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John Gummersall

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Everything posted by John Gummersall

  1. Hull is complete and deck glued. All pretty straight forward. I will say (as others have) the attaching the stempost to the keel is a challenge. The curve is not correct for the hull. In my case I had to cut the stempost and use a piece of the keel to reshape it to match the hull. If you look close you will see the joint in the stempost.. About the best I can do with my limited skill. Also below is the bottom and side views Started working on the boiler room. Only hitch here is the instruction call for the door frames to be 1x3x34 Sapelli. Problem is the wall are 1x4. Best to use the 1x4 Sapelli wood, but if you use the 1x3.. just make sure it line up with the outside of the doors,, and no one will ever notice Engine room is the same story. Use the 1x4 Sapelli. wood for the doors. Below is the stained Engine Room.... I committed a beginners error,,,, I did not test out the stain on a sample piece of wood... I used the same stain I used on other woods so did not think to sample... End result is stain that is way too dark (for my taste) and a little blotchy. Not quite sure what I am going to do about it. One option is to replank the Engine room - and all would be OK,,,, other option would be to go in complete opposite direction and paint the boat white.... Not sure I have seen a real life steamboat that was natural wood color,, most seem to be white... So that is an option I an considering,,,, At that point it was just a matter of using the template over the Sapelli to cut out the arch. It takes some time, but I like the final result. Next on to the WaveCatcher... WaveCatcher is 1.5x5 Sapelli. In order to bend it, I soaked it in water for about 5 min and then used a soldering iron to bend the wood to match the bow of the boat. It was then bent around the bow and "rubber banded" until it was dry
  2. Wherry is in it's final home... Similar to the boats in the picture above it. The rope that came with the model, while is probably to scale, looked a little "thread like". Instead I opted for a candle stick wick. Wick used to make candles. It is braided and looks pretty good. The fish net is an extra strong hair net used by female equestrians with long hair... That too looks pretty good to me as a fish net. Anyway, I really enjoyed this build, but being a novice builder, I did make some mistakes. My main issue was mentioned earlier when I only lined up the plank marks at the bow and stern. I did not think the mark in the middle of the plank mattered. While the exterior of the wherry looks good, some of the planks on the inside are too close or too far from the next plank. Next planked ship I will pay closer attention. Also as mentioned earlier it is not real obvious, to a beginner, the bow and stern of each plank... especially when they are all in water soaking. I would recommend, if you are not sure as to the bow and stern of each plank, to mark the bow and/or stern of each plank,,, just so you do not make the same mistake I made and install them reversed. Have fun,,,, I did,,,
  3. Anna, I just started a build of the King Of The Mississippi. While I am a ways behind your progress it looks like it will be a fun build. Looking forward to your next post John
  4. I am a relatively new modeler and plan to take on the King Of The Mississippi. Main reason I am attempting this is due to the vast number of build logs on MSW. I have studied them all and have been intrigued by some of the ingenuity and customization that has been done by the various shipbuilders. Even the logs have have not been completed were invaluable showing various stages of the builds. Besides that,,,, the King Of The Mississippi just looks like a cool model. The version of "the King" I have is 2017.. Maybe some of the issues that earlier shipbuilders encountered have been corrected by Artesania.... But I guess that is probably too much to wish for,, So here we go... Note the date of 2017 Box contains three shrink wrapped items First part of hull structure is pretty straight forward. Parts fit nicely with only a little sanding to make the bulkheads seat better. The instructions call to glue in the upper stern board to the slanted portion of the false keel. Note below that I did not do that at this time. Turns out the slant in the slanted portion of the false keel does not match the slant in the bulkheads. Thus later on when you install the bulkheads the upper stern board does not match the bulkheads. Others have pointed out this issue and later had to "fiddle" to make the upper stern board match the bulkheads. Instead I decided to glue on the bulkheads and then make the upper stern board match the bulkheads Note the upper stern board not installed. I do not have a good picture, but below shows the bulkheads installed and the upper stern board lined up with the slant in the bulkheads. You have to insert a small piece of wood between the upper stern board and the slanted part of the false keep to take up the space, but this is a much easier way to deal with this issue than gluing in the upper stern board before the bulkheads. Ignore that extra piece of wood glued to the upper stern board... Initially I thought the upper stern board was too long so I cut it down,,,, Mistake on my part.. No big deal as the mistake will not show once the hull has been planked On to planking the hull Lay the first row of planking down the exact center of the hull and let this dry. Make this a straight as possible as it is the base for all the other planks Note the planks are paper thin and very easy to bend,, Should not be a problem bending the wood. No need to pre-heat or steam. Since there is a bend and it does take some time for the wood glue to dry, I choose to lay about 5-6 planks (at a time) in the stern part and later (about 20 min) bend them over and glue them to the hull. I could have used CA glue, but I am the world's worst CA glue'er and usually get it all over the model. However I have since found the the CA gel works great and much more forgiving,,, One note,,,,, There are supposed to be 30 hull planks - 6 mm in width... While there are 30 planks, they are only 5 mm in width. As such there are not enough planks to have full planks on both the bottom and hull sides. Since the hull planking on the bottom will never see the light of day on the completed model, that is where you want to have planks with joints. Basically take some of the planks that extend beyond the bow (picture above) and butt them together to make some of the planking on the bottom of the hull. In my case I ended up with three bottom planks that were made up of several smaller pieces. The pieces butt together very well and you can hardly see the joint. In theory you could do this on the side bulkheads but best to do this with the bottom hull planks that will never be seen. In the end I used 18 planks to cover the bottom and have 12 full planks to cover both side bulkheads Side Planking,,,
  5. Added some paint,,, Inside is off white Seats and topsides are grey View from the top Add the oars Just about done,,, need to add the bow ring and tow line,,,, and then do a little touch up paint,,,,
