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Dr PS - Paul Schulze

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Posts posted by Dr PS - Paul Schulze

  1. I assume the prototype had black and yellow shields else I would have gone with more colors. The boat builders did a fabulous job and they had fantastic skills for the tenth century. 
     

    I finally finished the sail. Using the following steps :

     

    - Cut sail out

     

    - Mark sew lines and edge fold line with lead pencil

     

    - Cut corners for folding

     

    -  Fold sail edges over twice using fabric glue and a hot iron

     

    - Mark and ‚Äúpunch‚ÄĚ small holes¬†in sail edge every 1/2‚ÄĚ for needles. These holes will also be used to attach sail to mast.¬†

     

    - Use needle and .35 rope around sail edge

     

    - Use same process for sail ties

     

    8133EC60-AC56-467B-91CC-73C3BFFE7F36.thumb.jpeg.10bd07ce9a8d4dd6a9439611bca56fda.jpeg

     

    1A36DBEA-035D-4A07-B27F-DC1B906091D3.thumb.jpeg.2cb039da2e51f3cbf814964b2218cdee.jpeg

     

  2. I thought about using acetone to free them up, but allowing the strakes to follow their natural flow would result in shortening the strakes at the stem. The only solution then would be to cut new boards  I believe you are correct in saying the shields will hide small errors. I have not had this issue before but I have learned I have to be more careful. 

  3. 22 hours ago, Louie da fly said:

     

    The ship is looking good by the way and that mast step is particularly nicely done. But I noticed in one of the photos you're about to get rid of (the view from above)  there seems to be a small "kink" in the planking on the right near the bottom of the picture (second frame from the bow - or stern - who can tell with these double-ended ships?). Or is that just a fault of the photo?

    Yes there is a small kink on that side near the stern.  I noticed it later after I was finished planking and did not know how to fix it except to remove several layers and  reshape the frames as needed. That option was nixed as I have been using CA glue for the strakes.  I should have been more careful and watched the fairing as I proceeded. 

     

    Thanks for your comments, Paul 

  4.  I have not posted in a while but progress was made. The following photos and brief comments will take this log up to date. 

    Finished Keel all stained. 

    91BD5C75-136D-4D1A-99CD-ACF4E0EA58B9.thumb.jpeg.64d1198dacb3b36c605517a40ec5f9d2.jpeg

    Below, the keel, frames and false deck were simultaneously assembled and glued. 

     

    86D0116D-4B31-468F-AB88-D954D2934984.thumb.jpeg.c17c1cfe705acb5c35b845ddcd4dc114.jpeg
     

     

     

    Next the garboard is fitted and glued. 
     

    5932DA21-C320-4F85-85BB-D864D5382CB4.thumb.jpeg.88e516f2106a8bde5db6a1b4b7e130ff.jpeg

     

    Then other strakes were attached. 
     

    8BABB1D4-BC14-465E-955D-9A1C8D291AB2.thumb.jpeg.77b2ecfee518e9275be83eaba7689e09.jpeg

     

    EC74ABF9-3ED4-472C-87FD-0F98B39B3054.thumb.jpeg.17bd26e1e430e025cd298acbfe22c80d.jpeg

     

    4A239445-75C0-4685-B3AA-596971F3D43C.thumb.jpeg.ee57520f20c1f6e5a6de9bf471e815f1.jpeg

     

    FB3CE249-5C70-4BA2-B376-EF5ABD8FF62C.thumb.jpeg.5b53f963d53f4db58d18c82ae1f10ca3.jpeg
     

    0885ACD3-0232-4105-9798-60C24DAAE0D3.thumb.jpeg.b14eeeb6f0b55f4040ba0fe7d7535fa0.jpeg

     

    The deck and interior. 
     

    93285A06-A3DE-4B6D-A2A8-76120B81232E.thumb.jpeg.e9f1dae0c62962a59c6418835aba7b8d.jpeg

    The mast foot is fashioned using a dremel. 

