Dr PS - Paul Schulze

Arthur, I have decided to put the KC on hold for now as I have decided to do the New Bedford Whaleboat.  This is a POF build and should be fun and not take two plus years to complete.  I am leaning toward projects which can be completed in a reasonable amount of time so that frustration with teadium does not set in.  A near example of this was rigging the Cutty Sark model that I had from my younger years.  It took a long time and involved a lot of repetitive actions.  I wanted to finish it and bore through it all.  A POF build should offer some new challenges and be instructive. 

Dave, thanks for the article list. I have not purchased the NRG Model Ship Builder and Ships-in-Scale archives as of yet. Do you know if any of these articles you mentioned contain more information  on building techniques than, say, Chuck’s practicum on the Sultana?

56 minutes ago, GrandpaPhil said:

Copper tape gets a nice patina on its own after a couple of months.  Mine patina’d even under the sealant I put on it.

Thanks for the information. 😎

Tiger, I’m glad others might be able to be of some value from our work. In the same way, I hope to benefit from others for my next build. That’s the real beauty of MSW logs - what goes around, comes around. I hope your build goes smoothly. 😎

Paul

4 hours ago, Jaager said:

Consider this also,  if you copper, and the material that has been supplied has simulated nails, replace it with flat stock.  To avoid the new penny look, age it.  A flame treatment works,  but to get a dependable bond - the glue side needs to have the oxide layer that the flame produced = removed.

There are chemical aging agents.

Is it possible to use chemical aging by applying Metal Black with a Q-tip or brush after the copper is applied?  I would not want to have the glue run or loosen the plates,

I wonder why the included instruction manuals still favor carving the bulwarks and refer to cutting them off only as an option?  Is it perhaps just left over from another age??  It seems that the carving machines could be easily refigured or else perhaps they made a big run some time ago and have a big stock.

18 minutes ago, Jaager said:

The 1992 article is on a CD for sale on the NRG store page.

Thanks, just ordered it.

Thank you Jaager and Betaqdave, I believe you have laid a good case for cutting the bulwarks off. I was somewhat hesitant to do this as it seemed drastic and definite. Do either of you or does anyone in the community have a copy of the articles Betaqdave mentioned who could make me a copy since I am sure they are no longer in print?  I would also be willing to purchase a copy of the magazines.  Thanks again for your help as I will probably cut them off. 

I am considering building the Model Shipways Kate Cory.  I have looked at a number of logs and Model Shipways model ship instructions and practicums and find two approaches to carving.  They are to either leave the bulwarks on and carve away or cut them off at the start and add them later. The practicum on the Sultana is fairly clear that the bulwarks on the raw hull should be taken off. The Kate Cory instructions say cutting bulwarks off is an option.  The Phantom, Dapper Tom and Elsie don't seem to mention an option.  My question is this, from experienced solid hull builders, what is the easiest and/or best approach to to take?  My previous experience with solid hull builds was an old Scientific Models Cutty Sark which had no bulwarks on the raw hull.

Yes they are. I have the Kate Cory which had a badly milled solid hull which they just replaced. This probably will be my next build especially since it was given to me by my son-in-law. 😎

Sea Hoss, that was from an extra kit that I had parted out. 

Thank you Ken. I appreciate your design work on this kit. I hope many others will enjoy this build as well. 

Looking teal good 😎

I want to thank everyone who looked in on this build as your comments and encouragements were greatly appreciated.  I want to especially thank Arthur for his help as we both moved through this build.  I also appreciate Chuck letting me use his friezes to replace the photo etches.  This has been a fun and valuable learning journey for my first POB build.  I want to encourage other beginners to try this boat or Chuck's Longboat as you can finish them in reasonable time and learn much. 😎

Very nice build.  I may give this one a try sometime.

Thanks all 😎

22 minutes ago, CPDDET said:

Nice work Paul! She looks great.

Thanks 😎

Model Shipways 18th Century Armed Longboat is finished!

Decided to make my own bucket. Glued small wood strips around suitable dowel then drilled most of dowel out of center. Prototype bucket would be 10 inches in diameter. 

In order to make uniform rope coils, I used this simple construct. The side wood pieces glued on the dowel keep the coils from sliding down. The enlarged hole facilitated tying the rope off.  After coiling, diluted white glue was applied. After the glue was dry, the knot was cut away. 

I can’t take the credit as the idea originated from Chuck in a post to Arthur. Then Arthur directed me to the reference 

 Go to entry #55 and you will see where I got my approach. 

Sea Hoss, I think you are right. I addressed this somewhat on my build. Not sure it is historically correct but from what I can gather, a lot of the armed longboats were retrofitted longboats. If that is so, I think we should have some wiggle room for invention. 

Looking good 😎

I’m not done with the rigging yet but I  decided to spend time and get the oars done. I carved and painted 13 oats just in case one didn’t turn out. They all turned out fairly well so I tied two bundles of six as per instructions.  I’m not sure what to do with the thirteenth oar. Maybe I’ll mount it on the display base I want to make. 

After painting, I sprayed the oars with the matte finish in order to seal them. 

Tiger, I don’t know if you read my solution (post entry  #74) to the center seat problem, but I simply cut the aft board off of it and replaced it with a wider one.