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Everything posted by Dsmith20639

  1. Used one of the plan sheets as a pattern for bending the bulwark rails. Installed the bulwark rails, the quarter deck topgallant rails, the taffrail and the shoulder rails (between the forward deck bulwarks and the quarter deck bulwarks). Installed the fake continuation of the forward deck bulwark rails. Formed and installed the trail boards at the prow. Created the belaying pin-racks including holes for the catheads in the forward-most pin-racks. While waiting for the bulwark rails being bent to shape I began work on the deck superstructure items, the bowsprit bits with single block, the windlass, and the two companionways.
  2. I didn't care for the contrast in colors between the keel components and the walnut planking so I applied a Cherry stain to the hull and keel. Made it a little darker but reduced the contrast. Painted the insides of the bulwarks white and installed the bulwark stanchions. Sanded the edges of the rudder smooth with sandpaper. Soldered a brass wire to 3 of the rudder brace hinges to form the pintles and attached the rudder to the rudder stern post. Attached the forecastle breast plate and poop cover. Needed to add some additional wood to the breast plate to get it to fit and needed to remove some wood from the poop cover to get it to fit. Drilled holes in each for the belaying pins as shown on the plans and opened up a rectangular hole in the poop cover for access to the double block that will eventually be installed there.
  3. Completed second planking, used walnut sawdust to fill cracks and voids, then sanded hull and taped off deck in preparation of painting internal bulwarks. Installed stem, under-stem, stern post and main keel. Next up will be to apply a couple coats of matte varnish to hull, install bulwark stanchions and paint internal bulwarks white.
  4. Completed second planking below bulwarks starboard side. Will sand and finish when port side complete and keel installed.
  5. Not initially. I had to do some additional sanding and filing to make it fit the false keel better. So there was minimum empty space visible when placing the keel piece against the bow curve. I may need to do some more tweaking after I have completed the second planking. I don't plan on painting the hull so I've been saving the walnut sawdust created during the second planking to use as a potential filler medium if needed. Hope I don't.
  6. And I thought that I went overboard when I started this hobby! I have 4 recently purchased model kits still in my queue to do, but I've finished 5 so far and working on my 6th. Hope you at least had the opportunity to start and finish a couple. None of these kits are for beginners. As the saying goes, "looks like your eyes were bigger than your stomach". If I had the time left in life and wasn't so deep into things myself already....
  7. Started second hull planking. Using an estimate of a maximum plank length of approximately 4.5 inches at a scale of 1/75 I rounded up to a scale length of 120mm which represents a real plank length of about 30 feet. Then I divided the hull length which is 540mm long into 18 sections of 30mm each and drew lines perpendicular to the keel every 30mm. Therefore a plank would span a maximum of 4 sections. I created a plank butting pattern so the 120mm planks butts would line up correctly. Then I divided the hull into 3 planking stripes using battens as I did for the first planking level (but just drew lines for the strips since I now have a smooth hull to lay the planks on). I wanted the planking to look realistic and I thought trying to lay one long plank the length of the hull would also be more difficult. It appears like this will be a slow process as I am so far averaging only about 2 or 3 strakes a day with and estimate of of 20-21 strakes per hull side. Which means about 2 to 3 weeks to complete. I am using the proportional divider technique I used for the first planking layer for tapering the planks. Heres what I've got so far.
  8. Applied deck planking supplied in kit in maximum lengths of 75mm, staggering butts and adding pencil lead on plank edges to simulate caulking. Sanded smooth and then stained with a wheat colored wood stain. Bent waterway timber using leftover deck boards as a pattern and then glued to deck edges. This is not realistic as the real ship has the forward planks nibbed and the aft planks curved with thinner planks, but it's as specified in the kit instructions. Followed up with 3 coats of clear wipe-on poly. Installed the bulwarks supplied in the kit. I can see why this posed problems and wasn't used in some builds or practicums. I did my best. Instructions said to start at bow and work your way back toward the stern after gluing the two bow pieces together. I ended up working from the stern forward gluing and pinning the bulwarks to the hull as I went along. One side seemed to fit OK with only minor gaps, but the other ended up with much larger gaps in some places. Used water putty to fill in the gaps, then sanded smooth and marked location of bulkheads and planking belts in preparation for second hull planking. Added transom and filled in gap at bow so the current hull merged more cleanly with the bulwarks. Next up is to test fit the stem and keel pieces and are any last minute adjustments before followed by the second planking .
