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sir francis haddock

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  1. Hi Scott the holes have 3mm brass portholes to cover them and where they are is from the plans. I think they were put where they needed light below deck.
  2. Putting large permeant holes into all my hard work with a power tool was a moment I was glad did not go wrong.
  3. I traced the deck potholes from the 1 to 1 deck plan, I thought this would be easier than measuring out every position and used a normal electric drill to the pit the holes in.
  4. The bumper sanded and finished and the rail on. I painted the back where it had snapped with brown acrylic paint, it looks better but think I will paint the whole piece to match.
  5. I tried to cut down the 2nd layer where the keel goes in but even with a new sharp knife blade and going slow it splintered. If I can remove this part I have enough left to replace it. The other side looks a lot better.
  6. Next is the bumper, doing this used up a full tube of superglue and a lot of sanding to get the angle. I used the front piece of the keel to try to get the gap at the front as close as possible. I think it went ok.
  7. The wood for the 2nd layer is very thin and brittle and with the contact glue sticking instantly it was hard to tapper it. There is a limited amount of this wood so I didn’t want to have to pull it off.
  8. Thanks Tom, the planking instructions seem a bit abstract at 1st. It wasn't until I was actually doing it that it then made sense, after the mistakes .
  9. The planking all done, edges tidy, some gaps. Nothing to big that filler cannot fix. Am amazed it all came together and looks like a hull. The instructions and video say to leave the pins in but I thought it would be easier to sand if I took them out. 6 pieces of plywood for the bow reinforcements and lots of sanding. Was braver this time and used a heaver sand paper that really saved a lot of time. I also discovered that sanding filler is something best done outside.
  10. The bottom of the hull planking for the prow I felt ended up untidy, but I was able to sort of clean it up. It’s a learning experience and will be covered by the 2nd layer. The YouTube videos skipped over this bit.
  11. The planks for the bottom of the hull needs to twist 3 ways and I needed to find a way to soak all the length of the planks in one go. The bath was the only place I have big enough. But the wood floated, had to enlist some extra crew to hold them down.
  12. I did both sides at the same time because I read doing one side at a time could warp the hull. Soaking the planks bending getting the pins in the right place were challenging but ok to do with some patience. So far I’m having a great time enjoying it coming tougher.
  13. Next is the planking. This and the rigging is what I expect will be the most challenging parts. The information I found was to start at the top work my way down, then go from the bottom up and meet in the middle, pinning and gluing as I go. The stern planking was so easy, short planks with no bends. But trimming the ends with a hobby knife and nothing to rest against is something I think will happen a few times with this project.
  14. Sanding the reinforcements took some time to get flush with the false keel. Then the sides to be bent, stained and attached (on the YouTube video it’s called the armour). I live in southern Ireland and there are not many model shops around. Most of the tools I’m using have to be ordered online so I ordered an electric plank bender and small tool kit that had a pin pusher, which were used for the 1st time on the armour. They were easy to use and no problems yet.

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