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capnharv2

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About capnharv2

  • Birthday 11/15/1955

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Puget Sound
  • Interests
    Sailing ship models, sailing, restoring old wooden boats

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  1. Plastic or not, almost anything can be saved and/or restored. The real question is-are the time and money spent on a project like this worth it to you?
  2. And if you ever use it in a joint on a wooden boat, have fun getting it out. . . . Harvey
  3. Kurt, Your parts drawing of the 150 shows an angled slot in the 50-035 body below part# 50-042 back lever (the curved piece). My old 150 had no such slot, other than the longitudinal one. It made it a real pain to re-assemble. My question is-was that angled slot put in at a later time (mine is a 1980's vintage), did something miss QC before shipment, or did I get a cheap rip off?? Floyd has my old airbrush now. I bought a cheap Iwata knock off, but it does the job for now. Thanks! Harvey
  4. Floyd, Are either one my old Badger 150? And are you using the compressor that I gave you? I added an aftermarket water trap and pressure gauge (I think from Micro-mark) I played with pressures from 15-50psi (the compressor maxed out at 60psi). I never seemed to put out enough pressure/flow. Compared to the MAS G23 I have now (my Iwata knock-off) the compressor (that came with it) puts out a lot more air than the compressor that came with my 150. Which brings up another question-have you tried attaching it to a high volume compressor (like a shop compressor) and dialed the pressure down to 15-20psi? My gut (the part that's not sick) tells me the problem lies not in the airbrush, but in the available pressure/volume. And, as Kurt noted, the Badger 150 is probably too small (even with a large needle) to cover lots of area at one time. Anyway, a few thoughts from the sickie. Thanks, Harvey
  5. So, what will you do when you hear the phrases "you build model boats don't you? Call this guy. he has money" again? My instinct would be-run! Thanks for sharing this Floyd. It's been fun and interesting to hear the progress and see your work up close. Harvey
  6. How much did you get Rob? We got about 16-18". We're lucky that we never lost power. A lot of people (including you) have been less lucky. So, you've been watching TV by candle light??🤣
  7. I've had some luck with annealing the wire before stretching it. Heat it till it turns red, let it cool, then try pulling on it. It's possible the wire on the the roll is already work hardened, and will hold its current (bent) shape. Hope that helps. Harvey
  8. Rob, One question about the pictures. The planking between the waterline and the sheer of the original ship appears to be uncaulked (in the second picture, it almost appears lapstrake). It also seems to protrude (or maybe cover) the wales. I wonder if this was an additional layer of planking while she was a receiving ship? Is there much information out there for the years she was a receiving ship? That would make for a fascinating model. Thanks, Harvey
  9. Looks great Rob! Question-how did you get your relaxed lifts to hang so perfectly? I always end up with a twisted mess. Thanks, Harvey
  10. Rob, How portable is your GR? I'd sure like to see it at our next PSSM meeting at the Foss Museum (sometime this spring-I don't know when yet). The model looks fantastic. Most realistic sails in a long time. Harvey
  11. I know a few people that use Fusion 360 and love it. Be aware that the full blown AutoCad Suite is pricey. https://www.autodesk.com/products/autocad/subscribe?plc=ACDIST&term=1-YEAR&support=ADVANCED&quantity=1 And there are many more knowledgeable folks on this forum who can help you find a CAD package that fits your needs. Thanks, Harvey
  12. Ed, Earlier you said "Only lines 4" and above on my model use made rope." I was wonder earlier, is this 4" diameter or 4" circumference? I prefer working with diameters, but am aware that circumference was used historically Thanks for the clarification. Harvey

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