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seafarermiami

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About seafarermiami

  • Birthday 12/21/1960

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Miami Beach
  • Interests
    sailing, ship model building, painting

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    sierazulu60@yahoo.com
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    seafarermiami

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  1. From the practical point of view the ratlines should be tarred. First I don't think somebody would keep them clear when tarring is going on a regular basis. At least where the knots are for sure they are tarred. Second as a standing rigging this will prolong their life at least twice. And the third I don't think somebody would care for the cleanliness of the sailors feet at that time. They never had a boots besides. The other think is that in tropical climate all the oils of the tar evaporates in two days and is not sticky at all.
  2. Sails should be attached to the yards. Start from the mizen mast and go ahead first rigging the lower sails. Some lines for the topsails can be attached to their pins first and made trough all blocks and narrow places and thus after rigging the lower sails will be easy to rig the upper one. Look at my build log for the Dutch fleyte.
  3. Thank you it took me roughly some 100 feet of treads.
  4. This small scale model represent type of ships built in Holland. The model is 7 inches long from the stern lantern to the tip of the bowsprit.
  5. Next step - the lionfigure on the bow I already had made the head of the lion - which some people thought was a dogs head. Hm on my fluyte my daughter set it looks like her tedy bear. But for me is lion
  6. Some progress. The lines that are hanging above foresail are for the rigging of the fore tops'l. It is easier to attach them first to the belaing pins and after the sail is placed to tie them from top.
  7. Let's make a difference. Capstan is with vertical axel. Windlass is with the horizontal axel.
  8. Some parts had to be detached from the deck in order to tread the lines trough the rollers and then glued back again. Home made needle for treading lines trough rollers
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