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Rob S

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Everything posted by Rob S

  1. Hello everyone! Hope you are staying safe and healthy and that you/yours have been safely vaccinated. Summer is nearly upon us and I'm taking this opportunity to step away from the shipyard for a bit to enjoy the nice weather and do some outdoors type activities. I've been briefly in/out of the shipyard to complete the bow area and will be in the later summer/early, GLW, ramping up working on finishing the quarterdeck area moldings, etc. I'm also reading 'Nelson, a Dream of Glory' by John Sugden to get a better understanding of Nelson's earlier years and exploits. So far, fascinating reading. Please be sure to have a safe and enjoyable summer season and keep up the good work on your models! Rob S
  2. Still working on the bow finishing and have painted and installed the starboard false rail. These rails are made of lead and you can see where they don’t seamlessly interface with the main rail. The lead will break if I attempt to bend it, even a little. My thought will be to shape and put a piece of wood in the gap. I’m not aware of any more elegant type solutions. Lesson learned may be to fit the false and main rails while shaping the main rails to minimize that gap. There is a larger gap on the port side.
  3. Marine’s walk with accompanying grate (1 of 2). I’ve tried a new approach to mitigating the grate brittleness with associated breakage by gluing the side grates (see pencil point for one) on each of 4 sides and then I was able to successfully tailor the sides without the whole thing falling apart. Still some additional work to get it to properly fit. Next pictures will show the completed item installed.
  4. Working some of the detail as I complete the bow area. The knightheads are 3mm x 3mm walnut laths that I used a small chisel with the laths held in a vise. The grates did not turn out as I had hoped.
  5. Port side bow finishes in work. A few rough areas to work after roughing in the support material.
  6. Thank you Henrik. My grate pieces look the same but are very brittle, which makes it difficult to shape them after assembly and glue.
  7. Starboard side ‘roughly’ completed. Need to correct the forward rails extension over the main rail.
  8. Henrik - I just noticed the nice bend in your bow cheek in the picture above. It appears to be shaped laterally. Did you shape the cheeks? If so, what is your secret? Every time I attempt to shape my walnut laths (2mm wide) laterally, the wood cracks even after prolonged immersion in water. I also see your grates look pristine. Any tips you want to share about assembling/glueing/tailoring them? My grates are brittle and don’t stay together very well. Thanks! BTW, I just came across your Hood build; very nice work! Rob S
  9. Continuing to assemble the bow finishing elements. Still can’t adequately bend the 1.5mm x 3mm walnut laths laterally without breaking them. This is after a 2 day soak and using an electric plank bender (see earlier section in my log if interested). I’ve come up with a non elegant, but working solution using a 5mm plank and cutting it down to 3mm and manually adding the curve. The original, unbendable walnut lath on top, the replacement 5mm lime lath (left over planking) and cut out/modified piece. The resultant attached piece is shown (unpainted).
  10. Bow progress as of this morning. Grate work is challenging as they fall apart and need continuing glue application. Especially when shaping them.
  11. Thank you for the examples Gregory. In my opinion this is a better option for displaying by taking up less room but still looks good. The bow work is coming along and looking better, in my opinion.
  12. Here is the first step back. Symmetry is much better looking down, however the port main rail ‘bow’ appears more significant. This may be OK... depending.
  13. Thanks Gregory; appreciate the advice. However, I’m planning to finish the model ‘hull down’ per the below picture. Will that still be an issue in this case?
  14. Well, here WAS my bow section.... What a mess. I’ve since dismantled everything on the bow and am starting over including removing the main rails. The dismantling process went well and I’ll be able to reuse most everything. I’ve got some good bow section examples to study further and hopefully I’ll be able to laugh about this debacle later!
  15. This is a great build for a newbie to planking to see how it’s done. It’s amazing how some modelers make it seem so simple. This log helps one see the process in logical steps. Very nice!
  16. All modelers know that gluing/attaching some ship components are relatively straight forward through the use of ‘classic’ temporary means (e.g., nails, clamps, weights, etc.). What I’d like to know is those little secrets modeler’s use to attach those pesky/difficult items where a classic method isn’t readily appropriate. I’ve attached an example where the main rails on the Mamoli Victory were difficult to attach. You can see in the example by the red arrows the two places where the starboard main rail attaches. The right end simply sets on top of the beak head. However, there was no obvious (at least to me) way to temporarily hold both ends in place while the glue set. I did not have a clamp/area that I thought would hold either end in place. The area was too small for a nail to work. I couldn’t set a weight on top of the beak head to hold the right side in place. I was a bit stymied. Perhaps I just didn’t think it through enough...... In this case I ended up lodging a small screw driver in the bow area to hold the left end up while the right side simply sat on a bubble of glue. Very precarious and unstable. However, in this case it worked. Not the ideal way to get the job done. Are there other difficult to attach elements/components in your ship build(s) that required some out of the box thinking to temporarily hold the piece in place while the glue set?
  17. Main rails installed. What a time attempting to secure them in place while the glue dried!?
  18. Hey Emmet! Hope you and yours are well. Will you be heading to your summer home soon? Looking forward to you resuming the Vic! Take care. Rob S
  19. Here are the BEFORE pictures of the ‘finished’ bow cheeks using what I understand are the Mamoli directions. However, I’ve not added all the layers they suggest as the cheeks would extend 8mm from the bow surface at their widest point. These extend 4mm. Next is to continue sanding, add minimal filler and sand again. Then on to the main rails.
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