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Matt D

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    Commerce Township, Michigan

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  1. That’s a really nice looking kit. I hope you enjoy building it and sharing your progress here. I will pull up a chair and follow.
  2. Of that, I am certain! Plus, this model will be on the build board for a long time because there's a ton of work to do before planking! I suspect that I will need to build a hull contoured cradle for it to sit in at that point, and that replace the 90° stands with cradle pieces. Chuck, it's a long ways down the road, but I thought I read in your log that there will be a longboat for Winnie. Is that true? If so, I'm really looking forward to it.
  3. I made the build board and test fit the frame assembly in it. The right angle brackets are made from scraps and held together with epoxy. I used factory corners from my plywood to ensure that they are accurately 90 degrees. The one in the picture below is the best one of the bunch.
  4. I have cut out all of the bulkheads and dry fitted them to the false keel. It’s very gratifying to see this frame set coming together. Bow section parts bow section assembled Mid ship section assembly Mid-ship parts Here is the bow and midsection just loose fit together This is the aft section parts This is the aft section assembly. next, I’ll built the build board. I’ve made the right angle stands and cut out the board. I just need to assemble the pieces.
  5. Hi Alec. I don't know if you can do anything about it, but if you look at post #80 in my Virginia build log, you'll see that the foremast is pitched too far back. It's on page 3 of the log and you can link to it from my signature below. That caused me to have to shorten the gaff on that mast. I think some other builders have had the same problem, which leads me to believe it's an error in the false keel. You might want to push your masts in and lay the model on the plan as I show in my picture to see where you are there. You can still get to the false keel if you need to file a little away and fill it in on the other side. It might be easier to fix now than it would be down the road.
  6. Yes. I have some large scraps of 3/4" birch plywood hanging around my basement that I will use to build the base. I'm going to use scraps from the 1/4" Baltic birch plywood to make right angle brackets to hold it square. The base will be 12x36. This model is gigantic! I held it up next to my Virginia 1819. The hull will be twice as long and almost twice as wide. I knew that going in, but it's different when it's sitting on the bench. Of course, you have to feel the same way about your HMS Victory.
  7. I’ve started working on frames. I won’t get much more done until the weekend, but I really wanted to get the false keel and one bulkhead cut out and fit together.
  8. I am happy to announce that I have purchased the plans and am starting my build log for the HMS Winchelsea. I've been interested in this since the first time I saw the project on the Syren Ship Models website. I'm very excited to start a group project early on in its inception. It will be fun to work on this with so many other modelers. Thank you, Chuck, for putting this together and sharing your hard work and passion with us. I will download the plans and get started on cutting frames this week.
  9. Thank you Mark and Paul. It meant a lot to me to have all the help and support from people like you on this site. This community makes modelling a lot more fun and has really helped me grow my abilities. I have too many ideas for my next build. I bought Model Shipways Fair American a few months ago and have been looking forward to building it. I really like the transom windows, stern framing, painted wales, and the gun port framing to name a few of the features that drew me to that kit. But I've also discovered the group projects portion of Model Ship World. I bought the Triton plans in hopes of building the cross section model of that ship, but there are very few active logs of it right now and the cutting precision is very demanding. I've actually tried building the frames with marginal success to see if I should proceed. I think it will have to wait until I get a little better at building from scratch. However, the newest project, HMS Winchelsea, has just started and looks like a really nice model. I've been lurking over there for a few weeks and I think I'm going to buy the plans and start cutting plywood this week. There are about 20 new build logs and a lot of discussion going on in that forum and I think I would like to be a part of that.
  10. Here is my completed model. I made a ton of mistakes on it, but I’m very pleased with how it turned out. I feel like this was an excellent choice for a first ship model and I looking forward to starting another one. There’s no doubt that I’m hooked!
  11. I’ve done a poor job of updating this log through the rest of the rigging. Here are some photos of the work of installing the sails and running rigging. I attached the mail sail to its gaff before mounting the gaff. It was tricky getting the tension right on each line. The most interesting part to me was seeing how the running lines and pulleys actually work to pull the gaffs into place and set the sails. I struggled the most with making the rope coils look decent. I decided to make loose coils because it seemed much harder to make really tight pinwheel style coils. Its tight quarters working on the ropes with the rest of the lines in the way. My long tweezers and hemostats were indispensable for that work. My next post will show the finished model.
  12. Hi Alec. I used Testors enamel on the canon and the gaff cheeks with just a little trouble: CA stripped a little bit of paint off of the gaff cheeks. In the end, it was so little that I didn’t bother touching it up for fear of making a bigger mess.
  13. Hi Alec. I used Testors enamel on the canon and the gaff cheeks with just a little trouble: CA stripped a little bit of paint off of the gaff cheeks. In the end, it was so little that I didn’t bother touching it up for fear of making a bigger mess.
  14. She’s looking great! What variety of Home Depot plywood are you using? I was thinking about starting this project and doing the same thing, but I am not sure which 1/4 inch plywood would work well versus the more expensive Baltic birch 5-ply stuff that I’ve seen at the craft stores. I don’t mind spending $70 on plywood, unless I can get away with spending $30.

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