Jump to content

Brian Falke

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Brian Falke

  1. So, that attempt was back in May.  I had other ideas - try and cut the wood to 1/8th thick and glue two pieces together with the grain perpendicular to each, place pins in the  joints, etc... Each thought would resolve one issue, but would increase another, mainly time.  So, I started digging around and decided upon a 3D printer.  I am still using BlueJacket's plans and drawings to draw out each frame and from those drawings, creating the 3D file which will be then used to create the frame.  I know this is "cheating" a little, but given the time constraints and risk with using wood frames (one breaks in during construction - or worse, after it is completed), I am opting to use the 3D printer - hey, I WILL be using Wood Filament for the frames...so, I am staying as close as possible.  😉


    Here is the same frame as above, Frame C, but from the 3D printer.  It is pure PLA filament that came with the printer.  This frame was just a prototype.


    It is stronger - tested by squeezing the tops of the frame together - did not break.  And accurate, as you can see the tops are level, and the beam is the same on each side.

    3D Printed Frame C.jpg

  2. It has been quite a while since I have posted.  Dealing with family issues, my own health issues, and just could not figure out how to build the frames out of wood with enough strength in them to withstand the construction process.  My first attempt failed miserably, so bad, that I threw it into the trash out of disgust without thinking to take a picture of it.  My second attempt, I divided the frame into 5 parts in order to keep the wood grain as close to parallel to the frame as possible.  Using Frame C as the guinea pig, I cut the five pieces out of white oak at a thickness of 1/4".  Using an S joint (guess that would be a good description) to join the pieces together, I glued them using wood glue and clamped for 24 hours.  The following day, went out to check on my work and it all looked fine.  I unclamped the pieces and then was checking the strength of the frame by slightly pressing the port and starboard ends together.  Immediately, the top S joint on one side snapped free, ending that test and ultimately, this process of wood frames.  I needed to find a way to build stronger frames and which did not take days just to build each one.  Additionally, the frame was not too accurate, so include that in the development requirements.  This is the wood frame:


    Wood Frame C.jpg

  3. On 5/10/2020 at 1:34 PM, Roger Pellett said:

    Very nice Brian.  I see that you included my two nemesis’s, pelorus and controllable pitch prop!



    Thanks Roger.  the pelorus' were purchased from shapeways.com.  I initially had made two out of wood and was not completely satisfied with them, but they were all that I had.  I did stumble upon shapeways when I was looking for the eggbeater antennas.  The 35' whips, the eggbeaters, the big eyes and the pelorus' were purchased from them. 

    As for the CPP, I struggled with those.  Those were made back in 2009.  I looked through all the model ship building websites in an attempt to find a port and starboard CPP and could not.  They were pretty much fixed screws, and right hand at that, and wrong size.  Yes, they were 1:96 scale, but for a destroyer, cruiser, etc.  None for a Minesweeper.  So, I decided to fashion my own out of wood.  I initially tried to put some forward pitch on the blades but could not get the pitch uniform across the eight blades.  It was at that point I decided to mount the ship as if she is pier side with 0 pitch on the screws. 

  4. On 5/17/2020 at 12:49 PM, TomZZZZ said:

    Very nice but, where is the aft starboard hatch to after steering?


    DANG!  Now I have to take it out of the case....just kidding.  That is a great example of planning.  I installed the starboard pigs and otters before thinking about the aft steering hatch.  Just could not get it in between the two.  As the DCA on ENGAGE, aft steering was my space, it was the DC workshop.  And with two DCmen that were, well, a little on the large size, I chuckled every time they had to go through the scuttle.

  5. Picking back up on this build after finishing and placing in a display case (finally!) the previous build.  As I left off, I went down to my parents house to include my father in on the build.  Well, did not go as well as I had envisioned - unfortunately.  Guess eventually we all will reach that point.  I have a little re-work to do on the gun carriages.

    Picking back up, as you recall, this is to be somewhat modified.  I am going to build the hull as a plank on frame construction in order to open one side of the hull, all decks for viewing.

    My first was to do a little research in order to get a better picture of the keel.  From the National Archives, I was able to pull the drawings Samuel H. Pook drew in  1849.  Though not from 1812, it is well known that the keel is the original thus I felt Pook's drawings would be accurate for this purpose.  Additionally, I reviewed SCRATCH BUILDING A MODEL SHIP by Gene Bodnar (August 2007) and his build log when he built the CONSTITUTION in 4 sections.  The document is located here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/plans_and_research/ScratchBuildingaModelShipgene.pdf  and the build log is on another ship model building website.

