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Everything posted by Jeffrey
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I did not paint the mast hoops. If you do paint them, use enamel paint. Take care and stay healthy. Jeff
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Thank you Bill. Nice work on the hull. Looks like you are well on your way to a fine looking model. Regards and safety to you and yours as well.
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Hello Jeffrey,
Studying your build and a mentor for your wonderful work on the "Hero" since January 2020, question for you. Did you paint your mast hoops or keep them stock brass, I can not tell by the pictures. If brass they look clean. Your post have been a great help and inspiration.
I hope family and you are safe and healthy. Thank you.
Bill T.
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I have the Revenue Cutter that I would like to start sometime; however, I would really like to tackle the We're Here. I really like the lines on this boat. Hoping not take on more than I can handle. I would really like to have some plank on frame experience, so any suggestions?
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Finished! Not perfect, but good enough for my first attempt at a new kind of modeling. I noticed the the mast sticks up a bit too far and the decal transfers did not work as well as I had hoped. I have mixed results with these in the past. Anyway, not bad at all and I really enjoyed the project. I would welcome feedback to help improve my skills.
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Installed the mast and started on the rigging. I seized the forstay I solved the hurdle of the eye bolts. I did not like what was supplied with the kit for fitting the blocks, so I am using 30 gauge steel wire wound and shaped into an eye-bolt. Hardly noticeable. This is my first wood ship model, and I was very reluctant to start one, but after researching I really appreciate the quality of the kits and personal feedback that Nick and the folks folks at Bluejacket provide. Light at the end of the tunnel. I anchored the forestay using the seizing technique used by J Brent at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzDl5MYOgmQ&list=FL-IuytKOPJkBPU7CHxuRS7g&index=4&t=68s
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Question: I am getting close to attaching the rigging blocks to the mast/gaff/boom eyes that I have inserted into the appropriate locations. Both the rigging blocks and the eyes, each attach together to hold the rigging block, both have closed eyes. Any suggestions as to how they attach together?
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Toe rail completed. Installed bowsprit and Samson post. Deck is now clear coated. Looking forward to the rigging.
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Tried the suggestion to pre-drill the toe rails and insert metal wire. I used my hobby pins in place of the wire. The suggestion is appreciated and got me going. Have to remember this. Moving on. Thanks!
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Thanks for the feedback. I will look into the rubber band idea. I was going to use super glue, but I hate the stuff since there is very little forgiveness in screwing up in the short time it takes to setup.
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Permanently installed the cabin. Installed the deck molding around the cabin. I've pre-formed and pre-painted the toe rails. The bowsprit is completed and ready to installed. Noodling with how to install the toe rail. I may have to resort to super glue and install in portions while waiting for the glue to dry. I really try to avoid this stuff, but at times it is necessary. The kit instructions suggests using pins, but from my extensive experience in building wood airplanes, that method will leave pin holes and may split the wood. Any suggestions out there?
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Deck is stained and the completed cabin is temporarily fitted in place to see how everything looks. On to the bowsprit, toe rails, and cabin molding. Looking pretty good I think for a first timer wooden boat modeler. Many skills and lessons learned gathered in other modeling hobbies definitely transfer to this hobby.
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Completed the cabin. Moving to water lining the hull and shaping/installing rudder. I gave up on the enamel paint. I use solely acrylics for my models, which are far more forgiving, work faster, and less of a hassle. The mahogany wood was clear coated using a water base semi-gloss by Minwax, the same clear coat that I will use on the deck after staining with a Minwax stain. For painting the hull, I will airbrush Tamiya hull red and deep green. When using acrylics, I always seal the paint with a clear lacquer spray finish. For this project I will use a clear matte finish.
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Installed strakes and completed primer. Onto the rudder, drawing the water line, and finishing the cabin.
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Cabin is mostly built and temporarily installed so that I can eventually oil the deck and paint the cabin without any hassle. Now onto minor wood filling and primer, and the next step. Doing things a bit out of order from the instructions. Using concepts from plastic model building to reduce painting hassles.
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Deck is installed and awaiting a little wood putty and finish sanding. Bow and stern posts still need trimming. Onward to building the cabin, followed by deck staining before cabin installation. Will take some time for working stiffs like me. Enjoying this very much. Later!
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Actually, just had a thought. I could add thickness to the bow post to fill in the deck notch. This might work, then the toe boards would match up on this end anyway.
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Deck glued onto hull. Deck did not line up forward into bow post. Fix this with a bit of wood filler. Similar with the stern post. Here I will add a thickness of wood using scrap. Toe boards will not line up exactly onto the posts, but good enough for a first timer.
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Keel is installed and hull has primer to help get a good final finish sanding. Next will be the cabin followed by fitting the deck and trimming down to size.
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Thanks for the feedback. It was my intent to prime/fill/sand, but as you suggested I will do this before adding the deck. I will also cut down the deck to fit the hull, because the hull size matches the plans, and the deck is oversized. My exact sentiments, good is good enough, and only I will notice. I need to get past the hull challenge, because I am really looking forward to the topside building and rigging.
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Have the hull nearly completed. Minor sanding remaining, then the keel pieces. After the deck is installed, I will use white spray primer to check and correct any irregularities on the hull.
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The hull is the same size, and the deck is larger than what is on the plans. This should be an easy fix. Feedback?
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I was disappointed to see that the kit’s hull is already under-sized at the stern before even getting started in removing any wood. Is this common? Can I easily correct this and still get a decent looking finished model?
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