Guillermo Madico
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Everything posted by Guillermo Madico
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The picture above seems to show The Charles Morgan with lots of drop planks. It actually shows the lines of coper plates in the middle of the whaler restoration. The picture bellow shows Charles Morgan in bright sunlight after coper plates and paint were removed. Both pictures could be found at the Mystic Sea Port Museum with a lots more of contemporary real scale ship building and planking with modern and not so modern tools. Really nice stuff. PD I beleive the gentlemen in the picture are part of the restoration crew
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My two cents Everything could be scaled down except for the wood grain. The real ship builder could bend the plank a lot easier than the modeler does, because the grain in the modelers plank is 50 times the scale of the real thing. Any oak or maple grain in a real ship will be impossible to reduce to sale. Even boxwood scaled up to real life dimensions will translate into a grain not suitable for planking. It probably will be like building a ship of the line out of bamboo. The modeler works around those limitations and Chuch has found the best way to do it (having tried all of the above and never being happy with the results) I say more cutting and less plastering makes the modeler more proud of his work
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Hello Chuck You mentioned the apex point at the bow. At the stern what will be the reference point to bend the plank? Great video. G.
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Just received a copy of the plans, Excellent quality! highly recommended.
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Thank you Chuck. I like the idea of combining different molding profiles. The gun ports in the contemporary model are quite small almost just surrounding the canon/carronade. Could you comment about that? Beautiful work!
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Chuck could you comment on the plank with the narrower strips at the base of the gun ports? In the plans the small strip (lower one) seems to extend forward. First time I have notice a drop plank in the fore bulk guards. Was that a common practice? the drop plank under that whale looks really nice. As you had mentioned before, it is the right place to place it.
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Hello Chuck About red transparency; this is a solution that have given me excellent results. The wood stain industry pursue transparency, no brush strokes, homogeneous color and a smooth sheen finish. All the attributes we need for red in the gunport etc. I mixed water base polyurethane (Varathane, 266228 MATTE) matte finish with Crimson red acrylic (Winsor&Newton, Galeria) at 2/3::1/3 volume to volume. I prepared the surface with water base pre stain wood conditioner (as if it was going to be stained). The first cover with the mix was dark magenta/pink with a lot of transparency. The second cover turned deep red magenta no brush strokes. The third cover was perfect Crimson with nice transparency and clean finish. Each cover dried quickly within minutes. Guillermo
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Thank you Chuck. Now I could use my computer to zoom in into the details during construction. Perfect!
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Thank you Rusty I was about to order some ebony. I have seen using black stain for leather but I have not tried it.
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Nice! Thank you for the information.
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Excellent work Sir. I like your selection of woods. I am starting this model now. This may be difficult to answer but if in retrospective is there anything you will have done different? Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
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Excellent work. Could you suggest best sources for brass materials?
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nice job. I like the painting of the figure head a lot it just looks like boxwood. awesome job
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This kid is a tuff one because there are not good reference points indicated in the plans. Expend as much time as you can at this step before you start planking. I found that the diagonal peace in the back sticks out too much once the filler block in the back is shaped correctly. All peaces need to align correctly otherwise all future measurement for the ports will be off. The reinforcement square section peaces are a better reference for alignment than the cut of the joints between frames and keel. Find out where the water line should be in each frame to be sure all is where it needs to be. It is important to have all frames at 90 degrees to the keel exactly. The quality of the materials is this kit are excellent except for the keel and frames than are not very accurately cut at the joints with the keel. Be patient, plan ahead and enjoy. Good luck
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Good idea. Have you try to do the cutting and welding first and them turning them with the file?
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the radius of the red circles will need to be precise. Maybe some way to allow for some wobble will prevent it from become stuck my two cents
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nice job maybe you have mention this before but how do you build the small black clamp? I think is just so cool
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Nice idea. have you try to use other power supplies like those in the wall for printers etc
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I just started mine Looking forward to learn from your experience
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