    The keel is as the CONSTITUTION's - white oak.  I elected to use a single keel, not two sections.  To get the proper size (1/4" x 3/16") of the keel, I used a planner.  Then, using a scroll saw, I cut the forward joint (where the bow stem meets the keel).  Then measuring back from that joint, I cut the stern end of the keel.  I did this process just in case I fouled up the bow to stem joint I wouldn't have to re-plane a new keel all over again.  The bow stem is made of two sections such that the curvature of the stem would follow the wood grain giving it the most strength.  After attaching the bow stem, using the Pook drawings again I cut out the sternpost and glued that to the keel.

    After the glue had dried overnight, I then drilled holes at each joint just tight enough to insert a toothpick.  I then inserted a glue coated toothpick into each joint providing additional strength to each joint.

    Once done I place the keel on the work table and saw that I was starting off with a little sagging (you can see the stern is a little off the table).  To remedy this, I place a small piece of metal under the keel at midships and then clamped down the stern and bow sections.  I then place a wet sock (shop rag now) on the keel and let it set overnight.  This, at last check, remedy the sagging and I now have a straight keel to work from.

    Next step is to start on the frames - which again, will be using Bodnar's document as a guide.








  6. Down to the final details, which I have been trying to figure out how to make since I began the model.  The antennas.  The MSO has 4 35' HF whip antennas and the 4 Fleet Broadcast antennas (egg beaters).

    I began sanding a 1/8" dowel in an attempt to achieve the right size for the whip antennas.  I would get close, but each time, due to the thinness, it would break setting me back to the beginning.  I tried maybe 5 times until I gave up.  I did look at using wire as the whips, but it just did not look right.  Too thin at the base, no tapper, and very difficult to get the wire straight.

    As for the egg beaters, I did not even attempt to build them.  I just mulled thoughts through my mind.  I came up with a couple of ideas using a toothpick sanded down as the center post and then bent wire as the egg beater part.

    With nothing left to lose, I did an internet search for "1:96 scale model parts" and one of the top returns was Shapeways.com.  My interest was piqued.  I went to the site and search on 1:96.  A lot of 3D designed parts and pieces for ship models came up - all kinds of pieces from USS CONSTITUTION to the latest Navy destroyer.  I felt like a kid in a candy store now.  I found a plethora of detail pieces that I could use.  Including the 35' whips and the egg beaters.  I also replace the big eyes and the port and starboard pelorus'.  The whips were not smooth, however, they were a heck of a lot better than a piece of wire or a fat whip made of wood.


    I do not have detailed pictures of the antenna's.  However, I have completely finished the build.  As I read somewhere in another build, if you do not put the  model in a case, you will continue to tinker with it - never really finishing the project.  That was completed yesterday.  The base, ship mounted and the clear enclosure.  I built the base and the clear acrylic box is from shoppopdisplays.com (I do recommend them). 



    Now, the COMMCMDIV 11 burgee and shield.  That was a personal touch.  In the Navy, the command burgee or pennant of a senior commander would replace the commissioning pennant when that commander was embarked onboard the ship.  MCMDIV 11 was my first of two operational commands.  Though ENGAGE was long gone by the time I was in command of DIV 11, she did spend some time during the Vietnam War in Sasebo, Japan (where MCMDIV 11 was homeported under 7th Fleet). So, I felt, given the linkage there, and that ENGAGE was my first operational tour and DIV 11 was my last (DIV 11 and DIV 31 merged in 2009 becoming MCMDIV 31 under 3rd Fleet which I continued to be the commander for), it was fitting that I permanently "embark" the ship.


