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Cornish Pirate

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Mousehole, West Cornwall, UK
  • Interests
    photography, model making, gardening

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  1. Thanks Agryss - the others are the parts for the small cranked winches by the deadeyes. Apart from the copper plates, I did find myself short of 6mm dowel. According to my calculations, they did not supply quite enough for all the masts and spars defined as 6mm. Haven't got to the chain yet, but I suspect David is correct and it will be short!

  2. Hi David Thank you for getting back to me. I can see now that the 5 brackets are for the yards (although I thought there should have been 6!) and by default if found the other parts were for the small cranked winches on the side channels. I think their brass eyelets look out of scale (too large) and am replacing most of them with smaller copper eyelets which I am making myself out of copper wire. I agree with your comment about the flag being rubbish but it is also technically incorrect as it is the union jack as oppose to the red ensign which Cutty Sark would have flown! This is my third Cutty Sark, firstly a Revell plastic job, then the Billing, now the Mantua. I have some attachment to her as my dad built a scratch model of her whilst on air raid duty during the war (which I still have) and I did my Naval training on HMS Worcester which owned the Cutty Sark until she was given to the nation & moved to Greenwich. The billing model I built was sold to an American who was on his honeymoon in the UK, that in turn paid for most of my wedding and the model ended up somewhere in San Diego! Stay safe!
  3. Hello David I have been making steady progress with my 'Cutty', frustrated as you were with the occasional 'shortage' of parts but overall happy with the kit. I have virtually finished the hull and working on the masts and spars but I now have a mystery that I am hoping you may be able to assist with! Attached is a picture of some small brass parts which I cannot identify. Ive looked through all the instructions and diagrams and still cannot work out what they were for. They were originally packed in a small plastic bag with the copper strip which made me think they were something to do with the attachments to the masts but I am no clearer. Can you recall what they were? Thank yo and I hope you are bearing up under the 'lockdown' Charles
  4. Hi David Thanks for getting back to me. I actually purchased the model online form Cornwall Model Boats who are a bit cheaper than Mantua. However, I agree that 'Mother Mantua' should come to the party and I'll contact them direct to see what they say. I am dreaming of copper plates now but the end is in sight. I reckon I've got about 300 to go! Well done on completing your model. What now?
  5. Hi David I have been quiet for a while (!) mainly because I was progressing well and , using your details, hadn't come across any major issues - BUT, like you, I find myself well short of copper plates. I have completed one side and done about 25% of the other side but am almost out. Mantua claim that there are 2,400 plates with the kit (it feels like it after trimming and gluing that lot!) which leaves me about 500 to 1000 short. Not happy http Mantua have under-supplied, especially as to purchase in the UK form a local modelling supplier, they are £5.69 per pack of 100! That means I would have to fork out another £50 or so to complete it! Unfortunately, I can't see any way round that but I do feel hard done by!
  6. Hi David The square holes are known as 'freeing ports' and their purpose is to free the decks of heavy seas...nothing to do with cannons! The scuppers are the 'gutters' if you like running fore and aft along the edge of the deck. The gather the water that's on the deck (rain, sea) and stop it sloshing around the deck.....I still think the model is probably incorrect! I'm planning to visit my daughter in London later this year and will pop down to Greenwich to look at the 'real thing'. Regards Charles
  7. Hi David Thanks for your useful response. That has thrown me slightly as I hadn't appreciated that there was a moulding to go around the edge of the deck planking (maybe didn't absorb what I read on first view...). I have been looking at Nepean Longridge's book whilst building and thought I was being clever (and accurate?) by stopping the deck planking short of the hull/bulwark to show the effect of scuppers used to drain away the water. I spent 40 years at sea (including 3 years on an old training ship) and have always seen scuppers at the edge of the decking - obvious really to drain away storm water, especially on a clipper where the decks were frequently awash. So, what am I saying - that the model kit is incorrect? Maybe!! I will delay decision on this until after I have finished the hull planking (probably several months away!!) Thanks again and regards Charles
  8. Hi David Thanks fro your response are the decking. I am doing it before the hull planking and have almost finished - using Nepean Longridge's quite complex planking layout which hurts the brain but looks good. Used waxed black thread to simulate the caulked joins between the planks. Looking ahead, I can see a small issue that none seems to have commented on - how did you 'remove' the frame ribs above the deck after planking the hull? also, wouldn't it make the removal easier if the planks were not glued to the ribs, just pinned? I am, of course, a long ay behind you but hoping to ride on the shirt tails of your knowledge if you know what I mean. Thanks for any assistance Regards Charles (alias Cornish Pirate)
  9. Good day gents! I am an 'newbie' to this site, although not to ship modelling - this will be my tenth over many years, including several 'scratch' models. Recently had a twenty year 'gap' to work/raise family but now starting on the Sergal CS. I have an idea that it would be easier to plank the deck before fitting it to the hull....can anyone see a reason why not? Also, I have in the past 'caulked' my deck planking using fine black cotton thread - any comment? Appreciate any input! regards from stormy Cornwall in the west fo England
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