  9. Completed first layer of hull planking. Sanded hull smooth, filled a few cracks and voids with Durhams Rock Hard Water Putty and after further sanding applied a thin coat of Liquitex modeling paste and then a final sanding was done. Didn't go for a perfectly smooth finish as this will be my first application of a second planking layer. Even though I will probably paint the hull, I wanted the experience as in the past I've only ever done a single layer of planking followed by a painted hull. Began applying decking using material supplied in the kit. May not be authentic but I don't want to go to any extra expenses for material for this kit. Began to read ahead on non-manufacturers instructions for applying stanchions, Earl's practicum says the real ship has 56 per side 29 on the foredeck and 27 on the afterdeck spaced 9mm apart. I decided to go with the kits 35 per side assuming 18 on the foredeck and 17 on the afterdeck. The kit instructions say the positions of the stanchions are on the plans but I have been unable to find any, so according to my calculations at this time in my case the spacing would end up being 14.5 mm, since the stanchions in the kit are 3mm wide I will create a 11.5mm spacer to separate the stanchions. The newer kits appear to include a stanchion spacer and a jig for spacing the scuppers, but I have an older kit so I'll have to fabricate my own.
  10. Continuing planking, finished first belt and moving on into second belt. I was sidelined for over two weeks because of a back injury and couldn't make it downstairs to work on the model, but I'm back at it now. Not perfect, but then again this is just the first layer.
  11. Tried to use tic strips and measuring with a steel ruler and using the ruler as edging for scalpel cuts to adjust the taper of the planks but didn't care for the results. Instead I switched to using my proportional dividers to make the measurements and a strip clamp combined with a mini hand plane to create the tapers. I've laid the first two planks on both the port and starboard sides so far. I am adjusting the proportional dividers to fit the remaining distance as I go along rather than make all the planks on a side the same. So I started with the dividers set at 7 for the first plank as the instructions said to lay 7 planks in this run. I then reset the dividers to 6 for the second plank. I plan on continuing 5, 4, 3, 2 etc. in hopes that it ends up adjusting for any errors that may creep in as I go along. We'll see if that works out. I plan on doing a second planking as I've never done a second planking so far. I've always ending up filling any dips with wood filler and after final sanding painting the hull. Since I already have a completed model of the original Bluenose I might leave this version unpainted or just partially painted and leave the lower hull just stained.
  12. Bulkheads faired (hopefully correct) and planking battens nailed on according to J. Earl's suggestions in part 2 of his build articles. Needed to add shims to parts of bulkheads 3, 8 and 11.
  13. This is the beginning of my build log for the Bluenose II. A previous build of the original Bluenose was my first successful wooden boat completion. I started this Bluenose II a long time ago (its an older version of the kit), but stopped shortly after installing the bulkheads on the keel. I have other models in my queue and I will pick one to build alongside this one, but I thought it would be appropriate to finish what I had started. I have scanned all the build logs for the Bluenose II on this site and am a little wary of the small percentage of completed builds but I'll give it a go. This kit, although smaller than the Bluenose kit I built seems to be a lot more detailed. I may even attempt to mount sails on this one. I downloaded a copy of the build instructions for the newer versions of the kit to supplement the build (color pictures and pre-made sails no less). I will be using the build logs by Penfold, Heronguy, Bulwark, and Bertu as guides as well as John Earl's on line guide, Eisnor's scratch build practicum, and Mastini's book as a guide. Unfortunately I had already missed a few steps when I put the keel and bulkheads together, so I'll be picking up at a later stage having missed such items a checking the symmetry of the bulkheads, etc. I added the mast supports, nailed and glued on the false decks and have started fairing the hull. I didn't notice any warping of the keel that was apparent in some of the later versions of the kit as noted by other peoples build logs. Wish me luck.