    Cheers, Brian

  7. It has been awhile since I have posted, so I might as well get back to it.  As I left off last, the mast was next in line for logging.  Masts on MSOs are not complex, the most technical piece of equipment on the mast is the surface search radar.  However, there are a couple of unique sensors on the top part of the mast.  These are the earth's magnetic field sensors used to determine the amount of current for each of the four degaussing loops for the ship to remain "invisible" to magnetic mines.  Then there are the two wind measuring birds.  These were very difficult to construct.  First, the only picture I had of these where I could closely determine their actual size and scale them down was in the Interior Communications rating book.  I was able to find a picture of a Sailor holding one and guessing the Sailor was about 6', I went from there.  Then I had to make two that were, to the naked eye, exactly identical in size and shape.  I think I went through 20 - 30 iterations of the propeller blades until I got 6 that were close and then glue them on the hub at the correct angle for each blade.  On any other naval ship model, I think I would have skipped them, but on a 1:96 scale, and with such a bare mast to begin with, they would have noticeably been missing.  Now, one more unique characteristic of the MSO mast, the three green lights.  One on each end of the yardarm and one right above the radar.  These are used for when the ship is conducting mine clearing operations.  The additional lights are, at the top of the mast, the aircraft warning lights and the red, white, red lights on the front for various possible emergency conditions while underway.  And, lets not forget about the aft masthead range light.

    You may notice the Division Burgee closed-up on the mast instead of the typical commissioning pennant.  That is MCM Division 11 Commodores' burgee.  More on that later in the build log.

    The mast is black where in the picture of USS ENGAGE in my first post it is haze gray.  Why the difference?  Back, when I first reported aboard ENGAGE, all masts on all USN ships were black.  This was to hide the soot that would build up on the masts in the old coal boiler ships and became tradition until about 1989/90 when it suddenly came down from the CNO that all ships are to paint their masts haze gray.  The story behind the change, and I cannot vouch for this, is that the CNO was out sailing with some British friends one afternoon in the New England area when they spotted a naval vessel off in the distance.  Too far to make out nationality by viewing the flag, so one of the yacht owners grabber her binoculars and quickly let the CNO know that it was a US Navy ship.  He looked through the binos and could not see the flag and then asked her how does she know it is a US Navy ship.  Her reply was that only US Navy ships have black masts.  Thus, the order for all US Navy ships to paint their masts haze gray and that remains the standard today.  I elected to keep it black to add depth and character to the ship model and that is how it was when I first stepped aboard.



  8. Yes, that is correct.  Being on the East Coast, it is a little difficult for me to get to the restoration project.  However, I am following along through their Facebook page.  The team is doing a fantastic job with the restoration.   The ENGAGE was build in Stockton - think it is one of 3 Stockton built MSO's.  In total, there were 102 laid down.  The final MSO was stopped after the keel was laid down.  After a few years of enjoying the model, my intention is to donate the model to the USS LUCID Museum.

  9. At this point, all fantail equipment was completed and in place.  To complete the fantail I still needed to install the taffrail.  I could not find stanchions that would work without some modification.  I used the same stanchions I used on the focsle, just cut them off right at the second rail and filed flat for the rail to rest on.  Though not 100% accurate, it did come close enough.  Now that the fantail was completed, and for the most part, the entire ship's hull and deck equipment, I shifted my efforts to the mast.  This I felt was going to be a challenge because I did not have clear pictures of where mast lights, antennas and sensor's were located on the mast.


    Fantail Finish.jpg

  10. LOL!!  I should have included those in my descriptions.  The Otters were tough to make.  It took months to get it right with all the angles and then to replicate the process three more times so all four were exact copies of each other.  The Pigs were just dowels sanded down, but the fins/guides did take some time to make and glue together - but not nearly as difficult as the Otters.

  11. Roger, thanks for the story.  It brought back memories of when I was OOD off the coast of Charleston, SC doing MCM Qualifications prior to deploying for Operation Desert Storm.  We had a Double "O" sweep out and lost the starboard sweep.  The kite snagged on the bottom and the wire parted setting the float and kit adrift.  About 6 months later, they were recovered off the coast of Ireland.  Was not a good day to say the least.


    It was about this point in the build I started to fret over a couple of detail items.  The mast, four HF whip antennas, and the four egg beaters.  My concern with the mast is that I could not find a decent picture which showed the detail I desired.  As for the whip antennas, I tried to sand down a dowel to the right size, but each time when I would get the dowel to a thin piece it would break.  And lastly, the egg beaters (receiver antennas for fleet broadcast).  I never attempted to build one but I did have a number of ideas swimming around my head.  So, I put these off until I finished the fantail.  In other words, buying time to crack those nuts.

