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Posts posted by KHauptfuehrer

  1. I am back at again.  I am following the procedure of rigging from fore to aft and from low to high.  Progress has been slow, because I am learning as I go.  Much time has been spent staring at the model and thinking "Now how do I do this?".

    Bluejacket does not provide a fairlead for the bowsprit, so I made my own, modeling it on the current one.  I did not fully realize at the time that in doing so, I would also be committing to rigging the bowsprit and jib booms using the current configuration.  I suppose if I had seen the following drawing at that time, I might have taken a different course.




    At any rate, I have attached the bobstays, bowsprit shrouds, and the jib boom and flying jib boom martingale guys to the bowsprit assembly, and temporarily rove these through eye pins at the hull to get some idea of what they will look like when permanently attached and tensioned.




    I was hoping not to use the big eyepins, as they are clearly out of scale, but I found that the heavy line I chose for the bobstays would not pass through the eye of the smaller ones.  These will be blackened.

    Bluejacket has recently began offering rigging line which is .003" (#1667)in black and white.  I highly recommend this line. It is easy to work with, is not frizzy or fuzzy, and generally makes setting up seizings which are not bulky or out of scale possible. Unfortunately it is offered in only in black and white and not tan, so I cannot use it for running rigging.  The bulk of the standing rigging will be done using Syren line.  It looks like rope, is not frizzy and is easy to work with - another winner from Chuck Passaro.  As you can see, it is dark brown rather than black, so the colors do not match.  However, I do not find the difference particularly jarring.  The heavier line from Bluejacket has a smooth "served" look which, in my opinion, makes it suitable for things like collars, slings, and trusses.  As you can see, I have removed the bowhead coverings so that I can access the bowsprit for gammoning installation.  The seats of ease are also temporarily glued in with rubber cement and will also be removed for gammoning.  When installing the stem knee, I extended the gammoning slot a lot to give me flexibility in its location.  Hopefully, I did not do anything when installing the grating which will be a serious obstacle.





  2. Foretack boomkins completed.   I had intended to omit these, as the instructions do not show them.  Then I found a scale drawing of them in the Marquardt, so I decided to give it a try.




    Boomkins to be glued in after all fittings have been installed on the bowsprit and jib booms, the bowsprit has been installed on the model,and the gammoning has been completed.

    This concludes the major woodworking on the model, and so, is a major milestone for me.  Now to begin the rigging.

  3. I just finished making up the yards.  Fittings to be installed after standing rigging has been completed and before crossing the yards and doing the running rigging. I wish these yards were more photogenic, but when I hold them in my hand and look at them, I am fairly pleased with how they came out considering I have never done this before.  There are cleats on the main topsail yard.  I just neglected to set up the yard to show them when I took the pic.




    I found a design in the Marquardt for the foretack boomkins, so I think, before I start the rigging, I will have a go at it.  

  4. Work continues on the yards.  Here is a photo of the spritsail yard before painting, so that what I did with the fairleads can be seen more clearly.  Hopefully this will work.  They are a bit out of scale, but no more so than the ones on the Revell model.  I could not figure out how to set the strop around the thimbles (1/16" bullseyes from BJ with the centers reamed out) then pass it around the yard keeping the two perpendicular to each other without adding to the height too much, so the strop is of wire (steel annealed 34 gauge, .010" from BJ #902), and is in two pieces, one that goes around the thimble and into a hole drilled in the yard, and the other that goes around the yard.  I anointed the strop/thimble assemblies with liquid CA, so hopefully, the thimbles will not pop out of their strops during rigging.  Whether this was genius or folly remains to be seen.



  5. Looking ahead to when I cross the yards, I see a conundrum about which I would like your thoughts and advice.  It concerns the topsail yards and their associated parrels:




    On the left is an illustration in the instruction manual showing the size of the parrel assembly.  On the right is a photo of the real thing.  I was struck by the extreme difference in size.  Thoughts anyone?



  6. Here are some pics of how I built the fore yard.



    1. 3/16" x 3/16" square stock planed to an octagon as I did for the topmasts.  Stock painted black to keep track of which faces  have not been planed, and therefore, are certain to be true.  As i get more skillful, this step may no longer be necessary.


    2. Yard sanded to round by hand by holding it against sandpaper on the table with one hand and rotating it and sliding it back and forth with the other.  Center marked on the ends to keep things as true as possible.  Center left octagonal of course.


    3. Battens made from BJ's planking stock, in this case .020" by 1/16".  As far as I know, BJ is the only company that sells planking stock this thin, making it perfect for these battens.


    4. View from aft showing the back fish.


    5. Cleats installed.  Jeer cleats built up using pieces of 3/64" x 3/64" square stock from BJ.  Seams filled with Elmer's wood filler.  Stop cleats made from bits of 1/32" x 1/32" stock.


    6. Completed yard painteds.


    I will  install fittings when I begin the running rigging.  The yard is made entirely from basswood.  I plan on doing other lower yards in the same way.  Upper yards will be made from dowels if I can find any that are straight for the necessary length that I will need.  As  always, perfection is an elusive goal, but I am fairly happy with this my first attempt at making a yard.

  7. A start made on the spars.  I tackled the spanker gaff and boom to start with.



    When it comes to the construction of the yards several alternatives present themselves as I look at the different sources.


