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PhillH

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    North Bucks
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    Modelling and Motorbikes

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  1. Jacek, I found that around 30 sec with my mini iron on limewood strips worked fine after dampening with a paintbrush and water. I then left them to cool to room temperature. Phill
  2. Thukydides, I like your idea on the main wale that is were I judge it to be as well. When I finished the first planking I noted how different the wood strip colours were on that and made a mental note to sort the final planking by colour as well. Anything that is very off can be consigned to wale duty given that it will be painted. Phill
  3. I think the important thing to remember is that the second layer garboard plank sits next to the keel at the stern almost like another plank and then as you move towards the bows it is at a more acute angle which I am hoping can be achieved by chamfering the back corner of the plank. Of course if the final finish will be painted then filler can always be used. I am just trying to get some practice at getting a good result for that day when I cannot rescue the planking with filler. Here is a picture of my test piece of plank at the stern. Phill
  4. Thukydides I think the position of part 76 will depend on how you have curvered the transom before fitting the counter although it is extra long so may not be an issue. Alternatively there is alot of spare material left on the sheet it comes on to cut another of the desired shape. The thickness of the second planking used for the wale is 1mm and part 76 is 1.5 mm so I think the best option is to thin it down after fitting to just blend into wale. The interesting thing is there are no instructions to actually fit the wales they just appear in the drawing regarding the gun port openings. Phill
  5. Thanks jpalmer1970 and RockinBudgie and to everyone else for the likes. Whether to fit the side counter timbers as per the kit instructions or the ATOS drawings has me in a quandary at present, so I have been finding things to do to put off the decision. I have been carefully using a few scalpels to scrape away at the garboard plank to provide a rabbet for the next layer of planking but cannot get a picture that looks like I have achieved anything. I now need to get back to making a decision and jump one way or the other with the counter. Phill
  6. All looking good Thukydides your racing ahead of me. The counter is an area that I have been considering as well . The manual shows that part 76 should be cut to fit along the top edge of the main wale and the later pictures of the completed model show this as well. The drawings of the ship in the rigging section of the manual however show the counter timber abaft the main wale as per the ATOS book. I think I may end up going with what looks most appealing which at present is a curved counter like yourself and BE. Phill
  7. Thanks Thukydides, I have tried to approach it as if it were a single planked model as a practice run for the second planking. I used PVA only for the first planking but will have to try superglue for the second as there will be much less opportunity to clamp planks in place. At the moment life is getting in the way of building so things are progressing slowly. Phill
  8. Thanks Maurice and to all for the likes. To complete the first planking the stern must be reduced to about 2mm to accommodate the sternpost and allow space for the final planking. To achieve this, I cut out 2 packing pieces from the same material as the lower deck and rear transoms (2mm) and glued them onto the inner faces of transom parts 17. These will hold and support the top of the sternpost. I then cut out a false sternpost from the same material and together with some 0.5mm padding pieces at the top and bottom fixed it temporarily in position. This will be used as a marker to sand down the stern planking to the same 2mm width. As the stern post is 3mm and the second planking is 1mm thick this should leave enough for some light sanding of the final planking. I also attached two short lengths of limewood which were offcuts from the first planking to the sides of the keel and held them in place with bulldog clips. These pieces protect the keel during sanding and because of the notch in the rear of the keel held the foot of the false sternpost and actual sternpost in position. This allowed me to sand down the stern section and then slip in the sternpost to better visualise the gap left for final planking. I now just need to add the top 4mm plank to finish off the first planking. Phill
  9. I hope the Physio works out and you get that shoulder back in service soon. 💪 Phill
  10. A truly inspirational build Derek. I will be utilising your tips and techniques in my future bulds and hope to come somewhere close to your standards. Phill
  11. Due to spring finally arriving and the garden requiring many jobs time in the shipyard has been limited, but I have been busy recently fashioning planks and fitting them. Finally, the last pieces in the jigsaw are ready to fit into place. The first planking is now completed except for the top 4mm strake which I will fit once most of the scraping and sanding has been done as I am concerned it could get snagged during that process. Phill
  12. Best wishes for the future of Vanguard models Chris, your kits are already the gold standard and your inovative ideas never cease to amaze me. I have Sphinx on my list as James' build looks amazing but now you tempt me with a hint of a (really) big one. I will need bigger house. Phill
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