  12. At this point, my pictures jump way ahead in the build. For the most part, everything forward of the aft bulkhead leading to the fantail is complete - just some very detail items to install remain.  I shifted my focus to the fantail where on MSO's is the business end.  All the sweep gear is back there.  The mine sweeping towing winch was built and installed early on in the build as well as the kingpost on the port side.  From his point, I build the power crane on the starboard side with the 7 meter RHIB rigged and ready to be deployed over the side.  The two noise makers (Mk 6B and Mk 4V).  The 4V is the roundish, stubby one on the port side, and the 6B is the boxy one on the starboard side underneath the 7 meter RHIB.  When deployed, these would mimic the noise of ships machinery (6B) or ships screws (4V).  The float rigged to the port kingpost is used as the float for those noise makers.  Only one is deployed at a time and it depends on the mine threat.


    Moving aft, right by the ships edge, all the way aft, are the port and starboard kites and depressors.  These are basically about a 4' x 4' boxed vanes that when rigged with the sweep wire, depress the wire to depth and pull the wire outward to port and starboard.  The depth of the sweep wire, when deployed is about 50' and width is roughly 150'.  To get that width, about 1500' of wire needs to be trailed behind the ship.  Just inboard of the kites/depressors are the two floats that mark the end of the sweep wire and keep the kite and sweep wire from sinking to the bottom. The port and starboard cranes rigged to the floats are there to deploy the kites/depressors and floats.  It is a very dangerous evolution deploying this stuff with up to three wires trailing behind the ship basically increasing the size of the ship to an aircraft carrier.


    All the equipment back on the fantail were made from stock pieces of basswood - dowels and sheets of wood for the most part.  I did use blocks from BlueJacket on the end of the port and starboard cranes and for the king post and power crane.




  13. Using the same jig process as I used above, I drilled a hole in the back of the Quoin for the handle for each of the gun carriages.  The BlueJacket kit does not come with a handle as the expectation is to not get down to this level of detail on the build (but, I am modifying the kit to some extent) and I felt a Belaying Pin would work perfectly as the handle.  The pins in the kit are 1/4", which are a little too long for this purpose.  So, I purchased 3/16" Belaying Pins from another supplier and they worked perfectly.  The handle part is about 3/32", which to scale is 9".  As a prototype, I finished one of the 32 guns.  Also, below the Quoin you will see the fitting for the Train Tackle.  I will have to drill that hole by hand on the carriages since it is located just above the rear truck.  Here is the prototype:



  14. After boring and smoothing the exterior of each cannon, I then focused on the carriages.  Being one for details, I noticed the gun tackle loops and breeching ringbolt on each side of the carriage required holes for the small brass eyebolts supplied with the kit.  I have scanned a few of the builds here and noticed that these were not included, so I am assuming that the kit does not come with enough eyebolts to do all the carriages and where needed throughout the ship - so I will have to order more.  The problem that I faced was now to drill holes in each of the carriages exactly (or dang close) to each other to achieve uniformity.  To do this I took a blob of JB Weld and mixed it together until it was starting to cure.  I then took the blob and pressed it onto the 3/4" plywood.  I then sprayed each side of the carriage with WD-40 so that the carriage would not stick and then pressed into the JB Weld each side of the gun carriage.  With the impression of each side of the carriage in the cured JB Weld blob, I let it cure until it was solid. This provided me with a stationary form where I could put one carriage into the impression, drill one hole, remove the carriage and put a new carriage in and drill in the same place until all carriages had the gun tackle loop drilled and in the same place.  Then I realigned the form on the drill press platform to drill the breeching ringbolt in the same place for each carriage.


  15. This point the hull and superstructure were complete.  Next to dive into the deck details.  On the 01 Level I used stanchions from BlueJacket. On the 02, 03, and 04 Levels I constructed the stanchions and rails - I could not find anything online that would suffice.  MSO's were an odd bunch of ships.  Nothing from a normal ship of the line would fit to scale; meaning deck railings from a 1:96 destroyer would be too tall for a MSO and look out of place.  On the 01 Level I used black thin wire as the lifelines.  Again, being unique, the life lines on MSO's were made of carbon fiber instead of stainless steel.  Using carbon fiber as their lifelines significantly reduced the magnetic signature for the ship.  At this juncture, I am focused on the details with the exception of the fantail.  I elected to do the fantail last as that will be the most complex given the amount of equipment back there.


    It is also at this time that I took about a year off from the project.  We moved from Texas to Japan. I secured the model in a 3/4" plywood box where it survived the trip from Texas to Japan and then to San Diego when I was able to remove it and continue working on the model.  Not a bit of damage from the two overseas moves.




