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Retired guy

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  1. When drilling a hole like that you could drill one size smaller and then file to size it would save wood splitting. Regards Richard
  2. That sounds like a great idea Jeff and thanks for looking in and commenting. Hi Bob thanks for the link, not sure why you regret to placing the chanplates flush with the hull they should be, or are you thinking they should be notched into the planking? flush to the hull? I think it is flush with the hull and you and I have done it correct. Not sure if you have heard of Philip Eisnor he spent a number of years researching the Bluenose and then made is own drawings of her and some of the maritime museum curators suggested that Mr Eisnors drawings are the most accurate of her, I did buy his drawings many years ago and did talk to him on the phone and he told me he had built over 40 models of her, you can buy his drawings on www.modelshipbuilder.com there is also a Bluenose Practicum by Gene Bodnar using Philips drawings on the same site. Here are small pic of his drawing regarding chainplate and a picture of his model (this is for help with build if not allowed please delete) and you will see he has installed chainplated flush with the hull, I am not sure he would have done that if it wasn't correct but I do think he has his chainplates too thick. They have the same on the Model Shipways drawing, they give a dimension of .008" thick chainplates so x by 64 = Just over 1/2" thick Looking at two pictures on the Nova Scotia site (this is to help with build if not allowed please delete) I can see the chainplates are sticking out flush with hull. First pic Bluenose in 1921 Next pic of Bluenose 11 I could not find any other close up pictures which could help but it does look like they do stick out. I am no expert on this subject, if there is anyone near the Bluenose and could take a picture or even measure the thickness of the chainplate and let us know that would be fantastic. Regards Richard
  3. Thanks a lot Keith linkage worked out how I wanted, I am hoping that it might turn the Rudder when I install ๐Ÿค” Hi Bob thanks very much for your comments trying to get her as close as possible to what I see in the drawings and pictures. The great information I have got from asking google ๐Ÿ˜ and just got a couple of pictures from Robin, would you happen to have any? Regards Richard
  4. You are going to have a nice surface to glue to looks good ๐Ÿ‘ Regard Richard
  5. Very nice build going on Robin lots of likes ๐Ÿ‘ Regards Richard
  6. Very nice Dave isn't it fun to do scratch building, but when you think of it the kit comes with a few pieces which are laser cut, or white metal but all the wood you need to something with it, so that is scratch work ๐Ÿ‘ Regards Richard
  7. Thank you very much Dave do love to do extreme details as long as I can have a drawing or a picture which I can scale Thanks Fright do appreciate your post and yes she does look beautiful Hey Mugje was a steel fabricator so yes sort of had a background and thanks very much for your comment Welcome aboard Allan thanks very much for your kind comment Hi Dave thanks a lot its been a lot of fun to make this great schooner Thank you Novastorm she is an amazing schooner and to think when she was first made in 1921 it only took 97 days to build her, and the builder said at time of giving his price he said he would build her in 100 days not bad eh Again would like to thanks everyone for the likes and do appreciate all the comments Regards Richard
  8. Another superb update Keith, have been told I am bonkers for doing the small details but now I can say there are a lot more of us well done it is a pleasure to see. Regards Richard
  9. Starting on making the steering linkage system, I pinned and glued a piece of rod to the rudder then drilled a hole through the deck, then cut it down to size as per drawing provided. Made a jig so that I could build the linkage off the model, made the same size rod and glued it to the same angle Started with the bracket which went on the rudder shaft, machined the collar then machined two half circles 180 deg apart so that I could solder two small tubes for the connection arms Did not use the first shaft I made because the nuts were to big so threaded some brass with a 1/16"-60 Whit die, threaded both parts but I know one needed to be a left hand thread and I didn't have one. Then made the top shaft connection bracket, started with a 1" long piece of round brass, then taking another piece of the same size brass machined one of the side connection with the step, filed so that it would fit the round brass, for the other side I drilled a hole and inserted a piece of brass rod then soldered both parts, put it in the lathe and drilled and then taped with the same size 1/16"-60 Whit after that I saw cut to the size as per drawing. Arms for the lower part were up next used .010" brass sheared to size, drill holes then made a spacer and soldered together then carefully bent them to shape, made the bottom shaft connection same as top except there are two step side pieces and also I did not tap. Last thing was to make the top link arm using .010" brass, shear to size, drill and filing to shape and the back bracket So now to put all pieces together I like to see how parts work and then build them in miniature, it was fun to make next up will be to install onto the rudder shaft. Regards Richard
  10. Got this to come Mark so will be watching. good start, you might have said what glue are you using CA? Regards Richard

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