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  1. Hi Gary Thanks for the advice, I was considering the same thing because the wood is soft, right. The frames ARE way off, believe me, I tried to capture in the first picture. And the step is there, in theory, but frames are off. It took me too much to measure each one and, when I affixed it, it was still off (on height), so I said that is simpler if I fix them at the end. Just look how far they are, and you can trust me that I carefully measured the timberheads. In fact, I have high hopes that I will solve it easily with a hand tool from Proxxon with a fine cutter, due to soft na
  2. Hi Well, long time no see. My workbench was requisitioned by my better half. We both work from home for most than one year. But I got it back! Meanwhile I worked on small projects which I could do on a regular desk, next to my keyboard. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.3346772168708512&type=3 https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.3649595848426141&type=3 https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.3827967460588978&type=3 https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.3856386867747037&type=3 So I've been busy today. Finished all frames on fa
  3. Due to COVID pandemic me and my wife have to work from home, so my workbench became an office desk for her and I could not work anymore on other project, America. I have to adapt and I got smaller builds. Here's Gozzo vela, from Mini Mamoli (now part of Dusek Ship Kits). The kit is quite simple and fun, but there are several problems with it: Some wood sizes mentioned in instructions are missing or are not enough The pre-carved wood hull has some flaws (see below) The instructions seems translated with some automated tool (I read English, not sure about original Italia
  4. Finally I finished version 2 of the scaffolding. Actually version 3, because v2 were made from 5mm steel but the stupid guys didn't took into account metal dilatation and were cut curved. The 10mm ones I use to hold the keel are not straight, they are curved too, but it doesn't affect their functions. The others are graded. The frame is perfectly aligned horizontally and vertically and hold between inside lateral ones. Everything can be adjusted both horizontally and vertically!
  5. The keyword for this post is "mistakes". Please don't forget this is a build log a not building instructions. The most important thing one should do is to cut keel slots of proper size, so the frames will stay in place by themselves. This will save you lot of pain and few years of your life. The last 5-6 frames have recessed timberheads. The frames must be fixed so the measurements can be made and see how it looks. As is indicated in building book. I tried to fix frames with rubber glue, but is too flexible. Then I challenged gods and I worked by measuring everyth
  6. I apologize for disappearing for so long, but my back pain prevents me from working. I have a desk job I tried several ways to install frames. Normally they are fixed temporarily and mark cutting line. As I said, because the slots are too big, it takes too much time to fix them. In the end I decided to install and cut one by one, checking against previous one. I was inspired by other builders and I used some gadgets: A small piece of wood to help me measure 1/8 timberheads: A tool made by a friend meant to draw circles, but very useful in porting dimen
  7. Some health problems prevented me from working. In the meantime I learned how to use the lathe Normally now I should test fit the frames. Unfortunately it takes some time to fit them and they are not tight fit, so they have to be fixed somehow. One solution might be Elmer's rubber glue, other to use some pieces of wood. I tested one, marked position and removed then tried to put it back. It requires again some time, so I decided to skip this step and assume some discrepancies when I will affix them in one step. Now I decided to cut the part below the keel and fix it wit
  8. OK, I uploaded a PDF with table dimensions, a DXF with pieces prepared to be cut, usable for CNC (sorry, too much text to translate, but is MDF 22mm, plexiglass 5 and 10 mm) and the Rhino project (everything is in layers), including 2D What you need to pay attention to is the grooves - first find a suitable rail then set your groove to match it, slightly below the surface (I have about 0.5-1mm). Because the wood is quite heavy, I put the supports exactly below grooves - don't leave less than 5mm of wood below groove or you risk to break Also, you might want to adj
  9. @RickyGene - Is a customization of several building boards I saw here or other places, like the one used by Ed Tosti @Jonathan11 - I'm from Romania, it would be impossible to ship it for you. It should be easier for you to make it in US than I did here (for some reason it was really hard to find 22mm MDF) I will upload tomorrow the plan here as DXF and some pictures, so you don't have to deal with Rhino unless you want to modify it. The only thing you need to take care is the size of the rails - whatever you find you must match the grooves in the board. I
  10. Thanks, Gary. I already saw your topic, I have an eye on it, maybe it helps me avoiding some mistakes
  11. I wasn't completely lazy. I've finished rabbet line on both sides and I've made a building board, based on designs of Ed Tosti and others. Is quite versatile and lots of things can be adjusted. The size is big enough to accommodate bigger ships, like Young America or it can be used in methods using deck line supports (sorry, I can't remember how is called now) The keel can be hold using clamp-like ..or using a support, which can be adjusted up-down I have the project in Rhino, if anyone is interested. Is in metric (I used
  12. Normally this would be the moment to test fit the frames. Unfortunately the slots in keel are way too big than frame thickness and I didn't checked in advance. So I postponed this step until I will have everything else and I will be ready to permanently fix them. I will NOT test and glue them one by one, but once I test and fix with fillings all of them, I will not take them out to carry other operations, just glue them one by one, otherwise it would be almost impossible to match again fillings. I have cut rabbet line. Basswood is too soft for my taste. It split very ea
  13. You are right, when I ordered the kit they told me they need to cut it. Also, from instructions seems to be 2 sets of frames, one numbered, other labeled.
  14. Slow progress, but I finished adjusting the frames. Thing is, I don't know at this time if the sizes are correct. I measured them from plan, aft side, but there are so much differences. If one expects same precision as laser-cut plywood, not the right place. My feeling is that the log was 'warped'; the aft side is much more asymmetrical and had a lot more material to be removed (I really hope I'm right!) The following photos are not following bearding line, but they show the discrepancies, mostly on stern half. I think the best thing is to leave enou
  15. Yes, I think I found a way. Measure the height on plan Align shorter leg top, center then longer leg (red), simultaneously with lateral width (blue). Mark center on all sides. Mark and cut longer leg Make a template from paper, mark center, fold it carefully and see which side is smaller, then mark it on other side. Be careful, the frames are beveled, you template aft, then you mark aft - turn it before marking it. I think it goes pretty well, but the legs are not same width. Don't sand too much now
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