  16. Hi Tim, great to see another MSO sailor on here!  Yes, I was on ENGAGE (MSO-433) out of Mayport from 8/89 - 3/91 (3/91-9/91 on IMPERVIOUS in the Gulf).  I too spent some quality time up there in Little Creek (11/90-01/91) going through REFTRA.  Was not fun at all.  I was the DCA and Engineering was a disaster.  We actually had to pause training for a month in order to get the strut bearings replaced.  Some how the starboard shaft became misaligned and wore out the bearings unevenly causing excessive vibrations in the engines.  All I can remember is the cold nights and the fight with the XO on my way back from one of the bars right outside the gate (but, that is another story for another time).  I am actually finished with the model, just have to mount it.  I took pictures from the 102 MSOs website, there are a lot there.   But, for the most part, it is coming from memory.  Thanks and glad you are following along.

  17. Keeping with authenticity of the ship, I sought to use cloth as the overhead on the bridge.  I tried a number of methods and material.  I just could not get the proper consistency and texture.  So, I settled wood.  I cut each section to fit from beam to beam, then filled in and sanded along the seams to give it the look of cloth being supported by a beam.

    With the bridge and pilothouse area completed for the most part, I moved onto the deck gear.  Starting with the anchor windlass and AN/SQQ-14 Variable Depth Minehunting Sonar Winch on the focsle.  It was also about this time that I discovered BlueJacket's website and Expo Model and ordered the life rings, fire hoses in their camelback racks, and brass portholes for the pilot house and captain's cabin.  Unfortunately, I could not locate an anchor windlass for a MSO nor a sonar winch, so I set out to make them myself.  For the anchor windlass I did have the ship's drawings to use, but for the sonar winch, since it was a mod in the 70's and the drawings are from original construction, I had nothing but my memory and pictures.  Also in the picture below, are the port & starboard anchors - which again had to be constructed by hand and the mooring line reels.  The mine hunting sonar winch is just forward of the forward bulkhead.

    Bridge Overhead_Unpainted.jpg

    Bridge Overhead_Painted.jpg


  18. I am going to jump ahead in the build, way ahead.  But, there is a reason.  If you will bear with me for a bit.  My reason for building this kit was to include my father in on the build.  You see, growing up, my father also built model ships and the one that I will always remember was the paddle boat ROBERT E. LEE.  It was absolutely incredible.  I was mesmerized by it. It now sits in my sister's house in Mississippi as my dad felt that it should reside as close to the paddle boat region as possible.  I will get pictures of it one day and post them to this build. 

    When I first received the kit I went over to my parents house to kick it off, and get my dad involved.  It is unfortunate that now, in his old age he is not able to do this type of work.  So, I packed up the kit and brought it back to my house to build.  I still want to include my father in on the build, but with easier tasks.   So, I am jumping ahead to the guns.

    I was already to grab the guns, the truck carriages, the trucks and the paint (thank you BlueJacket for delivering in time) and head down to my parents house to paint and build the guns.  But, once I opened the guns I noticed that they required a little prep work before painting.  The web between the gun and trunnions and seams along the barrel needed to be smoothed down.  Additionally, the gun required boring out.  So, I set my travel plans aside and commenced to prep the guns. Using my power Dremel tool I gently ground the web down rounding out the trunnion and barrel in those places.  Using the wire brush on the Dremel I wired smooth the seams along the barrel and all along the barrel, breach and trunnions.  My next dilemma was to bore the barrel in the center.  To do this I clamped a 3/4" scrap piece of plywood to my drill press and drilled a 7/16" hole through the board.  This allowed me to insert the gun into the hole with the muzzle swell up and centered.  Using a 1/16" drill bit, I then bored out the barrel to a depth of about 3/16".


  19. It was about this point in the model that I decided that what is going to set my model apart from those that I have seen online is the details.  What I had seen online lacked the detail or was not completely accurate.  Additionally, I only saw the pre-modernization MSO models - the ones with the 40mm on the focsle, with the 26' MWB, and significant superstructure missing.  And, I feel that as an observer and admirer of ship models (when at the Naval Academy, I would spend hours just looking at the ship models in the museum and around the yard), the detail is what grabs the observers attention.  I have a tendency of placing myself on the model, walking the decks, etc.  However, I do have the tendency to strive for perfection.  As someone once said "Perfection is the enemy of excellence."  I am challenged at times to step back and say, that is excellent.  I tend to tweak somethings until my tweaking ruins it and have to start over.