    The BJ plans show an octagonal center section for all yards.  The Revell model also shows this, although one needs to look very closely to see that in the upper yards.  The Marquardt shows an octagonal section on only the lower two yards on each mast, and no octagonal section for the spritsail yard.  This is also what I see in photos of the ship.  I think I will do this if I can lay my hands on dowels that are not warped to use for the upper yards.  Failing that, I will make all yards from square stock, in which case, I might just as well leave the centers octagonal. 


    The Marquardt shows the lower yards the same size on the fore and main masts.  The plans and the Revell model show different sizes for the fore and main lower yards. I will follow the plans and the Revell model.  Having plastic yards to measure with my calipers will help me with the tapering will be a big help I thi


    As for the battens, the Revell shows thick rounded battens while the Marquardt shows flat thin battens.  Also, the Marquardt shows narrow battens which leave more of the yard visible while photos of the ship show wider battens which have beveled edges ( I am not sure I can pull that off at this scale).  I could use bead stock from BJ for rounded battens, but I think I will use .020" thick planking stock from BJ instead.  Also, the Marquardt and the Revell show no battens on the fore and aft faces of the octagonal section, but with a long rubbing fish instead on the aft face.  The plans do not show this, but the Revell does, so I can replicate that.  I believe there is a batten on the forward face currently on the ship, but I cannot tell for sure from the photos.


    Right now, I have a piece of square stock cut to an octagon to use for the fore course yard.  I colored the wood with diluted black paint before doing the planing in order to keep track of which faces are really true.

    I will post the result when I have finished this yard.

  8. Here is the complete main mast assembly with the Revell parts: t'gallant mast, t'gallant cross trees, royal mast, and sky pole.  A considerable amount of work cleaning up the castings and adapting them to the model was necessary, so it was not a total bailout.  Note the cheek blocks which have been added to the topmast head.



    I realize that my incorporating these Revell parts will raise more than a few eyebrows here at MSW, but I am happy with the result.  Others may differ, but I think they blend well with the wooden components. I did incorporate the provided metal t'gallant mast caps into the assembly.    In my mind the decision came down to whether or not I could execute the top masts as well or better than what you see here.  I believe that I could not, and, as I have said before, the final appearance of the model is more important to me than bragging rights.   Obviously, I will need to exercise the same care in tensioning the upper stays as builders of the Revell kit would due to the flexibility of the plastic masts.  By the same token, they are less likely to snap off.

    Incidentally I expect to make up all the spars.  The lower yards will be made from square stock.  Some sources show octagonal center sections in the upper yards, some do not.  I will not.

  9. Thanks so much Jeff.  I so appreciate it!


    I agree with Nic.  I will dry fit the Revell parts and see if the result does indeed look right before deciding.  If, as I said, the assembly sticks out like a sore thumb, I will have to reconsider.  The same applies to the prospective cheek blocks.  Will the model look better if I do not attempt these?  I have come across several discussions about how much detail to have in a model.  For me it all comes down to how well I can expect to execute that detail.  If I lose more than I gain where the final appearance of the model is concerned, then discretion becomes the better part of valor where additional detail is concerned.

  10. Topmast cross trees installed.



    Next task is to make up the topmast caps.  When they are fitted, I will decide whether or not to construct cheek blocks.  An illustration in the instruction book shows them but does not give scale or measurements.  The plans do not show them.  The Revell model also does not show them.  The Marquardt does show them with a scale, so I can figure out their size from that if I decide to take the plunge.  Looking at photos, I see that the ship has them at present.   It all comes down to how much the mast caps overhang the mast heads.  I may give it a try if there is enough room to make them without having them stick out laterally beyond the mast caps.  Apparently there is an option, as there is disagreement among the different sources, again.


    I have desprued the top gallant mast/sky pole unit, the royal masts, and their cross trees from the Revell model, and will prepare, paint, and dry fit them on the model to see how they look.  They exactly match the arrangement  shown in the plans.  I will go over them with 400 grit sandpaper to take off the gloss, and see how they look when painted.  If they stick out like a sore thumb, then I will have to choose between accuracy and neatness, and consistency.  I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.  The parts are more flexible than I would like, but once the royal mast and the skypole are glued together the the double arrangement shown in the plans, they should be a lot stiffer.  Making those 1/4" high octagonal top gallant hounds, and the 3/32" high octagonal rigging stops is just more than I can handle.

  11. I have completed assembly of the main topmast cross trees.




    1.  Cross trees to be made from 1/16" by 1/16" basswood stock.  Strips cut a lot longer than needed so that they can be bent in the Micro Mark plank forming jig, and so that when the holes are drilled, they will not be near the ends where accidents can happen.  Center marked to insure that the curve of all cross trees will match.

    2.  Once these holes are drilled, the bent strips are cut to length the ends rounded, and liquid CA applied to strengthen them as Nic at Bluejacket suggested.  Trestle trees made from 1/16" by 1/8" basswood stock and notches cut.  You can see a line at the bottom end of the one on the right where it split as I was cutting the notch and had to be glued back on.  Quarter round stock included in the kit make up the bolsters.  They are a bit oversize but I can live with that.

    3.  Cross trees tapered.  This is where the CA liquid reinforcement may have made all the difference.  The unit assembled.


    I am now working on the fore topmast cross trees.  I will attempt a different way of constructing the trestle trees which I will post if it is successful.  If it is not, the method will be the same as seen here.  I am trying to figure out how to do the significantly smaller mizzen cross trees assembly.  The t'gallant cross trees look near impossible to do at this scale with the tools I have.  The Marquardt leaves them out altogether, showing brackets to hold the t'gallant mast and the sky pole together.

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