  6. Plans call for a 1/16" gripe along the bow where the planks meet. To me that looked a little thin so I choose to make the grip out of 1/8" wood. Plans also called for the inside and outside rub rails to be 1/16" bass wood,,,, again to me it looked too thin, so I used 1/8" basswood instead The extra width also (to me) allows for the pin pads (for rowing) to better fit the edge of the boat. The 1/32" x 3/16" stringers were supposed to run only in the middle of the boat... I decided to run them from bow to stern. Again to me they just seemed to look better running the entire length of the boat Below shows the ornamental cleat added to the forward edge of the stern seat The middle two seats were intended to be thin planks. But since the ornamental cleat was added to the forward edge of the stern seat, they just seem to thin. Below show I added a 1/8" strip to the forward and aft edges of the bottom of the two seats. The seats will look better (stronger) when they are placed into the boat. Normally at this time, the seats should be glued into the boat. I have them out at this time for painting,,, Painting comes next,,,,
  7. Planking complete..... Planking went very easy,,,, Probably too easy as I see to have an issue by not really paying attention to what I was doing,,, 🙂 The planks have a very subtle difference (to me anyway) as to which end is the bow and which is the stern. Will all the planks soaking in water as I pulled each out to glue to the jig I have a feeling I glued a few of them reversed,,,, ugh. From the outside (which is all we see as the wherry is being built) all looks good. I matched up the jig markers on the planks and all seemed OK. But when the boat was taken off the jib it is obvious I had reversed a copule of the planks. Planking on the inside has a couple planks overlapped too much and some overlapped less than should be. I might suggest next time to maybe mark each plank as to the bow and stern. It is too easy reverse some of the planks if you are not paying attention. A rookie mistake,,, but then again I am a rookie,,,, This is my first model with planking,,, making mistakes is how we learn.... Hopefully I learned something there and will pay more attention to my next planking model 🙂 Anyway,,,, need to sand the outside and then move on to the inside of the wherry....
  8. Danny, I am sorry, I did read the top of the Build Logs for Kits page titled "Starting and Naming your Build Log"... But looks like I did not read it carefully enough. I now see what I was missing in the build log title. Thanks for putting up with my poor reading of the "Starting and Naming your Build Log" documentation John
  9. Danny, Thanks for the information... I now see it in "Small Craft" section and index. I am sorry, I just assumed my log was going into the Wooden Ships section. Never thought to look in other sections - For the future, when I create a new log, how do I know what section it goes into? Is there some field I missed that would indicate what section the log is created? Thanks for your time - I appreciate it John
  10. Danny, I joined MSW back in early January. At that time I started a log for the Lincolnville Wherry. I see since then the Index has been updated several times, yet my log has not yet shown up in the index. I was just curious if I failed to update some field that is preventing my log from being included when the index is rebuilt? If it is just a question of your time, then no hurry on my part... I totally understand. I just wanted to know if I missed some step in creating my log, Thanks for your time John
  11. Planking going along very well,,, should complete the planking in a few days,,, I am not working at it full time Die Cut planks are perfect.. As the instructions indicate, soak for a few minutes, position the plank at the bow section, and then let the plank go over the stern to be trimmed later. As I noted in earlier posts, I am the world's worse CA "glue'er"... I am not worried about the CA glue marking on the planks as the boat will be primed and painted in the end.
  12. New Stem from BlueJacket showed up 1 week later so I am off to the races,,,, Below is a picture showing the marks on the stem piece I mentioned earlier,,, as you can see, these marking were a whole lot easier when they are marked before they are glued to the stem. The plans call for drilling holes in the Stem, Keel, and Stern sections and pinning these sections to the jib... In the past I have never had very much luck pinning model pieces to a jig... It seem pins usually come loose or fall out,,, I just do not have the knack for it. Instead I used a couple clamps and just clamped the Stem and Stern pieces to the jib. Seem to hold pretty well, but is loose enough to when the planks are glued on, I can wiggle the frame some to insure I do not accidentally clue the planks to the frame. With CA glue being as running as it is, and me being as sloppy,,, Not being able to wiggle the fame some, I am sure I would have glued some of the planks to the jig. Below you see the clamps on the Stem and Stern sections and the first plank glued on.
  13. I have decided to take on the Lincolnville Wherry... Seemed like a good one to start with....being a rank beginner,,,, This is my first build log, so hopefully I will make it informational and interesting for other beginners that would like to build the Wherry... Be sure to read instructions carefully and try to build the entire model in your mind before you begin. Wherry is built from a jig, and instructions start out explaining the jig build process and showing pictures of the completed jig. One issue (if you did not read the instructions first) is that, after the jig is built it mentions that you should mark the Stem, frame J5, and the transom pieces with a pencil where the tops of each planks are to be placed. These marks show the position of the planks before gluing. It would be very difficult to use the sketches and mark the frame J5, and the transom pieces with the jig completed. I suggest marking the frame J5, and the transom pieces before you build the jig Below is the completed jig. You can see it would be very hard to mark the Stem, frame J5, and the transom pieces from the completed jig, Die cut parts for the Jig were very good. Only a little sanding required to make the part fit the jig diagram. Next step is building the Keel and backbone. Ran into my first issue. Note in the next two photos that the stem piece (K1) does not match the plans Note the Stem (K1) piece seems to be about 4 mm short. I called BlueJacket and brought the issue to their attention and they said they would cut a new piece and send it out. I know,,, you more experienced folks probably would have blown right by this and either built an entire new part or added the 4 mm piece at the end, but I wanted to follow the plans and at least bring this to the attention of BlueJacket,,,, At this point I am in limbo waiting for the new stem piece to arrive,,, Hopefully it will show up in the next few days,,,, 🙂

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