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Brian Falke

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    Jacksonville, FL

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  1. Still no bow. However, the rest of the hull has been rough shaped on the interior and the exterior hull has been filled in with wood filler and sanded smooth. I used wood rasps, 60 - 100 grit sandpaper for the exterior and wood rasps, a power drill sanding wheel, and a Dremel sanding drum for the interior. I removed the ridges between the frames down to about halfway (from aft to forward for the frames forward of midships from forward to aft to those frames aft of midships) into the frame it self. In the pictures the four sections between the bow and stern pieces are ready to be connected
  2. I printed out all frames, with the exception of the stern and bow sections. That section is going to be difficult to get right (more on that later). So, I decided to check my work and plan for the next step, attaching the frames to the keel. My initial plan was to print the frame with a toothpick size hole in the part of the timber that would rest atop the keel. A toothpick would then go through the timber into the keel to add longitudinal strength (first photo). I felt that would not be strong enough to withstand sanding and planking when the time came. So, I slightly a
  3. So, that attempt was back in May. I had other ideas - try and cut the wood to 1/8th thick and glue two pieces together with the grain perpendicular to each, place pins in the joints, etc... Each thought would resolve one issue, but would increase another, mainly time. So, I started digging around and decided upon a 3D printer. I am still using BlueJacket's plans and drawings to draw out each frame and from those drawings, creating the 3D file which will be then used to create the frame. I know this is "cheating" a little, but given the time constraints and risk with using wood frames (one
  4. It has been quite a while since I have posted. Dealing with family issues, my own health issues, and just could not figure out how to build the frames out of wood with enough strength in them to withstand the construction process. My first attempt failed miserably, so bad, that I threw it into the trash out of disgust without thinking to take a picture of it. My second attempt, I divided the frame into 5 parts in order to keep the wood grain as close to parallel to the frame as possible. Using Frame C as the guinea pig, I cut the five pieces out of white oak at a thickness of 1/4". Using
  5. Thanks Roger. the pelorus' were purchased from shapeways.com. I initially had made two out of wood and was not completely satisfied with them, but they were all that I had. I did stumble upon shapeways when I was looking for the eggbeater antennas. The 35' whips, the eggbeaters, the big eyes and the pelorus' were purchased from them. As for the CPP, I struggled with those. Those were made back in 2009. I looked through all the model ship building websites in an attempt to find a port and starboard CPP and could not. They were pretty much fixed screws, and right hand at that, and w
  6. Tom, DANG! Now I have to take it out of the case....just kidding. That is a great example of planning. I installed the starboard pigs and otters before thinking about the aft steering hatch. Just could not get it in between the two. As the DCA on ENGAGE, aft steering was my space, it was the DC workshop. And with two DCmen that were, well, a little on the large size, I chuckled every time they had to go through the scuttle.
  7. Picking back up on this build after finishing and placing in a display case (finally!) the previous build. As I left off, I went down to my parents house to include my father in on the build. Well, did not go as well as I had envisioned - unfortunately. Guess eventually we all will reach that point. I have a little re-work to do on the gun carriages. Picking back up, as you recall, this is to be somewhat modified. I am going to build the hull as a plank on frame construction in order to open one side of the hull, all decks for viewing. My first was to do a little research in ord
  8. Down to the final details, which I have been trying to figure out how to make since I began the model. The antennas. The MSO has 4 35' HF whip antennas and the 4 Fleet Broadcast antennas (egg beaters). I began sanding a 1/8" dowel in an attempt to achieve the right size for the whip antennas. I would get close, but each time, due to the thinness, it would break setting me back to the beginning. I tried maybe 5 times until I gave up. I did look at using wire as the whips, but it just did not look right. Too thin at the base, no tapper, and very difficult to get the wire straight.
  9. It has been awhile since I have posted, so I might as well get back to it. As I left off last, the mast was next in line for logging. Masts on MSOs are not complex, the most technical piece of equipment on the mast is the surface search radar. However, there are a couple of unique sensors on the top part of the mast. These are the earth's magnetic field sensors used to determine the amount of current for each of the four degaussing loops for the ship to remain "invisible" to magnetic mines. Then there are the two wind measuring birds. These were very difficult to construct. First, the o
  10. Yes, that is correct. Being on the East Coast, it is a little difficult for me to get to the restoration project. However, I am following along through their Facebook page. The team is doing a fantastic job with the restoration. The ENGAGE was build in Stockton - think it is one of 3 Stockton built MSO's. In total, there were 102 laid down. The final MSO was stopped after the keel was laid down. After a few years of enjoying the model, my intention is to donate the model to the USS LUCID Museum.
  11. At this point, all fantail equipment was completed and in place. To complete the fantail I still needed to install the taffrail. I could not find stanchions that would work without some modification. I used the same stanchions I used on the focsle, just cut them off right at the second rail and filed flat for the rail to rest on. Though not 100% accurate, it did come close enough. Now that the fantail was completed, and for the most part, the entire ship's hull and deck equipment, I shifted my efforts to the mast. This I felt was going to be a challenge because I did not have clear pictu
  12. LOL!! I should have included those in my descriptions. The Otters were tough to make. It took months to get it right with all the angles and then to replicate the process three more times so all four were exact copies of each other. The Pigs were just dowels sanded down, but the fins/guides did take some time to make and glue together - but not nearly as difficult as the Otters.
  13. Roger, thanks for the story. It brought back memories of when I was OOD off the coast of Charleston, SC doing MCM Qualifications prior to deploying for Operation Desert Storm. We had a Double "O" sweep out and lost the starboard sweep. The kite snagged on the bottom and the wire parted setting the float and kit adrift. About 6 months later, they were recovered off the coast of Ireland. Was not a good day to say the least. It was about this point in the build I started to fret over a couple of detail items. The mast, four HF whip antennas, and the four egg beaters. My concern
  14. At this point, my pictures jump way ahead in the build. For the most part, everything forward of the aft bulkhead leading to the fantail is complete - just some very detail items to install remain. I shifted my focus to the fantail where on MSO's is the business end. All the sweep gear is back there. The mine sweeping towing winch was built and installed early on in the build as well as the kingpost on the port side. From his point, I build the power crane on the starboard side with the 7 meter RHIB rigged and ready to be deployed over the side. The two noise makers (Mk 6B and Mk 4V). Th
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