  14. Thank you for the nice complement. My success with this model rests mainly on the excellent step by step instructions that were included in the kit.
  15. I see my problem, I need to click the > and not the title. My bad!
  16. When I try to start a new member’s build log the selections under member’s build logs are eyed out and cannot be selected.
  17. Finished the skipjack. Mounted on board. Instructions suggested mounting using to dowels pinned to board and keel, but this proved to be unstable so I added a third dowel to make the result more stable. Added number boards, running lights, name plates, anchor and chain, cargo hatch rings, etc.
  18. Rigged the spectacle halyard and installed the lazy jacks on the jib sail. Installed head rails and supports. Installed bowsprit shroud. Installed main sail lazy jacks. Installed clew reef lines. Rigged the main sheet. Installed the centerboard pendant and tackle. Rigged the shrouds and sheer poles. Installed the pin rails , fastened the spectacle halyard to the pin rail and rigged the cargo hook and belayed both to the port pin rail. Rigged the jib sheet to the deck horse then up to a block on the mast and finally down to the cleat on the front of the mast.
  19. Does anyone use a tool, such as a bead knotting tool or a fly tying tool to tie knots when rigging a ship? If so, do you have any recommendations?
  20. Tried to cut the tops of the frame for the top-line when tragedy struck. Because of lack of stiffness in the foam board I'm using combined with the fact that I compromised the integrity of the foam board when deepening the slots in stemson some frames broke off and had to be redone. In addition some of the frames did not stay level requiring shims to be added to even out the frames prior to fairing. I'll do my best to try a correct the prob less so I gt a fair hull before starting the planking. I think this kit could be improved (thou it may make it cost more) if the stepson was replaced with a half center keel and half bulkheads like in the Model Shipways Glad Tidings kit. This would eliminate the need to deepen the slots in the stepson and provide a more stable support for the framing than the current kit. Just my opinion, for what it's worth. I'm just a beginner at this but I think that's what this kit is geared toward. Is it an introduction to planking or as it seems to me to be an introduction to framing and planking?
  21. Installed reefing lines. Had a problem with the line provided in the kit. Once installed the reefing lines stuck out instead of lying flat due to the stiffness of the line. Removed the reefing lines and reinstalled using thread that hung more naturally. Also installed the jib stay and rigged the jib sail. Painted the chain white. Installed the jib halyard and the jib club. I installed the jib club incorrectly and had to remove it and reinstall. Ended up tearing the foot of the jib slightly and will need to try and correct that. Made up the spectacles and installed along with the head stay. Photo shows spectacles with bridles hanging from the mast head, otherwise it just slides down the head stay until I attach it to the spectacle halyard in a future step.
  22. Installed the dredge winch and the assembled engine box. Installed A-frame and ran cable thru blocks and attached to oyster dredges and place on fabricated deck sheathing. Added the deck house, water cask and wheel box. Added rudder horns and connecting rods. Added push boat block. Added push boat to stern davits with block and tackle. Drew sail pattern on fabric and cutout sails. Mounted mast with sail, halyard and topping lift on deck
  23. Added transom piece and filler. Busy with Skipjack so didn't have time to do much this week. Filler piece for transom is made from scrap. There was plenty of space on the laser cut boards for use (see white box in photo) don't know why a part for this filler couldn't have been included.
  24. Fabricated and installed davit to hold push boat. Created "A" frame and painted black. Created and installed horizontal and vertical rollers. Created oyster dredges. Created and installed gammon iron to bowsprit. Created cradle for water cask and painted white. Created stove stack and painted black. Painted windlass black and installed behind Samson post with holes to accept anchor chains. Installed jib sheet deck horse. Drilled hole to accept mast pin. Glued on forepeak hatch, stove stack and cargo hatch.
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