     

    8099010B-FD39-42BB-80CA-6CF7703934B4.thumb.jpeg.f0fac8cdf49c6822a687ca9b3471277e.jpeg

     

    15FAE63F-DDCB-4669-86B3-59F8D648217B.thumb.jpeg.d9f0146aadeb98aa6a39646a35b12f38.jpeg

     

    3CB84D30-2E48-4819-BAFD-84FF9C0644CE.thumb.jpeg.1853d4d73aafcebd0fc94dc90c863abb.jpeg

     

    The deck was stained with a light oak stain. The mast foot, shown, was stained and attached. The rudder, hand sanded, is shown ready for staining. 

    84AB8070-2EE1-4A40-A446-9A1B74697C19.thumb.jpeg.22e589d5bf1de1d4fcb87adc06793852.jpeg

     

    A9EE36F3-AE5F-4E13-BE0F-C03B5D703C1C.jpeg

  5. I am trying to figure out how the strakes on a clinker built ship or boat overlapped (the sud) at the stem and stern.  I find it possible to bend strakes from having sud to not having sud as you approach the stem and stern but I feel this may be incorrect.  If the strakes do overlap at the stem and stern, how are they joined at the stem and stern posts?  Are they beveled or notched in some way?  Is there an article or post on this which I might have missed.  

     

    Thanks 

  6. 6 minutes ago, Jonathan11 said:

    Johnathan, thanks for the translation. I looked at a bit of it and it looks like a fantastic read. 

  7. 6 hours ago, Srodbro said:

    Just a suggestion:

    I found the jig in this build log listed below very useful. Even using the jig, with the keel and frames quite plumb and square, aligning some of the planks from one frame to another was a challenge. 
    Nice color choice. 

    Gokstad Viking Ship by jack.aubrey - Dusek Ship Kits - 1:35 Scale

    Thanks for your suggestion. I am not sure what I will do as yet. 

  8. Well, I have finally started the build. After reading the instructions, I have decided to  follow them for assembling the keel, frames and false deck. I think the false deck should properly align the frames. Some others  have found success building jigs to aid in frame installation and alignment. First I drilled the required holes in the stem and stern posts. 15507F5D-F0C1-4418-8230-7875A0D2F48C.thumb.jpeg.ef6050fa96c3fb53ffbb61310870ed6c.jpeg
    Next, I glued the two keel pieces together¬†between wax paper held down by a ‚Äúsad‚ÄĚ iron. Sad irons were fire heated clothes irons.¬†EC85E50A-BE15-475E-8660-05023890A51E.thumb.jpeg.54f37b554daf7e8016f8bbac0201572f.jpeg0DE9B313-E25B-4289-8D73-5C9F8E104D3B.thumb.jpeg.3b82e7526cb5156f508d03d112deb980.jpeg

    Then the finished piece was stained Kona color  9B524BDB-7F6D-416B-B229-055033B83D5C.thumb.jpeg.a58896297637136e735bd9951730a68e.jpeg

     

  9. 1 hour ago, Osmosis said:

    You will find the devices used to hold a hull while planking range from the fanciest store bought and home made clamping devices (some made custom for only one type of ship) to an old dirty pillow. Like most things in this hobby it all depends on you budget and what you are comfortable with.

    The pillow approach gives me an idea. I think a homemade ‚Äúbean bag‚Ä̬†would work well. Thanks ūüėé

  10. 1 hour ago, ccoyle said:

    I'm not clear on what you are asking, and I don't know what is meant by "frame knockouts or strong back." What kit are you working on, and can you post a picture.

     

    BTW, I have completed four POB hulls and never used a keel clamp or building board -- have always just held the hull in my lap while I worked (and tempted to add "and I have the scars to prove it," but actually I've never really had much trouble).

    A previous build, Model Shipways Armed Longboat, had frames which were like shown below. 92C69856-DABB-4114-A0E9-B098F55B4320.thumb.jpeg.d1dc27dfb7ef04211b5678574df1eef9.jpeg
    My current build, Dusek Gokstad has neither the frame centers intact (to be removed or knocked out later) or the attached ‚Äúplank‚ÄĚ or ‚Äústrong-back‚ÄĚ running from stem to stern.¬†

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