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alpayed

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About alpayed

  • Birthday 09/11/1953

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    Male
  • Location
    Melbourne Australia
  • Interests
    Ship modelling, Classic cars

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  1. Hi Guys. I just purchased this. Well done great work Yuri. Page 88 Fore and Main number of shrouds should be 6 pairs I think. (Not 7) See attached extracts. Whilst reconstructing Investigator I have found errors in Steel's work. For example the proportions of the heel of the fore topmast does not fit between the fore trestle trees. Anyhow I am not trying to be critical, after all, every great work was penned by a human. (not sure about the future though) Regards Allan
  2. Hi Pat. I just joined in the conversation. I thought I might add fuel to the fire so to speak. I had already thinned the wales on the Investigator plans a couple of months ago so the topic is timely. I think (IMHO) that it was common practice in British ships. There is the odd draught that shows otherwise but not many. Chapman depicts a lot of "non British" ships and the protruding wales seem a lot more common in those vessels. Interestingly the wales on Chapman's "Cat" are flush with the rebet. As you know and as discussed above there was a evolution into smooth hulls. We should chat soon. Regards Allan Investigator_08_part.
  3. It seems obvious when looking at RMG plans that the wales thin in thickness at the stem rebet. This also means that the diminishing strakes below must also thin at the stem. However looking at the draughts in F H Chapman's works you would be drawn to disagree. The majority of his draughts show the wales protruding onto the stem somewhat. There are exceptions though. PLXV #21 clearly shows no protrusion. PLXVI #22 Shows no protrusion on the draught but clearly shows a protrusion on the perspective view. The RMG draught of Trinity Lighter is the only evidence of a thinning Wale. Conclusion?? I DON'T KNOW Interesting discussion though. Regards Allan
  4. Hi Photog. I use a rope walk which I made years ago. I like to use rayon to make ropes as it does not make ropes with fuzz on them.
  5. Hi Jerry. I just downloaded it again and no problems. I am not sure what the problem is. Maybe someone else has an answer. Regards Allan
  6. Hi. The 3 green lines on the last photo look good for the planking. Some of these kits could do with a couple more frames at the bow and stern and a transom would help a lot. Sometimes I think that the people who design them have never built a model. Keep up the good work it will give you great pleasure despite the tears. Regards Allan
  7. Just a note of interest. About 3 years ago I owned and ran a small business in Melbourne Australia. A regular customer who I had known for some 10 years came in to buy some goods. I knew he was a pilot and that he had given up flying because of his age and the authorities revoked his licence. During the discussion I asked him what was his favorite plane. I was somewhat surprised when he replied Messerschmitt 109. I had a few discussions with him after this and was in total admiration him. Imagine being taken off the streets of Berlin at the age of 15, given 2 weeks training, and sent off to war. He also flew the first Jets too. (363)? I have now lost contact with him but have good memories of his stories. Love the model by the way. Keep up the good work. Regards Allan
  8. A log would be nice. Usually dipping the plank in boiling water for a minute is sufficient to bend the them. The thicker plank allows you a bit more to sand off to finish the hull. Good luck I would like to see some pics as you progress. Allan.
  9. Hi Hashir. 2.5 to 3mm is a good thickness to work with. That would alter your overall width though. Maybe that doesn't matter. Allan.
  10. No problems Dave. Keep up the good work. Sometimes I will make something 2 or 3 times before I get 1 that I am happy with. They say practice makes perfect but that's optimistic in my case. I get better with practice and I am sure you will too. Regards Allan.
  11. That may not be obvious but essentially I would make the mast in 2 pieces. The round lower part and a rectangular upper part. Then dowel the 2 parts together and blend the upper part to the round lower part. The bibs then glued on. Add on the wooldings and battens. A blind man would be glad to see it as the saying goes. I have built many masts this way and almost impossible to see as a completed mast. Regards Allan.
  12. OK Dave. Allan' cheat way of mast making coming up. Stay tuned. Endeavour main mast_1.pdf
  13. OK Dave. Allan' cheat way of mast making coming up. Stay tuned.
  14. Thanks Dave. The rule of thumb is that the mizen cap should be level with the main top, not the top of the main mast. But yes that is where I would be heading.. Allan
  15. Here you go Dave. This may help. Built from 3 pieces. The spindle is 1 piece with a cheek added to each side. The foremast would be the same just proportionally smaller (x.94) according to the Woolwich dimensions. The short mizen mast is a whole new discussion. Personally I agree with Karl's argument that the Woolwich mizen length is an error. The woolwich dimension is 604" (easy to work in inches) which is 0.726 x main mast. Lees says x.86 and Steel x.85 although he lists x.75 for a sloop. There is a lot of discussion on this point. Regards AllanEndeavour main mast.pd
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