    Pressing forward, I now shifted to finishing up the bridge.  I needed to put the windshield and frame for the overhead tarpaulin.  Using 1/16 stock, I cut the windshield with a slight outward angle.  Fortunately there are no wipers on these.  They were just framed plexiglass that on clear days we would raise them inward and allow the sea to blow in as we cruised at flank speed (13 knots).  Below is the completed frame for the windshield and overhead tarpaulin.P1000699.thumb.JPG.5458f132d0f978368a2cda8e070d8e80.JPG

  20. At this point, I had not discovered any company that manufactured the small pieces and parts - like life rings, firehoses, fire plugs, ladders etc.  All the small items (ladders, big eyes, signal/search lights, life rafts, dan bouys (orange things on the smoke stack), ammo boxes -  all these were made by hand.  And took a lot of time and patience to construct each one.  Eventually, I did discover BlueJacket Ship Crafters and Model Expo for a few of these detail parts.P1000696.thumb.JPG.9f4beeb1cc521ebf5e2f7b723bd9f404.JPG

  21. From the picture above, you can see the bridge and the Captain's At-Sea cabin on the 03 Level.  When these ships (102 of them) were built, the bridge was open, exposed to the elements.  There was the ability for the ship's company to erect a tarpaulin overhead, but no windshields.  In the 70's, during the modernization, a more permanent cover was built.  The overhead was still a tarpaulin, and that was for a very good reason.  If the ship were to hit a mine, those in the bridge would be force through the tarpaulin instead of being smashed into a solid overhead.  Because of the ability to look  through the bridge windows, I decided to install the binnacle, centerline pelarus , Captain's chair, voice tube, and the SPA-25 repeater before putting in the windows and overhead.  With the exception of communications equipment below the forward bulkhead, there wasn't anything else on the bridge.  Very primitive compared to what is on today's naval ships.


    The below image is from the National Archives.  It is a picture of a ROK minesweeper being blown up by a magnetic mine during clearance operations in Wonsan Harbor in 1950.  That is why the overhead on the minesweeper is a tarpaulin and not solid wood overhead.


    Bridge Equipment.jpg

  22. My next steps were to start on the detail for the pilot house and bridge wings.  This consisted of the encapsulated lifeboats and holders, the port & starboard pelarus, running lights on the bridge wings.  Inside the pilot house I painted the interior bulkheads the pastel green (this was the color so those sea sick green faces would blend in).  I contemplated adding the helm and lee helm consoles in the pilot house but ultimately decided that the only way some one would see them would be through the small port holes with the use of a flashlight and would only be able to see the back of them.  Wasn't worth the effort.  All the detail pieces were made by hand.  Later on in the building process I do replace the port & starboard pelarus with manufactured ones.


    After I installed those, and viewed the bow on picture, I decided that what was there was not up to the quality I desired. So, I removed part of the bridge wing and 02 deck to effect some repairs and adjustments.  You can tell the difference from the two bow on pictures below.






  23. Moving to the 02 Level installed the (fwd to aft) pilot house, bridge wings, CIC and stack deck.  It was at this point that I realized the most important tool in my kit is my vision.  I did not realize until I took the pictures and looked at them that there was a huge gap on the port side above the porthole.  My near vision, before I started this project, was perfect.  This is about a year into the project now, and it was evident I needed a pair of readers. 🤓  To correct this, instead of removing pilot house and bridge wings, I filled in the gap with wood filler and sanded down smooth.  In future photos, this will be evident.


    Looking through the website, I have come across a number of ways to create the waterline.  My technique was similar to most of them.  I took a toothpick and taped it to a block of wood at the level the top of the boot-topping.  I would dip the tip of the toothpick in black paint and, with the ship securely in the cradle, gently tapped the ships hull putting a small dot to mark the top of the boot-topping.  I did this all along the hull spaced about 1/8" between the dots.  I did the same technique for the lower part of the boot-topping.  After the dots dried, using painters tape, I taped along the top and bottom and painted the boot-topping on.  Having been on a number of Navy ships, you can tell who ran a good Deck Division by looking at the boot-topping at the bow.  If the Port and Starboard sides met up perfectly at the bow, it was a good division.  Of course, mine came out perfect!



  • Create New...