifully done. Having struggled with the same kit for 11 years, I am in a position to appreciate what it took to get to this point and have it look so excellent!
  18. Flying jib boom fitted. I was intimidated by having to taper a spar in two directions, since I could not figure out how to do that with a drill. It turns out that I can do it by hand reasonably well. Now I am more confident about tackling the yards.
  19. Here is the complete main mast assembly with the Revell parts: t'gallant mast, t'gallant cross trees, royal mast, and sky pole. A considerable amount of work cleaning up the castings and adapting them to the model was necessary, so it was not a total bailout. Note the cheek blocks which have been added to the topmast head. I realize that my incorporating these Revell parts will raise more than a few eyebrows here at MSW, but I am happy with the result. Others may differ, but I think they blend well with the wooden components. I did incorporate the provided metal t'gallant
  20. Thanks so much Jeff. I so appreciate it! I agree with Nic. I will dry fit the Revell parts and see if the result does indeed look right before deciding. If, as I said, the assembly sticks out like a sore thumb, I will have to reconsider. The same applies to the prospective cheek blocks. Will the model look better if I do not attempt these? I have come across several discussions about how much detail to have in a model. For me it all comes down to how well I can expect to execute that detail. If I lose more than I gain where the final appearance of the model is concerned, th
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