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About Dan03

  • Birthday January 3

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    Sudbury, Ontario, Canada
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  1. I would agree with Wefalck but for other reasons. In Canada, the iron-on veneer is very thin, but has a fairly thick hot melt adhesive. If it were used for planking, I would expect there to be very little structural support between the frames and a good possibility of adhesive seeping through the joints. Any one actually use any for planking recently? It might work for double planking as the top dressing....
  2. I purchased one of these glue bottles from Lee Valley Tools for under 10 bucks and it works great. The tip is customizable. Mine will lay a consistent bead of Titebond along the edge of a plank without too much fuss or mess. Plus the glue is aways sealed away and a simple squeeze brings it up the tube. No need to invert and shake the glue to the top to dispense. The middle size is perfect for modelling.
  3. Thanks for the tutorial. For whatever reason, I never thought of using a steel ruler and an exacto knife. It certainly looks easier than my method which involved some freehand. I've been studying Steve12345 build religiously. He had the exact kit I have and the same shortfalls and lack of instructions which explain why I installed the bulwarks before completing the planking as Steve had done.
  4. Build is slowly progressing. I have been studying numerous other build logs and identified what I would say are mistakes that I've made so far, but others may say that only my approach is "different". I have planked the first 5 strakes working downwards. I then attached the Gar planks and am now struggling with the calculations to taper each strake "perfectly". Which now brings me to my lastest issue. What is the best method for tapering? Since this is my first build, I don't have access to all of the fancy tool options that some have. I tried using an old woodworking vise and gently "whittling" away the excess wood, but even with my best efforts, I found the results were jagged. I have also tried filing, but takes far too long. Any suggestions? I do have an old dremel on standby. Even just marking a 7mm wide plank to be tapered to 5.8 mm is difficult. I need to find a better way to measure and get a really fine tip pencil as well 🙁
  5. Starting my very first model build. Like most newbies, I am sure that I started with a build that is well above my abilities. I am OCD and tend to get lost in the details, but I usually can work my way through anything I put my mind to. That being said, I have started and managed to get the framework completed (with a few errors) and layed down my decking. The kit as supplied seems to be decent quality although I did have a few warped frames and some delamination issues on the base for the decking. At the moment my plans for this build are to go with the weathered rustic look rather than the shiny new look. When decking, I chose to darken the seams by running a pencil along each board, but obviously it didn't really show all that well. My rookie mistake is the sizing and joint spacing are all over the map. Next build, I will plan the seams better I chose a medium walnut stain and the nail marks were just a sharpie. Once I shellac and seal the deck I will tackle the dreaded planking. I have looked at a few other builds and seen some awesome tips and tricks
  6. I am a landlocked Canadian looking at dipping my toes into the Wooden Model shipbuilding world. I have always wanted to build model ships since I was a child. Now close to retirement, my wife and children gifted me with my 1st build... The HMAV Bounty by Billings boats. My experience is nil, but I have always been "handy" and never back down from a challenge. Plus being Obsessive Cumpulsive seems to be a perfect fit for this challenging hobby. Looking forward to starting my own build log and stealing tips and tricks from all of your members. Judging from my first peek at some of the Bounty build logs, I see that there are many amazing artists to draw experience from. Wish me luck, I'll need it.

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